Attar/Mukhallat of the Day

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Got bored, decided to do some testing:
Kashmir 192121 : sandalwood rose and Kashmir saffron
Kalakas oud oil : dark leathery cheeses with a little woody nuances
Benzoin EO: sweet balsamic resinous and grounding
All mixed and diluted with alcohol at roughly 20%.

Initially it smells good and just like i expected. but it brought out barnyard notes that weren’t there before, maybe deeply hidden in the oud oil, but so far this looks like a good winter scent, we’ll see how it develops.
 
Last edited:
Saudalhajri said:
View attachment 41911

Got bored, decided to do some testing:
Kashmir 192121 : sandalwood rose and Kashmir saffron
Kalakas oud oil : dark leathery with woody nuances
Benzoin EO: sweet balsamic resinous and grounding
All mixed and diluted with alcohol at roughly 20%.

Initially it smells good and just like i expected. but it brought out barnyard notes that weren’t there before, maybe deeply hidden in the oud oil, but so far this looks like a good winter scent, we’ll see how it develops.
Click to expand...

One thing i have noticed is that some oud responds better to dilution in alcohol than others. I have had good results with sinensis, Malaysian peppery cola type, CK, some Indonesian oils. I have not enjoyed the way fermented Hindi types and fermented lao sinensis behave when diluted in alcohol on the other hand. Also the smooth malinau like borneo 3000 are dull when diluted. I interpret this as that fracturing effect that you were describing.
 
Mr.P said:
One thing i have noticed is that some oud responds better to dilution in alcohol than others. I have had good results with sinensis, Malaysian peppery cola type, CK, some Indonesian oils. I have not enjoyed the way fermented Hindi types and fermented lao sinensis behave when diluted in alcohol on the other hand. Also the smooth malinau like borneo 3000 are dull when diluted. I interpret this as that fracturing effect that you were describing.
Click to expand...
Noticed exactly what you said 👍👍, sweetish and greenish ouds in general are good with alcohol. I’ve tried Laos oil in some fragrances before in very very small amounts and it works no problem in the background but never tried it as a main ingredient.
Do you think the fermentation does something on a molecular level that causes fermented ouds to not work well? Or is it simply that the scent of alcohol just doesn’t work with them?
 
I have a hypothesis. Our noses are very attuned to the scents of micro organisms. There are a variety of good reasons for that but one thing at a time I guess here. For example, I have read that we are more sensitive to geosmin than any other substance, and geosmin is a product of microbial metabolism. Since we are able to detect things like this at such small levels, I think when we dilute oud that contains these notes, they kind of stay relatively strong while more pleasant notes get suppressed more by dilution.

I feel like fermented oud has a kind of tension between traditionally appealing and some pretty unappealing notes that smell good mainly because of the context of the rest of the scent of the oil. When it's diluted they get out of balance.

A good explanation for why we are so attuned to the aroma of microorganisms is because they are life-threatening and mainly observable by scent due to their microscopic nature. The way we first notice food is spoiled is often by the smell, not by the appearance. So selection has tended to favor people who were able to detect signs of decay that could cause food poisoning and so on... not surprising we are adapted in response to their presence because they really are our chief competitors at this point.

If it sounds like I'm stating this is fact I am not I'm trying to lay out the rationale for my hypothesis here. 🙂
 
I had a sample of Araku from Lucky Oud a few months back but tried it only today morning. Named after the Araku valley in South India, it's sort of dark, earthy with a mysterious vibe maybe due to the use of a resinous Guggul. Guggul is used in India as a traditional medicine. This is the first attar with Guggul that I have tried. It's beautiful and a drenched, ancient cave with wild flowers is captured perfectly. Araku is dark yet beautiful.
 
Saudalhajri said:
View attachment 41911

Got bored, decided to do some testing:
Kashmir 192121 : sandalwood rose and Kashmir saffron
Kalakas oud oil : dark leathery cheeses with a little woody nuances
Benzoin EO: sweet balsamic resinous and grounding
All mixed and diluted with alcohol at roughly 20%.

Initially it smells good and just like i expected. but it brought out barnyard notes that weren’t there before, maybe deeply hidden in the oud oil, but so far this looks like a good winter scent, we’ll see how it develops.
Click to expand...
Update on this, It's too early to judge but this gives a kind of "old lady" perfume vibe to me. I think its a combination of the barnyard scent comign through, the high benzoin amount, and the relative lack of top notes. i dont have a lot of top notes in my stash that could fit here. I'll visit the shop and get sweet orange EO, i feel itll be perfect here, just a drop.
 
After discussing An Najwa - Ruh Khus Aligarh 2020 in another thread today, I was inspired to do a few swipes.
I rather enthusiastically described it as the Kyara of Ruh Khus! It’s beautifully fresh, pristine, a piecing emerald green clarity yet complex with a deep earthy character, a touch of spice & a natural rounded sweetness. Almost instantly, it’s psychoactive with a meditative peaceful effect on my brain. Exceptional!
 
Enjoying some of my Nagaland Ta'ifi mukhallat, now slightly less than 20% Ta'ifi because I added more oud to it, and I think I'm finally happy with the result. At 20% the blend had great projection and with a drop of Ka'bah Attar had sufficient body, but I still wanted to some density in the mix, so I opted for more oud. What's strange is how more oud brings out the sweetness of the rose, wasn't expected but a welcome surprise!

Started some more macerations with Nagaland oud and a smaller one with Ta'ifi rose yesterday. Neither are from fresh materials but instead a "re-steeping" if you will. I've had success doing this in the past, but with higher amounts of a musk and ambergris "clay". This time I'm trying to increase the yield, using a smaller amount of the solid material to a larger amount of oil. One of the best parts of setting these up is cleaning the bottle tops at the end, and being lost in oud, musk, ambergris and rose heaven!
 
A maceration/modification of the Kangiiten Mysore. It doesn’t have much in the way of top notes on it’s own, but the dry down is incredibly rich and creamy woody so I wanted to give it an opening. A few drops of ambergris maceration from Mesoud and a drop of his rose musk. A couple of drops of the mildly musky Rising Phoenix Iliahi Hawaiian sandalwood and a couple more of his ultra resinny, Sandalwood Secrets with its Mysore on steroids opening with a Trat Oud, some lavender absolute and orris root I had already macerated in it. Right now the whole has a bit of acetone ketone and the ambergris is somehow loud and up front if you can imagine. Also a bit of what Ive come to think of as classic Mysore top notes where it didn’t before, (violet floral, powdery, spicy) but sharpened and almost cartoonish, zingy and fizzy. It really seems like it’s going to calm down though and get lusciously creamy. I can smell that rich dry down a lot earlier and i really hope it smooths out as much as it seems like it might. Now I just have to leave it alone and let it age and soften. If worse comes to worst I can always add more musk and bit of rose and let it become something else. 🤞🏼🤞🏼🤞🏼🤞🏼🤞🏼
 
After a very long break from social Media (even WhatsApp) due to personal struggles I decided to share my thoughts about the Deer Mus&Sandalwood&Rose&Ambergris Maceration from @mesOUD. This thing aged well. Beautifully smooth rose Otto combined with creamy, powdery notes of Musk. The musk note in here is never animalic. And of course there is this salty mineralic note of ambergris in the background. The sandalwood holds everything together. Nothing pops out of the symphony so to speak. You can smell the deer musk. You can smell the ambergris. You can smell the sandalwood. But you can also smell something completely new and magnificent.

This Attar is the perfect example for the famous Quote/Equation or „LAW“ in perfumery 1+1 = 3 (Only from an olfactory point of view, of course)


I don’t know how @mesOUD does this little magic trick of using deer musk without the musk sharing its animalic side. Maybe my nose is just desensitized to certain animalics.

His musk blends only share this beautifully powdery creamy side. (Please notice that I haven’t tried all of his blends so far)

I think we often times underestimate the power of time and musk.

This Attar kept me pretty distracted throughout the day
 
Scentlover98 said:
After a very long break from social Media (even WhatsApp) due to personal struggles I decided to share my thoughts about the Deer Mus&Sandalwood&Rose&Ambergris Maceration from @mesOUD. This thing aged well. Beautifully smooth rose Otto combined with creamy, powdery notes of Musk. The musk note in here is never animalic. And of course there is this salty mineralic note of ambergris in the background. The sandalwood holds everything together. Nothing pops out of the symphony so to speak. You can smell the deer musk. You can smell the ambergris. You can smell the sandalwood. But you can also smell something completely new and magnificent.

This Attar is the perfect example for the famous Quote/Equation or „LAW“ in perfumery 1+1 = 3 (Only from an olfactory point of view, of course)


I don’t know how @mesOUD does this little magic trick of using deer musk without the musk sharing its animalic side. Maybe my nose is just desensitized to certain animalics.

His musk blends only share this beautifully powdery creamy side. (Please notice that I haven’t tried all of his blends so far)

I think we often times underestimate the power of time and musk.

This Attar kept me pretty distracted throughout the day
Click to expand...
JazekAllah dear brother for warm words,this is one of my all time favorites combo
Maceration is a unique technique in itself if done right.
And of course, the ratio
 
And of course the wisdom, experience and hard work. Inshallah I can try all of your macerations, own blends and of course your own distilled oud oils one day.

It feels like an lifetime since I've been here on the forum. So many new faces (names) products and useful information of course. Hope I can help others people as well. Alhamdulillah
 
@Xerohome Bottle in hand right now, the citrus is beautifully balanced. Upon first sniff, you are instantly greeted with a jaw clenching citrus. Almost like when you suck a lemon and it makes you screw your face a bit😂(obviously not that extreme but I get that sort of effect myself) and a beautiful, fresh rose. There's an underlying tea note that I slightly detect, and the sweetness from the Yemeni sidr tops this off perfectly. In all honesty, I applied a small dab a few hours ago so I can't give you the most detailed review. It needs more wears for a proper opinion. I've been scouring the market endlessly for a beautiful rose and I've finally found it. This is definitely one you need to experience for yourself.
 
[Ouddict.com] Attar/Mukhallat of the Day

Made a few blends to test out my skills and found four that work nicely.
Floral earth is Angkor Wat oud, Indian vetiver, lavender and sambac, benzoin and rose Gulab. Grounding, earthy and slightly floral.

Amber spice is a dark Smokey blend with saffron, cardamom, Kalakas oud, vetiver and benzoin. A little sweet, Smokey, spicy.

Jasmine woods is by far my favorite, warm sweet and floral and a little woody. It has jasmine sambac, vetiver, ajmal Seufi oud, lavender, benzoin and Angkor Wat oud.

And finally saffron mystique my wife’s favorite, floral warm leathery earthy. It has sambac, vetiver, benzoin, saffron, prince Cambodia oud and ajmal Seufi oud.

You can see I reused many ingredients because I have a small selection of non-oud oils, but I did my best with them by diluting and changing ratios and amounts between blends. Now all I have to do is let them sit for a couple weeks to mature then test again. Overall they all smell good (wearable) but the four above were my favorites.
 
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