Rai Munir
Musk Man
New Year and dear and respected Santal Claus! What a splendid start of the New Year.
Thanks and thanks, I would go for the absolute.
Sandalwood Oil
- Thread starter Oudamberlove
- Start date
Thanks and thanks, I would go for the absolute.
Santal Claus
True Ouddict
Have a safe and wonderful New Year yourself! I'm debating ordering some of the absolute. If you do, please let us know what you think of it when you've had time to study it. Your opinion will always be enlightening.
From one Indian seller (IndianPerfumers) I ordered a bottle of orange sandalwood (he have usuall yellow and more dark variant marked as Mysore), which is 2 times more expensive than rksons sandalwood (about 4000$/L) (it look exactly like dark colore sandalwood from RisingPhoenix). Is anyone tried sandalwood from this company?
Hello, may I ask some help for better understand the "90-92% santalol" issue? Should we forget forever about this 90%? I read some scientific articles and found that both vintage and modern sandalwood oils do not contain 90% santalols at all. Just never. Because 90% santalols related to the total free alcohols content in oil and it is not (alfa-santalol + beta-santalol). Moreover 90% santalols is an ancient standard (oil evaluated using ancient acetylation method which not specific for santalols and may give large errors that increase total santalols to 90%). Modern standard ISO (2002) states that sandalwood oil should contain 41-55% alfa-santalol and 16-24% beta-santalol (GC method for evaluation). According to one research by Verghese, 1990 year when evaluating commercial sandalwood oil in 24 samples from 1990 year with GC method they revealed that all samples contain total alfa + beta santalols 61% - 71%. For example very famous Fritzsche sandalwood oil contain 60% santalols (alfa+beta, GC method). In the new research by Howes, 2004 year, it was determined that in 31 samples of commercial sadalwood oil, approximately 50-70% alfa+beta santalols (GC method). Authors of research conclude that only GC method show real picture and quality of sandalwood oil. And the ancient "90% minimum total alcohols as santalol" should go away in the past.
In conclusion I want to say, that even good sandalwood oils from 1990 never had any 90% santalols in fact.
I am a researcher, a biologist, so I wrote this post to ask the opinion of more experienced people. Most people probably think that sandalwood oil should contain 90% santalols, but this is apparently not entirely true. People are just used to this figure of 90% and consider it a sign of quality. Indeed, earlier, to determine the content of santalols, the old acetylation method was used, which was not specific and did not show a real picture. The modern gas chromatography method more accurately determines the content of santalols, and even in best oils santalols usually do not exceed 70% (and if in the same oils santalols were determined by the old method, they would be more than 90%, I believe). If I'm wrong please correct me, I'm just trying to find the truth.
In conclusion I want to say, that even good sandalwood oils from 1990 never had any 90% santalols in fact.
I am a researcher, a biologist, so I wrote this post to ask the opinion of more experienced people. Most people probably think that sandalwood oil should contain 90% santalols, but this is apparently not entirely true. People are just used to this figure of 90% and consider it a sign of quality. Indeed, earlier, to determine the content of santalols, the old acetylation method was used, which was not specific and did not show a real picture. The modern gas chromatography method more accurately determines the content of santalols, and even in best oils santalols usually do not exceed 70% (and if in the same oils santalols were determined by the old method, they would be more than 90%, I believe). If I'm wrong please correct me, I'm just trying to find the truth.
RisingPhoenix
Resident Artisan
There’s a simple answer to this question - a question that often has some confusion around it.
The 90% number comes from Total Santalols, of which Alpha and Beta are the primary two components. There are usually a dozen or so other Santalols that get counted in the Total content.
“A Grade” Indian Sandalwood oils will usually have a minimum 70% Alpha and Beta Santalol content - often a little higher. The remainder of the content is from minor Santalol molecules - hence the “Total Santalol Content” %age.
Australian Spicatum on the other hand usually tops off around 30% Alpha and Beta on the top end in premium batches. More standard stuff is more commonly around 15%.
New Caledonian usually tops off Total around 60-70% - and Hawaiin Paniculatum the total is usually around 70-80%.
It’s the Indian that’ll hit 90-93% at the top end - with younger woods not peak performing and hitting sub-par 90% levels. Hence why folks love those oils produced from older trees with higher Total - but also higher Minor Santalol contents.
The Alpha and Beta Santalols give Sandalwood its creamy / butteriness variations - and it is these Santalols that are found in drastically large variations between species and origins - but it is the minor Santalols that often gauge the overall character and quality of a particular distillation.
In Summary - don’t forget to add in the minor Santalols to the the Total Santalol content - not just the Alpha and Beta 😋
Thank you very much for explanation. Now i better understand situation with "90% santalol". So when we use GC method we for total santalol we calculete not only alfa+beta but other forms too. Do we calculate bergamatol, lanceol and nuciferol too?
Thank you for information. I'm not saying that oil with 90% santalol is a fake. I just provided links to 2 published scientific studies that examined many samples of commercial oils and did not find 90% alpha + beta there. But at the same time, I saw another study where santalum spicatum oil had very high alfa+beta santalol content (around 60-70%), which, in theory, should not be for Australian sandalwood (Brand et al 2015). Situations are different. I just shared what I read in scientific articles and asked for advice from more experienced people. Because I am not experienced in this area and trying to gain more knowledge.
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I don't think it's possible to buy alpha and beta santalol isolate. I do not need it anyway. I need pure santalum album oil, which I have ordered from several suppliers to try. Maybe my biochemist friend can do a gas chromatography so we can check the quality. But two dealers and manufacturers gave me a gas chromatography reports and I trust them. Indonesian sandal contains 67% santalols (alpha 45,5% + beta 21,5). Is this a good indicator? As i understud it is not as good as "grade A" Indian Sandalwood 70%, but not bad.
Mr.P
oud<3er
“I don't think it's possible to buy alpha and beta santalol isolate”
Well, it is! $10/g
perfumersupplyhouse.com
“ I do not need it anyway. “
Same here - I’ve never tried any but some day I might just for the educational value.
I expect that pure santalol would be less interesting than natural sandalwood oil.
In terms of the general idea that many sandalwood oils will be well below the 90% threshold I think you are spot on there and I’ll bet you many of them are amazing and shouldn’t be avoided just because they don’t have 90% plus santalol
Well, it is! $10/g
Search Results for “Santalol” – Perfumer Supply House
perfumersupplyhouse.com
“ I do not need it anyway. “
Same here - I’ve never tried any but some day I might just for the educational value.
I expect that pure santalol would be less interesting than natural sandalwood oil.
In terms of the general idea that many sandalwood oils will be well below the 90% threshold I think you are spot on there and I’ll bet you many of them are amazing and shouldn’t be avoided just because they don’t have 90% plus santalol
Wow, thank you for information, am surprised that isolates really exist. Before I thought that only synthetic compound exist on market (ebanol, javanol e.c.). Yes it is intresting to try isolates of santalols to understood aroma and compare with sandalwood oil that contain many minor constituents which also relate to aromatics of this oil“I don't think it's possible to buy alpha and beta santalol isolate”
Well, it is! $10/g
Search Results for “Santalol” – Perfumer Supply House
“ I do not need it anyway. “
Same here - I’ve never tried any but some day I might just for the educational value.
I expect that pure santalol would be less interesting than natural sandalwood oil.
In terms of the general idea that many sandalwood oils will be well below the 90% threshold I think you are spot on there and I’ll bet you many of them are amazing and shouldn’t be avoided just because they don’t have 90% plus santalol
I am absolutly agree with you, that highest % of santalols do not always relate to the aroma quality of oil and many oils with less santalols may poses better even better aroma. I have read similar opinion in one of those scientific articles.
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William Birch
True Ouddict
I just received some Mysore sandalwood oil from Al Shareef and it is amazing.
It’s very very deep, incredibly smooth with an almost slightly peppery spice to it. Lasts hours on skin from only a single swipe.
My only previous experience with “Mysore” sandalwood is the one available from Perfumers Apprentice(made by F. P. Aromatics) and Al Shareef’s blows that one out of the water in terms of complexity.
I’m also very happy to be supporting a Perth based business as I’m also from Perth!
It’s very very deep, incredibly smooth with an almost slightly peppery spice to it. Lasts hours on skin from only a single swipe.
My only previous experience with “Mysore” sandalwood is the one available from Perfumers Apprentice(made by F. P. Aromatics) and Al Shareef’s blows that one out of the water in terms of complexity.
I’m also very happy to be supporting a Perth based business as I’m also from Perth!
oud.time
Sandalwouddict
Are you referring to the Mysore 2020 oil? If so that is definitely a special oil. It was one of the first sandalwood oils I ever tried and it immediately had me hooked. I had never worn any fragrances before but when I smelled it I thought to myself “this seems like what cologne should be”.
William Birch
True Ouddict
It’s this product they’re currently selling on their site.
Mysore Sandalwood Oil - Al Shareef Oudh
Mysore sandalwood oil, also known as Government Soap Factory sandalwood oil but online at Al Shareef Oudh.
www.alshareefoudh.com
oud.time
Sandalwouddict
Yeah that’s the one! Enjoy itIt’s this product they’re currently selling on their site.
Mysore Sandalwood Oil - Al Shareef Oudh
Mysore sandalwood oil, also known as Government Soap Factory sandalwood oil but online at Al Shareef Oudh.
William Birch
True Ouddict
Ohh I most certainly am it’s lovely!
William Birch
True Ouddict
I got some Indian Sandalwood from a seller on Etsy called SultanFragrances.
It’s quite nice a bit different from other Sandalwoods I’ve tried. It’s a little bit dryer but still sweet and creamy with a salted butter like note.
Very nice stuff. The vendor also offers a “Mysore Sandalwood” which I would be interested to try if given the opportunity.
It’s quite nice a bit different from other Sandalwoods I’ve tried. It’s a little bit dryer but still sweet and creamy with a salted butter like note.
Very nice stuff. The vendor also offers a “Mysore Sandalwood” which I would be interested to try if given the opportunity.
William Birch
True Ouddict
Ohh also I have ordered some Mysore 60 Year Sandalwood from Aroma Sublime’s Etsy outlet and I’m incredibly incredibly excited to get my hands on it.
Does anyone have experience with Aroma Sublime’s sandalwoods? How did you find them?
Does anyone have experience with Aroma Sublime’s sandalwoods? How did you find them?
DubOudh
Aster Oudh
Yes. Very much a beautiful oil. I have used in macerations and have not been disappointed.
In fact I was thinking recently of getting a quarter tola as I have none not macerating at the moment.
Great to deal with....should be excellent quality.