Attar/Mukhallat of the Day

[Mr.P]

I applied a swipe of mesoud’s cedar oil today. It is an absolutely outrageous and wonderful cedar oil, unlike anything that I have smelled before. It clearly has the atlas cedar profile but there are all these complex dry spicy and herbal notes that are really very appealing. Amazing oil!

 

[YusaAromatics]

Sunset in Mysore - Jinkoh Store …
Sunset in Maroc - Jinkoh Store …
Both gorgeous in their own lane, both have a story to tell. Sunset in Maroc is 1001 nights in attar form. Both have crazy projection, mysore leans more on the soft punchy side while maroc is a heavy hitter.

Marius shows again why he is one of the most talented attar makers in the game. We had a meet up last week and everything i have tried from Jinkoh Store, agarwood oils, attars, edp’s were all crazy and on another level. We sprayed some sunset in maroc edp on the shop manager of Amouage and her mind buzzed. JS has all sort of styles, french to middle eastern. Im just talking about the released stuff here, there is some unreleased gems that will drop soon that are jaw dropping.

Big shout out to Marius

 

[Paimei]

EO mystical lotus. To my nose this is Ensar’s best blend, though Purple rain is a close second

Hello sir

I, am looking to buy purple rain attar for some reason the listing keeps drawing me in. Could you please describe the scent profile of the attar please

 

[Mr.P]

Got a sample of jasmine sambac distillate from mesoud. This smells like the real deal based on my own experiments and some chaitman oils i have recently sniffed. This particular sambac has an almost juhi-like element and is similar to the Chaitman sambac distillate.

There seem to be at least two main chemotypes of jasmine sambac out there as some other sambac distillate are more fruity grape candy like as opposed to the type that has a slight juhi note. Could this be motia vs. mogra? N. vs S. terroir?

 

[oudstronaut]

Coronation Attar - Rising Phoenix Perfumery

It smells like nothing I’ve ever experienced. Beautiful spices and florals on the opening. Jasmine, cinnamon right at the core surrounded by deep, dark, royal notes fit for King Charles himself.

This oil contains a real Chrism oil used for anointing in religious ceremony. Usually this stuff is diluted in olive oil. But here it is used as a perfume ingredient and contributes to the spicy-floral core that is unique to this fragrance.

As the oil heats up, the sandalwood is “activated”. Beautiful sandalwood with a nice “fuzzy” woodiness.

Eventually, the oil yields to luxurious sweet, spicy, and resinous dry-down. Smells almost edible.

It’s a really unique scent. Especially on the opening. I’m not sure exactly what is accounting for it. I guess it’s the Byzantine chrism oil and how the various spices and florals JK uses are tactfully employed to augment those up to 57 aromatics that are used to create “Chrism”.

At the end of the day, I can’t really pull this one apart. Probably because I haven’t smelled Chrism oil on its own… so I can’t separate it out from the other notes or overall composition. At the end of the day though. This stuff is very unique and quite wearable and is JK’s best guess at how a real king’s anointing oil would smell. And how would you like to be anointed with this stuff the next time you’re called upon to perform an important duty in your life. It’s just a few clicks away and at least worth a sample.

 

[Mr.P]

Not as powerful as I’d like it to tbh.

I think the sandalwood I’m using overpowered the rest of the notes so I think I’ll have to scale that back, add more Labdanum and Vanilla maybe even a little bit of benzoin to make a real classic amber scent.

Sandalwood will tame and subdue many otherwise punchy oils. Very useful actually

 

[Mr.P]

I am currently checking out five attar samples mesoud sent with a recent order. Quite a collection of aromas - one has a tuberose / cocoa vibe, and something familiar I can’t quite put my finger on - like narcissus or jonquil, or maybe marigold; another smells like sambac with other mild shamama type notes I can’t resolve (a bit like ASO’s jasmine), musk perhaps. One I have no idea how to describe - just utterly unfamiliar as far as ingredients go - but gives me flashbacks of being at my Aunt’s house for some reason; finally there is also a kind of spicy musk - has some of the mixed spice and spikenard/ valerian note of Japanese incense.

Quite an interesting collection of scents and smells like high quality Ingredients. I would say these are heavy/oriental scents with a lot of fixative oils. They are hard to smell on a dipstick and I rarely wear mukhallats, so i put these on blotter paper to open up the smell.

I am guessing that these would smell a bit different if applied to the skin. Additionally mesoud told me they are young and should be allowed to macerate for more time.

Nice work Mesoud! In general, how did you go about developing these recipes? Are they intuitive based on your own experiments or based on some traditional blends that you have adjusted?

 

[mesOUD]

Wow
How you catched little amount of valerian root,spikenard,marigold there
👏👏👏
All are my own creations,really when i said i dont smell any perfume or mukhallat,for a long time,i was very serious,i dont want that anything effect my creativity.
Also you are very right,just need to see them on skin,also paper wont give u right response

 

[Mr.P]

The one with sambac as a prominent note is now musky. My favorite so far is the one labeled “AA”

Roughly how many ingredients are blended into these attars (or what range since they are all different)? It helps to know if I’m smelling a mixture of five things or 25 bit of it is a secret no problem.

 

[mesOUD]

The one with sambac as a prominent note is now musky. My favorite so far is the one labeled “AA”

Roughly how many ingredients are blended into these attars (or what range since they are all different)? It helps to know if I’m smelling a mixture of five things or 25 bit of it is a secret no problem.

Aa is AYASOFYA
ingredients are,
-Base is sandal mysore
-3 different oud(indonesia,india and cambodia)
-animalics:dominant one is castoreum,bees wax,civet and deer musk
Rose
Champaca
Davana
Costus
Vetiver
Pink peper
Vanilla
Cedarwood
Guicawood
Amyris
Safroon
Nutmeg
Nagarmotha
So we are talking about 21 i think
But most are the combinations that i worked on them so far
So i matched 3-4 combinations together

 

[Renzo C]

Hello sir

I, am looking to buy purple rain attar for some reason the listing keeps drawing me in. Could you please describe the scent profile of the attar please

It is very similar to Iris Ghalia. It is very dense, syrupy sweet blackcurrant, with a big dose of musky powdery iris and oud. It is very nice if you like powerful dense sweet florals.

 

[Sproaty]

My "attar" that I mixed on some kitchen roll almost 2 weeks ago still smells really strongly. I don't know what the prominent notes are (lol) but it's still throwing off a pretty strong smell! And people say that naturals don't last...!

 

[Mr.P]

I mixed up different ratios of benzoin tincture and a jasmine blend I had been evaluating earlier. Trying to see how different % of benzoin affects aroma and longevity.

And after examining these on a strip I’m not convinced jasmine and benzoin are a great pair

 

[oudstronaut]

Ghaliya Al Molouk - Rising Phoenix Perfumery

Just wow. Floral, oudy, sandalwood.

The opening features a beautiful Jasmine Ruh (not poopy at all), taif rose, spices, saffron. It’s bright, floral, sweet, spicy.

With time, oud comes out with with some vanilla, sandalwood and some very tamed animalics. Nothing is overbearing. Tasteful blending all nestled in the arms of a warm sandalwood. The work of a skilled craftsman.

One of my favourite attars from JK. It’d be a coin toss for me between this and his “coronation” attar in terms of what I prefer.

The more I dig into this. And the more stuff I smell. I can’t stress enough how enjoyable these natural attars are. I understand there is nothing wrong with synthetics and that there are many advantages in terms of “performance” for instance. But seeing these scents develop on the skin, learning to appreciate the craftsmanship and how this “journey” was planned by the perfumer. And going from being enveloped in scent to, eventually being “free” of the scent. It all parallels the journey we are on in terms of the journey of life on this planet…. they are not something that fuels our “shenpa”. Our “grasping” of our ego. But rather it is something that helps us to explore the impermanence of our existence. It is nourishment for our spirit.

Dare I continue with this type of rhetoric… I’ve become passionate about this stuff over the past few months.

Anyway. Easy recommendation here… has made me curious about RPP’s “karagul attar”. We’ll see what the future brings in terms of attar exploration. For now, just enjoying these olfactory treasures.

 

[Mr.P]

I’m continuing to work my way through various raw material specimens on blotter paper. I want to make a fragrance or two and I am just refreshing my memory on all the stuff I’ve collected

notes (@10% in etoh)

Jasmine grand co2 (Liberty 2023) orange paste, smells like bubblegum jasmine. Very similar to the grand co2 from Eden. Really unusual aspect of jasmine - smells a lot like a benzoin jasmine mix. Many grand. top notes I love are missing and it is transforming to a heavy jasmine base pretty quickly. Wouldn’t wear it as a fragrance but it seems low in the skanky aspects of jasmine so probably useful in perfume.

Patchouli md (Liberty 2023) is very nice! Pronounced appealing camphorous notes on top of a kind of dry, airy feeling patchouli which also features some of the tart tang as well. Faint nuance almost like nagarmotha. It’s a good one to my nose and would work really well as a
focal point for a sophisticated patchouli fragrance. The camphor and clean woods dryness aspects are forward and musty/mildew notes are absent or mild.

Sandalwood Tamil Nadu co2 total (WLA 2001) is a very viscous translucent amber oil with pungent, pronounced timber, sandalwood and maple notes making up the pretty linear top and heart. it is heavier and more in your nose maple - not as light and confectionary an aroma as maple syrup. also has a almost cloying fuzzy woody note - this complements sandalwood distilled oil nicely but it lacks the suave subtlety and would not work as a substitute at this concentration. This stuff has punch and needs further dilution.

I hope somebody finds these useful - i am posting a bunch because i have been spending much more time with fragrance now than I have in years and you all are the only folks I know who might find the info useful or have thoughts on some of these materials. These aren’t attars or mukhs so no problem if this needs to be moved to another thread.

 

[Ahmed113]

I’m continuing to work my way through various raw material specimens on blotter paper. I want to make a fragrance or two and I am just refreshing my memory on all the stuff I’ve collected

notes (@10% in etoh)

Jasmine grand co2 (Liberty 2023) orange paste, smells like bubblegum jasmine. Very similar to the grand co2 from Eden. Really unusual aspect of jasmine - smells a lot like a benzoin jasmine mix. Many grand. top notes I love are missing and it is transforming to a heavy jasmine base pretty quickly. Wouldn’t wear it as a fragrance but it seems low in the skanky aspects of jasmine so probably useful in perfume.

Patchouli md (Liberty 2023) is very nice! Pronounced appealing camphorous notes on top of a kind of dry, airy feeling patchouli which also features some of the tart tang as well. Faint nuance almost like nagarmotha. It’s a good one to my nose and would work really well as a
focal point for a sophisticated patchouli fragrance. The camphor and clean woods dryness aspects are forward and musty/mildew notes are absent or mild.

Sandalwood Tamil Nadu co2 total (WLA 2001) is a very viscous translucent amber oil with pungent, pronounced timber, sandalwood and maple notes making up the pretty linear top and heart. it is heavier and more in your nose maple - not as light and confectionary an aroma as maple syrup. also has a almost cloying fuzzy woody note - this complements sandalwood distilled oil nicely but it lacks the suave subtlety and would not work as a substitute at this concentration. This stuff has punch and needs further dilution.

I hope somebody finds these useful - i am posting a bunch because i have been spending much more time with fragrance now than I have in years and you all are the only folks I know who might find the info useful or have thoughts on some of these materials. These aren’t attars or mukhs so no problem if this needs to be moved to another thread.

Thank you for sharing. Have you tried layering blotter paper on top of each other and smelling if you like the composition or not? Is it even possible to do this to get an idea before blending the oils?

 

[Mr.P]

Thank you for sharing. Have you tried layering blotter paper on top of each other and smelling if you like the composition or not? Is it even possible to do this to get an idea before blending the oils?

I save the blotters and yes indeed i have uncovered some good combos as you describe by layering the strips. Of course what is left on the blotter when I’m done is often faint and is just the heavier molecules.

 

[oudstronaut]

Musk Rose Attar - Rising Phoenix Perfumery

Zesty, fresh, sweet, musky.

RPP’s Musk Rose Attar is a combination of some very complex natural attar distillations with rose absolute, cambodi oud, and mysore sandalwood. The goal was to recreate the scent of a musk rose… which is a flower I have not smelled!

On a first whiff you can smell the oriental floral flavour to this attar. As with all natural essences.. the real magic takes place on the skin. Nearly a synesthesia-inducing experience. Such a vivid, colourful fragrance with a TON of depth. There are fragrances and then there are “textures”. And this thing has a full on texture to it. Just like oud will have that cold/hot mentholic quality that is palpable in the airways or sometimes on the skin, this attar has this unique texture to it as well.

The rose in this is not like walking through a rose garden. Instead it is like looking at a rose through a kaleidoscope. Vivid and changing as the other notes around it grow and settle in their prominence.

Like many of JK’s creations there is genius in their simplicity. He uses stuff that works and combines it with skill. He doesn’t reinvent the wheel. He takes something that has been around for centuries (traditional Indian attar in this case) and uses them as a background for the rose and oud. Rising Phoenix… the bird that is reborn from the ashes this perfume IS the Phoenix

It’s a very beautiful scent and it’s now obvious to me why it gets the hype that it does!

Another thing, I always love when you can apply a scent early in the day, get that hit of freshness and then, as the day goes on, it becomes more of a sweet and musky experience. This perfume is that. In my opinion, this is how all “daily” perfumes should “perform” ideally and “daily” is how I usually wear stuff.

Gorgeous stuff. The attar itself is an emerald colour which couldn’t be more fitting. Get some and enjoy the olfactory journey!

 

[Ibn Abdillah]

jennat firdaus - @mesOUD

A powerful clasic soapy and fresh opening.
It seems quite simple due to its strength, but if you smell it from a distance, i think much will conclude that it is a masterpiece( and i am not a typical flowerish or soapy scent lover).
Green and white flowers are what comes to mind.
What i think is that jasmine and rose are prominent, maybe some vetiver but i think there are much more ingredients in it.
A scent that gives a classic men's fragrance vibe.
I think this is an ideal scent for summer and spring.

 

[Mr.P]

I have seen this name used for attars from various vendors over the years and am curious - does the name indicate some particular combination of ingredients (for example, an eau de cologne traditionally referred to a distilled mixture of bergamot, neroli, petit grain, lavender etc.)?

I often find myself wishing we could host a collection of basic traditional attar recipes involving oud and other natural materials (that would not infringe on anybody’s trade secrets)