Opinions before Sandalwood Purchase

[IntenseBlue]

I'm interested in making my first sandalwood purchases starting tomorrow if possible.

I've spent around a month researching on here and on base notes, as well as reading books. Long term I'm interested in creating my own perfumes.

Short term I want to learn an ingredient well which is to be the foundation of my first fragrance, that being Sandalwood.

I was not prepared for the vast amount of options to be available and have exhausted myself and available material I've found to help make my decisions and still have some questions, mainly regarding comparison experiences if they can be found.

I initially wanted the highest quality I could find. Turns out this will be way out of my budget I think starting out. I do plan on getting one, if not two high end (to me) Sandalwoods.

1.) Al Shareef Oudh Mysore
2.) Craft Oud Mysore Antique 1989

If anyone has experience with both of these and can compare them that would be fantastic.

I'm also wanting a general all-purpose, replenishable sandalwood to which I thought from Basenotes id settled on Jamie Frater's signature Mysore from Payan Bertrand. I've learned here, along with other suppliers like him such as PSH, Eden, Hermitage, etc that their commercial Sandalwoods are weak.

There are two here that are cheaper than average that have positive review outside of their top note qualities but have traditional sandalwood heart/dry downs, and seem to last all day. Those two are 1.) RK & Sons, and 2.) Ali Brothers. Is there anyone here that can directly compare these two?

Lastly, I may seek middle ground through two alternatives to dodge the prior two of which I have extra questions for.

1.) An Najwa Mysore Classic
2.) Al Shareef Oudh's Tamil Nadu

With the Mysore Classic, it's a brand new distillation and I'm concerned it may be dead and dull jfrater's seems to be touted among other current plantation options. I've not seen any reviews on it.

The Tamil Nadu of ASO is appealing, one because shipping costs add up on these in a hurry 🤣, and it's an older distillation and has fantastic reviews as both an oil, as well as him as a business. The worry here, is that in this purchase I am seeking some sort of standard, benchmark, baseline, etc. And a decent blending oil as well. I'm not looking for something specialized or distilled in a manner to where it's irreplaceable even if it isn't $100 a gram.

Any and all feedback will be highly appreciated.

First post, btw...glad to be here. Been lurking Basenotes for years and within just the last week, I may not ever go back 😂

 

[Mr.P]

if the oil is distilled truly from pure heartwood and with no excess temperature an Indonesian oil can be very very similar to one from India, (assuming the one from India is also distilled from pure heartwood). mild smooth top notes, some balance of nutty, buttery, and woody… olefaktory made sold an oil from Aceh heartwood and I would bet that just about anybody here would've thought it was from India… Just classic sandalwood with no strong regional aspect.

most Indonesian oil I have smelled has a distinct terroir, which I perceive as a kind of earthy mineral quality, almost a sense of wet soil - a kind of petrichor. I find it very enjoyable but I am 90% sure that's a sign that the distillation either was made from or included a lot of sapwood or white wood along with the heartwood. I also suspect this is the case for the super buttery or super nutty or those Indian sandal oils that have some really forward quality… Something out of the ordinary is going on… High temperature, white wood, etc.

Steam distilled heartwood oil should be relatively mild in aroma at first but really lay down a nice thick velvety long lasting woody buzz, whether Indian or Indonesian in origin.

Indian oils have included a whole range of accessory notes that I've never smelled in those from Indonesia. Lily, strong nutty and buttery, mild rubbery, maple and fenugreek.

Indian heartwood oil hydrodistilled over long periods of time in copper stills that I have smelled takes on a sublime complexity very much like the aroma of a slab of fine heartwood on a subitism- musky, deep oily aroma, maple and fenugreek, rich velvety fuzz, multifaceted pheromonal and even slightly urine-like in a way that's not at all unpleasant in the context of the sandalwood

 

[IntenseBlue]

Nutty, buttery, creamy, and milky are what I've read you're going to miss getting away from Mysore. It also seems the musky, "pheromonal" element you refer to gets traded for earthy, Smoky, and spicy. The spicy may apply to Mysore too. Going off of memory of reading, obviously not experience yet. I've attempted to soak in alot the last several weeks in a condensed time period. This is what I don't want to miss out on or trade for at under $20 a gram. Although I'm not expecting the best of that available at that price range I don't want to replace it with something else.

 

[IntenseBlue]

My bad. I had not noticed Santalea had sold out. I can smell a difference in the two as well. Somehow the Indo has an oceanic note to it. Slightly salty top which isn't surprising given it's origin. I'm quite partial to it. MesOud's NTT also carries this "saltiness".

Ive noticed 1-3 products going out of stock every day for four days now. Not a big deal, and a decent handful over the last month. Only seen one restock.

 

[IntenseBlue]

if the oil is distilled truly from pure heartwood and with no excess temperature an Indonesian oil can be very very similar to one from India, (assuming the one from India is also distilled from pure heartwood). mild smooth top notes, some balance of nutty, buttery, and woody… olefaktory made sold an oil from Aceh heartwood and I would bet that just about anybody here would've thought it was from India… Just classic sandalwood with no strong regional aspect.

most Indonesian oil I have smelled has a distinct terroir, which I perceive as a kind of earthy mineral quality, almost a sense of wet soil - a kind of petrichor. I find it very enjoyable but I am 90% sure that's a sign that the distillation either was made from or included a lot of sapwood or white wood along with the heartwood. I also suspect this is the case for the super buttery or super nutty or those Indian sandal oils that have some really forward quality… Something out of the ordinary is going on… High temperature, white wood, etc.

Steam distilled heartwood oil should be relatively mild in aroma at first but really lay down a nice thick velvety long lasting woody buzz, whether Indian or Indonesian in origin.

Indian oils have included a whole range of accessory notes that I've never smelled in those from Indonesia. Lily, strong nutty and buttery, mild rubbery, maple and fenugreek.

Indian heartwood oil hydrodistilled over long periods of time in copper stills that I have smelled takes on a sublime complexity very much like the aroma of a slab of fine heartwood on a subitism- musky, deep oily aroma, maple and fenugreek, rich velvety fuzz, multifaceted pheromonal and even slightly urine-like in a way that's not at all unpleasant in the context of the sandalwood

I have a history question for you that maybe you know the answer to. Were those Indian govt bottled sandalwoods hydro-distilled or steam distilled? I'm assuming they were also copper.

 

[Mr.P]

I have a history question for you that maybe you know the answer to. Were those Indian govt bottled sandalwoods hydro-distilled or steam distilled? I'm assuming they were also copper.

I have read that most of those were distilled with pressurized steam in large steel vessels and then rectified via redistillation to achieve a particular aroma and reach whatever santalol percentage was the standard. Rectification as I understand it is a process where the differences between different individual batches are kind of combined and blended out by redistillation to achieve a uniform profile of oil.

(Always interested in updates/corrections to what I have come to understand).

 

[Shiningrobes]

To me the Indonesian oils I have all have a forward top smell. Not to be contradictory but here’s where I get the rubbery, cooked, nutty notes flickering with lily and other florals. I find them more ascendant and bright upfront. To me they are like mysore with a layer of something extra. And that’s at different price points and distillation set ups. They aren't better or worse or less than. It’s like Mr. P said, I really get the terroir. I’d love to smell some of the Sri Lankan and Bengali sandalwoods that Royal Bengal Oud has.

 

[AlHind Oud]

Great discussion here.

The government oil is 100% steam distilled, but they have hybrid set-up (steel for boiling, copper for condensing and collection).

Also, Indonesian album opening is slightly different from Indian ones, but their heart and base are quite similar. Sometimes it becomes difficult to differentiate both.

I do custom batches for some private collectors and perfumers. I do have some material available, primarily red and black meat root and heartwood. If anyone is interested, please don’t hesitate to reach out. The wholesale rate is quite lower compared to retail, but there’s a minimum quantity that needs to be purchased.

 

[Loulikesoud]

Great discussion here.

The government oil is 100% steam distilled, but they have hybrid set-up (steel for boiling, copper for condensing and collection).

Also, Indonesian album opening is slightly different from Indian ones, but their heart and base are quite similar. Sometimes it becomes difficult to differentiate both.

I do custom batches for some private collectors and perfumers. I do have some material available, primarily red and black meat root and heartwood. If anyone is interested, please don’t hesitate to reach out. The wholesale rate is quite lower compared to retail, but there’s a minimum quantity that needs to be purchased.

I don't think the OP can go wrong here with this offer, Anas. I think you make beautiful oils!!

 

[Margon]

EJayB will not steer you wrong, that's for sure.

You can find him on Instagram. He collaborated with a member here @Margon who produces excellent Aceh sandalwood oil (this would be a bulk order situation).

I have a couple of big bottles of that shavings oil, nice stuff!

Thanks Marco , Collaboration make a perfect product , thanks to ejay , we are now able to produce better sandalwood , our raw materials that mostly coming from the wild matured tree make our sandalwood wood oil little a bit richer than sandalwood oil being produced from the plantation one ( personal opinion ) even though the raw material it is only coming from the shavings 🙂

 

[Margon]

That's who I forgot! I was just talking to him a couple of days ago, Margon that is, and I'm awaiting an order for his aged patchouli which I'm super excited to experience! Anyways dealings with him has been super smooth and efficient and I can't recommend him highly enough! Whether you go for his patchouli oils, or his sandalwood oils!

Thanks bro

 

[AlHind Oud]

I don't think the OP can go wrong here with this offer, Anas. I think you make beautiful oils!!

Thanks, Lou. 🙏

 

[IntenseBlue]

Thanks bro

I am new to Instagram. I have no idea how to find you on there.

 

[IntenseBlue]

Great discussion here.

The government oil is 100% steam distilled, but they have hybrid set-up (steel for boiling, copper for condensing and collection).

Also, Indonesian album opening is slightly different from Indian ones, but their heart and base are quite similar. Sometimes it becomes difficult to differentiate both.

I do custom batches for some private collectors and perfumers. I do have some material available, primarily red and black meat root and heartwood. If anyone is interested, please don’t hesitate to reach out. The wholesale rate is quite lower compared to retail, but there’s a minimum quantity that needs to be purchased.

I'm glad I could help contribute to an appreciable thread and I'm glad you responded! Pm inbound

 

[Shiningrobes]

Not to drive you into the poorhouse or anything, but it looks like the Sulaym HM Mysore is still available.

 

[IntenseBlue]

Not to drive you into the poorhouse or anything, but it looks like the Sulaym HM Mysore is still available.

Haha, it's double what I'm wanting to spend on a sandalwood to play with. But also, that link says sold out and won't allow you to put any in the cart.

 

[LasLunas]

I'm interested in making my first sandalwood purchases starting tomorrow if possible.

I've spent around a month researching on here and on base notes, as well as reading books. Long term I'm interested in creating my own perfumes.

Short term I want to learn an ingredient well which is to be the foundation of my first fragrance, that being Sandalwood.

I was not prepared for the vast amount of options to be available and have exhausted myself and available material I've found to help make my decisions and still have some questions, mainly regarding comparison experiences if they can be found.

I initially wanted the highest quality I could find. Turns out this will be way out of my budget I think starting out. I do plan on getting one, if not two high end (to me) Sandalwoods.

1.) Al Shareef Oudh Mysore
2.) Craft Oud Mysore Antique 1989

If anyone has experience with both of these and can compare them that would be fantastic.

I'm also wanting a general all-purpose, replenishable sandalwood to which I thought from Basenotes id settled on Jamie Frater's signature Mysore from Payan Bertrand. I've learned here, along with other suppliers like him such as PSH, Eden, Hermitage, etc that their commercial Sandalwoods are weak.

There are two here that are cheaper than average that have positive review outside of their top note qualities but have traditional sandalwood heart/dry downs, and seem to last all day. Those two are 1.) RK & Sons, and 2.) Ali Brothers. Is there anyone here that can directly compare these two?

Lastly, I may seek middle ground through two alternatives to dodge the prior two of which I have extra questions for.

1.) An Najwa Mysore Classic
2.) Al Shareef Oudh's Tamil Nadu

With the Mysore Classic, it's a brand new distillation and I'm concerned it may be dead and dull jfrater's seems to be touted among other current plantation options. I've not seen any reviews on it.

The Tamil Nadu of ASO is appealing, one because shipping costs add up on these in a hurry 🤣, and it's an older distillation and has fantastic reviews as both an oil, as well as him as a business. The worry here, is that in this purchase I am seeking some sort of standard, benchmark, baseline, etc. And a decent blending oil as well. I'm not looking for something specialized or distilled in a manner to where it's irreplaceable even if it isn't $100 a gram.

Any and all feedback will be highly appreciated.

First post, btw...glad to be here. Been lurking Basenotes for years and within just the last week, I may not ever go back 😂

Can't go wrong with either by ASO

 

[slore4sandalwood]

Hi,

It seems like since this will be used in a formation, I would purchase at a lower price point. I can affirm that Fraterworks is an excellent choice for a good value, and it smells really good in mixes. Also try Essential Oils Company, not Essential Oil co. They are very different. For a great value in mixes, it's a little fresh and green, but for like 3.00 a gram, who can complain. And yes, I believe it is an RK@Sons company. Those two are my go to for cheaper, yet authentic Indian sandalwood oil. Keep in mind, they are both foreign companies, so the best value is to buy larger quantities.

 

[slore4sandalwood]

Oh wait, also check with Kangiiten for an excellent sandalwood. I believe they have about 5 different distillations now, and they are all excellent! Also check out Nefertum, also excellent and both are in the mid range for cost.

 

[slore4sandalwood]

Trust me, I'm like an expert now. I've almost tried everything out there, from 3 to 50 dollars a gram. I love Kangiiten, that's my favorite!!!!

 

[IntenseBlue]

Hi,

It seems like since this will be used in a formation, I would purchase at a lower price point. I can affirm that Fraterworks is an excellent choice for a good value, and it smells really good in mixes. Also try Essential Oils Company, not Essential Oil co. They are very different. For a great value in mixes, it's a little fresh and green, but for like 3.00 a gram, who can complain. And yes, I believe it is an RK@Sons company. Those two are my go to for cheaper, yet authentic Indian sandalwood oil. Keep in mind, they are both foreign companies, so the best value is to buy larger quantities.

I'm wrestling with purchasing some from them anyways, and very well may do so.

As far as Kangiiten goes, the one in my price range I set for blending purposes is the Shivmagga in the tola size. I didn't list it earlier because I couldn't find any reviews on it.

I honestly couldn't find any commercial product without a negative aspect to it, but didn't want to set my budget higher for blending than what was on the commercial market. I can't afford to experiment with the oils that get no complaints. Makes me wish, I'm sure along with many others, that this was the pre 2000s era for Sandalwood.

I'm in the middle of speaking with Al Shariff and An Najwa, and Frater came back in stock today and have reached out to them via email. I was told over the phone they addressed sales only.

The two main drawbacks I've heard towards Fraters is that it doesn't last all day... Approx. 4 hours vs. 8-12 for good oils, and that for the first couple of hours it's dead. No top notes, and possibly heart. Only a solid base, but that what you get in that is a great smell, albeit weak.

I don't know yet how much Im going to need to get to where I want to be with a perfume or how much is needed to experiment and learn how this product is alone, and how it will react with other oils to settle in on the ratios I need for what I envision. This is where Frater holds an advantage to me, vs say ASOs Tamil Nadu. That oil has FANTASTIC reviews, yet if I need a restock I don't want to have to start fresh. This is a concern, not a deal breaker, but it leans means me in the direction of a commercial product for now for blending specifically. I'll be ordering ASOs Mysore regardless, but it won't be for experimenting with formulas. I don't have that confidence (or enough lack thereof 😂) to play with that. HOWEVER, the whole idea behind me doing this in the first place a few years ago was to bring back the feeling from 80s-90s powerhouse "colognes" (fragrances) that I grew up on and if Fraters sandalwood can't pull an all nighter into the next day it isn't worth a penny to me, specifically, and I've seen this complaint on every commercial oil on the market right now. Fraters however had mixed reviews on this but more negs than positive ones. I'm hoping An Najwa has a positive response to this issue.

I don't want to have to bandaid a Sandalwood with synthetics to get what I want and I don't think from what I've read there's much I can do to lengthen how long it lasts. Maybe a couple of things, but pennies on a dollar.

If I could have a perfect sandalwood for $20 a gram that would be great. If I can't, id rather have a lasting sandalwood that had a load of the traditional sandalwood aspects that separated it from other woods, even if thats all it had, sweet milk, butter, nutty, etc and build the missing citrus, floral, musk, spice etc of exquite examples back into it using naturals than to have one that had all these unique features that was dead by lunch time and have to boost it up with Javanol, Sandalore, Ebanol, Firstanol, Dreamwood, etc., etc.

Sorry for the rant. Didn't realize how much I was typing until the last paragraph.

I do look forward to hearing what you have to say about Fraters.