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Mellifluence Attars Review

Discussion in 'Oud Reviews' started by GalileoFigaroMagnifico, Apr 30, 2018.

  1. GalileoFigaroMagnifico

    GalileoFigaroMagnifico Oud vibrations

    Accord 38 (Jasmine Labdanum Oud)
    I bought this hoping it would be a slightly budget-friendlier alternative to Ensar Oud's Borneo Zen, another jasmine-musk-oud that I have helplessly fallen for.
    They couldn't possibly be more different. :confused: Whereas BZ has that piercingly honeysuckle-y jasmine dominating its first hour, JLO is a much deeper, waxier indolic jasmine. (Two, according to the notes: one sambac and one grandiflorum). The civet comes out after 20 minutes and good heavens it's strong ...it mixes with the oud (FeelOud's Old School Thai) and the musk to become truly dirty. Dirty in every meaning of the word. No sandal, unlike Borneo Zen. I love it, although I think this is probably better suited to its stated purpose as an accord in a larger fragrance rather than a standalone scent. If you have any fragrances or attars that are too goody-two-shoes, too one-dimensional, or just need a thwack of skanky animalic mojo, a drop of JLO ought to do the trick nicely. You know those 60's French movies where Alain Delon and Catherine Deneuve are fooling around? I bet their bedroom smelled like this.

    110 Muska Maharajah
    A week after I received this I got a tiny vial of Siberian musk grains from @NinjaRobb . It was my first time trying raw musk, un-combined with anything else. Smelling it made me realize just how amazing Muska Maharajah is. It really is a sensational recreation of deer musk: sharp and pungent for the first hour, ashy and solemn for the second hour, and deeply oudy-powdery for the third. Between the Kashmiri musk, the Siberian musk, the ambergris, the civet, and the castoreum, this is about as potent a menagerie of animal scents as I can imagine. It's profound and sacred, and yet I have no doubt it could be the ultimate love potion if used strategically. The word "timeless" is thrown around a lot but Muska Maharajah really is: it feels centuries old.

    134 Kusunda Musk
    Opens with a brilliant note of what my late Argentine mother called tilo, also known as linden or limeflower. It's not on the official list of notes so I suspect what I'm smelling is the white lotus, perhaps combined with the chamomile. It's sweet, powdery, appleish and light green. To be honest it isn't my favorite sort of scent but it's obviously very well done. An hour passes before the warm muskiness emerges and the fragrance really takes hold. This is my favorite section because the sweetness has softened enough to be a moderating force on the musks and ouds. Kusunda musk bows out after several hours with a farewell wisp of musk. I'd swap a decant of this if someone were interested, because I'm not sure I'd wear this enough to use up 2.5ml worth. It would make a lovely scent for ladies.

    127 Santal de Chocolat
    So good. So. Good. Begins with a boozy fruity opening, like sniffing a bottle of Chambord. Before too long the sensational Mysore sandalwood starts wafting up and it is so beautiful! Not milky but slightly peppery, glazed with a cocoa and tonka bean frosting. My favorite part of the scent is after about an hour when the Siberian deer musk pops through and gives everything a little tang. Sillage is low: this is a very "close" fragrance. Surprisingly, the wear is not great either, considering it has two ouds, benzoin and vetiver among the base notes. I don't consider this a gourmand: it's a sandalwood scent first of all, with some gentle and not-too-sweet notes of cocoa, vanilla and musk. Seasonless, genderless, and perfect for any occasion.

    Abdullah is clearly a talented artisan and also a helpful and generous vendor. His attars can be found on eBay, here. He also sent a few samples which I may review later in the thread.
     
  2. janturk47

    janturk47 Whats this Oud About?

  3. Nikhil S

    Nikhil S Resident Reviewer

    Thankyou for the review. I was looking for one. I am also very interested in Abdus Salaam Attars. Someday....
     
  4. Mellifluence

    Mellifluence Oud Fan


    Thank you so much for your beautifully written reviews, i really enjoyed reading them, i hope the last batch of oils were just as much to your liking too.

    Warmest regards
    Abdullah
     
  5. GalileoFigaroMagnifico

    GalileoFigaroMagnifico Oud vibrations

    It was my pleasure.
    They absolutely were! i have not been on Ouddict or anywhere on the web for a week due to intense real-life drama, but I do plan to write up a review of my recent order soon, I promise. All three were winners and the samples were amazing:Inlove:
     
    Royhalwood, Mellifluence and Sproaty like this.
  6. Ashfaque

    Ashfaque Analogue Oud

    Al Ghaliyah
    A quick and rustic review
    [​IMG]
    I received Al Ghaliyah few weeks ago, a truly special Ramadan/Eid gift from brother Abdullah of @Mellifluence Attars. Looking closer, you'll see some sediments - i.e., ambergris and deer musk grains!

    Al Ghaliyah is Incensy, floral, musky, deep, yet not loud - throughout, sombre and uplifting at the same time.

    It starts off as a floral, airy (that's ambergris ‘talking’!) concoction that is assisted by few rose oils (cf. notelist below). The top and middle notes are all lifted up by civet.

    The deer musk and ouds are never loud, beautifully complemented by musk rose, hina and ambrette – adding a bit more subtle sweetness. The sombre part, I think, comes from the use of saffron, Indian and musk rose, ambergris and frankincense, which sort of creates a dry and incense note in this mukhallat.

    Thanks to tons of ambergris (3 types), the attar stays on skin for a very long time - at least 6-8 hours on my extremely dry skin. The blending is done quite delicately as it is very difficult to completely differentiate between the florals – sign of a great nose.

    It is a stunning creation, brimfull of conflicting odours. Yet, instead of annoyance or discordance, it creates harmony and thus a contemplative and happier wearer. :)

    NOTES
    - Indian rose, Tai’fi rose, musk rose, Ruh motia (j. sambac), ambrette seed abs, jasmine flexile, white lotus abs, Chinese silk vine, saffron abs, Frankincense CO2.
    - Hina attar, Kadamba attar, rose otto attar, 'Royal Anbar' attar (, also used his glorious 'Amber Imperial' attar)
    - Assam wild oud, Mysore sandalwood, floral sandalwood, Indian rosewood, Siberian deer musk, civet absolute, silver ambergris, Ambergris 1997, white ambergris
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jun 13, 2018
  7. Grega

    Grega True Ouddict

    Oh my Al Ghaliyah sounds and looks wonderful!
     
  8. Ashfaque

    Ashfaque Analogue Oud

    Rosa Verdade
    A Rose Festival
    [​IMG]
    It starts off with a beautiful sparkly green and slightly spicy rose note coming from all those different roses, assisted by neroli. The neroli is not strong though. It helps to lift the citrus / sparkly bit in the mukhallat at the top. From the very beginning I also get a distinct rose smell that I tend to get only after the top note disappears. This smell is quite realistic – as if I am smelling roses from the plant in the early morning when the rose release most of its fragrance.

    I then get a creamy rose, which to me, is the best part of this attar. It probably is coming from that very rare 15 years old D. rose otto, since it will have the least amount of top notes and age has matured it into a mellow one. Since it is creamy, I want to call it gourmandy as I feel like tasting it. But I cannot and won’t! By now you probably realise that if I like any attar a lot I feel like tasting it! :p:D

    Then it slowly becomes creamy and is still quite green with a little murmur of a deer musk on the periphery (sweetness) and ambrette. However, there is something different about this musky smell. I can’t figure it out. I suspect it is due to the musk rose (Rosa moschata, or Rosa damascena). As I have never smelt the musk rose oil (otto, abs or CO2) neat, I can not be sure. Perhaps Abdullah @Mellifluence can shed some light on that.

    From start to end (, easily 6-7 hours in my very dry skin), I get beautiful green whiffs from Javanese vetiver and oud followed by an woody vibe [assisted by other oils, of course]. This is one of the few attars, along with Al Khidr, that smells totally different on my skin and clothes. Considering this pattern, I speculate that it is something to do with the green Malaysian oud used in both attars. It lacks the sea-breeze thingy that I get from the other – largely due to ambergris (included in Al Khidr).

    I am going to try this with ambergris maceration I got from Abdullah to see if I can widen this attar’s spectrum. This is an excellent attar for people who like to enjoy green, spicy, super creamy rose at the beginning and want to end the experience with musky rose helped by deer musk, ambrette – effectively almost every type of rose in one go. [18 April, 2018]

    Notes
    Base: Haiti vetiver, benzoin heart, Labdanum 2002, Ketelan oud, green Malaysian oud
    Middle: Connoisseur Australian Sandalwood, iris, muhuhu, boya wood, civet, saffron, rose de mai extract
    Top: Neroli, rose damasc, Bulgarian rose, musk rose, Kashmiri deer musk, ambrette, jasmine sambac ruh (EO)
     
  9. Grega

    Grega True Ouddict

    Yep, creamy rose, that's the s... (if I may be a bit vulgar ;)) Great review. I also did the same with the sample of the ambergris vanilla maceration, adding it to an accord.
     
    Ashfaque likes this.
  10. Ashfaque

    Ashfaque Analogue Oud

    @Grega I'll try get a bottle of Feral Rose next month (assuming it's still available).
     
  11. Mellifluence

    Mellifluence Oud Fan

    Sorry Ashfaque, Feral Rose has sold out, i actually just had one 5 year old bottle i was keeping that had matured beautifully, when i moved from Ireland i sold so many of my older attars and this was one of them.
    I am remaking 23 Tudor Rose though, this was really popular back then in my earlier days, it is almost ready
     
    Grega and Ashfaque like this.
  12. Grega

    Grega True Ouddict

    That one sounds nice! I once got a sample of Tudor Rose and I liked it very much, not too strong but more of a refined scent. Speaking of florals, if Abdullah ever remakes Faridat you should definitely get that one, it has alot of depth and a beautiful balance of florals and amber.
     
  13. GalileoFigaroMagnifico

    GalileoFigaroMagnifico Oud vibrations

    Mellifluence Reviews Part 2

    27 Lissome
    A springy, ladylike floral, sunny and green, with notes of rich rose and violet. Not hugely dissimilar to Rising Phoenix's Al-Molouk Musk. I recently sacrificed three drops in an ultrasonic diffuser and WOW it was like I'd been transported to a hothouse. Wears splendidly on skin and projects nicely. Dry enough that a gentleman could use it, but it really strikes me as more feminine.

    132 Ruthvah

    Better than Muska Maharajah. Yeah, you read that right. As gaga as I went for MM, I find this warmer, subtler, less regal and more *cough* intimate. Those of you who have read or otherwise dabbled in the works of Aleister Crowley might recognise the name as Crowley's alleged personal sex potion of musk, ambergris and civet. I haven't had hordes of attractive strangers throwing themselves at me, but I do feel more calm and confident. Perhaps that's the point? I hope this comes back because I'm wearing it darn near every day.

    120 Sarsaparilla Oud

    An absolute winner for anyone who loves sweet, gourmand wood fragrances like Frapin 1270 or Lubin Idole. Faintly medicinal, fizzy opening (or is that just suggestion?) with a minty twist. The oud arrives soon afterward in all its polished, fruity glory, resting on a bed of vetiver and patchouli. For some reason it makes me think of an old-timey patent medicine, the sort that would have a name like DR ABDULLAH'S MAGNIFICENT MELLIFLUENT CURATIVE ELIXIR, which might be a little odd going down but immediately makes you feel warm inside. The weather in Canberra right now (frigid and rainy most days) lends itself to this scent perfectly.

    Samples:

    Saffron Musk Imperial
    Not for me I'm afraid, and it's a shame, because someone who is more of a saffron fan will be ecstatic for this. To my nose, the saffron megadose gives me a sickly, hospital-like aroma that does not suit me. From the vial it is quite lovely but on skin it turns obnoxious. Some lucky swapper will get this as an extra someday.

    123 Sessile
    A thick elixir with an unusual greenish-brown colour and a super-fresh, intensely woody vetiver. This would be absolutely FBW if I didn't have a few like it already. Epitomizes green: forests, grass, trees, and the hint of lime that introduces the scent. Less lasting than you might think but still decently longwearing. Probably leans more masculine.

    Accord 30 Amber Oud/Accord 176 Amber Imperial

    Meh. They're both sold out so don't even worry. Not that great.
    Lie, these are among the greatest scents I've ever smelled, fighting with Rising Phoenix's Amber Oud Attar for the greatest amber ever, and I'm dissuading people in the hopes that if they ever return, I'll be quick and rich enough to buy them both. "Imperial" is no joke: this is as grand, regal, and majestic an amber as you've smelled in your life, guaranteed. Lasts forever on skin and leaves clothes smelling sumptuous. I will be cherishing my few remaining sample drops, believe me.

    91 Dukkan
    Described as "smoky old books" and as someone who fetishizes the smell of secondhand bookstores, nothing could draw me in quicker. This is another gorgeous amber, a squish spicier than 30 and 176 but very skin-friendly. I don't see this on either of Mellifluence's shop pages so I'm worried it's another sellout. The wear and development is astoundingly good, the spices never become harsh, and it's all carried along by the most heavenly caramelly labdanum/benzoin accord. I love it and would happily buy a full bottle.
     
  14. Mellifluence

    Mellifluence Oud Fan

    Thank you again for your wonderfully written reviews, i find myself chuckling as i am reading. I am so pleased that most were a hit for you and i very much appreciate your honesty.
    FYI i am making a lot more at at the moment, so any thatare sold out or in demand will be made again soon hopefully.
    Ruthvah turns out different every time guaranteed, this is because it is hard getting the same musk and ambergris for each batch, although i do take great care to keep it close to the original.
    Amber Imperial will be made again soon too, i have just ordered some Rum C02 from Hermitage Oils, let's hope it is as good as the previous Rum Succan Absolute!
    Dukhan i can also make too, i have not made much of this in the past, so i will attempt to make a larger batch this time, as i think only 4 bottles have made it out into the hands of others.
    Sarsaparillah Oud has just sold out, but again it is on the list for another batch and the same applies to Lissome.
     
    Sproaty, RoyalFrag, rojas and 3 others like this.
  15. Grega

    Grega True Ouddict

    I agree. Lissome is perfect for the ladies! When they wear it around us we can enjoy it too ;)
    I have a similar blend to Rutvah but with a touch of Iris and a bit more musks added and you are right, better than muska maharaja. For one there is more musk but I also love the feeling of calm it gives. As for Crowley, I tried reading him but I thought that his out of control sex drive was keeping him from being effective in spiritual pursuits, and his elitism seemed like a burden ;)

    I got Sessile for my sister and it's her favorite perfume.

    Dukhan is very nice too. I will wear it today. Love its ancient smelling aroma.
     
  16. Mellifluence

    Mellifluence Oud Fan

    I wanted to write a little about Ruthvah and Ruh Ul Hiyat as they have an interesting and elusive history.

    Ruh Ul Hiyat, from my research, was an ancient Islamic perfume made with various musks, the name meaning breath of life or spirit of life (My Arabic speaking friends may correct me).
    Ruthvah may have been known originally as Solomons elixir, another musk based perfume, the name Ruthvah may be a corruption of the name Ruh Ul Hiyat.
    Ailester Crowley, also known as the wickedest man in the world, an overt Satanist who clearly practiced witchcraft in the most obscene ways took that ancient elixir and deemed it part of his practices.
    My views on these ancient perfumes are that they are ancient perfumes and i separate myself from such evil people as Ailester Crowley and would pay no homage to such a man.

    Ruh Ul Hiyat Attar is a light, aged musk blended with the highest quality ingredients, this took years to make and the next batch may well be in another 2 years.
    Ruthvah was a requested attar which i made more animalic and brooding based on the ancient formulas.

    Both are currently sold out, but will be made again in sha Allah :Thumbsup:
     
  17. Sproaty

    Sproaty Sproudy Staff Member

    :D:D:Roflmao::Roflmao::Roflmao:
     
  18. Grega

    Grega True Ouddict

    Oh my somehow I managed to miss the colored part and only read that amber imperial is nothing special (thinking:what???). Lol!

    I put amber imperial on in the evening and it is still strong. Far from a skin scent. Wow!
     
  19. 142 Iasme


    jasmine cream in a angelic feather bed of sweet musky heaven….

    comes on out of the bottle like sweet smooth jasmine with sprinkles of bright spicy sunshine, pink bubble gum and vanilla ginger tapioca, theres a wet kiss of fine ambergris, and a subtle magnetic aura of oud pushing the embrace of the florals up front until the dry down….


    the dry down is a magnificent ethereal ascent of the jasmine into the pure lands leaving the most sultry creamy sweet musky aromatic nest that melts into the skin and weaves its spell for hours…

    the performance and sillage were great for a natural attar…

    im gonna say this one is unisex…

    very impressed with my first mellifluence oil…

    he has the gift…

    loving the samples too…..

    im going to grab another bottle before they are gone…

    truly amazing!
     
  20. Grega

    Grega True Ouddict

    I was waiting for a review from you. :) You have a way with words! It is fun to read.
    Had to put some Iasme on after reading this. I prefer "darker" florals but I can't deny that this one is wonderful even if it lies outside my comfort zone of taste. Bright, with a glimmering texture supporting the jasmine.

    Which bottles are you thinking to grab?
     
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2018

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