Attar/Mukhallat of the Day

[Hazzy]

Testing out my own blend today. I've decide to name it 'Dar-ul-Khuld' meaning the Garden of Immortality (5th level of Jannah). This blend contains Dehnal oud hindi qadeem, Tibetan deer musk and ambergris. Absolute power

Edit: It also contains Frozen rose from Kannauj India. Seriously amps up the sweetness. My favourite blend I've made to date.

 

[Ahmaoud]

Second night in a row I've spent captivated by mesOud's Deep Black. I remember the first time I went through brother Mehmet's attar sampler, and was blown away by how strong this attar truly was. To this day I keep some, perhaps 1/5th of a 1 ml sample vial for use and store the rest away, the merest whisper of a swipe is enough to enjoy this beautiful scent.

It's a cold, deeply aromatic scent, smelling almost like a spice cabinet, dense yet has an underlying coolness to it, which makes makes the entire composition airy. I highly value mukhallats for their utility instead of their scent alone, I want to be able to touch the neck of a bottle and that should be sufficient to perfume me, and Deep Black rises to that challenge. What's also known about me, is my intense passion for cold scents, not scents typically worn in cold weather but scents which make my nose feel like I'm standing in a blizzard! Sometimes a scent will smell like this from the bottle but will fail to replicate it on skin, again Deep Black smashes that. Need I say anything more about the performance or the integrity of the scent through a wearing?

Imagine being invited to a cabin in the forest during winter, say for expression sake it's for elevenses (a hobbit's meal at 11am), and the table is lined with cakes spiced with cinnamon and nutmeg, and cups filled with a ginger and rose tea, sweetened with vanilla sugar. In the back a fire roars, fed with juniper logs, vaporizing dried resin tears on the bark, and warming the house. It feels cozy, and brisk, relaxing yet energetic, reminding you of the cold outside, superimposed with the warmth indoors. It's a masterful work, how all these notes I usually shy away from, vanilla, rose, ginger, juniper tar, valerian are used so that, I not only enjoy them but also adding a lift to the scent profile is beyond me!

I think often about what is means to enjoy a scent. Are we just picking something from our rotation, and today's pick smells better than what we've recently been wearing? Are we wearing trendy and in style scents (nothing wrong with that btw), or are wearing scents, which not only feel like they were made for us, but deeply touch something at the core of our being? Deep Black fails into that illustrious category for me!

 

[Scentlover98]

Second night in a row I've spent captivated by mesOud's Deep Black. I remember the first time I went through brother Mehmet's attar sampler, and was blown away by how strong this attar truly was. To this day I keep some, perhaps 1/5th of a 1 ml sample vial for use and store the rest away, the merest whisper of a swipe is enough to enjoy this beautiful scent.

It's a cold, deeply aromatic scent, smelling almost like a spice cabinet, dense yet has an underlying coolness to it, which makes makes the entire composition airy. I highly value mukhallats for their utility instead of their scent alone, I want to be able to touch the neck of a bottle and that should be sufficient to perfume me, and Deep Black rises to that challenge. What's also known about me, is my intense passion for cold scents, not scents typically worn in cold weather but scents which make my nose feel like I'm standing in a blizzard! Sometimes a scent will smell like this from the bottle but will fail to replicate it on skin, again Deep Black smashes that. Need I say anything more about the performance or the integrity of the scent through a wearing?

Imagine being invited to a cabin in the forest during winter, say for expression sake it's for elevenses (a hobbit's meal at 11am), and the table is lined with cakes spiced with cinnamon and nutmeg, and cups filled with a ginger and rose tea, sweetened with vanilla sugar. In the back a fire roars, fed with juniper logs, vaporizing dried resin tears on the bark, and warming the house. It feels cozy, and brisk, relaxing yet energetic, reminding you of the cold outside, superimposed with the warmth indoors. It's a masterful work, how all these notes I usually shy away from, vanilla, rose, ginger, juniper tar, valerian are used so that, I not only enjoy them but also adding a lift to the scent profile is beyond me!

I think often about what is means to enjoy a scent. Are we just picking something from our rotation, and today's pick smells better than what we've recently been wearing? Are we wearing trendy and in style scents (nothing wrong with that btw), or are wearing scents, which not only feel like they were made for us, but deeply touch something at the core of our being? Deep Black fails into that illustrious category for me!

This is probably the best description I have ever read brother. MashaAllah !!!
@mesOUD Abi you have to hire brother @Ahmaoud for your descriptions on the website 😅

But jokes aside
I still think about deep black to this day. Unfortunately I don’t own it (a friend of mine owns the attar sample set) but it almost calls for me. Surprisingly I think of this attar very often. Especially when I do my morning walk in the woods (everyday for 40min in the morning, I often times touch trees and try to feel the nature and frequencies but this is another topic). I only get to smell it when I am at his place but thanks to your description about your emotions and the whole scenery, I swear I could sense it in the air. That’s why I thank you for that brother even if it was for a split second.
This is one of the most sensual Attars I have ever smelled to this day. (And I have probably smelled over 500)

It is very cold in a strange why but also gives you this Fell of comport and warmth.

This is a great question that crosses my mind almost every day brother.

In the case of Deep Black it feels like it is made for me, it touches something deep inside of me and surprisingly It reminds me of a person who was very close to me.

This is a attar that I would store away and only smell from the neck of the bottle. Only for special occasion of course.

Chapeau

 

[Castingshadows]

Wearing Shirin Chai today by Sultan Pasha.

This one took awhile to click but once it did I’m enamored by the scent profile. Rich black tea, rose, ouddiness, and balsamic florals. Very nice stuff. Might be my favorite tea scent.

 

[mesOUD]

This is probably the best description I have ever read brother. MashaAllah !!!
@mesOUD Abi you have to hire brother @Ahmaoud for your descriptions on the website 😅

But jokes aside
I still think about deep black to this day. Unfortunately I don’t own it (a friend of mine owns the attar sample set) but it almost calls for me. Surprisingly I think of this attar very often. Especially when I do my morning walk in the woods (everyday for 40min in the morning, I often times touch trees and try to feel the nature and frequencies but this is another topic). I only get to smell it when I am at his place but thanks to your description about your emotions and the whole scenery, I swear I could sense it in the air. That’s why I thank you for that brother even if it was for a split second.
This is one of the most sensual Attars I have ever smelled to this day. (And I have probably smelled over 500)

It is very cold in a strange why but also gives you this Fell of comport and warmth.

This is a great question that crosses my mind almost every day brother.

In the case of Deep Black it feels like it is made for me, it touches something deep inside of me and surprisingly It reminds me of a person who was very close to me.

This is a attar that I would store away and only smell from the neck of the bottle. Only for special occasion of course.

Chapeau

I totally agree with you brother, it is a pleasure for me to read all the descriptions of brother Ahmad.
The thing that attracts my attention (this is not only related to this attar) is that brother Ahmad does not only give a description on the basis of information, like breakdown of the notes, he also captures the spirit of the fragrance.

 

[Saudalhajri]

I decided to start experimenting in making perfumes based on the traditional perfumery families, first with Single Floral and Woody perfumes labeled SF and Wood

SF is jasmine sambac dominant. It has:
Jasmin sambac 1% : 10 drops
Ruh Gulab 1% : 4 drops (this adds a little depth)
Indian vetiver 5% : 3 drops (this emphasis the rich green of the Jasmin with a little earthiness)
Lavender 5% : 2 drops (boosts the jasmine with herby freshness)
Angkor wat oud 10% : 4 drops (a boost of woody floral oud)
Saffron 1% : 3 drops adds a little dry woodiness and complexity without being too much.

The wood one is :
Indian vetiver 5% : 7 drops (main green earthy note)
Laotian oud 10% : 5 drops (nice woody oud with Smokey notes)
Angkor wat oud 10% : 4 drops
Prince Cambodia oud 10% : 3 drops
Cardamom 1% : 3 drops
Benzoin 2% : 5 drops (I think this is too much especially on the opening)
Kalakas oud 10% : 3 drops (adds a nice dark woody support base for all the above)

Overall two good blends, although the SF needs some adjustment, and the wood one reminds me of a perfume I had around 10 years ago called Amber tiger or something like that, especially on the opening.

 

[Mr.P]

View attachment 42075

I decided to start experimenting in making perfumes based on the traditional perfumery families, first with Single Floral and Woody perfumes labeled SF and Wood

SF is jasmine sambac dominant. It has:
Jasmin sambac 1% : 10 drops
Ruh Gulab 1% : 4 drops (this adds a little depth)
Indian vetiver 5% : 3 drops (this emphasis the rich green of the Jasmin with a little earthiness)
Lavender 5% : 2 drops (boosts the jasmine with herby freshness)
Angkor wat oud 10% : 4 drops (a boost of woody floral oud)
Saffron 1% : 3 drops adds a little dry woodiness and complexity without being too much.

The wood one is :
Indian vetiver 5% : 7 drops (main green earthy note)
Laotian oud 10% : 5 drops (nice woody oud with Smokey notes)
Angkor wat oud 10% : 4 drops
Prince Cambodia oud 10% : 3 drops
Cardamom 1% : 3 drops
Benzoin 2% : 5 drops (I think this is too much especially on the opening)
Kalakas oud 10% : 3 drops (adds a nice dark woody support base for all the above)

Overall two good blends, although the SF needs some adjustment, and the wood one reminds me of a perfume I had around 10 years ago called Amber tiger or something like that, especially on the opening.

Thanks for sharing these. What kind of benzoin are you using? On a certain level I'm surprised it sticks out, but some of my benzoin oils are about 10 times as pungent as others, one is a very soft mild vanilla, another is quite punchy and a little bit tangy / tart over the classic sweetness. I end up making my own benzoin tincture in part because my benzoin oils are so different from one another.

 

[Saudalhajri]

Thanks for sharing these. What kind of benzoin are you using? On a certain level I'm surprised it sticks out, but some of my benzoin oils are about 10 times as pungent as others, one is a very soft mild vanilla, another is quite punchy and a little bit tangy / tart over the classic sweetness. I end up making my own benzoin tincture in part because my benzoin oils are so different from one another.

It’s 40% Benzoin resin, 60% benzyl benzoate from absolute aromas, I bought it a very long time ago so I had to look it up. It’s not punchy or tangy but more like honey-vanilla sweet, with a nice smooth thick body, but it’s quite strong. It’s the only benzoin I ever smelled in oil form.

 

[Scentlover98]

I am currently working on a „rose“ fragrance.
Unfortunately I am not satisfied at all.

I tried to creat a uplifting fresh citrusy airy top with slightly sweet spicy heart and a woody base.

These are just few of the 22 notes that I used overall.

In the top I paired Raspberry with Omani Hojari frankincense (from @Habz786. This one is just truly beautiful and I wisch I had more),
A touch of other airy and fresh fruits.

In the heart I paired @mesOUD Abi‘s rose absolute (the best rose absolute that I have smelled to this day) with rose Otto, a touch of orange flower and some spices.


And for the base I used two different thai ouds, touch of Tabak and costus (wich I diluted down to 1%) and 2 different woods.

It opens up fresh sligly fruity, airy. I am very proud of the top since it is very well balanced. Nothing pops out too much (maybe the Mandarine). Then the roses and spices start to interfere and you get this synergy of roses and warm spices in the background. A slight tee note joins in that I don’t understand yet. And you can still smell minimal nuances of fruits in the background.

Slowly the ouds and woods come out.

But unfortunately the tabac is not how I wanted it to be, and the the heart is too strong/dominant in comparison to the base.
I still have to make some small adjustments.

Keep in mind that this was the ninth attempt.

And the strangest thing is that I can clearly detect a powdery musky note, and I don’t know why

I don’t know why but I love to work with fruits if I think that they’re suited in a fragrance. Especially with raspberry, blackcurrent, and pear. They can elevate a fragrance (Especially at the top) to the extent that I would love to use them more often. Unfortunately they aren’t cheap

Maybe because I eat fruits daily and they are one of my main carb sources with honey.

Man this will keep me up at night

 

[Mr.P]

I am currently working on a „rose“ fragrance.
Unfortunately I am not satisfied at all.

I tried to creat a uplifting fresh citrusy airy top with slightly sweet spicy heart and a woody base.

These are just few of the 22 notes that I used overall.

In the top I paired Raspberry with Omani Hojari frankincense (from @Habz786. This one is just truly beautiful and I wisch I had more),
A touch of other airy and fresh fruits.

In the heart I paired @mesOUD Abi‘s rose absolute (the best rose absolute that I have smelled to this day) with rose Otto, a touch of orange flower and some spices.


And for the base I used two different thai ouds, touch of Tabak and costus (wich I diluted down to 1%) and 2 different woods.

It opens up fresh sligly fruity, airy. I am very proud of the top since it is very well balanced. Nothing pops out too much (maybe the Mandarine). Then the roses and spices start to interfere and you get this synergy of roses and warm spices in the background. A slight tee note joins in that I don’t understand yet. And you can still smell minimal nuances of fruits in the background.

Slowly the ouds and woods come out.

But unfortunately the tabac is not how it wanted it to be, and the the heart is too strong in comparison to the base.
I still have to make some small adjustments.

Keep in mind that this was the ninth attempt.

I don’t know why but I love to work with fruits if I think that they’re suited in a fragrance. Especially with raspberry, blackcurrent, and pear.

Maybe because I eat fruits daily and they are one of my main carb sources with honey.

I love black currant absolute - delicious!

Costus oil is another interesting material, one that does not seem to be readily available these days.

Sounds like an interesting blend you are making... and we are agreed that @mesOUD 's centifolia rose absolute is a beauty!

 

[Mr.P]

Wow - just got a sample of "Olibanum Resinoid Vulcain". This is a dry/destructive distillation product - occurs at higher temperature without water. Amazing... this is the most surprising frankincense material i have smelled in a long time, I thought i'd smelled all the basic types of frank oil. This is a very thick, heavy oil and sticky like honey - there is this one sublime dry woody amber layer that is very pronounced and especially striking; the heart is rich, deeply resinous, not too shrill. Masterpiece extraction of frankincense, I am shocked -I can smell a warm breeze through a grove of trees with papery bark saturated with resin… transporting. I knew I would like this from the description but I didn't think I'd like it this much.

The high temperature process gives it an Oud like richness after the top fades. Not barnyard exactly but something akin to it. 🤩

 

[Mr.P]

Amazing freaking frankincense oil, I am ecstatic.

 

[Shiningrobes]

Amazing freaking frankincense oil, I am ecstatic.

Fraterworks?

 

[Ahmaoud]

Fraterworks?

I believe it's purchased from there but it's actually a Firmenich oil

 

[Mr.P]

I believe it's purchased from there but it's actually a Firmenich oil

That's it. One thing I should say is that this is quite different from a Sacra distillate so it will not scratch the itch that a really bright citrusy type distillation will if that's what you're looking for. This is definitely in the vein of other resinoids I have smelled - dry resin, heavier citrus, spicy and salty - but with something more appealing to my nose.

The tobacco "signature" absolute is outrageous as well and very much brings some oud to mind. I didn't realize tobacco absolute could smell this good by itself

 

[Shiningrobes]

That's it. One thing I should say is that this is quite different from a Sacra distillate so it will not scratch the itch that a really bright citrusy type distillation will if that's what you're looking for. This is definitely in the vein of other resinoids I have smelled - dry resin, heavier citrus, spicy and salty - but with something more appealing to my nose.

The tobacco "signature" absolute is outrageous as well and very much brings some oud to mind. I didn't realize tobacco absolute could smell this good by itself

i just looked and they also have a crazy labdanum pyrodistillation that also sounds amazing from another producer. Both sound great to scratch that Mt. Athos incense itch.

 

[Castingshadows]

I am currently working on a „rose“ fragrance.
Unfortunately I am not satisfied at all.

I tried to creat a uplifting fresh citrusy airy top with slightly sweet spicy heart and a woody base.

These are just few of the 22 notes that I used overall.

In the top I paired Raspberry with Omani Hojari frankincense (from @Habz786. This one is just truly beautiful and I wisch I had more),
A touch of other airy and fresh fruits.

In the heart I paired @mesOUD Abi‘s rose absolute (the best rose absolute that I have smelled to this day) with rose Otto, a touch of orange flower and some spices.


And for the base I used two different thai ouds, touch of Tabak and costus (wich I diluted down to 1%) and 2 different woods.

It opens up fresh sligly fruity, airy. I am very proud of the top since it is very well balanced. Nothing pops out too much (maybe the Mandarine). Then the roses and spices start to interfere and you get this synergy of roses and warm spices in the background. A slight tee note joins in that I don’t understand yet. And you can still smell minimal nuances of fruits in the background.

Slowly the ouds and woods come out.

But unfortunately the tabac is not how I wanted it to be, and the the heart is too strong/dominant in comparison to the base.
I still have to make some small adjustments.

Keep in mind that this was the ninth attempt.

And the strangest thing is that I can clearly detect a powdery musky note, and I don’t know why

I don’t know why but I love to work with fruits if I think that they’re suited in a fragrance. Especially with raspberry, blackcurrent, and pear. They can elevate a fragrance (Especially at the top) to the extent that I would love to use them more often. Unfortunately they aren’t cheap

Maybe because I eat fruits daily and they are one of my main carb sources with honey.

Man this will keep me up at night

Have you tried creating separate accords on their own for each individual stage and then making several versions of each accord and then several versions of the final product each with different ratios of the same accords?

I find that when you really dial in the base and take notes on how the materials perform on skin it really helps to bridge the heart to the bottom. Natural Tobacco is a difficult one to pull off in blends because you really need materials like Flouve, coumarin, tonka, cedar, davana, seaweed absolute, and hay absolute to allow the nuances of the tobacco note to shine forward in the blend and not just enhance the Thai Oud or the various damescones present in the rose materials.

 

[Scentlover98]

Have you tried creating separate accords on their own for each individual stage and then making several versions of each accord and then several versions of the final product each with different ratios of the same accords?

Some of the listed notes are actually accords not really single ingredients(I should maybe clear that up).

And you totally right about the tabac. It really needs „supporting“ notes to really shine in a composition.

I will definitely take your advice and test some of them on my skin, and make notes. I haven’t had the time to test them on my skin due to work and the cold weather (unfortunately I have to wear cloves)

Thank you for the advice, really appreciate it 👍🏻

 

[SophMarie]

@Hazzy
I've been scouring the market endlessly for a beautiful rose and I've finally found it. This is definitely one you need to experience for yourself.

Lovely to hear. My bottle arrives next week 🙂

 

[studio.albion]

a swipe on each wrist : )

fareed & deep black by dear @mesOUD

first of all, want to say how deeply moving & personal mehmet's mukhallat are. poetic, sensitive balances and such a warm, kind spirit is evident in the craft.

fareed might be my new favorite scent... calming, stimulating, simultaneously really fresh & really grounded. there is a note in there (cedar? laurel?) that instantly transports me to summers i spent in the bekaa valley of lebanon. big contender for signature scent

deep black, delicious in a very different key. fantastic for winter, especially the harmony between the darker, more leathery aspects & the (delicately) bracing top notes (ginger, peppermint, rosemary etc)... might even dare to say this one has a flirtatious/seductive edge to it, quite interesting as i find the rest of mesoud's blends leaning towards the meditative side... cheeky & reassuring