Attar/Mukhallat of the Day

[Castingshadows]

Wearing a combo today. Russian Oud 2 on top Oud Balsam from Feel Oud.

Oud Balsam is an interesting one to me because to MY nose it’s straight up Oud all the way through. Like to the point that all I can smell is one of the most gorgeous, fruity pipe tobacco smellin ouds from that region I’ve ever come across. The tobacco and sweetness is only there to enhance the Thai Oud which comprises something like 35-40% of the composition. It’s incredible.

The combo on top of Russian Oud is just insane. It’s like a thai Oud version of Russian Oud but with a slightly tart, overly ripe, kinda bitter, fruity, cherry twang and tobacco.

 

[Mr.P]

I have samples of those areej fragrances - given your reaction, I may need to take another look at those two.

Today it is “malika” rose oil from sulaym’s sq oils. This is definitely a very distinctive Rose oil, smells like it is high quality and was well stored. Very tangy rosey opening avoiding the sweaty/boozey notes in the opening of some rose ottos.

I believe the website lists this as Bulgarian. I don’t think that’s what I would’ve guessed. If I hadn’t known I probably would have thought it was a select ruh gulab perhaps. In fact, it reminds me of the ruh gulab sample i got from Ward Lab recently more than my other rose oils.

The rosey/citrus heart is really well balanced - hits the nose nicely and is very appealing.

 

[Castingshadows]

Decided to wear Tabac Grande on the wrists and then several hours later went with the modern tabac masterpiece OG Vanilla Paradise by Jinkoh on the chest. I’ve been surrounded in the best of the best tobacco attars on the planet all day today. It was glorious.

Oh and Mr. P Oud Balsam took a couple wearings before I could smell past the sweet resins but now all I smell is Thai Oud. It’s wild how different it smells now.

 

[Mr.P]

Nice to see you posting here castingshadows.

this morning it is Ghalia banu hashim from al najwa. This is really a primal and absolutely delicious fragrance. I tried to choose my words carefully - I was pretty stunned by this one just now. A small swipe greeted me with rich sandalwood and musk blast, balanced with some sweet floral aspects… don’t trust my nose but i would guess sambac, rose otto (?), oud, sandalwood, and musk are part of it. Very nice stuff, exotic fragrance, smells ancient and primal, and like a carefully developed recipe.

As you can see in the picture, there’s a fair amount of sediment, so this one is still macerating!


(Update: really nice balanced musk and sandalwood- the dry down is really balanced and addicitve)

 

[An Najwa]

Nice to see you posting here castingshadows.

this morning it is Ghalia banu hashim from al najwa. This is really a primal and absolutely delicious fragrance. I tried to choose my words carefully - I was pretty stunned by this one just now. A small swipe greeted me with rich sandalwood and musk blast, balanced with some sweet floral aspects… don’t trust my nose but i would guess sambac, rose otto (?), oud, sandalwood, and musk are part of it. Very nice stuff, exotic fragrance, smells ancient and primal, and like a carefully developed recipe.

As you can see in the picture, there’s a fair amount of sediment, so this one is still macerating!


(Update: really nice balanced musk and sandalwood- the dry down is really balanced and addicitve)
View attachment 31994

I'm glad you're enjoying it Mr. P
This Doesn't have any Sandalwood oil in it.
One of my friend also noticed this sandal note in it but.. I guess that's other ingredients mimicking sandalwood oil.
Same is the case with Sambac(it has no Sambac as well) 😄

 

[Mr.P]

About how many ingredients are in that? I look forward to hearing someone else’s reaction because I think it is something special.

 

[An Najwa]

About how many ingredients are in that? I look forward to hearing someone else’s reaction because I think it is something special.

Around 15+ ingredients went into it
All ingredients are the best of their kind sourced from all over the world from different Artisans, Distillers and Vendors.
Tried to make it simple yet complex.
Taking help from the works & Formulations of early century Perfumer/Alchemist Al Kindi.

 

[Mr.P]

Well, it is a really nice thing you’ve got there. Making it hard to evaluate my own attempts at blending at the moment on a couple of levels 😅

1. It’s long lasting
2. It’s nose-glued-to-wrist good
3. It has good silage and projection

This is making it hard to pay attention to and assess my own trials because it’s making them all smell way better than they actually would if I wasn’t getting a little whiffs of the ghalia mixed in with the aromas.

On two occasions today, I was thinking “damn I’m really making progress on that one fragrance” only to realize Nope! it’s a residue from the ghalia

 

[An Najwa]

Happy to hear that Mr. P
I'm currently wearing the Ghaliya while traveling
Ghaliya and Pinoy Imperiale are my companions on the trip
Applying oils with Musk grains in them is a thing I love the most.
crushing and pressing grains with the wrists together makes the Olfactory experience even more beautiful to me!
And ofcourse applying it to the beard and moustache 🤩🤩

 

[Taesik Yun]

2022 Musk Rose Attar (Green Batch) from @RisingPhoenix

Although Musk Rose Attar need no instruction at this point, I don’t think I saw review on this 2022 green batch.
while the apple-y sweet, musky rose scent still remains here, I get more of a Fougere-like vibe from this batch.
think oakmoss, lavender, and conifer. It feels much more like a classic French perfume than the original version.
it’s very powdery and white-musky. smells clean like a freshly laundered shirt.

Yes, it can still be called Musk Rose Attar, but I would personally refer to it as French Musk Rose Attar.

 

[Mr.P]

I am still trying to wrap my head around a sample of ruh bela from ward lab. It is a very nice sambac - absolutely an outlier compared to my other specimens, but in the best sense.

I have smelled a bunch of oils sold as ruh motia from reputable vendors. The variations in these oils are extreme - i feel there’s no way that they can all be authentic sambac distillates based on the range of smells that I’m getting. Some are like perfect flower impressions, but have odd cloying dry downs. Others hit and linger like chemical perfumes in some way. A couple of late have smelled “right” to me. Ruh mogra (an najwa) and this ruh motia from wardlab.

this just smells spot on from top to bottom. I’m having a hard time articulating this, but it has some of the roughness that you would expect from a distilled natural product. In this case, those are not detriments, they add to its charm. This ruh bela smells like it was distilled in a deg, it does not smell too good to be true. This one smells just right.

 

[Ahmaoud]

Started the morning as an oud day, but ended up having to run some errands and couldn't really enjoy the oil in the calm I usually get to.

Coming back home, the mood was different, felt I wanted to venture into some some macerations, sniffed several samples before settling on @mesOUD Sandal Mysore & Siberian Deer Musk as well as his attar AA. The scents of either is difficult to explain, there's something grounding, captivating and undeniably beautiful in them. Continuous arm sniffers for sure.

 

[Mr.P]

One thing i love: 3 drops of ck co2 oil in 10ml of alcohol as a light oud spray. So freaking nice. That has to be only around 1% concentration and it smells great. There are some things you just cannot smell when applying oil full strength and some oud opens up like a flower when diluted to 1%. Ironically, and not really surprising to me, many of the fermented gulf types smell dull/funky when diluted.

Also this week has been all about amber experiments for me. Vanilla, benzoin, patchouli, sumbul, myrrh, ambrette and others. I love the long sweet addictive dry down. Some ambers scratch the itch that some oud does in terms of being a long lasting sweet smelling addictive scent that changes slowly as it evaporates and has an appealing dry down that lasts many hours.

 

[Clyff6ix]

@Hamza H 's Mukhallat Maliki: Vintage Blend. Oud, Rose, and an unapologetic dose of civet paste and maybe hyraceum, musk, or both. It's a beauty and a beast!

 

[Mr.P]

Oh man it’s good times in the mrp household let me tell you. Mesoud… you make crazy stuff you are the olfactory alchemist. That castoreum is CRAZY. Did not expect it to be that interesting and complex. Wtf. This seems so incredibly useful as an ingredient!

First, there’s this complex phenolic, smoky backdrop, musky… some kind of wild willow / salicylate note that does not smell at all literary like wintergreen yet clearly in some kind of related birch/ birch tar dark smoky resinous sense. Smoky isn’t quite right, but isn’t wrong either and this stuff is reminiscent of fermented oud in terms of complex Funk. I suspect the fermentation happened in the castoreum sac itself (as is the case with musk) but that’s just a guess. Consistency is a thick dark sticky liquid with some granularity. Clings to the walls of the bottle. 🙂

 

[mesOUD]

Oh man it’s good times in the mrp household let me tell you. Mesoud… you make crazy stuff you are the olfactory alchemist. That castoreum is CRAZY. Did not expect it to be that interesting and complex. Wtf. This seems so incredibly useful as an ingredient!

First, there’s this complex phenolic, smoky backdrop, musky… some kind of wild willow / salicylate note that does not smell at all literary like wintergreen yet clearly in some kind of related birch/ birch tar dark smoky resinous sense. Smoky isn’t quite right, but isn’t wrong either and this stuff is reminiscent of fermented oud in terms of complex Funk. I suspect the fermentation happened in the castoreum sac itself (as is the case with musk) but that’s just a guess. Consistency is a thick dark sticky liquid with some granularity. Clings to the walls of the bottle. 🙂

Happy to hear that u like it,these are the material which i push close friends to buy,i pushed many friends whom makes blending trials,to see and try these materials
This weekend i will vacuum beeswax it is also amazing

 

[EJayB]

Happy to hear that u like it,these are the material which i push close friends to buy,i pushed many friends whom makes blending trials,to see and try these materials
This weekend i will vacuum beeswax it is also amazing

Dry nondestructive distillation ?

 

[mesOUD]

Dry nondestructive distillation ?

Castoreum absolute

 

[EJayB]

Vacuum beeswax?

 

[mesOUD]

Vacuum beeswax?

Vaporating solvent with rotary evaporator
İ meant to seperate solvent and material