Attar/Mukhallat of the Day

Peru Balsam Abs Extra
Payan Bertrand
Nice rich peru balsam, almost has an amber bouquet on its own - wonderful peculiar type of sweetness.
 
mesOUD said:
İ think new perfumes and blends are coming 👏
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Yes indeed - these purchases are in part a reinvestment of the sales I had here over the last month, very grateful for the support from this community.
 
The jasmine absolute that arrived today is the Payan Bertrand Jasmine absolute "extra" i have written about. This is the 3rd lot I have smelled. Each lot has been distinct - I wasn't sure what to expect, but there is enough difference from one to the next to be of interest (Different regions? Cultivars, Farmers? Fields? Annual differences? Beginning vs end of season?). One was distinctly lilac oriented, another had a hint of a violet leaf facet in the top notes. The latest is of a third type, no violet, less lilac, but with a beautiful ethereal aquatic quality to the top notes that brings distilled grandiflorum ottos to mind and also a familiar bouquet I have encountered in Egyptian jasmine absolute.

What all three of these have in common (and which I think reflects "extra" designation) is an unusually nice balance of notes - it's like the person selecting the oils was not prioritizing the batches being identical in profile - they were being selected for the harmonious balance of the various facets of the aroma.

I have a specimen from another source that is of the violet leafy type but it's distractingly strong. Another specimen I have is of the etheral aquatic type, but it is overblown and kind of shrill and not exactly pleasant. I have some other smooth absolutes with no violet or shrill notes and that are smoother like the lilac type, but they have too much indole, or are bland and muted.

These PB jasmines are a treat!
 
Mr.P said:
The jasmine absolute that arrived today is the Payan Bertrand Jasmine absolute "extra" i have written about. This is the 3rd lot I have smelled. Each lot has been distinct - I wasn't sure what to expect, but there is enough difference from one to the next to be of interest (Different regions? Cultivars, Farmers? Fields? Annual differences? Beginning vs end of season?). One was distinctly lilac oriented, another had a hint of a violet leaf facet in the top notes. The latest is of a third type, no violet, less lilac, but with a beautiful ethereal aquatic quality to the top notes that brings distilled grandiflorum ottos to mind and also a familiar bouquet I have encountered in Egyptian jasmine absolute.

What all three of these have in common (and which I think reflects "extra" designation) is an unusually nice balance of notes - it's like the person selecting the oils was not prioritizing the batches being identical in profile - they were being selected for the harmonious balance of the various facets of the aroma.

I have a specimen from another source that is of the violet leafy type but it's distractingly strong. Another specimen I have is of the etheral aquatic type, but it is overblown and kind of shrill and not exactly pleasant. I have some other smooth absolutes with no violet or shrill notes and that are smoother like the lilac type, but they have too much indole, or are bland and muted.

These PB jasmines are a treat!
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are they using the same method of for every iteration and are the flowers from the same place? i remember writing about this distinction somewhere on here with the difference of seasons impacting the final product significantly enough to note, this is particularly more sensitive in flowers.

I have noted this both with Jasmine and Rose. The exact same fields and the same method giving slightly different final products simply based on the season. The irony is we say simply, but the reality is a few mml of rain, and few more minutes of sun a day etc adds up over 12 months, which is true full cycle from one flower season to the next.
 
Al Shareef Oudh said:
are they using the same method of for every iteration and are the flowers from the same place? i remember writing about this distinction somewhere on here with the difference of seasons impacting the final product significantly enough to note, this is particularly more sensitive in flowers.

I have noted this both with Jasmine and Rose. The exact same fields and the same method giving slightly different final products simply based on the season. The irony is we say simply, but the reality is a few mml of rain, and few more minutes of sun a day etc adds up over 12 months, which is true full cycle from one flower season to the next.
Click to expand...

This is certainly a possibility, I wish there were some way to know. This lot is distinctly different - a particular smooth aquatic-fruity facet is more concentrated in the top notes of this one, a note that is prominent in my distilled oils (and Chaitman's grandiflorum distillates which he calls "emanation" oils).
 
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"Olibanum coeur" by Ventos is a nice frankincense oil to build a fragrance on. I recall a couple of people here seeking a frankincense that had a higher viscosity and was not completely mobile like water or citrus oils, and this fits that bill. It's not really a "complete" or perfect frank aroma (and I have never smelled an oil that is) - but this presents a nice collection of robust and reasonably long lasting frankincense notes in a nice viscous oil that balances tart, sweet sugary, and dry-resinous notes. This doesn't have a strong regional character to my nose - but according to Ventos the oil is from Boswellia carterii and it does bear some common notes (dry resinous type) with an old resinoid I have from carterii.
 
Tonka absolute from Firmenich. Like wet brown sugar - this is a very nice absolute with a beautiful clean coumarin character. Not especially toasty or roasted smelling like some other I have smelled.
[Ouddict.com] Attar/Mukhallat of the Day
 
Hello dear Ouddicts 😊
Hope you are well

Today I swiped some attars and it’s rare ^^ ( I am an Oud man )

An Najwa Ghaliya Banu Hashim
An Najwa Kishmir
An Najwa Qaswara

The Ghaliya is really beautiful with a robust Oud composition, you can’t missing the Oud base ! The rose is melted in the other Ingredients and I can guessing some musk and Ambregris cuz these two at the same place creating a special aura !
I am smelling like a cypress notes and an incensy lemony overtone ! This is warm and quite spicy !
I get a white chocolate accord during the dry down ! A true masculine Ghaliya to my nose !

The Kishmir is musky gourmand with a powdery perfumery scent ! I get caramel and brown sugar , cofee torréfaction with dark chocolate powder !
Very interesting…

Qaswara is an amazing scent with a evident Saffron focused aroma and it is absolutely Beautiful! It is satisfying and addicting! The smell is objectively pleasant with a watery sensation with a fresh sensation! I can’t saying what I am smelling but what I smell is sooo good and addicting… I think is unreleased .

These attars make me curious about Attar and I have to ouducating my nose to something else than just Oud 😅

Beautiful products! Beautiful discovery with An Najwa
 
SamiterkiW said:
Hello dear Ouddicts 😊
Hope you are well

Today I swiped some attars and it’s rare ^^ ( I am an Oud man )

An Najwa Ghaliya Banu Hashim
An Najwa Kishmir
An Najwa Qaswara

The Ghaliya is really beautiful with a robust Oud composition, you can’t missing the Oud base ! The rose is melted in the other Ingredients and I can guessing some musk and Ambregris cuz these two at the same place creating a special aura !
I am smelling like a cypress notes and an incensy lemony overtone ! This is warm and quite spicy !
I get a white chocolate accord during the dry down ! A true masculine Ghaliya to my nose !

The Kishmir is musky gourmand with a powdery perfumery scent ! I get caramel and brown sugar , cofee torréfaction with dark chocolate powder !
Very interesting…

Qaswara is an amazing scent with a evident Saffron focused aroma and it is absolutely Beautiful! It is satisfying and addicting! The smell is objectively pleasant with a watery sensation with a fresh sensation! I can’t saying what I am smelling but what I smell is sooo good and addicting… I think is unreleased .

These attars make me curious about Attar and I have to ouducating my nose to something else than just Oud 😅

Beautiful products! Beautiful discovery with An Najwa
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Wow
Honoured to hear this
May you enjoy every drop 😀

Qaswara is My take on Shamama
Macerated with Siberian musk, cardamom pods, Kashmiri Zafaran, Malabar Vanilla
 
Jaw dropping sambac oils from 2012 and 2013. So good and unique I don't know what to think. The ruh doesn't smell like it has been anywhere near a deg - must have been glass or some sanitary stainless still - not a trace of the standard ruh motia terroir. Both of these, but especially the CO2 select have the most lifelike and delicate aspects of the flower - those nuances so abundant in the live flowers but absent from ruhs and absolutes. I know that white lotus had good quality control and awesome suppliers, so no surprise they are beautiful, but the fact that they are both unusual and they both came from a particular vendor at a particular point in time makes me wonder what it is about them that makes them so different?

I am sending samples of these (along with other jasmines, roses, sandalwoods etc.. ) to @Loulikesoud to share the good smells and especially to get his perspective on the oils. Lou, I would especially like to get your thoughts on these two.

(By the way if I send/have sent any of you samples of anything, I am pretty much always looking forward to hearing your thoughts on them too, not just Lou's. 🙂 )

IMG_7125.jpeg
 
Mr.P said:
I stumbled on something fun today. I have this basic patchouli / tonka accord that I have been iterating for a while - I have about 25 different versions. I'd settled on one that was nice but the harmony was very much in the heart and base notes and the top notes were a little bit unconventional/ jarring. So I have been layering it with traces of different things for weeks, trying to find something that will harmonize with the top notes and yield quickly enough to allow the heart/base accord that I had already formulated to shine through.

Today i was trying rose oil and just due to physical clumsiness I layered with an excessive amount of it, making the rose dominant and swamping (mostly) the patchouli/ tonka blend.

To my surprise this combination is the solution to another problem that I had been tackling from a different angle: trying to reproduce the aroma of the leaves of sweetbriar (Rosa eglanteria) aka eglantine which is just a KILLER rose adjacent scent. What is unique about the species is the leaves are covered with sticky resin with a beautiful peppery and spicy aroma that is also quite rosey, and when the plant is in bloom the overall experience is just sublime.

Anyway the surprise is that this combination smells very much like sweetbrier, almost photorealistic - to the point where it reminded me of subtle nuances of the living plant that I had forgotten about altogether (and were not even part of my concept of the eglantine fragrance that I had been trying to develop separately).

I feel like this pairing is a complete Eglantine fragrance... totally unexpected and better than I had hoped to achieve through my deliberate attempts to make an Eglantine. I'm just shocked… there's still work to do but I just never expected to have this particular puzzle solved from these experiments. Feels like a small miracle... I keep double checking because it's hard to believe

I actually find the creative process of making perfume fascinating… I have learned a lot and I think about fragrances very differently than I did just a year ago. there are some very strange things about the process, I have all kinds of thoughts on that but maybe those are better for my Instagram because they're not really so much oud related, and they might be the kind of things that are only interesting if you're actually in the midst of doing the same thing.
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Congrats on your accident.
 
Al Shareef Oudh said:
are they using the same method of for every iteration and are the flowers from the same place? i remember writing about this distinction somewhere on here with the difference of seasons impacting the final product significantly enough to note, this is particularly more sensitive in flowers.

I have noted this both with Jasmine and Rose. The exact same fields and the same method giving slightly different final products simply based on the season. The irony is we say simply, but the reality is a few mml of rain, and few more minutes of sun a day etc adds up over 12 months, which is true full cycle from one flower season to the next.
Click to expand...
Where can you price and buy PB’s Eos and CO2? You have me intrigued.

Joe
 
Joe said:
Where can you price and buy PB’s Eos and CO2? You have me intrigued.

Joe
Click to expand...
fraterworks and perfumer supply house both carry Payan Bertrand oils. I have been happy with the PB oils - a cut above a lot of the competition to my nose.
 
Joe said:
I just discovered fraterworks looking for a synthetic, and I'm a frequent shopper at psh. I'm surprised I never noticed them. Thank you @Mr.P
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Sure thing! Fraterworks has some unusual natural materials, that is for sure. If you have money burning a hole in your pocket he's got a legit French jasmine absolute for about 400 and change per milliliter.
 
I got some jasmine oil on Thursday on the East coast of the US after ordering on Sunday! Last order took a week to ship due, was told it was due
to a holiday. Average is about 1 week from placing the order.
 
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