Sultan Pasha - Juriah

Two different 2019 distillations of Taifi rose, three other rose distillations, osmanthus, chrysanthemum, and cambodi and Hindi ouds.

It opens with a extremely citric rose. Beautifully creamy as well and maybe just a hint jammy. Gets a squeaky oily leathery peach note from the beautiful and present osmanthus. It mixes incredibly well with the rose melange. Very sweet oudy note present as well, smells more like a classic Hindi than cambodi, but my experience with Cambodis is limited. Although the other florals are playing a part, the star of the show is the award winning taif rose distillation. One traditional copper distilled, and one distilled from purely petals. It’s incredibly thick smelling, like sticking your face in a full bouquet. Except this smells better than any Roses I’ve smelled in real life.

I’ve just swiped this gorgeous scent, and will update with how it develops.
Love this one. Spicy citrusy oudy galore
 
Been enjoying the MANE jasmine grandiflorum absolute. A very charming and select grandiflorum.

One thing I noticed… Don't see a whole lot of grandiflorum for sale out there in the places where oud, sambac, rose, sandalwood, etc. are sold. Perhaps it has always been that way but it's kind of surprising to me.
 
Sultan Pasha - Tabacaurum

Sweet, warm, oriental style attar for me. Saffron spice mixed with a potent orange blossom lifting it up. Warm blonde tobacco sweetened by honey all throughout. So sweet I would call this like a tobacco gourmand. Blissful ambers, woods, and resins add a three-dimensional warmth and complexity to the base. There’s a bunch of various florals (orris, ylang, Jasmine) that were hard for me to pick out distinctly, but they provide a balance to the attar that brightens it up a lot. Makes this an easy wear any day of the week. A couple different Ouds in here for us ouddicts as well, mostly showing up in the later drydown, but the real star of the show to me is the blonde tobacco accord built here. A beautiful attar for sure.
 
Jardin de Borneo Gardenia (SPA): It is such a beauty. Starts warm and fuzzy. Later becomes green. It has a lovely mimosa-like soft honey note that I find quite distinct in combination with other things in it. Quite a unique gardenia composition where almost all the gardenia facets are displayed. That's why it sits right in the middle of creamier Hana (Lucky Oud) and Gardelia (Bogue) and neon green SOMA (NOT Perfumes). Also, the trail has this soft creamy and balsam inflected oudy trail.
 
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Ame Sombre by Sultan Pasha Attars - this is the second time trying it and unfortunately I am still not very fond of it. The rose starts out strong as with most of Sultan Pasha attars and the oud definitely is there the whole time. These notes are pleasant but especially after 30 minutes there are notes that do not do it for me, best I can describe it is "ammonia/urine" like. This is not meant to be negative, I know honey and certain floral notes as well as civet can give similar notes, some I find pleasant but not this one.
 
Sultan Pasha - Tabacaurum

Sweet, warm, oriental style attar for me. Saffron spice mixed with a potent orange blossom lifting it up. Warm blonde tobacco sweetened by honey all throughout. So sweet I would call this like a tobacco gourmand. Blissful ambers, woods, and resins add a three-dimensional warmth and complexity to the base. There’s a bunch of various florals (orris, ylang, Jasmine) that were hard for me to pick out distinctly, but they provide a balance to the attar that brightens it up a lot. Makes this an easy wear any day of the week. A couple different Ouds in here for us ouddicts as well, mostly showing up in the later drydown, but the real star of the show to me is the blonde tobacco accord built here. A beautiful attar for sure.
Today I am wearing the Tabacaurum once again. After 10 hours of having the tiniest drop on, the projection is still amazing. I wonder how Sultan Pasha manages to make his attars so long lasting.
 
I've got a little dab of ASO zumurrud on the back of my wrist. This one is a trip and I would guess a unique take on musk. Any review I give here will have to be taken with a huge grain of salt because musk is not something I have experience with, I don't have many points of reference to compare it to.

That disclaimer out of the way, this stuff is tasty. Some dark heavy sticky incensy oud with a really distinctive profile - dark resin, tobacco, fine labdanum, sweet ambergris. As a musk noob I was at first unable to disentangle the musk and the oud because this is a really dark heavy and saturated type agarwood oil that cannot be ignored. Over time the balance shifts, and the scent of a nice heavy concentrated midtone musk note breaks through the surface; this note proceeds to increase in strength and dominance in a slow orchestrated sense - not a sudden burst, but a multi-hour glide with the musk mountain slowly rising.

I found the way this transitions to be particularly delightful.

When I wore a dab yesterday, I was able to detect many of the classic musky aspects that the various substitutes that people have come up with over the years attempt to emulate. I had a similar experience with the Tibetan Musk sample from Yusa Aromatics.
[Ouddict.com] Attar/Mukhallat of the Day
 
Today I am wearing the Tabacaurum once again. After 10 hours of having the tiniest drop on, the projection is still amazing. I wonder how Sultan Pasha manages to make his attars so long lasting.
I believe his intentional use of synthetics in small quantities help with providing projection and longevity in his attars. I don’t believe most if any are all natural, which is the trade-off for the performance.
 
Always good to hear someone else's perspective. I will have to go back and look for that cola!
 
I've been lucky to sample this one also. There is some nice cola from the oud. And the blend is very smooth. What I really like is that it has that distinctive warmth found in some oils, like in ASO Hamms for example. I wish someone compares this to Yaqoot/Yaqoot 2.
Zumurrud, Khalouq and Yaqoot some of the finest musk attars. I prefer Khalouq over zumurrud. I need to swipe Yaqoot to refresh my memory
 
I recently tried a dab of the An Najwa Ruh Motiya (N. India jasminum sambac otto), which is a nice tangy sambac and great as a perfume in itself.

I have not assessed the dry down, but in the top notes I smell everything I would expect to smell in a good Jasmine Sambac oil and nothing that I wouldn't. This is a very clean refined scent, well balanced and without the shrillness that some very fine oils still end up having. I like these better than most absolute which often have a kind of waxy aroma to them. one exception is the Floral Concept sambac absolute which is very carefully refined and just pure flower notes as well. That one however is a diamond in the rough and a bit hard on the senses until diluted / blended, whereas this one seems more suitable as a personal fragrance.

If I didn't know the extraction method I would've guessed a molecular distillate from the concrete, only because this smells more like my reference standard (Robertet sambac heart) than like the old deg distilled sambac attars which have a bit of roughness and a little cooked plant matter aspect to them. I have other sambac ruhs but they are all over the place aromatically and don't know what to make of them.

I would love to know more about these and actually hear from someone who is producing them!











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Sultan Pasha - Juriah

Two different 2019 distillations of Taifi rose, three other rose distillations, osmanthus, chrysanthemum, and cambodi and Hindi ouds.

It opens with a extremely citric rose. Beautifully creamy as well and maybe just a hint jammy. Gets a squeaky oily leathery peach note from the beautiful and present osmanthus. It mixes incredibly well with the rose melange. Very sweet oudy note present as well, smells more like a classic Hindi than cambodi, but my experience with Cambodis is limited. Although the other florals are playing a part, the star of the show is the award winning taif rose distillation. One traditional copper distilled, and one distilled from purely petals. It’s incredibly thick smelling, like sticking your face in a full bouquet. Except this smells better than any Roses I’ve smelled in real life.

I’ve just swiped this gorgeous scent, and will update with how it develops.
Very nice description 👍🏼
 
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