Al Shareef Oudh
Master Perfumer
Kyara/Kynam: IS IT REALLY OUD?
Since the day I joined certain forums, I have been reading a lot about Kyara/Kynam. Description I have read about the wood and certain oils about it shows it is the best Oud ever found in human history, and we, the twenty first centurians, are the fortunate ones to wear and smell it. Appreciation is almost limitless.
Certain things keep striking my mind. Of course, collectively made quest to reach some concrete and solid platform, rather than bombastic descriptions of vendors, is what this Forum has blessed us with. Therefore, for my personal knowledge, I would request for the posts regarding certain aspects:
i. Any reference, authentic and valid, about presence of Kynam/Kyara OIL in/ by Arabs and in the Subcontinent?
ii. Has kynam/kyara ever been used like Oudwood in Arabian and Asian countries?
iii. Had kynam/kyara always been included in Oud OIL array? Or has it been very much in culture since the beginning?
iv. Is kyra/kynam really Oud? Has it some similarity with Oud, the Oud that has been considered Oud since ages, or is it a medicine or some fragrant wood like cedar, etc?
v. When was kynam/kyara appear as an epitome of Oud, especially OIL? (Burning its wood is a separate topic.)
vi. Is kynam/kyara considered a that-much-appreciated Oud (if at all it is an oud) in the Subcontinent, especially in India? Or is it considered even an Oud in traditional Oud OIL area-Hind?
vii. Kynam/ Kyara notes generally described are really Oud notes?
I hope ‘personal preference’ is not to be considered a yardstick. Above questions are many, but nature is the same.
I have been thinking on kynam/kyara for a couple of months, but whenever I read the description, I feel I am going to order chunks of candies, not Oud. Whatever vendors say, that is no recommendation at all as a lot of factors are involved active in the back of mind of vendors. Moreover, a chef’s praise for the edibles cooked by him is the weakest thing, especially when vendors are not master distillers.
There are some other things to be explored. But later, I will post about them. I strongly hope I will benefit from all respectable members.
Respected brother Rai Munir, a very interesting topic, and clearly you have done a lot of reading and pondering on what you have read, for the points you have raised is no extract from marketing gimmicks.
i. I hear and see your point clearly Oudh is an Arabic reference given, value and sacredness by Islam due to the Prophet PBUH utilising it as a incense. Therefore the term Oudh is wholly from that context.
ii. I can confirm from what has been passed to me, and what I have researched there is no reference to Kyara or Ky Nam in our heritage and literature of the old.
Ibn Baytaar mentions the following regarding types of Oudh;
قال الشيخ الرئيس: أجود أصناف العود المندلي ويجلب من وسط الهند عند قوم ثم الذي يقال له الهندي وهو جبلي ويفضل على المندلي بأنه لا يولد القمل وهو أعبق في الثياب، ومن الناس من لا يفرق بين المندلي والهندي الفاضل، ومن أفضل العود السمندوري وهو من سفالة الهند ثم القماري وهو صنف من السفالي، ومن بعد ذلك القاقلي والبري والقطفي والصيني ويسمى القشمري وهو رطب حلو وهو دون ذلك والحلالي والمانطاقي واللوالي والمربطاني والمندلي عامته جيدة ثم أجود السمندوري الأزرق
The Shaykh Al Rais said: The finest varieties of oudh is the Mandalee and it is brought from central India by the Qawm and then what is called Hindi and it is from mountains, preferable over Mandalee as it does not allow lice to breed in the clothes that it is applied on, and there are those who do not differentiate between Mandalee and Hindi, and the best oudh of Samandori, found in the lower areas of India and it is classified as Saaffili, and then the Qaqli, Berri, Qing and Chinese and it is called al-Qashmari, which is moist and native to that area the Mantaki, the Wali, the Berlani, the Mandalee.
Whilst they had exposure to many different oudhs we can not see a mention of Ky Nam or Kyara.
iii, even among the Japanese who have listened to Kyara notes in kodo sessions for centuries, even they did not come forward with kyara oil, as such the old Japanese references do not speak of an oil but an incense wood.
The concept of Kyara oil can be tackled in two ways. Oil from kyara wood, or oil smelling like kyara. The latter is the case with regards to what online vendors are selling. They are oils carrying some hint of a kyara smell and even in that case the brother has clarified that it is his take on what he feels is Kynamic/kyara like, so for another person it may not even have a slightest smell to kyara the incense experience.
iv, that is a very good question, Kyara is agarwood, but is it oudh in the real sense of the term? no because as we can see in the classic texts the Arabs do not speak of it and since the word is from their context, kyara is not in it. Can it be added today based on common species? yes it can, but is a new addition, yes.
Kyara has a larger number of fragrant compounds than the average agarwood and some compounds that are shared in kyara and other agarwoods, kyara are nearly double the intensity in those compounds. Does that mean it smells better not necessarily.
v, the claim that kyara oil is the epitome is only a singular narrative, since even in Japanese text it is the wood that is praised.
vi, no
vii, there are some that are shared, both from smell perspective and scientifically. I am sure you have already read this, but for completeness I will share it here https://www.kyarazen.com/scientific-literature-kyara/
I don't believe one can realistically challenge the quality, variety, complexity and beauty of what has come out of the Subcontinent for such a consistently long period. The whole bubble created around Kyara by miss using Chinese-Japanese value system, with regards to listening to scents, is easily see through once a person becomes a bit familiar with the marketing gimmicks. It is unfortunate though how abused the term kyara has become with some people having something kyara in every other oil as though their cousin grew them in their back yard. The reality of such abuse is, people then get confused between the real meaning and the gimmicky meaning. There is so much wonderful lessons that can be learnt from the Kodo philosophy of listening to the delicate notes and the humility in the whole process. It is a shame to see the misuse of that philosophy for the purpose of marketing.
In summary, no the kyara profile is not the pinnacle of scent, there are other more complex oudh woods both from a fulfilment perspective and a fragrance perspective, it just depends which context one is looking at this from.

expansive more than gold!!!