Vetiver

Discussion in 'The Natural Perfumer's Palette' started by Habz786, Aug 24, 2017.

  1. Habz786

    Habz786 Resident Artisan & Forum Co-Founder

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    Ruh Khus by Agarwood Assam if anyone has Borneo 2000 please compare the two, this basically has the top notes of Borneo 2000. Amazing how Oud can smell like other essential oils! I asked Zak right away does this have Borneo Oud in it? Nope its pure vetiver oil, very cooling oil on a hot day this would be so good crisp and clean and nuclear :handok:
     
  2. Nikhil S

    Nikhil S Resident Reviewer

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    I highly suggest you to try top grade ruh khus by www.mlramnarain.com too brother. You will be amazed to sniff the complexities. You ll find the drydown of it in many sweet ouds ;-)
     
  3. Rai Munir

    Rai Munir Musk Man

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    What about Ajmal's Rooh Khus:)? I wish I could get Khus and certain other Oud Oils from respected Zak.
    Khus has the vibrancy that is dominant in Chinese and Sri Lankan Wood/Oils. It is just my experience. During Summer, Khus is the best fragrance. Therefore, in the Subcontinent, Khus has a prominent place.

    Thanks dear Nikhl, for the link.
     
  4. Nikhil S

    Nikhil S Resident Reviewer

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    I havent tried his khus sir. I am sure it must be good. Its just that I love Khus. And I prefer to buy directly from distillers. These are the same guys featured on fragrantica for shamama recently. Mr Pranjal is a good friend and supplies to quite a lot perfume manufacturers since a long time. Khus and Rose are their speciality. They were the first to introduce cypriol oil to the world. 3rd gen. If it were Shamama I would say Md Yaqub & sons.
     
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  5. peter4ptv

    peter4ptv Member

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    is Indian Rooh Khus basically a vetiver oil similar to the distillation of Vetiveria zizanioides from Haiti?
    or something totally different.
    thank you.
     
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  6. Nikhil S

    Nikhil S Resident Reviewer

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    Thats a nice question brother. And I am sure my discussion here will help all lovers of Khus. The basic diff between Northern Ruh Khus and Southern Vetiver oil is source, chemical makeup and method of distillation. Khus is word for vetiver. South depends mostly on cultivated vetiver because demand is high, yield is more and price is low. They use steam distill and vetiverol produced is around 40 to 60pc.

    However, Northern distillers mainly Kannuaj and around use hydrodistillation. Material is mostly wild. Yield is low. Conc is 60 to 80pc. Cost is very high 1000USD/kg. These also can be brown to green in colour due to lead lining of copper pots as opposed to brownish oil of South.

    So South vetiver oil is around 25K INR/Kg and North is around 60K INR/Kg.

    Smellwise, Ruh > Haitian > South Vetiver.

    The Ruh Khus is what is truly exceptional in smell. Hope that helps bro.
     
  7. hedycent

    hedycent True Ouddict

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    Lead lined copper pots ? Where does that leave the safety for skin application of ruh khus? Blended or not
     
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  8. Nikhil S

    Nikhil S Resident Reviewer

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    Thats what I learned from discussions with distillers. I AM SORRY. Not qualified to answer that buddy. I am sure IFRA can shed some light on that. I dont know of other scientific bodies.
     
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  9. hedycent

    hedycent True Ouddict

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    Thanks for your information, not panicking, I love ruh khus
     
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  10. Nikhil S

    Nikhil S Resident Reviewer

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    You have a very valid question my friend. I ll take that question to my friends. I am sure they ll have an answer. Or maybe I be quoted them wrong. Either way helpful to both of us.
     
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  11. Habz786

    Habz786 Resident Artisan & Forum Co-Founder

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    Thank you @Nikhil S for the link, how would you compare their attars to those of john steele?
     
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  12. Bengal Roots

    Bengal Roots Resident Artisan

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    Very Valid Question. Most Distillers on commercial scale to meet deadlines on monthly basis and absorb growing inflation are using industrial scale Steel boilers (edible grade) which are designed as per perfume industry standards as they have major clientele in EU & GCC. Very few still do original copper deg of smaller capacity these are edible grade as well which most use similar pots for authentic Indian cuisine. Traditional way. Solder joints can be area of concern. But here Bamboo chongas is used which is non-reactive and considered to have no harmful effects on food or fragrance. Dont worry @hedycent we do verify and my research well before offering my products. You very well know about my other products like soap bars.

    Distillation Techniques of Kannauj-Production of Ruh Khus (pure hydrodistilled oil of wild Vetiver)

    The very same equipment was being used to produce what is called a "ruh". The only difference in the procedure was that the receiving vessel held no sandalwood oil. The bamboo pipe connecting the "deg" to the "bhapka" was also longer. It is in this way that pure khus oil was being made. Before placing the roots in the "deg", they were first chopped in a hand operated machine. They were then pre-soaked for 10-12 hours before placing in the "deg". The long, slow process was then initiated by which the oil sacks in the roots would get opened by low pressure and low heat generated within the still. The traditional "deg" cannot operate under high heat and high pressure as can the more modern steam distillation units. The seal between the main body of the "deg" and the lid is made with a clay snake which completely surrounds the lip. The lid is then forced down upon this clay snake by slipping a simple hooked piece of mettle under the rim of the main body of the still and over the lid and then driving a wooden wedge in the open space over the lid to force in down. The bamboo pipe which comes out of the lid is held in place only by strong twine. The place where it enters the lid and the seal is made is with cotton and clay. Although it is a little difficult to visualize one can readily understand that high pressure distillation would not work in this case. Some people feel that this low pressure distillation is also able to preserve more of the delicate aromatic molecules which can get destroyed with higher pressure and heat. A typical distillation of this sort goes on for 12-24 hours or until all the essence is extracted from the vetiver roots. When the process is completed the liquid in the receiver is saturated with the fragrance of khus and after proper cooling the oil separates from the water at which time it is collected by moving special brushes over the surface of the water to absorb the oil. The oil is then squeezed out into bottles which house the precious "ruh".


    Source:
    This is great information for all:
    http://www.vetiver.org/UP_Vetiver.htm
     
  13. Nikhil S

    Nikhil S Resident Reviewer

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    Hey bro. I have used their attars too which Pranjal s father kindly blended for me. Oud Musk etc. However they are mostly bulk exporters. They serve clientele in the Gulf and Europe. As of John Steele I have no idea sir. Is he an artisan ?
     
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  14. hedycent

    hedycent True Ouddict

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    Thanks for that , I did not mean to cast any doubt on your oils, I know you have the highest standards. I was thinking it could have been a practice by some less than careful manufacturers, not you my friend
     
  15. Bengal Roots

    Bengal Roots Resident Artisan

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    No no my friend. You got me wrong. You are one of very old customer till date buying on good faith.. Never questioned me. Hence, my duty to explain. Infact, I apologize I gave answer out of turn. It was not put across to me. But incidently just the other day I was explaining Ruh Khus to one of our members here in conversation & also to a local customer. Later, today I see it here. Hence, shared the information. It's all good.

    Here is the conversation for reference :

    image.jpeg
     
  16. AbasFrag

    AbasFrag Oud Burner

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    This thread can be used for questions/ views about Vetiver (Khuss) :)
     
  17. ParadiseofOils

    ParadiseofOils Resident Artisan

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    I bought a bottle of Vetiver from Ajmal a year or so ago while i was in Dubai. Smells great. Still have it lying around....somewhere...
     
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  18. Habz786

    Habz786 Resident Artisan & Forum Co-Founder

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    If you find it can you do a review or share some notes?
     
  19. ParadiseofOils

    ParadiseofOils Resident Artisan

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    Will do :)
     
  20. hasans1

    hasans1 Oud Fan

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    Pardon my ignorance. but is the same as the very thick, green, grass smelling oil that I received as a gift? one tiny drop overwhelms for days.

    The gentleman who gifted it told me name was Khus but perhaps he was misinformed
     
    Last edited: Aug 29, 2017

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