Attar/Mukhallat of the Day
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Mr.P
oud<3er
This is my first complex attar but it's more or less a fragrance I have spent a whole lot of time developing in EDP/EDT form. I'm working my way up to getting something of the richness and caliber that I see described here for various attars and perfumes, again with the hopes of getting set up here as a resident artisan down the line a bit.
At the moment this is 100% fragrance concentrate no filler oils or carriers so it is quite intense. Musk, rose, myrrh and other resins, vintage 1993 dark sticky patchouli oil, natural vanillin, CK resinoid, herb and citrus oils, labdanum, etc.. I used myrrh and benzoin resin and my own ck extraction so it is a bit of a process to make and there are a lot of solids in this.
I notice the components hit differently in concentrate form than they do when diluted, but the impression is more or less the same and I have to remind myself that I can't really evaluate this relative to the EDT until it has sat for at least a month (which is one the major challenges of the whole process).
Fun though! This is a proud moment for me believe it or not - the cost of something like this is pretty ridiculous and it has taken me a long time to get to the point where i feel comfortable dumping that quantity of beautiful materials into a mixture. Just made this now, can't wait to see what it smells like once everything has fully melded and reacted.This one is going to need an extra long time to mature because the myrrh and benzoin resins have to extract into the oil blend thoroughly.
At the moment this is 100% fragrance concentrate no filler oils or carriers so it is quite intense. Musk, rose, myrrh and other resins, vintage 1993 dark sticky patchouli oil, natural vanillin, CK resinoid, herb and citrus oils, labdanum, etc.. I used myrrh and benzoin resin and my own ck extraction so it is a bit of a process to make and there are a lot of solids in this.
I notice the components hit differently in concentrate form than they do when diluted, but the impression is more or less the same and I have to remind myself that I can't really evaluate this relative to the EDT until it has sat for at least a month (which is one the major challenges of the whole process).
Fun though! This is a proud moment for me believe it or not - the cost of something like this is pretty ridiculous and it has taken me a long time to get to the point where i feel comfortable dumping that quantity of beautiful materials into a mixture. Just made this now, can't wait to see what it smells like once everything has fully melded and reacted.This one is going to need an extra long time to mature because the myrrh and benzoin resins have to extract into the oil blend thoroughly.
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Mousse de Chene
True Ouddict
Congratulations!
I missed the part where you started your new brand @Mr.P I will need to go back and catch up a little. Congratulations!! I appreciate all the knowledge and experience you have been sharing here on the forum. It is great to see that this has turned into products that you can share with others.
Mr.P
oud<3er
Appreciate that, this is an inspiring community. 🙂
Mr.P
oud<3er
Ambergris, 20% extracting in natural santalol isolate (1g in 4g for 5g total). Got the ambergris from Mesoud, it is a dark gray type and quite clean in aroma - it lacked the offputting halitosis notes that i have encountered when grinding up gray 'gris in the past.
The ambergris in powdered form occupied about 1/3 of the volume of the half-tola bottle before adding the santalol, so the mixture is very dark with suspended granules. Curious to see how this turns out... time to apply some heat.
Update: putting the bottle in a hot water bath melted the ambergris to the point where any granules that I had not broken up with the mortar and pestle completely dispersed into the santalol. Earlier it was like sand grains suspended in oil, now it is a smooth syrupy muddy mix.
The ambergris in powdered form occupied about 1/3 of the volume of the half-tola bottle before adding the santalol, so the mixture is very dark with suspended granules. Curious to see how this turns out... time to apply some heat.
Update: putting the bottle in a hot water bath melted the ambergris to the point where any granules that I had not broken up with the mortar and pestle completely dispersed into the santalol. Earlier it was like sand grains suspended in oil, now it is a smooth syrupy muddy mix.
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mesOUD
Resident Artisan
That was something i wanted to mention
But direction of discussion was how to grind it
İt will melt easyly even they are rice sized or bigger
Himanshu Sharma
True Ouddict
Ghalia Leather Attar by Lucky Oud
The names gives it away. This one is a ghalia style blend but so well done.
Top notch jasmine seamlessly blended with salty amber and velvety oud. It would be a pleasant wear in coming cold days.
The names gives it away. This one is a ghalia style blend but so well done.
Top notch jasmine seamlessly blended with salty amber and velvety oud. It would be a pleasant wear in coming cold days.
Today is one of those days where I am craving frankincense in all forms. I layered some Frankincense absolute from @Matt Reese (Sinedi Incense) with some Toros Attar and Frankincense Sandalwood maceration, both from @mesOUD. This combination is giving me amazing focus and clearing my mind.
Jinkoh Fushigi by KyaraZen (from Kangiiten) - So well balanced with the cola/jammy scent of sumatran oud, it has slightly spicy/smoky undertones with a sweet powdery dry down. Only 1 spray goes a long way. I remember KyaraZen describing that his aim was to capture the scent of bubbling sumatran oud on a charcoal, which I believe he did very well.
Mr.P
oud<3er
Update on this project.
So i melted the ambergris into the santalol, and the result is a very dark cloudy liquid. looks like the particulates will not settle however - there is no sign of clearing after sitting for a few days. I have mixed feelings about that and think I prefer a clear solution with settled particulates like one gets with a tincture (in part because although i love it, I find ambergris somewhat revolting and like the idea of filtering out as much of the gunk as possible). I wonder if I had not heated the mix if the powder would have settled leaving a clear infused oil?
This is 20% ambergris by weight, but since the ambergris has a mild scent, the attar very much smelled like sandalwood when I applied some a short while ago. I was definitely expecting funk but what i get is like the santalol has been enhanced and has added depth to it as opposed to literal ambergris perfume. I have some other fragrance competing with it so I need to try again on a day when I haven't applied any fragrance and give it a few hours to see how the ambergris unfolds.
I spiced up my bottle of this. Added Indian vetiver, cedar moss, cistus, and pink pepper.
Today I am wearing the Blue lotus/Tarakan attar from Dr. Incense, plus a fumigation of 2 types of Tarakan wood from Kangiiten😝. I think this attar may work a bit better spread out to bring down the heavy indoles. Super nice blue lotus which genuinely feels psychedelic, though this oud wouldn't be my first choice to mix it with.
Nice to post again after a break, really enjoying going through all your comments!
Ahmaoud
True Ouddict
Speaking of which I was following a conversation @Faris and @Saudalhajri were talking about An Najwa's Ruh Khus and I was way too lost in work to post that day, but I tried three dots of it with a slight bit more of Kangiiten's Kangii Attar (which reminded me of you, Jazzoid) and the resulting combination was just mind-blowing!
Not simply good, or pretty good but out of this world almost! By itself I find Kangii Attar to be way too sweet for my liking but just the touch of this special Ruh Khus, while initially overtaken by the musky rose overload, settled into something rounder and toned down the sweetness. The roundness almost reminded me of Sandalwood, if anyone can believe that!
The rest of the week I really enjoyed mixing some oils I purchased from Sokkat Al Teeb. While the ghaliyahs have been delightful, there's been a combination of various types of plantation Crassnas with Bulgarian rose, Turkish Lavender and Cardamom that I've been gravitating towards. I'm using a mukhallat of Prachin Oud with a co-distillation of Lavender and Cardamom, and another simpler mukhallat of Prachin Oud and Lavender, alongside their Bulgarian Rose oil to come up with a lot of combinations. I love using the cool spiciness of Cardamom, but a little can mask everything so exercise caution!
I think what I'll explore next is wearing the Kangii Attar with some of Lavender/Cardamom/Oud mukhallat, and perhaps a bit of the Khus as well. I do regret the days I find a recipe I can't get enough of, having no way of accurately replicating it.
Mousse de Chene
True Ouddict
Lavender isn’t a note I associate with Arabian attars, I’d like to see it placed in compositions more often as it’s one of my favourite essential oils. Although different regions & grades mostly have a more uniform aroma than Oud, Rose or Sandalwood for example, when you smell a beautifully distilled high grade of Provincial L.angustifolia, the difference is remarkable!
I’ve experimented with blending French Lavender with EO’s Green Papua 2019, and the result was great. In my mind, I’ve imagined this aldehydic fantasy fougere which uses a very green Papuan Gyrinops as a base note complimenting the oakmoss.
Brother, I’m glad you’ve tried An Najwa’s Ruh Khus. His 2020 batch is the best I’ve ever smelt! An Najwa has a brilliant talented nose, not only is his attars top tier, the essential oils he releases are amazing. Again, Ward Imperiale is the best Ruh Gulab I’ve ever smelt. The crystalline pink rosiness is the aroma of pure happiness. When the time is right, there’s nothing better than high grade artisanal rose oil!
The Ruh Khus is pristine. A bright emerald freshness, clean yet deep & complex with an earthy & coumarin like effect. I love it in high heat. Maybe including that into my fantasy fougere would be a wonderful touch, also.
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mesOUD
Resident Artisan
An unreleased musk&Jasmine maceration
The musk and maceration technique continues to amaze me every time how magical it is.
I have used musk and jasmine in the same composition many times, but this is the first time I have macerated musk with jasmine. Honestly, I didn't think that something so simple could be so impressive.
The musk and maceration technique continues to amaze me every time how magical it is.
I have used musk and jasmine in the same composition many times, but this is the first time I have macerated musk with jasmine. Honestly, I didn't think that something so simple could be so impressive.
Saudalhajri
True Ouddict
Trying MLR Shamama and Malik Shamama from MAMY. I enjoyed Malik Shamama more, it’s more focused on the saffron, sandalwood, and rose. While the ML ramnarain is more spice forward. Malik has a thicker body and feel, and creaminess from the saffron and sandalwood. While the other is lighter and more “young” feeling.
Both are wonderful blends, but it depends on the weather and mood. I’ll continue testing the rest.
, the MAMY Ruh Khus 1 is muted olive green in color, it’s rooty, earthy, sweet a little bit. While the MLR is a deep vibrant green and thicker, it’s more refined and focused green, less earthy, and more like salt air mixed with fresh vetiver leaves, with a tiny note of citrus or sourness.
I wonder what they’ll smell like when blended
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Ahh that's funny you are messing with the Kangii attar, I am planning to make a spray from it and had laid out a few ingredients, ruh khus included! The attar smells quite promising in alcohol by itself. I was also thinking to add some red champaca and maybe tweak the rose profile with some other rose. I did think of cardamom but left it out for now, lavender sounds interesting!! I will update with what happens.
Shiningrobes
True Ouddict
All this talk of lavender and oud had me doing a co-swipe of Rising Phoenix Mitti Ultra attar with lavender absolute and some of the last of the Koh Chang from Mesoud that I could kick myself for not buying more of. Each of these with the lavender smell pretty great side by side and the three combined is beyond ethereal and allusive. Beeswax candles and garden windows spattered with rain. Antique powders and orange pekoe tea. A crystalline cool shimmer of purple green honey and Pastel spiced incense. Freshly dug earth and hippie soap shops. Commercial perfume should smell like this. I have to write down the proportions and find another Thai Oud that’s just as limpid and melon-cool as that Koh Chang. I would spend serious money to smell like this all the time!
Mousse de Chene
True Ouddict
I’ve been thinking about Rose recently & this morning I’ve applied Kashani Yellow - The Oud Lab to my beard & clothing, in quite a heavy amount also!
This is the only Iranian Rose oil in my collection, a glorious citrus pink rosiness. Zero off notes, nothing overtly spicy or green, no copper inflections, just the vibrant luminosity of beautiful blooming Roses in the summer heat. Obviously a very high grade of Rose oil.
Slightly sweeter, more rounded & minty than other Damascena oils in my collection.
This is the only Iranian Rose oil in my collection, a glorious citrus pink rosiness. Zero off notes, nothing overtly spicy or green, no copper inflections, just the vibrant luminosity of beautiful blooming Roses in the summer heat. Obviously a very high grade of Rose oil.
Slightly sweeter, more rounded & minty than other Damascena oils in my collection.
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