Attar/Mukhallat of the Day
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Mr.P
oud<3er
I just revisited a simple infusion of mongra saffron from @An Najwa in santalol natural isolate. Absolutely sublime. This would be even more amazing in Sandalwood oil of course (I was using the isolate due to its low cost as a kind of carrier for experimental blending purposes, with the intent to rebalance around actual sandalwood in any final higher quality products)
An Najwa
Resident Artisan
I’m currently having a good authentic Mysore sandal oil at bulk prices if you want to get some
Creamy, sweet, calming(with very less to no citrus notes), and woody
Offering only tola (11.66g) and above quantities
Ahmaoud
True Ouddict
Last day and the final Maghrib of 2024, here's what I've worn today:
Attar Mohd. Ayub & Co. Malikee SSS - 35 yr aged Hindi, has the waxy quality I love, impressive sillage and projection on skin, quite woody in the dry down
Al Hashimi Special Reserve No. 1 - previously favored SR2 more, but now SR1 feels like the animalics have meddled with Al Hind II with incredible results! I guess what I have now is a discontinued bottle, but honestly very little goes a long way!
Ajmal Dahn Al Oud Amiri - not barny enough for me, but needs more wearings
Sokkat AlTeeb Ghaliyah Saudia - adore this at every stage, shocking longevity and transformation throughout!
Sulaym Dusk Musk - last but certainly not least! Monstrously longevity on this, with florals always complimenting the musk, never overshadowing it. The scent almost stains your skin, not letting go, nor backing down! Powerful in a unique way, yet again didn't even need to remove the stopper to get all I needed for a wearing!
Attar Mohd. Ayub & Co. Malikee SSS - 35 yr aged Hindi, has the waxy quality I love, impressive sillage and projection on skin, quite woody in the dry down
Al Hashimi Special Reserve No. 1 - previously favored SR2 more, but now SR1 feels like the animalics have meddled with Al Hind II with incredible results! I guess what I have now is a discontinued bottle, but honestly very little goes a long way!
Ajmal Dahn Al Oud Amiri - not barny enough for me, but needs more wearings
Sokkat AlTeeb Ghaliyah Saudia - adore this at every stage, shocking longevity and transformation throughout!
Sulaym Dusk Musk - last but certainly not least! Monstrously longevity on this, with florals always complimenting the musk, never overshadowing it. The scent almost stains your skin, not letting go, nor backing down! Powerful in a unique way, yet again didn't even need to remove the stopper to get all I needed for a wearing!
Olfactory Nomad
Smells so Oud
I have a sample of this as well and it's the only Rhu Khus I've really smelled before. Amazing stuff. What could I pair it with? Would it go into my bit of everything blend of mysore, musk, oud etc?
Was feeling very sexy last night so of course to make up the full picture I wore some Soroor from MesOud. Grrrr, sexy lol.
Ahmaoud
True Ouddict
Bilquis II
That being said, be careful, I heard it's able to overtake rose in less than a 1:5 ratio. What makes it a difficult ingredient in blends are the top notes, which usually aren't there for long, getting amplified. Speaking of which, I just remembered I have some Neroli oil from Habz hmmmmm.
*After going down a rabbit hole*
I started thinking to myself, I have no experience of this, I'm just parroting stuff I've heard, so I used a commonly shared proportion (PerfumeGuru shared on his Hindi channel) of 70% Ruh Khus Ateeq to 30% NTT Batch 3 Sandalwood, and just the whispers of Jasmine Sambac Absolute I got from mesoud. At this point, it already smelled incredible, like my face was pressed into a handful of fresh Jasmine flowers, highlighting their green stems, I was over the moon. I then wanted something sparkly on the top so I went in with two drops of this Hojari oil I got from TheOudLab, which is like an explosion of Frankincense. So far I'm getting a fairly clunky composition which starts off like minty spinach but then go down to a sweet floral heart, and then to a buttery sandalwood. I'm really digging it, but we'll see how this turns out, I know these blends can take some pretty insane turns, but I also know top notes dominate when the mixture is fresh and I'm hoping the floral absolute will be enough, I think it should be, only time will tell.
All this got me thinking of other florals like Ruh Kadam and Ruh Parajit, and how they'd work in place of the Jasmine
Olfactory Nomad
Smells so Oud
My God that Ruh Khus is incredible! I need more of that immediately. Is Ruh Khus different from other aged vetivers somehow? If so what is that difference?
Mr.P
oud<3er
It is distilled from wild plants that reproduce by seed. Other vetiver is produced from plants that are all basically clones of one another grown in a monoculture
Mousse de Chene
True Ouddict
I haven’t sampled that particular oil, but I own 2.5g of An Najwa’s ‘Ward Imperiale 2023’ & it’s the most sublime Rose oil in my collection, Ruh Gulab at its finest.
The adjective I always use to describe it is ‘crystalline’. It has the most heavenly pink rosy / minty citrus purity. Such a clean, sheer, sparkling, luminous aroma, yet voluminous in the way it progresses on skin, retaining it’s lush blooming floral character, when other Ruh Gulab’s I’ve sampled can become thin after 15-30 mins on skin. Ward Imperiale exhibits zero off notes, no green harshness, overt spiciness, stemmy or copper inflections. It’s magnificent!
A little swipe of Ward Imperiale dabbed onto my beard gives me serval hours of pitch perfect Rosy goodness, however my preferred method of application is a 5 or 6 big drops splashed onto my face, beard, hair & shirt. I wear it like a perfume & it’s stays with me most of the day.
Ashfaque
Jonoon al Oud
Ame Sombre (Sultan Pasha Attars): This 2014 Sultan Pasha composition is still my most worn perfume since 2017. It was one of the first attars I tried from Sultan. I am still enjoying that rabbit hole! I cannot help but compare every modern composition against his. In cooler weather AS displays it's finer nuances lot better and slowly. I posted a review on my very sparse blog many moons ago! https://olfactivedreams.blogspot.com/2019/05/ame-sombre-sultan-pasha-attars-review.html
Mousse de Chene
True Ouddict
That was a wonderful read my friend, I also love Saffron, it’s the most beautiful spice note, so complex with its spicy, floral, leathery aroma. Simultaneously dark & bright. A very cleansing pure aroma.
The best Saffron attar I’ve ever smelt is an unreleased one by An Najwa called ‘Khorasan’, a simple yet beautiful blend of high grade Saffron & Mysore, with hints of Rose & Musk. I love it because the Saffron is overdosed & allowed to shine in its full glory.
Good to see Ame Sombre is still available, after your excellent review I’m very tempted to purchase at least 1g for testing.
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Mr.P
oud<3er
@An Najwa 's Ghaliya Banu Hashim 2 is fan-freaking-tastic. Absolutely in the spirit of the original and seemingly even more richly imbued with oud and musk. I believe that what I'm experiencing is a beautiful richness due to a perfect balance of musk and ambergris hindi oud (?) along with really restrained floral and fruity elements, and a tad of camphor that I am able to tune into a little more clearly in this batch. The oud seems like it has a bit more bite in v2 as well and I love that. Gooooooood stuff!!!!
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Mousse de Chene
True Ouddict
That is excellent news v2 is faithful to the original’s quality. I’m happy that folks who missed out on the first batch can be happy with v2. It’s one of the best attars in my collection. Over the last year, it’s developed so nicely, the Musk & Ambergris have continued to macerate, upon first receiving it I didn’t think it was possible for the composition to be anymore more beautiful, but one year later here we are!
Arabiad07
True Ouddict
It’s released?
Mr.P
oud<3er
Yeah this stuff is spot on it shows the craftsmanship in the original and it seems like it clearly shows the thought that was put into the careful modifications.
I got a small sample along with a recent order I don't believe it's released yet.
Ahmaoud
True Ouddict
Tried this again this morning, in fact probably spent too much time with it, the minty spinach like notes became smoother but I felt like the blend was heavily in need of something sweet or resinous, it felt like there was a wheel missing. I contemplated adding rose or neroli but then I'd need to add something extra to it, I could have used my use Ta'ifi Musk maceration, but ultimately I didn't want that to overshadow the current profile. The original recipe recommended Oud but specifically Hindi oud, and I didn't think I wanted to go down this route, I already have a Hindi Oud/Ruh Khus dominant attar which I have yet to wear more, Hejaz from An Najwa.Bilquis II
That being said, be careful, I heard it's able to overtake rose in less than a 1:5 ratio. What makes it a difficult ingredient in blends are the top notes, which usually aren't there for long, getting amplified. Speaking of which, I just remembered I have some Neroli oil from Habz hmmmmm.
*After going down a rabbit hole*
I started thinking to myself, I have no experience of this, I'm just parroting stuff I've heard, so I used a commonly shared proportion (PerfumeGuru shared on his Hindi channel) of 70% Ruh Khus Ateeq to 30% NTT Batch 3 Sandalwood, and just the whispers of Jasmine Sambac Absolute I got from mesoud. At this point, it already smelled incredible, like my face was pressed into a handful of fresh Jasmine flowers, highlighting their green stems, I was over the moon. I then wanted something sparkly on the top so I went in with two drops of this Hojari oil I got from TheOudLab, which is like an explosion of Frankincense. So far I'm getting a fairly clunky composition which starts off like minty spinach but then go down to a sweet floral heart, and then to a buttery sandalwood. I'm really digging it, but we'll see how this turns out, I know these blends can take some pretty insane turns, but I also know top notes dominate when the mixture is fresh and I'm hoping the floral absolute will be enough, I think it should be, only time will tell.
All this got me thinking of other florals like Ruh Kadam and Ruh Parajit, and how they'd work in place of the Jasmine
I started thinking about this beautiful oud I recently acquired, دهن كنز الغابة القديمة (Ancient Forest Treasure Oil) from Sokkat Al Teeb, from their mesdar collection. It's not available anymore, but even when it was being sold, I couldn't figure out which region or style of Indonesian oud it was, the ad on YouTube and the description made it sound more like a Maroke oil, but apparently it was aged for a decade so I took the gamble. It turned out to be a Borneo oil but not the slightly smoky dark colored oils, instead it was the sunshine warming up a tropical jungle sort of oil, with vibrant green notes with oceanic breezes, my favorite type! As soon as I got it, I was taken by the mentholic top it possessed, and starting from the mid, it features notes of petrichor and jungle rain evaporating off vegetation, so it got me thinking about Ruh Khus in a strange way. Where it differed was the sweetness, coupled with what sometimes people describe as a hamster cage wood shavings note, though even with that association this oil's a beauty.
So I added 6 dots of this to the earlier mentioned blend, and right away it felt more complete. In the top the Hojari oil was backed up by the top notes of the Oud, and this already strong blend got even stronger. The previous profile was successfully sweetened, without vanishing. I recall Ahom World offered this blend called Emerald back in the day and it was a mostly Ruh Khus and Green Saba oil, it was an affordable blend but there's truly something about these ingredients that works well together. Longevity is still pretty good, but now I'll let this rest and assess it again in two weeks. I'll still wear it now and then, I might have worn some right now, but I'm covered in Hindi Ouds at the moment.
Mousse de Chene
True Ouddict
Sounds amazing brother. I love the creativity, you sound so inspired!
I’d like to begin creating my own blends one day soon. I’ve conducted little experiments, but nothing serious aside from my Musk macerations.
Btw how good is that Hojari oil - The Oud Lab?! I received 2.5g as a gift with a Oud purchase a while ago & it’s quite possibly the freshness, most invigorating aroma I’ve ever smelt! One of my experiments was blending some with Taif Rose.
An Najwa
Resident Artisan
Thanks for sharing your experience Mr. P
The sampler I sent you was without musk and ambergris
I was yet to add them when i sent you
Ahmaoud
True Ouddict
Mostly because I'm working off a publicly available recipe, very little inspiration has gone into this. These blends are like playing with fire, they'll change weeks down the line and you'll have no idea what went wrong, that's why I normally refrain from compositions of my own. Though the major ingredients here will work well together, even if the additional items get overshadowed by them. I only made a quarter tola, and have much more of all the ingredients I used, limiting the risk of ruining something very precious! Apparently diluting different floral "Ruhs" in sandalwood oil is a common practice to make them wearable.
That's exactly how I got my bottle! The scent was so strong it was coming out of the box, and I couldn't agree more, it's as refreshing as an oil can be without being aggressive. Each sniff is like a jolt of wakefulness. I think it would work really well with Taif Rose, though it's not something I'll be trying. Taif has enough strength that I'm trying to bring it down a peg, rather than make it stronger. How did it end up turning out?
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