Attar/Mukhallat of the Day
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Do you mean firdous ? or jannah? I think it means heavenly garden, garden of paradise or something along those lines
Mousse de Chene
True Ouddict
An intriguing olfactory experiment - a swipe of EO Borneo 50k & then on top I applied a drop of Chanel No 5 extrait (1980s vintage).
I was curious to see how a classic floral aldehyde would interact with Oud.
I’ve previously conducted this experiment with Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan & ASO Safwaan, the final result was very pleasing! However, Hindi Oud mixed with Labdanum, Vanilla & spice is common in Arabic perfumery & was bound to smell at least ok.
Although I prefer high quality naturals, I also collect vintage extraits from Chanel, Guerlain & Patou. I have a lot of respect for the old French masters, not so much modern French perfumery!
No 5 is a timeless masterpiece especially in its vintage form. The Ylang, Jasmine, Orris & Rose are well blended & it’s difficult to isolate just one aroma, they come together to form a beautiful floral heart.
The honeyed, Santal notes of the Borneo complemented No 5’s ambery Sandalwood aroma molecules very well. The Borneo’s suggestion of white flowers & mossy jungle floor paired perfectly with No 5’s florals, green notes & the Oakmoss dry down.
I thought these two might work together, but I was surprised at the impressive final result.
It makes one think how different the trajectory of French perfumery could’ve been if the perfumers had access to Oud essential oil back in the day.
Next up I’ll be swiping a tiny amount of a Mysore / Mongolian Musk maceration over the top of some old vintage extraits. I have a feeling the slight kiss of natural Musk & Sandalwood is going to elevate many of those formulas!
I was curious to see how a classic floral aldehyde would interact with Oud.
I’ve previously conducted this experiment with Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan & ASO Safwaan, the final result was very pleasing! However, Hindi Oud mixed with Labdanum, Vanilla & spice is common in Arabic perfumery & was bound to smell at least ok.
Although I prefer high quality naturals, I also collect vintage extraits from Chanel, Guerlain & Patou. I have a lot of respect for the old French masters, not so much modern French perfumery!
No 5 is a timeless masterpiece especially in its vintage form. The Ylang, Jasmine, Orris & Rose are well blended & it’s difficult to isolate just one aroma, they come together to form a beautiful floral heart.
The honeyed, Santal notes of the Borneo complemented No 5’s ambery Sandalwood aroma molecules very well. The Borneo’s suggestion of white flowers & mossy jungle floor paired perfectly with No 5’s florals, green notes & the Oakmoss dry down.
I thought these two might work together, but I was surprised at the impressive final result.
It makes one think how different the trajectory of French perfumery could’ve been if the perfumers had access to Oud essential oil back in the day.
Next up I’ll be swiping a tiny amount of a Mysore / Mongolian Musk maceration over the top of some old vintage extraits. I have a feeling the slight kiss of natural Musk & Sandalwood is going to elevate many of those formulas!
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R
Rename
Guest
I’ve been doing this with some of my Ateek Series Attars to great effect !
Makes me wonder how they’d be in an Oud base 🙌🏼
Mr.P
oud<3er
Applied a dot of davana - an oil I got from prima fleur botanicals back in 1993 or so. Very interesting fresh airy projecting fruity tart wormwood becoming sweet jammy
Anyone know if this is one that gets better or worse with age? Oil smells great, and is not quite a shrill as it used to be. I wouldn’t want to use it as a perfume, but I can see it would add unique notes to an attar.
Any thoughts on natural materials that go well with davana? Does anyone have simple accords based on davana and some other materials or suggestions for how to make the best of it?? Thanks in advance
Anyone know if this is one that gets better or worse with age? Oil smells great, and is not quite a shrill as it used to be. I wouldn’t want to use it as a perfume, but I can see it would add unique notes to an attar.
Any thoughts on natural materials that go well with davana? Does anyone have simple accords based on davana and some other materials or suggestions for how to make the best of it?? Thanks in advance
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Mr.P
oud<3er
Got some great smelling stuff today that i am excited to mess around with including carnation absolute (love this stuff), peritgrain sur fleurs, and a really nice rich spikenard - the vibrant green kind, not the dull brown. Some Petitgrain absolute, grapefruit a tasty fresh ginger and monarda (bee balm) which is really a treat. It is citrusy in a very similar way to rose otto - really surprised me in that respect. It is somewhat blowing my mind at the moment.
😍
My package of oil samples from @Al Shareef Oudh arrived today. It's been a few years since I've bought anything from them, and after taking quite a break from oud a few years ago only to come back with an unprecedented vengeance of non-stop buying, I've been revisiting some vendors from the past.
I bought...ahem, 12 oil samples and was kindly sent an additional 4.
I decided to swipe on 'Al Layl' (The Night) - seeing as it is night here, and I'm ready for bed.
Outstanding! This is triggering scent memories of a bakhoor that I bought from ASO years ago - Dhikrayat. The attar is strong, very musky and downright dark, true to its name.
It's progressing now, getting a bit more diffusive, perhaps a little less intense and actually less dark. I think the write-up mentioned blooming night flowers (jasmine?) but I'm not getting that - but I can't pinpoint any notes, just an overall feeling; a texture.
I am definitely going to wear this by itself one day soon. I've got a feeling it'll create a strong aroma around my being for many hours and it'd be a thing to experience properly instead of a small swipe on the back of my hand!
I bought...ahem, 12 oil samples and was kindly sent an additional 4.
I decided to swipe on 'Al Layl' (The Night) - seeing as it is night here, and I'm ready for bed.
Outstanding! This is triggering scent memories of a bakhoor that I bought from ASO years ago - Dhikrayat. The attar is strong, very musky and downright dark, true to its name.
It's progressing now, getting a bit more diffusive, perhaps a little less intense and actually less dark. I think the write-up mentioned blooming night flowers (jasmine?) but I'm not getting that - but I can't pinpoint any notes, just an overall feeling; a texture.
I am definitely going to wear this by itself one day soon. I've got a feeling it'll create a strong aroma around my being for many hours and it'd be a thing to experience properly instead of a small swipe on the back of my hand!
Al Shareef Oudh
Master Perfumer
You guys currently have the best weather for Al Layla, the cold nights , enjoy brother.
Mr.P
oud<3er
I’m comparing six different types of patchouli diluted to 10% on blotter paper today to see if I can really sort out the differences and find a favorite as well as (ideally) a balanced mixture of these to make a patchouli blend:
Patchoulol isolate
22 y.o. Iron free patchouli WLA
Patchoulol MD - liberty
Patchouli fraction B robertet
Patchouli absolute Robertet
30 y.o. thickened patchouli oshadhi
(for the aged oils the number of years is how long I’ve personally aged them).
First notes about 30 min. after applying:
MD Liberty is very present, tart tangy, wine like aspect clear. There is a certain roughness or “serrated” aspect to the aroma in the top note that settles into something sweeter/tangier.
Aged Iron free: very airy smooth initial fragrance, wine like note follows, smooth powdery heart, faint soil/petrichor, less aggressive than MD oil
Absolute: very much like tobacco absolute and patchouli combined. Leafiest at first, typical tangy patchouli notes emerge as tobacco scent fades
Fraction B: very appealing smooth dry fuzzy resembles patchoulol isolate more than the others. Minimal tanginess, feels like a more base oriented note
Thickened/ aged: very much like the smell of a bag of dried patchouly leaves layered with a wonderful tangy wine like patch oil. It really just smelled like dried leaves from the outset, that is fading. I did not expect the realistic dry leaf note at all. This is the most pigmented of the bunch - only one to leave a visible stain at 10%. It is also by far the most peppery of the bunch
Natural isolate: this stuff smells like Nirvana. It would never substitute for a complete patchouli oil, but in itself is just the nicest scent - there is this sweet aged woody note that reminds me of some Borneo oud of all things.
(I am going to periodically update my notes in this particular post for anyone who is curious to see how this changes with time).
Patchoulol isolate
22 y.o. Iron free patchouli WLA
Patchoulol MD - liberty
Patchouli fraction B robertet
Patchouli absolute Robertet
30 y.o. thickened patchouli oshadhi
(for the aged oils the number of years is how long I’ve personally aged them).
First notes about 30 min. after applying:
MD Liberty is very present, tart tangy, wine like aspect clear. There is a certain roughness or “serrated” aspect to the aroma in the top note that settles into something sweeter/tangier.
Aged Iron free: very airy smooth initial fragrance, wine like note follows, smooth powdery heart, faint soil/petrichor, less aggressive than MD oil
Absolute: very much like tobacco absolute and patchouli combined. Leafiest at first, typical tangy patchouli notes emerge as tobacco scent fades
Fraction B: very appealing smooth dry fuzzy resembles patchoulol isolate more than the others. Minimal tanginess, feels like a more base oriented note
Thickened/ aged: very much like the smell of a bag of dried patchouly leaves layered with a wonderful tangy wine like patch oil. It really just smelled like dried leaves from the outset, that is fading. I did not expect the realistic dry leaf note at all. This is the most pigmented of the bunch - only one to leave a visible stain at 10%. It is also by far the most peppery of the bunch
Natural isolate: this stuff smells like Nirvana. It would never substitute for a complete patchouli oil, but in itself is just the nicest scent - there is this sweet aged woody note that reminds me of some Borneo oud of all things.
(I am going to periodically update my notes in this particular post for anyone who is curious to see how this changes with time).
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Oudamberlove
Member
Revisited my Civet in Ali Bros. sandalwood oil maceration from 2018.
The two have become one…in a sense,
nice balance with both still smelling strong.
The two have become one…in a sense,
nice balance with both still smelling strong.
Grega
True Ouddict
I love Al Layl. The scent has such a warmth to it (sort of like you said, like a bakhoor) - perfect for a cool evening. What else did you get?
Mr.P
oud<3er
Follow up to previous post:
After 23+ hours, my observations (in a nutshell) follow below. I’m hoping this helps someone who is trying to find a particular type of patchouli…
Patchoulol isolate
Never has any sharp attributes, very smooth, soft woody, has a dry down note that brings borneo oud to mind without literally smelling like oud.
22 y.o. Iron free patchouli WLA
This had the lightest impact while still having good presence and longevity. It is a semi-transparent simple clean patchouli
Patchoulol MD - liberty
This was one of the least transparent. Very nose-grabbing and pungent patchouli scent but not specifically a high patchoulol scent?
Patchouli fraction B robertet
Very much along the lines of the natural isolate with a bit more presence. Smooth fuzzy patchouli
Patchouli absolute Robertet
Kind of neutral, starting out with a tobacco scent and settling to mild peppery residue. Least impactful of the oils
30 y.o. thickened patchouli oshadhi
The residue on this one is very nice and peppery, only one to leave a faint stain.
After 23+ hours, my observations (in a nutshell) follow below. I’m hoping this helps someone who is trying to find a particular type of patchouli…
Patchoulol isolate
Never has any sharp attributes, very smooth, soft woody, has a dry down note that brings borneo oud to mind without literally smelling like oud.
22 y.o. Iron free patchouli WLA
This had the lightest impact while still having good presence and longevity. It is a semi-transparent simple clean patchouli
Patchoulol MD - liberty
This was one of the least transparent. Very nose-grabbing and pungent patchouli scent but not specifically a high patchoulol scent?
Patchouli fraction B robertet
Very much along the lines of the natural isolate with a bit more presence. Smooth fuzzy patchouli
Patchouli absolute Robertet
Kind of neutral, starting out with a tobacco scent and settling to mild peppery residue. Least impactful of the oils
30 y.o. thickened patchouli oshadhi
The residue on this one is very nice and peppery, only one to leave a faint stain.
Ahmaoud
True Ouddict
@mesOUD 's NNT Sandalwood, which has got this airy, salty note to it, alongside the usual latonic woodiness sandalwood is known for. Paired with An Najwa's blend Jasmine Malaccensis, how this unfolds on the skin is just incredible, you think you know what you're gonna get from the applicator but apply it and after a couple of hours prepare to be amazed! I also wanted to try about a bit of An Najwa's Ruh Khus 2021, and I applied this much later into the dry down of Jasmine Malaccensis and suddenly felt the greenish notes of the jasmine come alive! All three paired really well, though the amounts I used were quite different. In between sniffing these I also had a dot of An Najwa's Jabal, an Assamese oud oil much further up my arm!
Yesterday I also got to experience a bunch of different resinoids and Cedars from mesOud, I can't express the emotion I felt sniffing through them all. Opopanax, Oak Moss and the Cedars were olfactory revelations, if I may be so bold! The kind of scents which leave you haunted by their complexity and just staring off into space. This tiny atelier also helped me pinpoint notes I've enjoyed in several fragrances, Opopanax in Russian Oud for example and Benzoin in Irth (an economy fragrance from Nabeel's Master Perfumer's series). It's a pity certain notes like Cedar (heck even sandalwood) are sometimes described as "pencil shaving like" in commercial fragcomm, it's not completely false, but goodness what it leaves out....
Yesterday I also got to experience a bunch of different resinoids and Cedars from mesOud, I can't express the emotion I felt sniffing through them all. Opopanax, Oak Moss and the Cedars were olfactory revelations, if I may be so bold! The kind of scents which leave you haunted by their complexity and just staring off into space. This tiny atelier also helped me pinpoint notes I've enjoyed in several fragrances, Opopanax in Russian Oud for example and Benzoin in Irth (an economy fragrance from Nabeel's Master Perfumer's series). It's a pity certain notes like Cedar (heck even sandalwood) are sometimes described as "pencil shaving like" in commercial fragcomm, it's not completely false, but goodness what it leaves out....
Mr.P
oud<3er
True cedars are quite distinct and lack the pencil shavings note which is actually from juniper or plants in the cupressaceae (cypress family). True cedar is in the Pine family and as you say the aroma is completely different. In the US we misuse the word cedar for some reason. I love mesoud’s cedar co2 and i had a little vial of the distillation he shared here which unfortunately i broke before getting a chance to really study it. Loved both on first impressions
I am also much enamored of oak moss and cedar. My only opoponax is an oil i bought in 1993 -( the brand was “Aroma Vera” and they had access to some really top shelf materials when they were at their prime). very curious to know how other opoponax oils smell!
Also i read more than once that texas “cedar” is the preferred material in the juniper group for fine perfume as opposed to virginia cedar which is more of the typical pencil wood.
My problem is that these junipers don’t remind me of pencils they remind me of bedding for small animals. Smells like gerbils!
I am also much enamored of oak moss and cedar. My only opoponax is an oil i bought in 1993 -( the brand was “Aroma Vera” and they had access to some really top shelf materials when they were at their prime). very curious to know how other opoponax oils smell!
Also i read more than once that texas “cedar” is the preferred material in the juniper group for fine perfume as opposed to virginia cedar which is more of the typical pencil wood.
My problem is that these junipers don’t remind me of pencils they remind me of bedding for small animals. Smells like gerbils!
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Ahmaoud
True Ouddict
You're spot on as always Mr. P! I had heard of this difference (in nomenclature, if it can even be called that) but until I smelled true cedars, the distinction didn't register as distinctly as it does now. All three I tried from mesOud were gorgeous, his cedar libani distillation and his atlas cedar have this tropical fruit facet when sniffed from the cap, albeit a very non-descript tropical fruit. The scent of pencil shavings as much as I can appreciate it, seems to be inexorably tied to the scent of hamster cages.
The opopanax I have is a resinoid, very thick, gothic balsam is what comes to mind immediately sniffing it. I wonder if the oil (tincture, or maceration ?) you have captures a different profile to resinoid. I would highly recommend getting a sample of this, I'm positive you'll enjoy! It also reminds me of the scent of my great aunt's pantry, she had one separated by 4 stairs, away from the kitchen, and this is what I remember smelling anytime I went to grab pasta or see what the cookie (or in her home, biscuit) selection was like.
Labdanum resinoid actually smells like an airier Opopanax, the benzoin, smells like sweet vanillic resin , and the oakmoss, so complex, I imagine a straight dilution with some citrus or florals could be a standalone cologne!
The opopanax I have is a resinoid, very thick, gothic balsam is what comes to mind immediately sniffing it. I wonder if the oil (tincture, or maceration ?) you have captures a different profile to resinoid. I would highly recommend getting a sample of this, I'm positive you'll enjoy! It also reminds me of the scent of my great aunt's pantry, she had one separated by 4 stairs, away from the kitchen, and this is what I remember smelling anytime I went to grab pasta or see what the cookie (or in her home, biscuit) selection was like.
Labdanum resinoid actually smells like an airier Opopanax, the benzoin, smells like sweet vanillic resin , and the oakmoss, so complex, I imagine a straight dilution with some citrus or florals could be a standalone cologne!
Mr.P
oud<3er
I need to refresh my oakmoss stash as well. I have a fair amount but it is old and i assume has lost some of its charm.
Isn’t that true cedar note interesting? I have a couple of bottles of atlas cedar i got in the past but they are nowhere near as appealing. The CO2 from mesoud opened my eyes and really smells great to me. There’s so much stuff I want to buy right now it’s driving me a little bit crazy
Isn’t that true cedar note interesting? I have a couple of bottles of atlas cedar i got in the past but they are nowhere near as appealing. The CO2 from mesoud opened my eyes and really smells great to me. There’s so much stuff I want to buy right now it’s driving me a little bit crazy
Ahmaoud
True Ouddict
Totally! Starting to realize here's another one of those things, much like "Oud Notes" that I'll have to start ignoring when consuming fragrance related media elsewhere. Turning into quite the allegory of the cave situation the more of these notes I explore, "You think that's cedar but it's actually juniper" 😆 or "You think this is oud but it's actually a skillful combination of patchouli, and nagarmotha"
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