Attar/Mukhallat of the Day

Mr.P said:
Trying to explore making a vetiver fragrance today for someone. I have mixed feelings for vetiver in itself. I appreciate its complexity and I wish I loved it straight up but there are some notes i have a hard time getting past - potato, asparagus, burnt sugar, "band-aids" bandages, molasses (depending on the oil).

Haitian type can be very clear clean and resinous, kind of the least distracting type for me. For the first batch: vetiver haiti (clear, honeylike), vetiver el salvador (robust, earthy), rose absolute, a mellow patchouli fraction, sandalwood oil, and a bit of ambrette seed absolute. Not bad - the rose adds a nice sweet element and blends the other aromas - makes the vetiver more appealing to me. At the moment the ambrette is buried we will see what happens after it sits for a while.
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I can’t really stand vetiver by itself. Way too heady. It overwhelms my senses and makes me a little nauseous, BUT in combo with chamomile I cant get enough. Granted it has to be a light dosing… I also really love it buried under silver fir and labdanum. It’s one of those things that I want to like but can’t. I feel like it’s been really overused in the last ten years in mainstream perfume, especially Le Labo.
 
Shiningrobes said:
I can’t really stand vetiver by itself. Way too heady. It overwhelms my senses and makes me a little nauseous, BUT in combo with chamomile I cant get enough. Granted it has to be a light dosing… I also really love it buried under silver fir and labdanum. It’s one of those things that I want to like but can’t. I feel like it’s been really overused in the last ten years in mainstream perfume, especially Le Labo.
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I find adding a drop of good quality lemongrass makes it significantly airy .. (I would go for Cher's Essential Oils Apothecary-- wasn't too happy with the one from perfumer apprentice)
 
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Mr.P said:
I wanted to point out an interesting patchouly oil. Fraterworks carries the Payan Bertrand patchouli oils, and what is special about this is that they are sourced from Sumatra. The last time I purchased a Sumatra patchouly was in the 90s. This is supposedly the preferred geographic region and oil from this area tends to get bought up in advance by the businesses with the buying power to secure the crops. They have a dark oil and a light oil (iron free). I've only sampled the dark so far but I'm telling you this is special patchouli. I don't know where else you can get authentic Sumatra patchouli.

I don't have any connection to Fraterworks, just so happens that he carries stuff from the premier sources that provide the high-end materials for Hermes, Chanel etc.. These oils are a significant cut above what Eden and Liberty offer, although they have some gems as well
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3elkhaldi said:
I find adding a drop of good quality lemongrass makes it significantly airy .. (I would go for Cher's Essential Oils Apothecary-- never try the one from perfumer apprentice)
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Thanks! She has two top notch patchoulis as well. The aged and the Java. I’m really interested in her florals.
 
I tried Hana by Lucky Oud two days back. The sample I bought from Lucky Oud was not used by me so far and seemingly a great deal of maccaration has taken place. It's a great white floral supported by a non barn oud oil Assam Jardine, ylang-ylang, musk, little bit of castoreum etc., All the high quality ingredients are blended well. Application on both the neck pulse points and behind the ears created a very intoxicating, beautiful, heady, white, yellow and musky floral cloud around me. Assam Jardine oud oil has provided the non barn woodsy base as the basenotes with musk and castoreum.
 
I have worn Hekayat from ASO three times now. This is a blend of musk in Sandalwood oil. Overall impression is of a gentle musk infusion into fine sandalwood oil, selected so as to create a balance between the two materials. There is quite a bit of sediment in my sample vial.

The scent is fine and balanced, gentle presence, sandalwood dominant but with a clear impact of the musk and a light hint of a rosewood type aroma. I smell notes i have smelled in other musk/sandal macerations but don't know how to describe - woody, warm, furry. This is not a loud or attention grabbing oil and does not scream "i am smearing myself with animal secretions" but rather is an approachable presentation of musk and sandalwood. Very interesting and quite different in some ways from the other infusions i have smelled. The mid notes are exceptionally pleasant and the oil creates an appealing skin scent.



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A little Khaltat Baghdad from an Najwa this evening as I go through and organize samples and whatnot.

Peachy, musky, as I have mentioned it has some aspect in common with Kishmir and Ghaliya BH, so if you enjoyed one, you will likely enjoy the others. The ghaliya is on the drier end, this is sweeter and fruitier while still have a clear musk scent.

The peachy/ musky combo in the An Najwa attars is quite interesting, casts a new light on musk for me. i have a feeling this oil will age very well and will be fun to revisit as it matures. I wore it along with some rose otto and the interplay was very pleasant.
[Ouddict.com] Attar/Mukhallat of the Day
 
<Making sure I don't post in oud of the day like before>

ASO - Jumaana RIGHT
I got a sample when I got some oils from someone on the forum, and even though I had expected to fall in love with this one, I didn't.
When I first applied it, there was too much musk for my taste. I LOVE the oud and jasmine, but I can't get around the musk.
I have been applying it a few times since then, also today (I have covid, so everything is a little muted because of a slightly stuffed nose) and even though the musk isn't as in my face anymore (Sorry I have a VERY LOW musk/animalics tolerance, no offense to the oil or artist!!) I'm still not feeling the love I would have expected. (Jasmine is one of my favorite smells and we have a jasmine bush in the garden under our bedroom window. I can literally bathe in that stuff) and the oud variants used sounded good.
 
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Sultan Pasha - Juriah

Goodness this is one slam dunk of an Attar! The sultan calls this his magnum opus of Taif rose and Oud, I am forced to agree. Remarkable from start to finish, a blend unmatched, maybe only by Hindi oud nasha or Cheval d’Arabie. Hard to choose when they all smell so divine. Wondering how the Juriah Privé compares to this one, although as my brother @Fragdoctor had mentioned, I’m not sure there’s any improvement that can be made on this.
 
Wearing Ajmal 1001 nights oil today and what a wonderful blend this is. To the best of my estimation, it has Ajmal’s once coveted animalic musk AAA and indian oud in the base. Honestly, I didn’t take this oil seriously for a long time, coming back to it, I feel surprised how a commerical attar could be the epitomy of oud mukhallat. I go as far as to say, 1001 nights can also be considered a ghalia since it checks all the boxes to qualify. One might say this is just another commerical attar, what is the big deal about it? I would say, “it doesnt matter what your perfume contains; it matters how does it make you feel”.
 
A bit of a sample spray from Areej le Dore / Russian Adam i have been sitting on for a while. The bottle is labeled "Musk III". I checked out the website and did not see any oil with that name in the list of current or former products. I see there's more than one musk line he has sold over the years, guessing this is 3rd edition of "Siberian Musk".

This is a really interesting edt - has an Aramis like modern dry herbal opening that smells like a comparable cologne on one level, but on another is a potent musk scent that brings the fresh grains to mind in a unique way. A skillful blend of aromachems/natural isolates and musk is my understanding and either the ratio of grains to alcohol was absurdly high, or the aroma has some judicious use of oils and synthetic musks to really boost the musk aspect because in terms of resembling the grains themselves, it is the most intensely musky musks that I have stumbled on, in some ways bringing ajmal's old super heavy AA musk gazelle to mind but this is more pure musk scent

There are all kinds of animalic notes floating around, many of which i specifically recognize from musk. I'm not much of a collector of perfume but this one seems like a good specimen because the musk itself is what dominates the heart and base.

IMG_8526.jpeg
 
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Mr.P said:
A bit of a sample spray from Areej le Dore / Russian Adam i have been sitting on for a while. The bottle is labeled "Musk III". I checked out the website and did not see any oil with that name in the list of current or former products. I see there's more than one musk line he has sold over the years, guessing this is 3rd edition of "Siberian Musk".

This is a really interesting edt - has an Aramis like modern dry herbal opening that smells like a comparable cologne on one level, but on another is a potent musk scent that brings the fresh grains to mind in a unique way. A skillful blend of aromachems/natural isolates and musk is my understanding and either the ratio of grains to alcohol was absurdly high, or the aroma has some judicious use of oils and synthetic musks to really boost the musk aspect because in terms of resembling the grains themselves, it is the most intensely musky musks that I have stumbled on, in some ways bringing ajmal's old super heavy AA musk gazelle to mind but this is more pure musk scent

There are all kinds of animalic notes floating around, many of which i specifically recognize from musk. I'm not much of a collector of perfume but this one seems like a good specimen because the musk itself is what dominates the heart and base.

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I have heard that this one is a 50% pure parfum

I had the opportunity to smell and test this one. A friend of mine who owns several creations of Russian Adam sprayed this one on my hand. It went on my jacket and boy ohhh boy I didn’t expect what happened next.

First of all it really really impressed me. It had a vintage chypre barbershop character , forestry with galbanum, slightly fruity and I think it was pine, orange flower and lots of cypress.

But the musk note was sooo dominant in this one that my jacket smells to this day straight up like urine pissy slightly powdery musk grains (please note that this incident was probably 5 months ago). But the funny part is I love it haha.

I think I have never smelled a composition (Attar or pp) with that kind of dominant fresh musk grain note till this day
 
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Scentlover98 said:
I have heard that this one is a 50% pure parfum

I had the opportunity to smell and test this one. A friend of mine who owns several creations of Russian Adam sprayed this one on my hand. It went on my jacket and boy ohhh boy I didn’t expect what happened next.

First of all it really really impressed me. It had a vintage chypre barbershop character , forestry with galbanum, slightly fruity and I think it was orange flower and lots of cypress.

But the musk note was sooo dominant in this one that my jacket smells to this day straight up like urine pissy slightly powdery musk grains (please note that this incident was probably 5 months ago). But the funny part is I love it haha.

I think I have never smelled a composition (Attar or pp) with that kind of dominant fresh musk grain note till this day
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I would guess the body is strong musk tincture, and sandalwood is kept out of the equation to achieve the fresh grain aspect. that's a guess

Your scent notes are interesting, I really mainly picked up on the accord as opposed to the individual notes but I will give it another sniff with those in mind. I'n curious about where some the notes are coming from
 
Got an interesting sample of rose material - it is called "rose ultimate extract" from Fraterworks. I believe in this case the word "ultimate" is used in the sense of "final", not "superior".

Apparently this is an absolute type extraction made from the leftovers from distillation of rose oil. It is quite viscous and heavily pigmented and has some very delicious rose notes along with some unique elements that no doubt reflect the fact that the starting material has been cooked / distilled.

The price is very reasonable compared to absolute or otto. It would not be a direct substitute for either but could be a good way to add authentic rose notes or some unique nuances.

If you are a fan of Rose oil this one is worth a sniff.
 
Ahmaoud said:
Sulaym - Aqsa (Nagaland)
An Najwa - Ruh Khus
ASO - Ward Ta'ifi

A dot of Al Hashimi's Maroke Thaqeel to relax with after work

A spray of Areej Le Dore's Oud Taiwan
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You are smelling good!!
 
One of those crazy evenings, when the desire to mix aromatics overtakes me, granted I'm being reasonable, nothing super rare being sacrificed but a couple days ago I set aside a bit of Sulaym's Nagaland Oud (Aqsa) with ASO's Bridal Grad Ta'ifi Rose and the scent from the tiny vial is beyond words.

So what's the next step, take tiny amounts of Ghaliya Banu Hashim and see if I can boost this wonderful scent with the power of musk and ambergris and camphor. However it turns out is one thing, but just the experience of making these blends, and going back and forth between sniffing different vials is a treat all on its own! My nose feels burning from the cooling vapors of all that I've inhaled, and there's few things which put a bigger smile on my face!

Warning: If anyone attempts this, just know that what you're smelling at the time of blending won't at all be what you'll have in a couple months time. As the oils combine with one another, the relative profiles of the oils wrestle with each other, and the final mixture might not be what you were expecting. In my case, I'll just apply these blends and tinker them on my skin when the time comes
 
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