Ashfaque
Jonoon al Oud
Hana (Lucky Oud)
Starts with a lovely lotus (possibly pink or blue) with some prominently creamy white floral smells (common jasmine, j. sambac, tuberose, gardenia so far). The metallic part of lotus and white floral indoles provide an aptly angular contrast. Followed by a touch of ylang ylang's typical fruity floral smell, some fizzy fruit-like nuances greet me with open arms - possibly coming from blue lotus, amplified by the creamy facets of gardenia, j. sambac, tuberose, ylang ylang and probably a few more things.
In the background, there are occasional hints of smoke, possibly a creamy gardenia, woody and a creamy trail of aged Mysore and possibly H. cedar (HD's flinty quality). The smoke is elegantly restrained - similar to the heart of aged vanilla pod tincture (possibly Madagascan), and cocoa absolute, and the initial smells of melted dark chocolate from Cote d'Ivoire, and freshly dark roasted Mandheling (Sumatra) coffee. It adds a contrast to its green/astringent and floral qualities. There is a lovely dusty quality that reminds me of the smell of cocoa powder neat. Thankfully the sweetness/gourmand facets are never loud.
There are some green, astringent and herbaceous qualities too. They are making the heart somewhat astringent whilst adding more complimentary and contrasting nuances to this gardenia-oriented composition.
Tea: What follows is a somewhat tangential point regarding the tea note. So bear with me here please! Ocha To Ka (Mellifluence Perfumes, 2018) is one of my most favourite attars where an aged tuberose absolute plays a very important role of beautifully elongating the tea note. With the help of slightly metallic aquas and astringencies of blue lotus absolute (or similar isolates) and the creamy facets of tuberose and gardenia, I get a similar but a fruitier tea evocation - imagine you dropped some berry fruit compote with some jasmine raw Toucha and Pu-erh teas. A similar but drier and greener tea accord is also coming from Assam Jardin (possibly a non-soaked Hindi). However, unlike in OTK (2018), the tea astringency/accord is deliberately less pronounced. It is in Hana as part of its overall astringency and a very soft incense profile – largely to add a unique touch to its gardenia-oriented floral accord.
Galbanum’s sappy vernal qualities and a delicate patchouli combo (possibly some oud too) gives an impression of oakmoss – it is soft but clearly identifiable. The evocation of oakmoss, gardenia and the overall vernal impression in Hana’s trail reminds of SOMA (NOT Perfumes), albeit with less intensity. In that context I found some similarities with Gardelia 2 (soon to be released by Bogue Profumo) as well. With some of Hans’s fruit, balsam and wood notes, I found some similarities with Jardin de Borneo Gardenia’s (Sultan Pasha Attars). But I need to spend more time with both to be more specific. All three rank amongst my most favourite gardenia compositions.
The green accord also 'cuts' some of the sweetness/creaminess from florals, woods, resins and balsams. The fizzy fruity smell I was referring to earlier is a curious one – being tied to temperature, humidity and blue lotus. Blue lotus smell (both fresh flower and absolute) is quite delicate, which plays an important role in rendering that smell through its slightly metallic and aquas qualities. Consequently, in higher temperatures, that smell is less pronounced. Instead, indolic and creamy facets of various floral and facets of various elements are more pronounced (but still quite elegant). Incense is less pronounced too. In cooler and less humid environments, fizzy fruit, incense and a dry vernal leather are more clearly identifiable. Creaminess of flowers and woods and various balsamic qualities are less strident and allow lotus and gardenia to display their beauty more clearly.
Ylang-ylang green and slightly sweet musky qualities adds some oomph to this vernal gardenia rendition. Not sure what type of ylang-ylang is used but the way the gardenia’s fruity aspect is assisted with high diffusion (even after 3-4 hours), it is probably an absolute. In the trail, a slightly smoky and a vanillic leather smell reminds me of castoreum and certain facets of some classically distilled oud oils from Thailand and Malaysian border. In cooler temperatures, those aforementioned oud-like sweet musk facets are prominent. Regardless of the temperature, various musks and animalics play important roles without being too prominent – a perfect fit for any floral composition.
There is a woody, almost vanillic/benzoin and balsamic heart that is slowly becoming more resinous and woodier. However, the creamy white floral smells are still prominent. Civet probably plays the most important roles in displaying various floral facets. In this instance, imagine the civet being the prism, allowing the aforementioned white and yellow florals to be clearly distinguishable without being discordant.
The greens along with an amber accord (I found various facets common in benzoin, crude amber, amber sweetie, opoponax, styrax, tonka, vanilla, massoia bark, and cocoa,) helps the floral accord by complementing and contrasting at varying degrees.
Were it not mentioned, I never would've imagined it has an oud in it - Assam Jardin. IIRC, AJ is an unsoaked Hindi that starts with soft honey and an aptly modulated spice accord and ends with a beautifully demure greenish leather, a balsamic undercurrent and a very subtle hint of dry/dusty incense. With the benefit of hindsight, I speculate that this oud's deeper green and herbaceous qualities also play an important role in the persistency of the greenish gardenia accord - especially during its deep heart and trail.
Hana is a gardenia composition where greens are used to highlight various gardenia facets. Imagine a rough diamond (a fresh gardenia flower) being expertly cut to reveal its beauties (creamy, fruity and green facets of gardenia in slow motion). Well composed gardenia compositions are rare these days. So, if you like your greens and gardenia, Hana is worth sampling.
Starts with a lovely lotus (possibly pink or blue) with some prominently creamy white floral smells (common jasmine, j. sambac, tuberose, gardenia so far). The metallic part of lotus and white floral indoles provide an aptly angular contrast. Followed by a touch of ylang ylang's typical fruity floral smell, some fizzy fruit-like nuances greet me with open arms - possibly coming from blue lotus, amplified by the creamy facets of gardenia, j. sambac, tuberose, ylang ylang and probably a few more things.
In the background, there are occasional hints of smoke, possibly a creamy gardenia, woody and a creamy trail of aged Mysore and possibly H. cedar (HD's flinty quality). The smoke is elegantly restrained - similar to the heart of aged vanilla pod tincture (possibly Madagascan), and cocoa absolute, and the initial smells of melted dark chocolate from Cote d'Ivoire, and freshly dark roasted Mandheling (Sumatra) coffee. It adds a contrast to its green/astringent and floral qualities. There is a lovely dusty quality that reminds me of the smell of cocoa powder neat. Thankfully the sweetness/gourmand facets are never loud.
There are some green, astringent and herbaceous qualities too. They are making the heart somewhat astringent whilst adding more complimentary and contrasting nuances to this gardenia-oriented composition.
Tea: What follows is a somewhat tangential point regarding the tea note. So bear with me here please! Ocha To Ka (Mellifluence Perfumes, 2018) is one of my most favourite attars where an aged tuberose absolute plays a very important role of beautifully elongating the tea note. With the help of slightly metallic aquas and astringencies of blue lotus absolute (or similar isolates) and the creamy facets of tuberose and gardenia, I get a similar but a fruitier tea evocation - imagine you dropped some berry fruit compote with some jasmine raw Toucha and Pu-erh teas. A similar but drier and greener tea accord is also coming from Assam Jardin (possibly a non-soaked Hindi). However, unlike in OTK (2018), the tea astringency/accord is deliberately less pronounced. It is in Hana as part of its overall astringency and a very soft incense profile – largely to add a unique touch to its gardenia-oriented floral accord.
Galbanum’s sappy vernal qualities and a delicate patchouli combo (possibly some oud too) gives an impression of oakmoss – it is soft but clearly identifiable. The evocation of oakmoss, gardenia and the overall vernal impression in Hana’s trail reminds of SOMA (NOT Perfumes), albeit with less intensity. In that context I found some similarities with Gardelia 2 (soon to be released by Bogue Profumo) as well. With some of Hans’s fruit, balsam and wood notes, I found some similarities with Jardin de Borneo Gardenia’s (Sultan Pasha Attars). But I need to spend more time with both to be more specific. All three rank amongst my most favourite gardenia compositions.
The green accord also 'cuts' some of the sweetness/creaminess from florals, woods, resins and balsams. The fizzy fruity smell I was referring to earlier is a curious one – being tied to temperature, humidity and blue lotus. Blue lotus smell (both fresh flower and absolute) is quite delicate, which plays an important role in rendering that smell through its slightly metallic and aquas qualities. Consequently, in higher temperatures, that smell is less pronounced. Instead, indolic and creamy facets of various floral and facets of various elements are more pronounced (but still quite elegant). Incense is less pronounced too. In cooler and less humid environments, fizzy fruit, incense and a dry vernal leather are more clearly identifiable. Creaminess of flowers and woods and various balsamic qualities are less strident and allow lotus and gardenia to display their beauty more clearly.
Ylang-ylang green and slightly sweet musky qualities adds some oomph to this vernal gardenia rendition. Not sure what type of ylang-ylang is used but the way the gardenia’s fruity aspect is assisted with high diffusion (even after 3-4 hours), it is probably an absolute. In the trail, a slightly smoky and a vanillic leather smell reminds me of castoreum and certain facets of some classically distilled oud oils from Thailand and Malaysian border. In cooler temperatures, those aforementioned oud-like sweet musk facets are prominent. Regardless of the temperature, various musks and animalics play important roles without being too prominent – a perfect fit for any floral composition.
There is a woody, almost vanillic/benzoin and balsamic heart that is slowly becoming more resinous and woodier. However, the creamy white floral smells are still prominent. Civet probably plays the most important roles in displaying various floral facets. In this instance, imagine the civet being the prism, allowing the aforementioned white and yellow florals to be clearly distinguishable without being discordant.
The greens along with an amber accord (I found various facets common in benzoin, crude amber, amber sweetie, opoponax, styrax, tonka, vanilla, massoia bark, and cocoa,) helps the floral accord by complementing and contrasting at varying degrees.
Were it not mentioned, I never would've imagined it has an oud in it - Assam Jardin. IIRC, AJ is an unsoaked Hindi that starts with soft honey and an aptly modulated spice accord and ends with a beautifully demure greenish leather, a balsamic undercurrent and a very subtle hint of dry/dusty incense. With the benefit of hindsight, I speculate that this oud's deeper green and herbaceous qualities also play an important role in the persistency of the greenish gardenia accord - especially during its deep heart and trail.
Hana is a gardenia composition where greens are used to highlight various gardenia facets. Imagine a rough diamond (a fresh gardenia flower) being expertly cut to reveal its beauties (creamy, fruity and green facets of gardenia in slow motion). Well composed gardenia compositions are rare these days. So, if you like your greens and gardenia, Hana is worth sampling.
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