Jinkoh Store - Grand Emperor Candan (Malaysia 1981)
Grand Emperor Candan defies everything I thought I knew about aged oud oils.
I always thought that old (at least 30 years) oils were always going to be fairly challenging to wear. Mainly due to the traditional distillation methods, soaking times, and fermentation.
But this oil changes everything for me. It opens with the most pleasant and soft sweet and sour duality. The sweetness is so unique and beautiful. It's hard to describe, it's not quite berry, it's not honey, it's almost like a candied sweetness. But it's fighting with a sourness that is also unlike anything I've encountered. Do you remember those sour key candies? The big ones that were $0.25 cents at the corner store? They were delightfully sweet but coated in sour sugar. Somehow, the opening of GEC smells the way those taste, in a bizarre kind of way. Along with the sweet n sour there's a wonderful medicinal quality that is so pleasing and comforting. I can’t quite describe the smell, but it is akin to petrichor or rain/dew.
The sweet n sour vibes don't stick around for too long, the sweetness settles down significantly after about 15 minutes, and the sourness softens, and transforms into more of a gentle petrol or diesel smell. And it's at this point the wood comes in. GEC has the craziest wood notes I've ever sniffed. It's incredibly dry or dusty, and reminds me of a freshly constructed cedar sauna house, before any sort of fire has been lit. The wood is so calming and natural smelling. The Sweet and sour aspects now remind me of finding a sticky drop of fresh sap on one of the cedar planks.
In the dry down, the scent remains quite woody, the dry, or dusty quality transforms into more of a damp or earthy quality. I still get some nice subtle sweetness but the sour notes have disappeared. The medicinal/petrichor vibes remain softly for the duration, lasting many many hours on my skin.
All of these notes and characteristics are nothing like I've ever experienced in a Malay oil, especially one that is almost 45 years old!
For me, this is a heritage oil, a reference of vintage Malay oud, and one of if not the highest quality oils I've ever had the pleasure of owning.