Thoughts On My Process

Discussion in 'Tyson Mortensen' started by tyson, Jul 21, 2018.

  1. tyson

    tyson Oud Alchemist

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    I just thought id post some random thoughts here on my processes as i think others might find it interesting .

    Ive been concentrating on reverse engineering the scent if you will . For me is all about the base note the extended dry down what comes last the very base of the construction of the symphony of scents. Hours ill just sit there listning to music and smelling my wrist and letting it talk to me letting myself be empty and feel what its doing . Right now i have some tahiti vanilla caviar infused into White Ambergris , not pure white mind you but one that has retained the ocean and all its virtues even the fecal ones , the vanilla quite tamed that part though and now its this exquisite ocean salty cooling powdery sweet melange , i applied the pure ambergris honey resin strait to the back of my right hand . Its such a powdery scent , almost a bit like talcum poweder in its dryness , so as a test i added the same to my right hand on the back in the same stop but rubbed in some of the inkanyezi and smelled it over the hours and compared i thought i may see were that would lead but the nature of the sandal was so viscous and long lasting that it destroyed the powderyness of the origional smell so i though hmm lets keep the powdery base and follow along those lines while working the drydown base notes . I had visions of just the slightest powdery irris notes so im going to next try a bit of that in the mix but first im going to go right back to the base and reform it slightly with an infusion of dusted philipino sinking agarwood , so ill add alcohol to the ambergris/vanilla "honey resin" and then soak agarwood dust into that for a few weeks , then ill reduce that to its honey state , agarwood resin wont be soluble in essential oils but im thinking the ambergris resin will take on alot of the agarwood essence and that later if i do a 50/50 mix with essentail oils that some of the agar resin will have to be filtered out but ill still get the agar essence into the mix if i can do it with vanilla then i think i can with agarresin as well but well see . so what im after is a powdery base of ambergris infused with vanilla and agarwood . Some orris root will be the next test to see how i like it in the mix. Each step is always tested to see the results but then if its no good i can come back to the base mix im so fond of and keep doing a side by side test to see what next building block fits the creation im building . I find that being open to not knowing is the very thing that excites me . To feel your way around and be delighted with new finds new ways of doing things new dreams new life ! Each oil refects back to me its spirit its alive and i like to thing that we work together always as one . Most of the time i think that simplicity is the best creation . Complexity resides within one note if you look into its depth . Perhaps im rambing perhaps your enjoying my thoughts haha
    more to come
     
  2. tyson

    tyson Oud Alchemist

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    Today im working on a new perfume , with an interesting composition and new way of looking at creating a composition.
    Starting with Vanilla infused ambegris honey i added the following , sinking agarwood philipino dust , Ceylon cinnamon dust , 1 drops of apple mint , aged hawaiian vetiver , Aged agarwood oil , Inkanyezi sandalwood oil .
    The interesting part is how im processing that mix thats quite unusual . Ive reduced the alcohol mix down to a resin and put it in the over on 110c were ill keep it for 24 hours . This removes much of the ligher fractions and most of the essential oils but leaves there mark. Like baking all the scents combine to make something new . Later ill add alcohol again and then add frangipani and let it sit for a while and blend .
     
  3. tyson

    tyson Oud Alchemist

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    Vanilla infused ambegris honey , sinking agarwood philipino dust , Ceylon cinnamon dust , 1 drops of apple mint , aged hawaiian vetiver , Aged agarwood oil , Inkanyezi sandalwood oil .

    After 24 hours in the oven i can say its been a success all the light oils have dissipated and whats left has become bonded and coalesced into a cohesive base from which ill use as an ingredient in a natural perfume . 200 proof ethyl food grade non denatured alcohol will be added and then some orris butter , perhaps some osmanthus/narcissus/orange blossom/jasmine . Not sure yet which flowers or flower ill pick leaning toward osmanthus/narcissus blend

    Another project started is alcohol extracing resin from a few hundred grams of sinking grade cambodian agarwood. I plan on taking that resinoid and distilling with some sandalwood oil , this should shorten the time needed to extract the oils from the agarwood as there is no wood for the oils to have to get though , it will be a long process in bringing up the temp very slowly though as i want the resinoid to open to the waters in a very gentle way this should help more i n mimicking the actual smell of the agarwood . Later frangipani will be added to the agar / sandal oil . Agar/Sandal/frangi = Bliss
     
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  4. tyson

    tyson Oud Alchemist

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    :) IMG_0681.JPG
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2018
  5. KHH

    KHH Whats this Oud About?

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    Its a pleasure to hear of your process. Much to learn :clapping::clapping:
     
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  6. tyson

    tyson Oud Alchemist

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    Some silver ambergris , oceanic , baby breath , salty, powdered milk , animalistic, mild fecal .
    Will extract its resin and use that resin in a few attars of Hojary/vanilla/ambergris and Aluhlaza Marakata / Ambergris
    Lab tested at 90% Ambrein
    IMG_0495.jpg
     
  7. tyson

    tyson Oud Alchemist

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    This is whats left after the resin is extracted . I ending up with 9 percent unsoluble particulate that you can see in the small bag.

    I did a test of the ambergris resin with Aluhlaza Marakata .


    Ill put up a few bottles maybe 2-3 on etsy

    This is as good as it gets for sandalwood and ambergris WIN_20181019_11_11_56_Pro.jpg WIN_20181019_11_12_10_Pro.jpg
     
  8. tyson

    tyson Oud Alchemist

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    Crystalized ambergris resinoid from white ambergris .
    Here its spirit takes form #alcehmy
    Using neucleation I can seed crystal different formations in the ambergris …. does this give off different scents is my question !?

    sweet , oceanic, baby breath , vanilla, honey, anamalic notes from this flask / ive noted at least 3 distinct formations growing ... WIN_20190702_10_49_47_Pro.jpg WIN_20190702_10_52_37_Pro.jpg
     
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  9. Mr.P

    Mr.P True Ouddict

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    Have you tried extracting with cold alcohol vs. hot alcohol? The white crystalline material is much more soluble in hot alcohol I read and accounts for the solid nature of the resinoid / resin absolute / tincture concentrate (not sure what to call it, traditionally a concentrated alcohol extract like this is a “resin absolute” according to Arctander.

    With cold alcohol you might end up with something with lower yield but more purified ambergris scent if that is your goal. It would be interesting to compare two resin absolutes like you are making - made from the same source material, one extracted hot and the other cold. On the other hand it might be a waste of precious raw material.
     
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2019
  10. tyson

    tyson Oud Alchemist

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    Ambrein is the chief constituent of ambergris, 91 percent was the content in the ambergris use as shown in photo.
    Ive played with temp on that 1000 year old piece I had and it was very easy to crash out the ambrein when cooling the alcohol and resinoid mix. This chunk was 99 percent ambrein and smelled beyond amazing , so I don't know about wanting to get rid of the ambrein , but it would make the other ambergris scents vastly increased . Ill have to play with this and see how much ambrein I can remove and see what the scent profile is like then , maybe ill make a crazy potent ambergris smell . Guess it all depends on what your wanting from the gris, I don't think the pheromones are the ambrein so one could definetly separate the ambrein with a defat step . Ill give it a go next time and see how I like it you may be on to something , the cost of the absolute would be great
     
  11. tyson

    tyson Oud Alchemist

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    So I would not start with a cold extraction id start with a hot extraction and then crash out the ambrein with cold temps , the trick would be selecting the perfect temp ...
     
  12. Mr.P

    Mr.P True Ouddict

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    That makes sense. I wonder if there’s a difference between cold all the way through vs. hot first then chill to precipitate out the ambrein (which you could collect after separation and use in its own right)?

    I wonder if you’d end up with a fluid oil without the ambrein? But if the ambrein is 90%+ of the ambergris, that will be a very small yield! 10 grams of ambergris to get maybe 1 g of concentrate.


    Random note:
    According to Arctander a “20 fold tincture” of ambergris was a common preparation. This would be a tincture of ambergris evaporated down to 1/20 volume.
     
  13. tyson

    tyson Oud Alchemist

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    pretty much the other 9 percent besides ambrein is non soluble particles ive heated this as a test and its quite awful , some sand some who knows . Im guessing that the main pheremones and other amebrgris constitutes are in a percentage much lower than .5 of a percent , i really dont think you would end up with a fluid oil , more a concrete of sorts . Ill see what i can extract
     
  14. Mr.P

    Mr.P True Ouddict

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    I have very rich smelling cold ethanol tinctures that leave a good residue on the skin. My guess is you’d get something acceptable. I wonder though if all of the ambrein is critical for the fixative function
     
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  15. tyson

    tyson Oud Alchemist

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    Just finished distilling this frankincense and im really impressed its so floral and full of fruit notes , what a wonderful natural perfume , im going to pair it with Tahiti Gardenia Tiare Absolute and then soak Tahiti Vanilla cavair in the oil .... I may not sell this and just wear it . This Tigray is very low yeilder of oil maybe 1 or 2 percent max , looks more like 1. So 4 kilos of resin will produce only 40 grams to 80 grams ...

    Ancient "Tigray" Frankincense: An African Favorite through the ages.

    Posted by Brian Camgemi on May 22, 2019
    Boswellia papyrifera, locally known as "Tigray" in Africa, is a truly ancient and special frankincense.

    Tigray was one of the most popular frankincense species in the ancient world. From the Egyptians to the Romans, Tigray was accessible and widely used. In fact, it is known as the "church" frankincense. It has a scent exclusive to its species and its lingering aroma is recognized as that typical "church scent." When it is burnt fresh, the scent reminds me of spring and new life. It has a light airy aroma that has many floral notes and gives the feeling of cleanliness and purity.

    Throughout history, culture after culture has used it. The Babylonians and Assyrians burned it during religious ceremonies while the ancient Egyptians transported entire boatloads of the resins from the Phoenicians and used it as incense, insect repellent, perfume and salves for wounds and sores. It was also the key ingredient in the embalming process. Certain sections of internal organs were removed and filled with frankincense resin by the Egyptians as a sacred rite and to control the unpleasant scent of the passed on vessel. Egyptian woman used the ashes and charcoal from burned frankincense as the famous eyeliner that Egyptian woman were known for. Large amounts were burned with mummies to assist in the afterlife, as well. Queen Hatshepsut, who once ruled Egypt until her death c.480 B.C. had sacks of frankincense and myrrh trees integrated into the murals decorating the walls of a temple dedicated to her.

    Tigray, as well as other species of frankincense and myrrh, were also burned as a biting insect deterrent. This actually controlled the spread of malaria in certain sections of Africa in ancient times. I, myself, use it in the spring and summer to deter pesky mosquitoes that seem to be carrying more and more disease, even here in New England.

    I have received a fresh order of high-grade Boswellia papyrifera from Ethiopia recently and if you have not tried it yet, I highly recommend it. It has a wonderful complex aroma and is very affordable. Use it outdoors to deter insects and induce relaxation or indoors to cleanse the air and introduce a fresh spring scent into your home.

    Enjoy!

    Brian Camgemi
     
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  16. powdernose

    powdernose Oud Sprite

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    Sounds like an interesting pairing,
    You do like your vanilla :D

    Yes, papyrifera is definitely church incense, at least that's what orthodox churches use around here.
    Thanks for the article, I'd not considered it as a mosquito repellent, I'll give that a try :handok:
     
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  17. tyson

    tyson Oud Alchemist

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    Yes love my vanilla , and how it meshes with the oils , its like my musk hah
     

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  18. Mr.P

    Mr.P True Ouddict

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    That’s beautiful. Vanilla caviar macerating like mask! I am inspired once again. I prepared a strong tincture of benzoin. I was in many ways reminded of ambergris as I prepared the tincture. I enjoyed the process, simple though it was. I may try combining this with vanilla. The benzoin has too much of a “skin” note I’m not crazy about. The vanilla will round it off.
     
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  19. tyson

    tyson Oud Alchemist

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    That sounds amazing , vanilla really works wonders to round off scents !
     
  20. Mr.P

    Mr.P True Ouddict

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    I see benzoin used for “pre fixation” much like
    Ambergris. The perfume texts I’ve been reading describe using ambergris and benzoin to prepare batches of perfumer’s alcohol. Small amounts of these act to decrease the harsh impact of alcohol and (of course) leave behind a thin film with a generally pleasant scent after everything else has evaporated. I feel like the bottle of benzoin tincture has a somewhat reduced alcohol-blast. Maybe the dissolved resin interferes with evaporation a bit.

    If I couldn’t get ambergris, I would substitute benzoin with a dab of cistus and maybe clary sage absolute (white waxy solid!). And I just realized, this would be a typical “amber perfume” accord, especially if you added a little vanilla!

    Hold up... I’m going to make a batch of this right now.
     

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