Pachoulis -- recommendations wanted

[MaxFromHolland]

Youre right, 4y11mo calculator says.
Keeping the tiny barrel submerged in a larger bucket of water 🤔?
Put a lid on, refresh every 6mo while sampling the patch?

Nah the water would rot and ruin the patch. However, take a bucket put a grid on legs on the bottom, wet sponge under the grid and barrel on top, air tight lid and monitor the moisture with Arduino triggering an amtrack horn from ebay when it gets below 80% should to the trick and keep the neighbourhood amused!

Edit: a 72% boveda pack used for cigar humiditors is better than wet sponge with may make it to humid causing mold. Costs around 30 dollar i think and can be recharged if it runs dry despite the closed bucket.

So yeah airtight bucket 🙂

 

[roflwaffle]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/395999163088

Apparently oak bottles exist too
To lazy to find a better link 😇

Oh dang! No new ideas in this world I guess. But sweet that it exists! Thanks!

 

[MaxFromHolland]

Nah the water would rot and ruin the patch. However, take a bucket put a grid on legs on the bottom, wet sponge under the grid and barrel on top, air tight lid and monitor the moisture with Arduino triggering an amtrack horn from ebay when it gets below 80% should to the trick and keep the neighbourhood amused!

Edit: a 72% boveda pack used for cigar humiditors is better than wet sponge with may make it to humid causing mold. Costs around 30 dollar i think and can be recharged if it runs dry despite the closed bucket.

So yeah airtight bucket 🙂

Edited this post like 3-4 times

 

[roflwaffle]

: a 72% boveda pack used for cigar humiditors is better than wet sponge with may make it to humid causing mold. Costs around 30 dollar i think and can be recharged if it runs dry despite the closed bucket.

So yeah airtight bucket 🙂

This is the sanest/best method so far. Still enough oxygen for o2 ingress, and it's in a bucket so if it does fail/leak, doesn't make a mess at least. Burp it annually when I change out boveda or take samples

Edit: well sanest might be glass with charred stave and burping/air transfer, but that's less artisanal sounding 😂

 

[MaxFromHolland]

This is the sanest method so far. Still enough oxygen for o2 ingress, and it's in a bucket so if it does fail/leak, doesn't make a mess at least. Burp it annually when I change out boveda or take samples

Edit: well sanest might be glass with charred stave and burping/air transfer, but that's less artisanal sounding 😂

One has to keep tradition alive (says the bloke with oak chips in amber bottles). No messing with beeswax either.
Obviously combined, if you were to find a glass 'bucket' with airtight lid and put the whole contraption on display in your livingroom, we will have to contact the ouddict admin to grand you the title Master of oils.

 

[MaxFromHolland]

One has to keep tradition alive (says the bloke with oak chips in amber bottles). No messing with beeswax either.
Obviously combined, if you were to find a glass 'bucket' with airtight lid and put the whole contraption on display in your livingroom, we will have to contact the ouddict admin to grand you the title Master of oils.

Last hurdle to take for you is to find sn appropriate burb sound for your calendar to remind you attention is due. (And find suitable patch) ((And drink your way to 750ml of rum 😖 so you can get started))

 

[roflwaffle]

if you were to find a glass 'bucket' with airtight lid and put the whole contraption on display in your livingroom, we will have to contact the ouddict admin to grand you the title Master of oils.

I shall hold you to this. Especially after the step below causes it to manifest into reality!

(And drink your way to 750ml of rum 😖 so you can get started

I call this step the 'ideation phase', and it's a critical part to ensuring success.. or at least making the failure more amusing.

 

[Eleusis]

There is oak spiral to increase contact surface.
Ex : https://craftabrew.com/products/amburana-infusion-spirals-light-toast

So you can first use it dirrectly in duran scott bottle to oak it to your taste. And then slightly open the cap till it is oxydated enough.
It's not as sexy as a patch barrel but it can be the easy way and that way you can separate both parameter ( O2 and wood).

 

[Shiningrobes]

There is oak spiral to increase contact surface.
Ex : https://craftabrew.com/products/amburana-infusion-spirals-light-toast

So you can first use it dirrectly in duran scott bottle to oak it to your taste. And then slightly open the cap till it is oxydated enough.
It's not as sexy as a patch barrel but it can be the easy way and that way you can separate both parameter ( O2 and wood).

That right there. I knew there had to be something in the home distillery world for this very thing.

 

[Mr.P]

That right there. I knew there had to be something in the home distillery world for this very thing.

there is some overlap between the world of oud and the world of other vices like cannabis and alcohol 😉

 

[Shiningrobes]

there is some overlap between the world of oud and the world of other vices like cannabis and alcohol 😉

The addictive part not least.

 

[Mr.P]

The addictive part not least.

for sure! I was also thinking of how the glass atelier had repurposed a cannabis vaporization rig for his smoke infusion/vapor infusion process. Distillation and fermentation and careful aging when it comes to making spirits, creative extraction and vaporization when it comes to cannabis… Each of these industries can inform the others pretty strongly I would think!

 

[roflwaffle]

There is oak spiral to increase contact surface.
Ex : https://craftabrew.com/products/amburana-infusion-spirals-light-toast

So you can first use it dirrectly in duran scott bottle to oak it to your taste. And then slightly open the cap till it is oxydated enough.
It's not as sexy as a patch barrel but it can be the easy way and that way you can separate both parameter ( O2 and wood).

Yep, that is an option! It is a bit funny they state "Oak Infusion Spirals should NOT be reused! All of the oak flavor will be extracted after one use, and won't add flavor to future fermentations. "

When once used barrels has a huge history in wine and spirits aging, sometimes the point is subtle.

I'm still going to play with the barrel idea though. Might be fun to do an A/B test though. The 'classic' way (barrel) and the 'modern' way (glass and specialty products). Could do the specialty version in much smaller qty to match s/v ratio close to remove the variable

 

[roflwaffle]

Ok.. riddle me this as I'm a bit stumped.

Past month I've run a forced oxidation test. Basically open air patches. Yea, not great/realistic for aging, but the results have been surprising. My understanding was dark patches (iron still) plus o2 = increased viscosity and darker color.

But I have 2 patches one 10 yr old, one 2025, both dark indonesian. The young one gained both viscosity and went darker. The older one gained a bit of viscosity, but color didn't change at all? And this was (stainless) barrel stored and only recently bottled.

My only theory is over time the iron titrates and settles to bottom so iron content in my bottle is low? Or, it wasn't a dark patch at all? Or, once it's aged anerobic, chemical reactions happen such that darkening doesn't readily occur any longer? Any other theories?

It'd be super curious if the iron settled, and have implications for aging, but I'm not sure how else to explain it?

@Mr.P I seem to recall you've mentioned that some of your ancient patches have darkened/turned to molasses, others have not. Any thought to why or commonalities?

 

[Mr.P]

Ok.. riddle me this as I'm a bit stumped.

Past month I've run a forced oxidation test. Basically open air patches. Yea, not great/realistic for aging, but the results have been surprising. My understanding was dark patches (iron still) plus o2 = increased viscosity and darker color.

But I have 2 patches one 10 yr old, one 2025, both dark indonesian. The young one gained both viscosity and went darker. The older one gained a bit of viscosity, but color didn't change at all? And this was (stainless) barrel stored and only recently bottled.

My only theory is over time the iron titrates and settles to bottom so iron content in my bottle is low? Or, it wasn't a dark patch at all? Or, once it's aged anerobic, chemical reactions happen such that darkening doesn't readily occur any longer? Any other theories?

It'd be super curious if the iron settled, and have implications for aging, but I'm not sure how else to explain it?

@Mr.P I seem to recall you've mentioned that some of your ancient patches have darkened/turned to molasses, others have not. Any thought to why or commonalities?

Yes, I have some ancient oils so to speak and some are completely fluid and watery while others are almost like rosin. Without fail the solid ones are very dark but what I don't recall is how dark they were when I got them because they were in dark bottles and I had no idea about the significance of such things in those days. When I think it through, I can't say that I have observed any single patchouli oil actually darkening with time, just thickening.

Without fail though, the watery ones are paler - I don't think I have a single very dark one that isn't also thick and coincidence or not the most watery are also the most pale

 

[roflwaffle]

I had no idea about the significance of such things.

for color, there's no real significance to it. Viscosity is likely similar, scent should be the only thing that matters, and the scent difference between my darkened/thickened and its original unoxidized is minimal or nil.

However, as with oud, general perception is that thicker/darker=betterer, even when logic and reality disagree, hence why we see a lot of forced thickening heatlamp nonsense with ouds beyond whats needed to remove last bit of water. So it is something i ponder over.

Running a sanity check here... raw iron slug in a new aliquot of the aged patch... to just see if iron alone will darken it. i... would be surprised if this does anything, but i'm not sure what else would really explain the stark difference in color

 

[MaxFromHolland]

Ok.. riddle me this as I'm a bit stumped.

Past month I've run a forced oxidation test. Basically open air patches. Yea, not great/realistic for aging, but the results have been surprising. My understanding was dark patches (iron still) plus o2 = increased viscosity and darker color.

But I have 2 patches one 10 yr old, one 2025, both dark indonesian. The young one gained both viscosity and went darker. The older one gained a bit of viscosity, but color didn't change at all? And this was (stainless) barrel stored and only recently bottled.

My only theory is over time the iron titrates and settles to bottom so iron content in my bottle is low? Or, it wasn't a dark patch at all? Or, once it's aged anerobic, chemical reactions happen such that darkening doesn't readily occur any longer? Any other theories?

It'd be super curious if the iron settled, and have implications for aging, but I'm not sure how else to explain it?

@Mr.P I seem to recall you've mentioned that some of your ancient patches have darkened/turned to molasses, others have not. Any thought to why or commonalities?

Wouldn't the old one have become chemical stable over the years and therefore care less about being exposed to air in your experiment, other than normal evaporation?

 

[roflwaffle]

Wouldn't the old one have become chemical stable over the years and therefore care less about being exposed to air in your experiment, other than normal evaporation?

Hm. Possibly, but why didn't it darken over that time? Presumably same reactions would have taken place, slowly

 

[roflwaffle]

if you were to find a glass 'bucket' with airtight lid and put the whole contraption on display in your livingroom, we will have to contact the ouddict admin to grand you the title Master of oils.

tada!

 

[Mr.P]

View attachment 56086
tada!

I like the looks of that tiny oak (?)barrel!