Eo 1984
 

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  • [Ouddict.com] Attar/Mukhallat of the Day
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A friend sent me a sample of L'Ame du Bois by Barzakh Perfumes. It contains 20 different woods, including four sandalwoods: cambodian oud; sandalwood (Mysore, Australian, Indonesian, Sri Lankan); cade, siam, guaiac, rose wood;
Atlas, Virginia, Himalayan cedar cypress and blue cypress; copal and palo santo; french oakwood, white birch, nootka, firetree.

"Wood has a soul,
Feel its smell"

I've only been wearing it a few minutes but it's lovely.
 
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Was moving my boxes in the vault earlier today when I thought I’d dig into the perfumes I stashed away. On top of the heap were Ottoman Empire v4 and Diaghilev.

I haven’t touched them for years so I sprayed them .. to kind of remember why I loved them in the first place: OE4 on my right wrist and Diaghilev on my left. And I smiled because I remembered how glorious they were …

But I’m on my attar/mukhallat phase now and although it’s been a great detour from perfumes with alcohol, I am bewildered by the various beautiful possibilities offered by these no-alcohol concentrated perfume oils.

These are three of the lot that I recently tested and purchased and grew to love:

@Al Shareef Oudh - Al Ghaliya II
@SULAYM - HM Royal Jardin
@yusa - Ghaliyah Al Wajd
 
Was moving my boxes in the vault earlier today when I thought I’d dig into the perfumes I stashed away. On top of the heap were Ottoman Empire v4 and Diaghilev.

I haven’t touched them for years so I sprayed them .. to kind of remember why I loved them in the first place: OE4 on my right wrist and Diaghilev on my left. And I smiled because I remembered how glorious they were …

But I’m on my attar/mukhallat phase now and although it’s been a great detour from perfumes with alcohol, I am bewildered by the various beautiful possibilities offered by these no-alcohol concentrated perfume oils.

These are three of the lot that I recently tested and purchased and grew to love:

@Al Shareef Oudh - Al Ghaliya II
@SULAYM - HM Royal Jardin
@yusa - Ghaliyah Al Wajd
The Ghaliyah Al Wajd sounds incredible. I somehow completely I overlooked it …..

If you don’t mind sharing your impressions ?


Would really appreciate it
 
A dab of @Al Shareef Oudh taif rose - the very last residue in a bottle so likely changed from its original state. I am experiencing a tart citrusy rose, nice clean opening, a very focused singing rose.

On my other arm is the Istanbuli rose. This has a different top note presence - a bit of bitter almond or something akin to that I often smell in rose otto before its scent settles. This is nice stuff - and I feel like it has distinct Turkish rose facets if I look for them, but I don't think I would've realized it was from turkey if I didn't know ahead of time.
 
I just applied a small smear of Khaltat Baghdad - a small sample that came in the last shipment of stuff I got from @An Najwa

I had a sample of this from an earlier shipment and I'm not sure if this is the same blend or a new version... the impression was a little bit different this time than the last time I wore it, when the peach-like fruity aspect seemed stronger. This time I feel like I picked up on many more different notes in balance, woody, spicy, resinous, floral, musky, fruity - a very beautiful accord. Many of these notes I eventually came to tune in to in the past, but I did not really sense them together in the top notes as much as I do now. I feel like I'm able to pick up on more layers and perceive this in a more sophisticated way.

I don't see anything indicating this is a different version of the perfume so I think this is some combination the miracle of the fragrance maturing and maybe my own nose finally waking up to what was right in front of me. Pretty much every interesting material I have has taken me many applications to really understand so it can be really hard to tell the difference between something maturing versus one's own perception changing.
 
My own mukhs are getting my attention today. Right now it is a Prachin-tobacco accord, much more complex than it was yesterday. Ingredients include but are not limited to vetiver, cypress, lime, tonka, nagarmotha, tobacco, dark Prachin style oud, benzoin, ambrette seed, carrot seed, baslam Peru, bergamot, rose, labdanum, sandalwood, vanilla, etc..

The step up in complexity overnight comes from using one of my perfumes (Amber) as an ingredient in the tobacco perfume... the amber is in itself a blend of 17 materials.

FWIW when I used to see some of the crazy formulas with dozens and dozens of ingredients many at tiny little fractions of a percentage, I did not at first realize that these types of formulas emerge from blending by combining blends not building up one step at a time with single ingredients.

There was kind of a significant threshold for me of understanding technique and amassing resources… accumulating enough well-developed blends of my own that they could be used productively as notes within a perfume, and doing some formulating on that level.
 
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Ambrox "natural" from Perfumers Supply House.

For whatever reason this material has me scratching my head. Is it natural? I don't know the exact details of the germs in question, but this is made by fermentation… It is produced by microorganisms and extracted and purified from them, in much the way alcohol is from yeast. I don't know if this makes it in any way preferable to ambrox that is made by chemically altering clary sage oil, but I was intrigued at the fact that it was produced as is by living things. GMO I assume.

I don't mess around much with the aromachems and don't use any in my blends, but I find this one irresistible because of its existence in ambergris and the existence of a natural non-whale source of the molecule.

There's sort of a two level effect with this - it is a bit surprising. In traces I get a very true to ambergris aroma - deeply compelling especially if combined with some other resinous oils, but it has to just be in traces - just over the threshold of awareness. Anything more than this and it starts to smell kind of artificial, like a cotton candy, laundry detergent, "walk at the mall" type ambroxide scent (which i can live without ever smelling again for the rest of my life basically).

I do like to use my own dilutions of this in my own experiments (not products) as a kind of placeholder for the authentic ambergris which I may well use in future blends.
 
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Honey Amber by Teone Reinthal

Tropical flowers adorn a vintage leaning powdery base made up of vanilla, benzoin, labdanum and sandalwood. Opening is a bit animalic and metallic, but dry-down is so comforting. I LOVE the amber base accord Teone created. Apparently, Honey Amber draws similarities with Ysatis.
Yum
 
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