Musk Sandal Maceration Colour
- Thread starter Asim Aziz
- Start date
Mr.P
oud<3er
When I have dissolved ambergris in sandalwood, I was surprised by how much of the material the sandalwood absorbed. It seemed like more than 80% of the material dissolved and only a small residue left behind. It took a while to dissolve. I had started by grinding the ambergris to a very fine powder - as much like dust as possible.
Joyoud
Oud Fan
I didn’t grind it at all ,I threw big prices inside the bottle (the size of the bottle opening) then I used the router-the bit above and within 45 seconds blended .
The particle you see in the photos above is some (I would say stone ,maybe bones or so) inside the Ambergris itself and will settle in the bottom after 15 minutes after shaking.
It’s been a bout a week since I macerated this and today I can smell the Ambergris very clearly even without pulling the cap ,I am very happy with the results (so far) let’s keep fingers crossed !
The particle you see in the photos above is some (I would say stone ,maybe bones or so) inside the Ambergris itself and will settle in the bottom after 15 minutes after shaking.
It’s been a bout a week since I macerated this and today I can smell the Ambergris very clearly even without pulling the cap ,I am very happy with the results (so far) let’s keep fingers crossed !
Holy smokes! You know I've thought about doing this last month, but did not have the right dermal attachment. Im gonna have to give this a go as soon as I can get the appropriate bit.
I've had great results with aged sandlwood. Id think its because the older it gets, the lesser it becomes in potency thereby giving off a weaker scent so the musk can really shine.
Ulugbek Abdumominov
Central Asian Expert and Trader
In my opinion it's good idea to fasten the process.
Drill method and hot water heating method are 2 ways we know of speeding up the process now .
Joyoud
Oud Fan
Well the router bit (the Attachment)I am using is made for carving and I use them for that but it has a flat edges (sharp yes) but it’s flat ,
I mean no angel in it so does not cause turbulence in side the bottle (cyclone effect) therefore the grains that sits in the bottom stays in the bottom.
It will mix and beautifully but I have to shake the oil first and do it fast before settles in the bottom.
Then after your posts I asked myself:
Why not making proper one ?! I mean proper bleeding knife !
So here we go , a proper blender with two very sharp fins each one has an angle in it that blows the oil toward the bottom of the bottle.
And what a result !
A true cyclone inside a bottle , works wonderfully and nothing left in the bottom at all .
I am very happy with the result and thank you very much brother for the idea .
Amazing, amazing, amazing!
I reckon this would speed up the maceration process exponentially .
Just a few questions so those of us interested can use this idea.
What kind of bit did you use to make this modified attachment?
Did you actually sharpen the blade part?
From one idea comes another. I thank you as well for making this idea a reality
.
Joyoud
Oud Fan
First thank you,Amazing, amazing, amazing!
I reckon this would speed up the maceration process exponentially .
Just a few questions so those of us interested can use this idea.
What kind of bit did you use to make this modified attachment?
Did you actually sharpen the blade part?
From one idea comes another. I thank you as well for making this idea a reality
It’s very simple to make one : find a nice straight shaft (3 millimetre diameter) , I used a shaft from old buffer (cotton buffer) .
DO NOT use soft metal please it’s not safe and do not use drill bits because they made of very hard steel and they will brake once you try to bend them.
As you see in the photo above I made a tiny cut exactly at the middle using a very thin diamond cutting wheel then grind both ends (flattened them) so they became like two flat plates at the end of the shaft .
One you reach this stage bend the two fins to the outside then turn them with noise players (slightly turn to give them an angle) Each one is opposite angle of the other (think of the fan).
Now cut the fins if needed to fit inside the bottle and the last thing to do is sharpen the bottom edge of each (ONLY the bottom)
please have a close look at the photos.
The most important thing is :
THE TWO FINS ARE EXACTLY IDENTICAL ,very important for balance issue,otherwise you are going have bad vibrations and it could be dangerous at high speed.
The other VERY important thing is : be sure that your angle towards the bottom of bottle not the other way (if your router is clockwise)
In my case Dremel tool it’s Clockwise (99% of them clockwise) and why ? Because in this case the fins will blow the oil towards the bottom of the bottle and believe me you don’t want it to blow it upwards , it’s mean your oil will be flying outside , to make it easy faraway from Physics :
Just look at your fan at home and you will get the idea and again look at pictures above.
Finally please note:
If you are not familiar with power tools do not do this PLEASE, I have no problem by making you one (I am very serious),it took me less than 15 minutes.
Second if you are ok to make it yourself please wear safety glasses when you grinding and cutting its a must.
If you need further information please ask.
Joyoud
Oud Fan
The grains looks very fluffy ( I don’t know how to describe it-please have a look at the photos) , they are light Brown and they stick on the bottle above the oil , also the oil never get cleared after the grains settle down unlike the other maceration I have done at the same day with the same oil but deferent type of grains.
Is that a sign of too much moisture in the grains ?
And if yes ; is that going to be an issue with the final result ? And how can I fix that ?
Please advise !!
Thank you very much
Joyoud
Oud Fan
Yes Sir it’s Mongolian and it’s already smells nice but it’s very sticky-sticks on the applicator too (cover the applicator all the way).
Thank you
Joyoud
Oud Fan
Hi everyone,
I’ve been working away from home for a week and I couldn’t shake my Macerated Musk and Ambergris in daily basis,
So I thought maybe there is a way I can set it up to be done with out me !!!
Then I build this :
I present the shaking device (too bad I couldn’t upload the video so you can see it in action -I don’t know why !) ,
It’s turn 10 times in a minute (10 RPM) ,so the grains is going up and down NON stop for any time you want because it’s connected to the power through timer (for me I set the timer to run 3 hours then stop for 3 hours then run for another 3 hours.
Can you imagine of shaking 6 hours a day !
It’s very simple and cost about 15 dollars !
Enjoy.
I’ve been working away from home for a week and I couldn’t shake my Macerated Musk and Ambergris in daily basis,
So I thought maybe there is a way I can set it up to be done with out me !!!
Then I build this :
I present the shaking device (too bad I couldn’t upload the video so you can see it in action -I don’t know why !) ,
It’s turn 10 times in a minute (10 RPM) ,so the grains is going up and down NON stop for any time you want because it’s connected to the power through timer (for me I set the timer to run 3 hours then stop for 3 hours then run for another 3 hours.
Can you imagine of shaking 6 hours a day !
It’s very simple and cost about 15 dollars !
Enjoy.
Thats an awesome work u have done.
Just quick question how did you control thst DC motors RPM. Did you use voltage regulator Or by controlling Current?
