Attar/Mukhallat of the Day

[Al Shareef Oudh]

The best Ward taifi on the market, that's a challenge. Congealed at 4-6 C

This is the perfect colour. The oil collected from a single run.

If an oil is very yellow it isn't a good sign, and very green isn't a good sign.

 

[Al Shareef Oudh]

Left Afghani rose oil from Nangarhar Provence photo taken 2 days ago in Kabul, temp 5. On the right is the Afghani Neroli from Nangarhar Provence.

Like anywhere else, there are a lot of fakes flying around, especially in neighbouring countries.

 

[Mr.P]

crazy - has to go all the way down to 4°C to congeal!

 

[Mr.P]

These are not fragrances for sale, but the start of a didactic collection for doing presentations on distillation and blending (which I am doing today at the local market). I put together a bunch of scents that represent some of the main ingredients i would choose for my fragrances… each is a single ingredient or a simple blend of ingredients.

 

[Al Shareef Oudh]

“I would recommend you revisit the Iranian oil again.”

Done! You don’t have to say that twice! 😉

Now what I want to know is why does the Bulgarian gel but not the others? If the taif is a simple distillation with no stearoptene separation going on, maybe the climate or variety of rose is what is responsible for the lower amount of stearoptene?

To answer your question, unlike other places the Bulgarian rose valley is cold and wet. Other places are one or the other, not both. Secondly the Bulgarian rose is distilled under pressure and higher temperatures, the steam is 105 Celcius. I believe more so than the growing conditions the distillation temperature and pressure is what leads to the presence of higher stearopten and waxes.

 

[FreeSoul]

Ruh Morga from An Najwa. This is lovely and I think is able to be used like an attar. I get a delicate floral petal with this lovely juicy fruity note.nicely balanced. Has been a joy to wear today!

 

[Mr.P]

I love that Jasmine. Very nice balanced sambac aroma with no odd perfumey notes.

 

[FreeSoul]

Fareed from Mesoud. great name for it as this is definitely a unique smell in the way the ingredients have been combined in a very balanced way as to almost make its own note. If I had to try and pick notes out, a bit fruit, floral, soft smooth wood and a little herb and spice. very nice!

 

[Mr.P]

I’m making a tincture of sinking cultivated kinam shavings I got from maunamoku. The last tincture I prepared was from white shavings, so I’m very curious to see how the sinking wood will perform. Tincturing it right in the bottle it came in. 🙂

FYI, these bottles are not watertight, so this just will have to sit upright. Sealed enough to prevent evaporation, but you wouldn’t want to put it on its side

 

[Bonjt]

I have on myself now mukhallat from Ahom-Cigaroud. Nice blend of 2 oud oils and tobacco absolute. Its nice, warm, tobacco have very little mentholy vibe, its fruity, no so sweet and resinous.

 

[Bonjt]

I have on myself now mukhallat from Ahom-Cigaroud. Nice blend of 2 oud oils and tobacco absolute. Its nice, warm, tobacco have very little mentholy vibe, its fruity, no so sweet and resinous.

Update: today i arrived home and i spoke with my mom whats new. She showed me that she ordered some oud perfume, some kind of arrabic oud lotion, not expensive one, she started to be interested in this kind of scents and she was learning about it, what does that oud mean. So i showed her, that I ordered too my first kind of oud oil. She tested Oudcigar and she really liked it, that it smells like really old barn. Its funny that we came to this direction at same time separately 😄

 

[Mr.P]

Anyone here remember this company? They had some really good stuff back in the 90s. This bottle of patchouli is probably from 1993 or 1994. it has intermediate thickness. It’s kind of syrupy, but not like honey. The scent has a distinct fuzziness at first - warm fuzzy and pretty smooth backed by wine-like notes and a slight tang,
dry woodiness. I also got lovely floral overtone when i reapplied - very much fit in with the oil, but not some thing I have experienced in this sense with patchouly so it may have been an interaction with something else on my skin.

I have been evaluating various patchouli oil types (distillate, iron free distillate, molecular distillate, co2, absolute, and patchoulol isolate) over the last few months and I find this material very hard to evaluate unless diluted and on a blotter, because it unfolds so slowly, and it is so complex and the various notes can be quite intense and mask one another at different stages. I’ve been trying to compare them neat and on skin and i can sort them into a few category types, but I find it to be pretty challenging and with something like patchouli (in the US at least) you’ve got to get it right because many of people have issues with patchouly for various reasons.

Many types: herbal-pungent, wine-like, tangy, musty, dry leafy, sweet and smooth, peppery, all kinds of different intensities…. What a fantastic substance.

 

[oudstronaut]

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[Mr.P]

Today i compared rose absolute oils on blotter paper - turkish from Robertet, Bulgarian from Alteya, and another random older turkish absolute that i love from a different (no longer available) source. I honestly didn’t know what to expect, but the Bulgarian in this particular case was obviously more pleasant, clean, fresh smelling and lifelike - it was quite remarkable not at all what I expected.

I thought that the Robertet would have the most appeal, and that the three oils would be similar and challenging to rank - but it was quite the opposite. The Alteya Bulgarian material was just so exceptional: lifelike, balanced, appealing. My daughter who has relatively less experience with Rose oil also for a quickly picked out the Bulgarian as the most appealing specimen. Part of the reason for the surprise is that I have really enjoyed the Robertet turkish and the other absolute when i have used them. This is 2022 crop i’m going to remix a couple of blends using this instead of the Turkish, and see what the result is.

 

[FreeSoul]

Ghaliya Banu Hashim from An Najwa. Such a beautiful scent that will keep you smelling it. Love the way the musk grains are kept in maximising this very precious ingredient. This one will age nicely but will be hard to leave alone!

 

[Mr.P]

I put a swipe of this on in the morning and I was distracted all day! It kept sneaking into my perception of fragrances that I was making, as I mentioned before, and I was starting to think I was a pretty bad ass perfumer, which it smells like I would be if I could mix a little bit of this into everything that I make lol because it was literally making radically different blends smell considerably better. I would not go on and on about this one if I didn’t feel strongly about the quality. I have very little experience with this specific type of blend, this one is very engaging.

 

[Ofaruk]

@Scentlover98 Emre you did a wonderful job conveying not only the scent but also the sensibility of Deep Black. When I wore it for the first time, I just knew I loved it, and when I love a scent, it becomes very hard, not only to find issues with it, but also aspects not everyone might enjoy. My objectivity is completely overshadowed by the emotional connection the scent has rooted within me.

I also wanted to mention this when you wrote about Fareed, I've never been to the mountains (outside of the Hejaz I suppose) but while smelling Fareed I was totally envisioning a Shepherd taking his sheep or goats to pasture, on a lush hillside, I don't think that part made it into my description, but I'm so glad you mentioned it in yours, and having had first hand experience in those areas, even more special! I also like the way you talk to the reader, reminds of the habit of Imam Ghazali and Imam Hadid in their writings, very interactive.

Have you tried NA by any chance? That one was an instant love for me, Deep Black was a very close second, but honestly all were at a level I couldn't really compared between them! There is something calming about them, I've worn several on stressful evenings, or when I wanted to relax, and they've never failed!

Emre, is this you who wrote a review about Oud Yusuf on Parfumo?

 

[-Renton-]

Hinoud by Guru_AromatiX here on the forum but The Tea Guru on etsy, I just applied some and I am very, very pleased so far. It is quite oudy, but no barnyard-y notes so far, very oudy actually but it has such a nice, fragrance other than oud that I cant describe, its soft, sweet, floral, woody, cooling, it is just the first couple of mins of having this on, I already like it. This is my first attar. I didnt know if I should post it here, or in the Oud section as it is an attar but it has a few ouds in it but has other aromatics like Hina. @Guru_AromatiX You did a fine job here, my man.

 

[Mr.P]

About 15 or 20 years ago i got these Molinard perfumes. One rose, which I can’t find, one Jasmine, and one musk. Sprayed a bit of “musc” today just to remind myself of what their interpretation was.

This is actually pretty surprising, and I would expect it more in an attar from the ME than in a French made fragrance. The dry down of the fragrance is like a box of decent Japanese daily burn incense - like one of baieido’s that has benzoin but not much camphor, and a “daigen koh”pack I once had. I remember this is the reason why I bought it in the first place and that’s one of the nicest things about this. smells like it’s mostly made up of naturals no chemical or weirdly, intense modern musls or super Ambers, or ambroxan or any of that. If I had to guess: benzoin, vanilla, labdanum patchouli, something with linalool but balanced and not amber-like, some kind of musk… smells like l-muscone to me, well buried in the sweet sticky stuff. It also feels like it has some kind of gently sweet resinoid making up a fair amount of it - not siam benzoin but maybe some gentler resins like copaiba or sumatra benzoin or something similar

I am inspired by this to (attempt to) make something similar but with a few adjustments, a bit of oud or ck resinoid and a couple of other things…

What amazes me about this is that it doesn’t have any of the typical features of commercial fragrances - it is a legitimate sweet, smooth attar-like musk that i am still surprised came out of the bottle it did.

 

[Jazzoid]

Gardenia enfleurage wax from Wild Veil with Habzoud Pursat Maliki layered on top.

This oil is ageing nicely, the scintillating white flower notes in the top are more pronounced and the fruity Cambodi vibes are restrained, revealing an incensy base. The floral aspect melds seamlessly with the gardenia. Just the ticket for a warm breezy New Years eve dinner in Goa. Cheers everyone!