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[Ouddict.com] Attar/Mukhallat of the Day
 
Revisiting the Camden Gray oils. Their Egyptian jasmine absolute is really quite nice - a well balanced jasmine oil without any off notes.
 
And today it is “patchouli fraction b” on one wrist, and “atlas cedar heart” on the other. both from Robertet. The patchouli makes me happy — nice smooth and enticing patchouli scent that transforms nicely as it settles. The atlas cedar seems like it would make a great basis for a fragrance - very rich woody scent. I believe I have smelled traces of this in more than a couple of “sandalwood oils” I have been shown over the years.
 
And today it is “patchouli fraction b” on one wrist, and “atlas cedar heart” on the other. both from Robertet. The patchouli makes me happy — nice smooth and enticing patchouli scent that transforms nicely as it settles. The atlas cedar seems like it would make a great basis for a fragrance - very rich woody scent. I believe I have smelled traces of this in more than a couple of “sandalwood oils” I have been shown over the years.

I really like this patchouli, thanks. Used some last night. I can see why you like it with the l-muscone, I get an 'ultraviolet aurora' high note from both of them, and the blend is seamless. I prefer more 'dirty' patchoulis when wearing it alone but I think this one will be invaluable for blends.
 
I know what you mean about dirty patchouli and I have to agree. I like this for the way it settles and merges with other fragrances. I also got some patchouli crystals (natural isolate not synthetic). This is an even more abstracted representation of patchouli but if you are a patchouli lover you should check that stuff out because it is very interesting. I feel like there is some potential in a patchouli, borneol, muscone blend.
 
That was supposed to say “patchoulOL crystals” which is a single (?) molecule purified from patchouli. I put a question mark because some natural isolates like vetiverol are not actually a single pure substance even though the name vetiverol implies it. It is actually a purified / refined mixture that is maybe very high in vetiverol but also contains other related molecules. Not sure what the case is with patchoulOL (aka patchouli alcohol).
 
This morning I am trying patchouli heart SFE from Firmenich). This is a co2 extract. Nice heavy patchouli oil - I’m not sure if it is outstanding in any way but it is a nice tangy herbal earthy note as expected.

patchouli is so dense and complex and the same oil will smell a bit different depending on the time of day, maybe humidity, how much oil is applied and whether it is a dot or a smear… I find patchouli very hard to judge because of this. A single sample may seem ordinary one day, sublime the next.
 
I think I’ve had something of a realization as far as a couple of Etro fragrances go. Not a fan of commercial perfume, but the Etro sandalwood and patchouli both are exceptions. I have a bottle of the sandalwood but am not a guy who is comfortable spending a huge amount on fragrance and I’ve never been able to get myself to drop $200 on a bottle of Etro patchouli (in part because I know these mainstream fragrances are all alcohol and cost maybe $0.10 per bottle to fill) even though I loved that perfume the first time I smelled it

Getting to the point - I believe part of the Etro “signature” scent is L-muscone. I haven’t smelled a bottle of the Etro patchouli in a long time but layered patchouli and muscone is very reminiscent of the scent I recall. I also smell a similar musk element in their sandalwood perfume.

Anyway, once again I’m here bringing up a synthetic, which feels weird because I have gone so far to avoid synthetic fragrances. The only other synthetic I have messed with is ambroxan. I have a bottle of ambroxan powder and at one point I was trying it in blends. Not so crazy about ambroxan however.

Just tried the Etro Patchouly EdT. I see what you mean about the l-muscone, the musk is quite bold in this. Maybe there are a couple of different musks here. This is obviously quite synthetic but in a nice way similar to how I enjoy fruit candy even though it's not real fruit. It's seamless and well structured with no harsh fixatives, and the patchouli is very good, strongly countering the more synthetic elements. Last time I tried commercial perfume it was Dior Ambre Nuit which stuck to my furniture and was quite nauseating, but the Etro is very clean.
 
Glad to hear it, it has been well over a decade since I smelled that fragrance. Glad my memory was not too far off. I’ve been enjoying the sandalo
 
Early morning swipe - Halfeti (black rose) rose absolute neat. One of the best rose extracts I have sampled and bought in the last 3 years. It is smoky, imagine a combination of the top notes of freshly dark roasted coffee beans and cocoa absolute, incensy, deep red/green fume, a peek-a-boo hay (coumarin), jammy and fruity rose (like typical Rosa damascena absolutes) and honey (so far). I can already see myself layering it with incensy oils from Hind, Laos, and Indo-Malay regions - and doing some experimental compositions to satisfy my curiosities!
 
Can you share where you find black rose absolute?
 
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