It is pretty rare I get the chance to give the first impression on an oud oil release, I'm usually last get to things, so I couldn't resist a review of Safwaan which I've had a decent head start on.
'Aasifah - Al Shareef Oudh
Mid to high barnyard, this one opens with an acidic sourness, and a strong horse stable aroma. As the acidity subsides, I start getting some toasted oak to go along with the barn, and pretty soon the fragrance starts to sweeten with fleshy apricot. I then get a little bit of the sub-sweetness of decaying apple, and the apricot sweetens even more into a dry apricot aroma. In the heart notes, I begin to get some pine sap and this is where the magic starts to happen. There's a phase in the scent evolution which smells exactly like the woods in Latvia. I was there in June, walking beside a forest just after some rainfall, and I just started sniffing the air and telling my wife that this smelt exactly like oud! I regret not sniffing every square inch in the area, but people were already looking at me oddly as I sniffed the air, and there was a train to be caught... If I run into that scent again, I'll go down on hands and knees if I have to, and let people look at me as weirdly as they wish. There's something very alive and tactile to that scent, it is pine yes, but it's also the denseness of the air, the wetness of the earth, the light rot of wilted leaves brought back to life by the rain. Of course, I love this part of the scent, but as with all good things it is fleeting. Eventually the earlier toasted oak gives way to some vanilla and a bit of smoke, the last part comes with a honeyed woodiness, and finally sweet hay.
'Aasifah is strong with good projection.
Safwaan - Al Shareef Oudh
Barn lovers rejoice! This is one of the heaviest barns I've encountered. I'll quote my wife who sat a little too close one day when I was applying: "It smells like the whole zoo!" (she is not a fan of the barn). This one opens with a dank monkey cage aroma, ripe with fecal tones, alongside the heavy smell of snake skin. I've not felt a snake association since Shwe Myitkyina (AA), but whereas Shwe had a subtle refined snake leather aura to it, this one feels like you have a snake shedding its skin onto yours; there is something very primal to the opening of Safwaan. As the raw dankness subsides I get some heavy smoke, and a slowly emerging sweetness of nectarines and plum skins, also the snake skin is slowly tamed to leather. And when I say sweetness, I mean multitudes less compared to 'Aasifah's apricot clarity. In the mid phase there is an unexpected mentholated camphor vein which slowly pushes the aroma back to my Latvian woods association, but the evolution is slower than 'Aasifah (this only happens in hour 5 or 6) and this is a mossier wood with animalic tones still present. As Safwaan dries down, I get a nice oudiness, reminiscent of a Cambodian heart, with a mixture of blossom honey, prunes, dry bark and dry leaves. And if you wait long enough at the end there is also sometimes a wisp of iris.
Safwaan is strong, especially in the zoo topnotes, but surprisingly, 'Aasifah is stronger.
I keep oscillating between which one I prefer,
I prefer Safwaan's drydown,
I love 'Aasifah's ability to take me back to the edge of the Latvian forest,
when I'm in the right mood, the primal snake of Safwaan is intoxicating,
but when I am not up to the barn, the wait to get to the second peak of Safwaan is just too long...
I'm also often conflicted when captivated by a Hindi,
realising that what captivates me, is most likely a secondary aroma to oud,
and isn't there a more direct and cheaper route to those secondary aromas?