Attar/Mukhallat of the Day

Today I took a break from meddling with my ouds, and between errands focused on elegant green "arm" blend. It's quite hot today so I wanted something refreshing and herbal, nothing overly smoke-y or sweet.

- A slathering of An Najwa's Ruh Khus 2023
- That earlier mentioned mix of Thai Oud, Lavender and Cardamom, just a touch
- A touch of Isparta Country Rose, it's green and less pink smelling, also a bit more reserved yet has an almost dill like nuance when layered with Ruh Khus, making it more diffusive

I wanna make something with Ruh Khus, Lavender, Cardamom and Rose, but for the moment I didn't want to make it complicated so I skipped the indivial EO's and used the a blend of two of the components, which happens to bring oud to the show. I played around making a Sandalwood and Ruh Khus Ateeq blend, with a Borneo oud but I think I overdid the Patchouli, though having applied it just now it's meddling together better than I remember. It's very balmy and green but something ... maybe a bit of sweetness is missing idk. What I've learned, Patchouli really overwhelms Ruh Khus which can overwhelm rose (Ruhs not absolutes), I wonder if the same can be said about Jasmine Sambac CO2 for example 🤔 Maybe even resorting to vanilla, because I need a sweet base note to fight with the oddness I find in the my patchouli. Could be a use for the frangapani oils I have 🤔 Or some sweet oud I've been tinkering with perhaps Khao Yai with Rose ....

My goal is to have a giant batch of this, not to sell but to use myself, and have it be a reproducible combination of affordable oils, kinda like a oil version of a cologne (light and something I apply without thinking too deeply).
 
Mr.P said:
I'm just enjoying the heck out of patchouli in general. In particular I am just super super happy to have some good quality contemporary oils to back up the vintage ones in my collection. Was wearing some more of this particular Sumatra patch I have been testing out and it is so freaking good. Just beautiful rich suave smooth woody/musky/earthy dry down. Paradise.
Click to expand...
I have experience with 15 years old dark patchouli , this oil being kept in iron VAT for so long only opened by us few weeks ago ( 60 kg of it ) in the beginning there was a smell that resembles citrus , so i apply the technique that we did to treat fresh distilled sandalwood oil ( high pressure distillation) we got some sample of aged patchouli and put it on the bottle , let it open for few weeks and expose little a bit to sun light and voila , my 15 years old patchouli now smells exactly like you describe !
 
Margon said:
I have experience with 15 years old dark patchouli , this oil being kept in iron VAT for so long only opened by us few weeks ago ( 60 kg of it ) in the beginning there was a smell that resembles citrus , so i apply the technique that we did to treat fresh distilled sandalwood oil ( high pressure distillation) we got some sample of aged patchouli and put it on the bottle , let it open for few weeks and expose little a bit to sun light and voila , my 15 years old patchouli now smells exactly like you describe !
Click to expand...

Sounds fantastic. 60 kg drum - wow! You definitely have good patchouli, hope I can arrange to smell some of that!
 
This Jasmine grandiflorum absolute from liberty is interesting. I felt there was some thing a little off in the top notes but not too bad and mainly noticeable when sniffing closely... an unusual balance with some green banana-like facets a little more noticeable than usual. This is backed by a sweet floral linalool-rich heart, and some beautiful mysterious sophisticated accords shifting in and out of focus. Don't remember when I got this... I would guess it's about a year to a year and a half old this point. Not quite top grade but with some very beautiful notes to it nonetheless. Something I would be happy to wear or blend with.
 

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After a long time of not being on this platform i decided to share my go to for relaxation. But keep in mind that there a several other beautiful combinations and materials.

Saffron infused Mysore sandalwood oils with a little little kiss of rose

This combination always calms me down and puts me in a state of tranquility.

And I am looking forward to see some of you guys at the OudIbento event inshaAllah
 
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I was reading a conversation between @Olfactory Nomad and @Kabir Attars and Kabir recommended a strong floral note to balance out a maceration Olfactory Nomad has and I took that as inspiration to add some Jasmine Malaccensis from An Najwa. This is a super powerful Hindi oud macerated with jasmine and ambergris and Siberian musk. It's super candy like at the top and I knew if anything could tame the patchouli like I needed, it would be this jasmine.

The result? So it's been two days and the first day after I added a drop, the patchouli was already mending its ways. I wanted the balmy minty notes with the deep earthy facets, because I wanted those to come from the sweeter Ruh Khus which was about 70 ish percent of this attar. Now on day 2 it's continuing to keep the patch funk at bay. I'm immediately able to notice aspects of the Ruh Khus become more prominent, I was smiling when I made this observation, a drop of this jasmine attar was enough to subdue 4 drops of patchouli, and essentially get me back to the point prior to having added it 😂. In the deep dry down I'm able to notice the sandalwood more clearly.

So far it's been a success, I don't want anything else to this, but I'm patiently awaiting the 10 day mark and then the 30 day mark for stability. I've learned the level of roughness a strong floral can smooth out, but next I have to try playing around with just patchouli and jasmine. Sweetening the patchouli does take away some of the minty nuance, but by this point the Ruh Khus should be ready to shine, propped up by the sandalwood, which seems to be happening.

Today it's very much in the vein of a Majmua crossed with Polo Green, and I'm keeping my hopes up for this. Best of all, the addition of jasmine as shifted the "temperature" of this blend to being cooler, very much needed after the patch made this feel almost too hot for a summer scent.
 
Nectar Myanmar - @melkhaldi and @AlHind Oud collaboration.

Intensely floral, a kind of classic perfume accord right behind a bright tuberose top, feels sophisticated, there is a distinct animalic vibe right below / at the surface. Nice work! Smells like something someone well dressed would wear for a night on the town. For whatever reason I find this completely feminine. Not sure if it is or not!
 
Ahmaoud said:
Today I took a break from meddling with my ouds, and between errands focused on elegant green "arm" blend. It's quite hot today so I wanted something refreshing and herbal, nothing overly smoke-y or sweet.

- A slathering of An Najwa's Ruh Khus 2023
- That earlier mentioned mix of Thai Oud, Lavender and Cardamom, just a touch
- A touch of Isparta Country Rose, it's green and less pink smelling, also a bit more reserved yet has an almost dill like nuance when layered with Ruh Khus, making it more diffusive

I wanna make something with Ruh Khus, Lavender, Cardamom and Rose, but for the moment I didn't want to make it complicated so I skipped the indivial EO's and used the a blend of two of the components, which happens to bring oud to the show. I played around making a Sandalwood and Ruh Khus Ateeq blend, with a Borneo oud but I think I overdid the Patchouli, though having applied it just now it's meddling together better than I remember. It's very balmy and green but something ... maybe a bit of sweetness is missing idk. What I've learned, Patchouli really overwhelms Ruh Khus which can overwhelm rose (Ruhs not absolutes), I wonder if the same can be said about Jasmine Sambac CO2 for example 🤔 Maybe even resorting to vanilla, because I need a sweet base note to fight with the oddness I find in the my patchouli. Could be a use for the frangapani oils I have 🤔 Or some sweet oud I've been tinkering with perhaps Khao Yai with Rose ....

My goal is to have a giant batch of this, not to sell but to use myself, and have it be a reproducible combination of affordable oils, kinda like a oil version of a cologne (light and something I apply without thinking too deeply).
Click to expand...
As it happens, I’ve combined Isparta Rose oil from Oud Stories with Nepalese aged Oud from Mohammed AlQurashi. The fruitiness of the Oud blends well with floral notes of the rose oil.
 
Ahmaoud said:
Today I took a break from meddling with my ouds, and between errands focused on elegant green "arm" blend. It's quite hot today so I wanted something refreshing and herbal, nothing overly smoke-y or sweet.

- A slathering of An Najwa's Ruh Khus 2023
- That earlier mentioned mix of Thai Oud, Lavender and Cardamom, just a touch
- A touch of Isparta Country Rose, it's green and less pink smelling, also a bit more reserved yet has an almost dill like nuance when layered with Ruh Khus, making it more diffusive

I wanna make something with Ruh Khus, Lavender, Cardamom and Rose, but for the moment I didn't want to make it complicated so I skipped the indivial EO's and used the a blend of two of the components, which happens to bring oud to the show. I played around making a Sandalwood and Ruh Khus Ateeq blend, with a Borneo oud but I think I overdid the Patchouli, though having applied it just now it's meddling together better than I remember. It's very balmy and green but something ... maybe a bit of sweetness is missing idk. What I've learned, Patchouli really overwhelms Ruh Khus which can overwhelm rose (Ruhs not absolutes), I wonder if the same can be said about Jasmine Sambac CO2 for example 🤔 Maybe even resorting to vanilla, because I need a sweet base note to fight with the oddness I find in the my patchouli. Could be a use for the frangapani oils I have 🤔 Or some sweet oud I've been tinkering with perhaps Khao Yai with Rose ....

My goal is to have a giant batch of this, not to sell but to use myself, and have it be a reproducible combination of affordable oils, kinda like a oil version of a cologne (light and something I apply without thinking too deeply).
Click to expand...
What about a touch of a different rose, or patchouli or sandalwood? Not enough to mess with the balance but just give it a push. I find sandalwood and patchouli together give sweetness to what ever I put them next to. Maybe a mini accord of alternate patch, rose, sandal to help support the main players? The barest hint of sweet basil for herby sweet greenery?
 
Shiningrobes said:
What about a touch of a different rose, or patchouli or sandalwood? Not enough to mess with the balance but just give it a push. I find sandalwood and patchouli together give sweetness to what ever I put them next to. Maybe a mini accord of alternate patch, rose, sandal to help support the main players? The barest hint of sweet basil for herby sweet greenery?
Click to expand...
So I actually found a way to fix the composition (mentioned in my post after that earlier one), and it's still within the 10 day window but smelling it today, it's keeping it's new identity instead of letting the older trample all over it.

I think of patchouli oils more as absolute, when compared to rose oils. For that reason I want to acquire some rose and lavender absolutes because the oils of these are very sharp, energetic and to a major extent, lack sweetness. The composition was already about 30 percent sandalwood, an NTT sandalwood to be specific, mesOud's third batch. I'll have to play around with sandalwood and patchouli, I just feel like the latter really destroyed any nuance the sandalwood had. That being said, patch oil on a nice sandalwood incense stick, is truly something otherworldly, have to thank Mr. P for recommending that once! Patch, rose and sandalwood would definitely be next on my list of blends to try but again, with the absolute, these high pitched essential oils are robbing the mid of my blends, something rose absolute might be able to bring forth. Sweet basil I'll have to acquire some soon!

I'm also not able to wear rose oil on my skin anymore it seems, so I either apply it with thick swipes of oud or ruh khus or simply apply it to my clothes.
 
mobyus said:
As it happens, I’ve combined Isparta Rose oil from Oud Stories with Nepalese aged Oud from Mohammed AlQurashi. The fruitiness of the Oud blends well with floral notes of the rose oil.
Click to expand...
I was just eyeing that oil from Mohammed AlQuershi, they seem to have sale going on which makes it more tempting! On skin the blend feels so unique, completely different to when you add rose directly into an oud oil, I'm not sure what's up with that.

Also thank you for the wonderfully detailed and honest reviews, I was tempted by the Aged Royal Cambodi they had but I remembered your review, and steered clear of it!
 
Alhindoud - Ghaliyah. A first for me getting my nose on such a well put together blend. Honestly though, I think it's made me biased because I can't imagine anything along these lines smelling better than this and if there is I don't want to know about it. With the list of ingredients, I'm not surprised. All made and distilled and blended by a master. Layering it raises it to another height. It seems to work with lots of things. It's been my habit to combine it with Alamgir 1 but today I'm sharing it with Malay Kristal and it's incredible.
 
Ahmaoud said:
So I actually found a way to fix the composition (mentioned in my post after that earlier one), and it's still within the 10 day window but smelling it today, it's keeping it's new identity instead of letting the older trample all over it.

I think of patchouli oils more as absolute, when compared to rose oils. For that reason I want to acquire some rose and lavender absolutes because the oils of these are very sharp, energetic and to a major extent, lack sweetness. The composition was already about 30 percent sandalwood, an NTT sandalwood to be specific, mesOud's third batch. I'll have to play around with sandalwood and patchouli, I just feel like the latter really destroyed any nuance the sandalwood had. That being said, patch oil on a nice sandalwood incense stick, is truly something otherworldly, have to thank Mr. P for recommending that once! Patch, rose and sandalwood would definitely be next on my list of blends to try but again, with the absolute, these high pitched essential oils are robbing the mid of my blends, something rose absolute might be able to bring forth. Sweet basil I'll have to acquire some soon!

I'm also not able to wear rose oil on my skin anymore it seems, so I either apply it with thick swipes of oud or ruh khus or simply apply it to my clothes.
Click to expand...

Thanks for sharing! Patchouli/rose is a great and classic combo, not unlike oud/rose, sorta. I definitely like to mix rose eo/otto with rose absolute or rose attar to soften the former, and to add softer, spicy, woody notes. I also use the best rose geranium absolute I can find to bridge the two. Mix that rose accord with a dark aged patchouli (and maybe some nagarmotha, musk, oud, and/or sandalwood) and you have a great, simple perfume. Oh, and a bit of saffron.

Now I'm tempted to make something tonight...
 
Marwan Faruq said:
Thanks for sharing! Patchouli/rose is a great and classic combo, not unlike oud/rose, sorta. I definitely like to mix rose eo/otto with rose absolute or rose attar to soften the former, and to add softer, spicy, woody notes. I also use the best rose geranium absolute I can find to bridge the two. Mix that rose accord with a dark aged patchouli (and maybe some nagarmotha, musk, oud, and/or sandalwood) and you have a great, simple perfume. Oh, and a bit of saffron.

Now I'm tempted to make something tonight...
Click to expand...
You've got me salivating here, just reading through that, I can almost smell the different components coming together! I won't be able to get anything else for a while (made a big purchase today, perhaps unwisely but the offer was too good to be missed!), but what I'll use in place for the rose absolute and/or the rose accord is KyaraZen/Kangiiten's Kangii Attar, which is essentially a complete rose and touch of sandalwood composition. I need to expand my patchouli options, most I've smelled haven't been "loves" for me. There's a chocolately aspect to Patchouli I can't get onboard with. I know many feel the same way about my beloved Ruh Khus (in terms of other aspects they don't like), but the absence of that note, and how much I have of it makes it an easier choice :Laugh: Nagarmotha's scary, I smelled some I got from mesOud a while back, and I was like ... this could easily fool people in to thinking its oud 🤯Also at least with the patchouli I have, adding nagarmotha would be overkill in my mind. The sandalwood I used in this has musk macerating it in now so adding musk will be a breeze. I seldom consider using saffron, I need to change that!

I should be the one thanking you for your posts Marwan! It was your mentioning this cooling lavender absolute which has been top of my mind ever since. It was lavender and not lavandin absolute, correct?
Mr.P said:
Isn't that just wonderful? 🙂 🙂
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It has no right being that wonderful together, speaking of which, it might be time to experience it once again!
mobyus said:
I’m just mixing and matching through trial and error. After a few hours, woke up abruptly. Both scents from the rose and the Nepali are gone. So swiped some Thai Oud oil from Oud Factory. Their oils are top notch. Earthy, woody and muddy with slight spice.
Click to expand...
Best way in my eyes, gives you a lot of control and you can introduce different notes at different parts of the scent dry down, something which I have a very difficult time making sense of in blending. Like I want to activate the note at certain delays (or lags if you're a stats person) from the start, not just have it all being altered.
 
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