Ketaki (Lucky Oud, 2024)
It is a quick impression after 4 wearings and a flue. So please bear with me. Though Ketaki is about kewda, it is more than that. Here again, Rafi Ahmed Baig (the perfumer) has displayed his love for the verdant and white and yellow florals.
Ketaki begins with a warm, fuzzy, sweet, and slightly ambery and woody note of kewra - an oft used materials in many foods, ayurvedic medicines of our Subcontinent and in some traditional Kannauj attars. In case you are wondering, kewra otto's inherent sweetness and various angular ambery and woody facets are aptly restrained here so that the florals and various woody and balsamic notes can show their beauties. In the first few minutes, the fuzzy warmth and a vetiver- and angelica root-like rootiness (i.e., their top notes) occasionally gives me a ginger lily root impression. The cristaline verdant quality of galbanum, neroli, possibly some cedarmoss and oakmoss gives the composition a dark green chypre structure with a floral amber heart.
Once the initial fizzy and ambery kewra, herbaceous green and spicy head dissipates, I'm greeted with a big dollop of white and yellow florals. Here the indole intensity lies between his other two green floral compositions that I adore - i.e., more and less than in Peepul and Hana, respectively. So far, I noticed creamy facets of yalng yalng, neroli, J. sambac, tuberose, gardenia, stocks. Jasmine and tuberose comes across like a green variant, which is perfect when you want to highlight the verdant qualities in a floral compo.
As hinted before, various verdant materials and notes play important roles in this composition. Sappy, herbaceous, bitter and slightly sweet-smelling galbanum is quite evident throughout. Not sure if this one has any aged patchouli in it but I get a similar spicy and herbaceous ambery smell with green inflections. It could also be coming from a combination of kewra, galbanum, cedar/oakmoss, top-heart notes of Himalayan cedar, ginger, ginger root, crushed rose stems & leaves, vetiver and greenish oud. The green accord comes across like a canvas on which various florals, balsams and resins - evoking an olfactory impression of contrasts and compliments.
Various florals impart a warm and dry hug - almost as if I am sitting near a fireplace on a cold evening and someone just left a bouquet of fresh tuberose, ylang ylang, jasmine, tiara, gardenia, plumeria, ginger lily root, one of slightly animalic and ambery lilies (can’t recall the species). Some of the astringent facets sometimes smell like the top-heart notes of chamomile, fresh marigold, violet leaf, elemi, tea (either green or black, still unsure) – they tend to hover between creamy and ambery floral and initial dark green facets.
After 3 hours, the overall green profile of Ketaki and it’s creamy florals’ intensities reduced enough that I can clearly detect the woody, balsamic and ambery notes of sandalwood, Himalayan cedar, benzoin, vanilla, benzoin, beeswax, Spanish hay and possibly tonka, labdanum, opoponax. Around 3.5 hours, I noticed a supple leather. This, and the aforementioned subtly sweet haying balsamic note reminds me of trails of some Assam belt oils (devoid of any animalic or pungent qualities). On the other hand, that leather in the presence of ever changing greenish accord sometimes nods towards Indo-Malay oils. My nose is still a bit down from a recent bout of flue. But assuming I’m not far off (i.e., oud is not very prominent), it is another example of elegant use of oud as a supporting note.
We rarely see green floral compositions done in classical ways with such a singular focus and elegance. Very few living perfumers’ green floral compositions convinced me. I can only think of Chypre Narcisse, Chypre Chrysantheme, Le Rayon Vert (by Sultan Pasha), Green Madness, Revenge and one more I can't recall the name of (by Anna Zworykina), SOMA (Johanna Venables of NOT Perfumes) and to some extent Rauque (by Christopher Sheldrake for Roberto Greco) that spoke to me. Apologies as I'm sure I've missed a few. If you like his style of white and yellow florals with a verdant bent, and you adore green floral compositions with a soft balsamic and woody trail, peppered with some green morsels, Ketaki is worth sampling. Ma-sha-Allah.