Attar/Mukhallat of the Day
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LibraryOfPerfumes
Oud Fanatic
Love the grandiflorum variant! It's sweet, boozy, slightly decaying... Narcotic!
Mr.P
oud<3er
I was triggered to post that by a small sample of absolute i had with my on a walk earlier. Egyptian "extra" grade, this was maybe 0.1 mL that was in a tester bottle and has been in there probably for a good 4 months so there may be some change due to reaction with oxygen. this oil had the most beautiful sweet clean candylike yet deeply floral presence - balanced in a way that reminds me of the absolute from enfleurage that used to come out of Grasse and you could still sample in the 90's.
![[Ouddict.com] Attar/Mukhallat of the Day](https://data.ouddict.com/attachments/44/44857-b7780779116f1d3f093eccd68cb79e45.jpg?hash=7tFopQQX0q)
Xerohome
True Ouddict
If you are into kinamic perfumes I'd recommend White Kyara or Kinam Urjuani by Agar Aura, they are on a different level compared to EO.
My SOTN was White Kyara by AA, I sprayed it inside the house, a friend came from the street outside swears he smells it out there Lol
Mr.P
oud<3er
I put on a swipe of diluted oakmoss absolute yesterday at around 5:00. It's like 15 hours later here, and I'm still smelling oakmoss strongly on the back of my hand. This stuff is one of the few things that can really give sandalwood a run for its money in this regard. I always have mixed feelings after getting a too much oakmoss on my skin - it is wonderful and its impact is so striking when it combines with other things, but it also makes it hard to smell anything else clearly for a good 10 to 12 hours.
Mr.P
oud<3er
Arrived today: pink and red rose otto, motia oil, and a khus sample all distilled in a deg-bapkah setup. There's also a small sample of ruh mogra ( which I think is an absolute not a distillate). All from hasayanperfumers in Uttar Pradesh.
Folks who have spent a little time sniffing things know that it takes a while to really understand a new material but it's fun to share first impressions.
The red Indica rose is very interesting on first inspection… that classic rose oil body is there, but there are some other facets in the top notes that bring in a different dimension of the classic rose aroma - a beautiful dry almost wine like quality but not in any kind of fermented sense... something I have smelled in fresh red roses.
The pink otto is less "sensational" which is not to say it's of lesser quality but it doesn't have anything unusual poking out. Compared to the red rose oil it comes across as a classic ruh gulab with a soft fuzzy velvety-rose topnote and a deep warm geranium-rose heart. Not as sparkling as @An Najwa 's stunning ruh gulab but in the same genre.
Folks who have spent a little time sniffing things know that it takes a while to really understand a new material but it's fun to share first impressions.
The red Indica rose is very interesting on first inspection… that classic rose oil body is there, but there are some other facets in the top notes that bring in a different dimension of the classic rose aroma - a beautiful dry almost wine like quality but not in any kind of fermented sense... something I have smelled in fresh red roses.
The pink otto is less "sensational" which is not to say it's of lesser quality but it doesn't have anything unusual poking out. Compared to the red rose oil it comes across as a classic ruh gulab with a soft fuzzy velvety-rose topnote and a deep warm geranium-rose heart. Not as sparkling as @An Najwa 's stunning ruh gulab but in the same genre.
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Mr.P
oud<3er
Enjoying the pink gulab from Hasayan Perfumers. I never get the most delicate or fresh rose notes from deg distilled Gulab. Some very beautiful and saturated velvety rose notes but not those delicate fresh ones like you get in Bulgarian oil. Whether this reflects the equipment or the regional variety of rose I don't know, but I was reading in one of the old texts that Rose oil produced in "field stills" (copper hydro units basically) has a more mellow velvety aroma and that produced via steam in stainless has more fresh / peppery / lively top notes, and my experience with Ruh Gulab is consistent with this. for this oil the top notes are kind of "fuzzy rose", heart and base are saturated classic sparkling damask rose.
Mr.P
oud<3er
I'm going to try to check out one or two of these Teone Reinthal perfumes each day here to see what I can learn. This is a first impression (not based on a full wearing) of "tuberose incense". This has a floral tuberose type opening that brings one of the perfumes I smelled earlier to mind - Arjuna. To me it smells like there is some of this one type of ruh juhi white lotus used to carry years ago… Very distinct "singing" type of jasmine with a particular clear note that distinguishes it from the other species. If this does not have juhi in it, there is some other floral or natural flowery isolate that has a similar aroma. So far I really like the floral accords that are found in these fragrances, they seem balanced and like they were made by somebody who really has a love of the floral ingredients.
LibraryOfPerfumes
Oud Fanatic
Yes! Tuberose Embers (I mistakenly wrote Tuberose Incense on the label), has tuberose, jasmine and rose. If you like tuberose embers, you are going to love Queen of Sheba! Teone really understands flowers very well! She sells an incense by the name Tuberose Incense which inspired her to create a perfume to capture the lingering aroma of the unburnt incense sticks. I have both, and I confirm that they both are equally good!
Mr.P
oud<3er
I am convinced ruh juhi is a large part of the tuberose accord - I have a few little bottles I've been sniffing just to chase that thought down. I have smell two very different types of juhi - the absolute on the one hand and the ruh on the other. The absolute had a kind of burbling heavy spicy mineral gardenia quality; the ruh is an entirely different strange beast - fruity juicy piercing tuberoseish singing high focused floral note. This is the type of juhi note that I smell in the Arjuna and the tuberose embers. I will try the Queen of Sheeba next.
LibraryOfPerfumes
Oud Fanatic
Hmmm, that makes me wonder if I am confusing ruh juhi with green/spicy tuberose… either way it smells marvelous!
Mr.P
oud<3er
Well it is a tuberose-type accord for sure... I just smell this one component to it that reminds me of my juhi stash.
Tuberose absolute is funny stuff because it doesn't really capture the more delicate aspects of the flower. I believe the enfleurage was a completely different aroma profile from what I have read much more like smelling the fresh flowers and with less of the green daffodil leaf/stem note.
I like the high sharp focused sweet note of tuberose perfumes... fracas is one that has a more straight tuberose scent (to me) but that is not a natural perfume.
LibraryOfPerfumes
Oud Fanatic
I agree with you on the tuberose in Fracas not being the real tuberose. I honestly cannot stand that ‘bubblegum’ like tuberose. In TE, I get the tuberose like it’s in Carnal Flower.
LibraryOfPerfumes
Oud Fanatic
Is the oud co-distilled with jasmine, cardamom and rose? Interesting!
Mr.P
oud<3er
I'm realizing it's been a while since I've smelled a good bouquet of tuberose. There is a small florist in my town I think I'm going to pay them a visit tomorrow and see about getting some.
Mr.P
oud<3er
Getting a few scents of the day posted here.... this is a ruh motia, one that is actually distilled. One awkward reality I have found when doing a little bit of digging that most of the "ruhs" of jasmine are solvent extracted absolutes.
This is specimen comes from hasayan perfumers, and I have experienced oil like this once before from wardlab who was also a Jasmine obsessed individual (and who had spent some time tracking down the authentic distilled material before I met him).
The aroma is exactly like the smell that you get in authentic sandal-motia attar but greatly concentrated. top notes are intense to the point of being almost solvent-like in some of the motia I have smelled, this one is a little bit less toppy than the last batch I smelled. This is batch three for me... two from Wardlab and one from hasayanperfumers. All three are quite similar and it's possible that Wardlab was getting his from this source based on the smell.
I don't see this as a substitute for the solvent extracted absolute which picks up some of the more delicate aspects of the flower and does not have the same fruity/stewed fruit note that the ruhs have. But this focuses one aspect of the samebac aroma without this thick heavy indole(?) note that sometimes comes from the absolutes.
![[Ouddict.com] Attar/Mukhallat of the Day](https://www.ouddict.com/attachments/img_5655-webp.45518/ "[Ouddict.com] Attar/Mukhallat of the Day")
This is specimen comes from hasayan perfumers, and I have experienced oil like this once before from wardlab who was also a Jasmine obsessed individual (and who had spent some time tracking down the authentic distilled material before I met him).
The aroma is exactly like the smell that you get in authentic sandal-motia attar but greatly concentrated. top notes are intense to the point of being almost solvent-like in some of the motia I have smelled, this one is a little bit less toppy than the last batch I smelled. This is batch three for me... two from Wardlab and one from hasayanperfumers. All three are quite similar and it's possible that Wardlab was getting his from this source based on the smell.
I don't see this as a substitute for the solvent extracted absolute which picks up some of the more delicate aspects of the flower and does not have the same fruity/stewed fruit note that the ruhs have. But this focuses one aspect of the samebac aroma without this thick heavy indole(?) note that sometimes comes from the absolutes.
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