Sir, I want your guidance regarding one thing: Coal or electric heater, which one is to be preferred? Putting aside subjective preference.
Thanks
I'm no guide. Here's some of what the Agar Aura proprietor said:
Gen3 wood heating consists of “pumps” and “cruises”. And it requires
veryhigh grade agarwood. Ideally, you’ll use an electric censer with a voltage adjustor, but if you don’t have that then you can still have the Gen3 experience on charcoal.
The idea is to expose the wood chip to a few different levels of heat systematically. Coupled with a voltage adjustor, an electric censer (like
this one) is of course the most convenient option. With plain ol’ charcoal, you will need to build two mini mounds of ash on top of the lit charcoal, one mound bigger than the other. You’ll then have to juggle the wood chip between the two mounds and even (briefly) place the chip directly on the charcoal.
Yes, the core concept of Gen3 heating
IS low-temperature emission of the oleoresin vapors. But the idea is to enjoy the experience of “the first whiffs” over and over.. and over again.
To do this, the chip is allowed to exude however much fragrant vapor that it can, at the lowest possible heat (we want to release the fragrance, not burn it!), but it will need gentle nudges to keep this going. i.e. bursts of higher heat or “pumps“, followed by a drastically lower heat setting or “cruises“.
Typically, the resin in western (Indian and Indo-Chinese) species of agarwood is the softest and so the temperature fluctuations are less dramatic, whereas far-east (e.g. Papuan and Filipino) species have much harder resin, that will require significantly higher-temperature pumps.
A typical Gen3 style Cambodian agarwood session can look something like this:
1) Select a 2mm x 2mm x 5mm sliver of agarwood (too thin or too thick, it won’t be optimal)
2) Pump: set the voltage to MAX until the moment you start to smell the vapors just starting to rise
3) Cruise: instantly drop the voltage to a lower setting where the vapor still rises in earnest
4) Cruise 2: drop the voltage further down to ensure acrid notes don’t emerge (some of the oil, that was acting as a heat buffer, has already vaporized so some of the wood fibres can now start to combust = acrid smell)
5) Pump 2: briefly crank up the heat again to liquify oleoresin in deeper pockets inside the wood
6) Cruise 3: drop the voltage down even lower than steps #3 and #4
7) Pump 3: once you start to sense that some acrid notes might emerge, remove the chip and let it cool down for about 5 seconds. Flip the chip and place it back on the censer and verybriefly crank up the heat one last time
8) Cruise 4: lowest temperature setting cruise.
So what’s actually going on here?
By liquifying/liberating trapped pockets of oleoresin via pumps and then releasing them via cruises, what you’re doing is constantly re-living the “first wisps” experience over and over again.
Best of all, you get to experience that with not only the lightest compounds, but also the deepest heaviest compounds from the innermost pockets inside the wood too.
Booyah!
Your arch-nemesis (at least in the case of the Gen3 heating style) is the aroma of combusting wood fibres. The wood smell is not necessarily a bad thing, especially in the case of oh-so-rare batches of ambiently-aromatic wood (did you miss out on our
Filipino wood? *gasp* shame on you!), but the core principle behind Gen3 is simple: release the isolated aroma of the “good stuff” aka “the black stuff” aka the oleoresin, without the interference of other scents from the wood.
After all, we reach for dark, sickly resinated agarwood and not pale cream-colored slabs of bunk grade wood, right? Its the “good stuff” we’re after.