ASO Viet Trang on the left,
Habzoud Pursat Maliki on the right.

I find Viet Trang comforting, I like heating agarwood, and the scent from this oil is not far removed from the scent of heated oudh.

Pusat Maliki has a tangy/acidic vibe that is still there at drydown, and yet, it’s packed with a lot of notes.
 
Speaking of the oud of the day… working my way through a few sulaym samples. I will share first impressions, but it will take weeks before I really understand these oils.

Currently sniffing:
HM Royal Malay Kelantan: 1990’s

Early impressions: this oil has a rugged opening and a familiar profile with some notes that don’t quite match other oils in my collection- there are some very interesting notes simultaneously … an initial bitter sweetness with a hint of galbanum or angelica, rich pungent classic indo/malay woody notes, it also has a scent that is a halmark of the top shelf aged malays i have smelled (this note is also evident in ASO’s malik al malayzi (spelling??)) - it smells “dark” heavy, resinous, oily in a very appealing way. Thank goodness there are no traces of shrieking fresh sour oud notes which i have encounted in malaysian and thai oils more often than i’d like. There is a kind of soft, warm, muskiness to it. Little hints of notes I associate with some borneo oils i have smelled. I have a tiny smudge of mesoud’s castoreum on one hand and the melding of these two scents is quite wild…

this is another fine mature oil – I would love to get a bottle of this kind of quality some day,
I appreciate your mention of the exquisite floral elements. It's true, vintage oils often showcase a deep, resinous character, unfolding a symphony of aromas as they settle. I usually describe this rich, resinous aspect as the essence of 'age.' We're truly delighted to include such a distinguished oil in our Ultima collection. Thank you for your insights, Mr. P
 
Some “Fiet Nam 2020 from Al Hind”, this is a first impression:

Dark viscous oil - opening is pungent in a good way - this is a crassna I guess but not processed or grown in such a way as to yield the sweet honey type of crassa - it is more incense, resinous and a little herbal - in some ways with elements of Prachin oils I have smelled but more lively and pungent and with none of the odd sour insectoid smell of some Thais . The first wafts have a kind of bitter/ slightly caustic scent, in the sense of good smelling scented soap. Smells like natural oud 100% but there is this soapy sense. The other oil I have smelled that featured this in the top notes was ASO’s “Al Shareef II” if I have the name correct. It was something like that. A bright, clean, deeply oudy bitter soapy note. I don’t recall the heart/dry down of the Al Shareef oil - it was the top notes that struck me most. This oil may be from similar wood but I can’t be confident of that.

The pungency is maybe herbal and a little rooty, slightly sour and a little hot - not sure how to describe this. There is a sweet backdrop to the oil that becomes more evident as the topnote fades, the body of the oil has a kind of “serrated” or “toothy” quality - not a smooth sweetness like vanillin. It doesn’t smell like Angelica root but the way it impacts my sense of smell is similar in terms of the brightness and toothy texture. I have a handful of ouds I am very glad to own but wouldn’t wear. They are beautiful as specimens but not for wearing as scents. This is not one of those - this is appealing and very wearable and I would enjoy being surrounded by this aroma for extended periods of time. No decay / bacterial notes / barn. I think some might perceive this as slightly leathery but I am not sure. This is a robust oil, but I think it would go relatively easily on any of the uninitiated lucky enough (whether they are aware able to appreciate it or not) to happen to catch a snootfull of it.
 
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Habz' new Malaysian, Rusa. Very good oil, old school Malay in profile that doesn't go off into the more green/black that I've been mentally associating to Malaysian oils as of late. It's a dark black, not pure incensey like an oil like Ensar's Tigerwoods (royale/95). Habz describes it as raw musk grains but I've never smelled that to make the comparison. It's a heavy hitter for sure!
 
That Mysuru Maharaj by Tabeer Oud is such a wonderful sandalwood!

I've been spoiled for choices this week, yesterday a quarter gram of Sulaym's Assam Artisan arrived, fell head over heels over it. Like zesting a fresh lime, while standing near a waterfall surrounded by abundant greenery, with delicate blossoms intermingled. It feels like surgical precise was used to alter aspects of similar oils, everything is in perfect harmony here. I'm wondering if it's the season, but there's something about extracting this citrusy profile from Hindi ouds, which I can't seem to get bored of!

Today Habzoud's Oud Rusa arrived and I was in a different place, need a full wearing before I can talk about it, but as Sproaty mentioned, very different to the airy green Malays, and something slightly spiced which I found so appealing in Turba.

Day before yesterday I was oddly taken by EO's Naga Kubra, had quite a lot of development in it, being a new gen and organic oil.
 
White Kinam - EO

Floral, complex, powdery sweet, beeswax spice in the background. This has the complexity of a dried down premium cologne. It’s puzzling to me that this comes from wood. What am I smelling? Vanilla? This oil… the way it smells, makes me understand Ensar’s descriptions for the first time. I’d be hard pressed to pick apart this scent profile if I had an ounce and a year to spend with it. Deeply unsettled and grateful to find how little my nose knows.

(I'll be back with more first impressions as I unpack a ludicrously generous pack of samples from @Jame. Thanks again!)
 
KawThaung from Al Hind oud today.
This is a crassna from Myanmar. It is more akin to the cambodian oud in my collection than to thai or other crassnas.

The cambodian crassnas i have smelled fall into a couple of subcategories that i assume reflect age, processing, and terroir.

This one is squarely in the sweet sugary and resinous category, and while I have no idea what these smell like to someone who is uninitiated, I think this is generally of the type that would be safer to wear at parties in oud-naive cultures.

This is on the lively side of the sweet sugary category - it has a bit more life in the top notes than some of the super thick old or perhaps force-aged crassnas i have smelled. I get just a whiff of some of the floral top notes i have smelled in small batch thai oils. When swiped the sugary honey sweetness opens up a bit and a rich buzzy note becomes evident. Uttery lacks the cloying sweet/sour insect fresh crassna notes thank goodness. I’ve become averse to swiping that type of oud.

A focused clear syrupy sweetness stays strong through the buzzy stage of the oil. That peculiar type of sweetness in a broad sense has got to be familiar to any Cambodian/ Myanmar collector and it is strong and purer and more appealing in some ways than my other oils of this type.

I don’t know how old this oil is or what types of pre-or post processing were involved but the sweet note also has a bit of the other peculiar old oud tangy sweetness that shows up in the more appealing oils. The smells a little more mature, or perhaps from better quality wood than many i have sniffed. Al Hind i would love to hear the details.

There is no sense of any fermentation or decay notes, none of the flat dull fermented wood base that emerges in some fermented gulf style crassna, including higher end ajmals.

subtle notes i think i pick up: sweet “maltol” cotton candy, faint nag/carrot seed, woody, vanillin, faint phenolic, typical toothy sweet resinous, jammy
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I don’t know if I would classify it as deception. I don’t think he outright lies about any of his products when it comes to the type of materials etc. But he is definitely a marketing hype beast and is always sounding the alarm and stressing the urgency to buy now to his customers. I see how this is annoying and sometimes frustrating but sometimes the reaction against him is also excessive. He does offer a lot of quality products after all and he is not the only vendor with high prices.
I sent you a DM
 
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