Sanctum Aureum - Lupus & Vega - When I heard the vision for this fragrance was to capture the scent of luxury Japanese incense I was both immediately excited and apprehensive. It's a tall order, some say it's the ultimate goal of perfumery, to capture beautifully made incense into a wearable form, and it has been attempted. Often times those renditions veer into individual aspects of incense, such as being overly sweet, almost syrupy, or being incredibly woody and sharp, or they might lean into a more balsamic peppery vanillic dry down. What they all miss is the wispiness of incense smoke, and how as it lingers in one place, it slowly imparts a level of sweetness, spice and herbal elements, without every being overwhelming.

So how does Sanctum Aureum get over this hurdle, well it uses the ingenious choice of crafting a fizziness in the top. It utilized a hint of pepper, molded with the citrus facets of frankincense, and other resins, and perhaps some citrus-y florals. When I say pepperiness here, it's very mild, and perfectly balanced with the other elements, to give a sinus clearing sort of coolness, now it's not over done, and you'll get hints of a herbal green mixed in with this, which from the moment you sniff this from the cap, will make you fall in love with it!

Where does it go from here? It starts to lean into the sweeter, balsamic resinous notes, think benzoin but it's not just that. A herbal green tinge is somehow still here, and while at times the scent feels like it's gotten a lot weaker, deeper inhales will expose you to different elements, such as a whisper of the top sans any pepper, but somehow airy and expansive feeling. The sweetness is never overwhelming, and its perhaps due to an expert use of florals which cut through the heavy vanillic denseness of benzoin, and also impart a sense of cleanliness to this stage of the scent. While it remain a light scent, in terms of notes, it's by no means difficult to smell or vanished at this point, it's there but in an elegant, reserved sort of way.

The late dry down of this scent finally starts to showcase the wonderful Mysore sandalwood used here, but it's not quite what you'd get sniffing it neat. There's no milkiness here, yet a combination of florals and resins come together to form a sweet base, which is seriously hard to get off your skin! Yet again the sweetness isn't overdone, I can't stress this enough, if it was, I would have a tough liking this scent, but I've had the opposite problem! It's now that a strange note starts to comes out, not unpleasant but so surprising that I was take a back. A leather-y musky note starts to pop its head every now and again, contrasting the calm sweetness with an additional level of bitterness. It's so good that you'll find yourself mesmerized by it, even compared to the rest of scent, there's an almost bewitching quality to this dry down!

Spectacular blend you've got here @Joe , no one element ever truly dominates the scent, which somehow allows you to play into all the different facets of what incense smoke is like, but with this balance which makes picking individual notes out exceedingly difficult, easier just apply and let the scent take you alongside it throughout your day!
 
Sanctum Aureum - Lupus & Vega - When I heard the vision for this fragrance was to capture the scent of luxury Japanese incense I was both immediately excited and apprehensive. It's a tall order, some say it's the ultimate goal of perfumery, to capture beautifully made incense into a wearable form, and it has been attempted. Often times those renditions veer into individual aspects of incense, such as being overly sweet, almost syrupy, or being incredibly woody and sharp, or they might lean into a more balsamic peppery vanillic dry down. What they all miss is the wispiness of incense smoke, and how as it lingers in one place, it slowly imparts a level of sweetness, spice and herbal elements, without every being overwhelming.

So how does Sanctum Aureum get over this hurdle, well it uses the ingenious choice of crafting a fizziness in the top. It utilized a hint of pepper, molded with the citrus facets of frankincense, and other resins, and perhaps some citrus-y florals. When I say pepperiness here, it's very mild, and perfectly balanced with the other elements, to give a sinus clearing sort of coolness, now it's not over done, and you'll get hints of a herbal green mixed in with this, which from the moment you sniff this from the cap, will make you fall in love with it!

Where does it go from here? It starts to lean into the sweeter, balsamic resinous notes, think benzoin but it's not just that. A herbal green tinge is somehow still here, and while at times the scent feels like it's gotten a lot weaker, deeper inhales will expose you to different elements, such as a whisper of the top sans any pepper, but somehow airy and expansive feeling. The sweetness is never overwhelming, and its perhaps due to an expert use of florals which cut through the heavy vanillic denseness of benzoin, and also impart a sense of cleanliness to this stage of the scent. While it remain a light scent, in terms of notes, it's by no means difficult to smell or vanished at this point, it's there but in an elegant, reserved sort of way.

The late dry down of this scent finally starts to showcase the wonderful Mysore sandalwood used here, but it's not quite what you'd get sniffing it neat. There's no milkiness here, yet a combination of florals and resins come together to form a sweet base, which is seriously hard to get off your skin! Yet again the sweetness isn't overdone, I can't stress this enough, if it was, I would have a tough liking this scent, but I've had the opposite problem! It's now that a strange note starts to comes out, not unpleasant but so surprising that I was take a back. A leather-y musky note starts to pop its head every now and again, contrasting the calm sweetness with an additional level of bitterness. It's so good that you'll find yourself mesmerized by it, even compared to the rest of scent, there's an almost bewitching quality to this dry down!

Spectacular blend you've got here @Joe , no one element ever truly dominates the scent, which somehow allows you to play into all the different facets of what incense smoke is like, but with this balance which makes picking individual notes out exceedingly difficult, easier just apply and let the scent take you alongside it throughout your day!
I am honored by your writing. Thank you.
 
Kashan rose, Siberian musk, Ceylon sandalwood.
I’m trying to recreate the attar I made with the same ingredients. I unfortunately didn’t write down the amounts, and the original bottle was sent as a gift to a friend so I no longer have a reference except my memory. It was so perfectly balanced, smelling it you’d never be able to know what the ingredients were, it was very creamy, sweet, musky floral, but not in a way that my says “this is rose musk and sandal”

Current iteration is 10% of Siberian musk macerated in Kashan rose at 10%, and 90% nutty creamy Ceylon sandalwood. I’ll doubly the rose/musk and see how it turns.
 
Kashan rose, Siberian musk, Ceylon sandalwood.
I’m trying to recreate the attar I made with the same ingredients. I unfortunately didn’t write down the amounts, and the original bottle was sent as a gift to a friend so I no longer have a reference except my memory. It was so perfectly balanced, smelling it you’d never be able to know what the ingredients were, it was very creamy, sweet, musky floral, but not in a way that my says “this is rose musk and sandal”

Current iteration is 10% of Siberian musk macerated in Kashan rose at 10%, and 90% nutty creamy Ceylon sandalwood. I’ll doubly the rose/musk and see how it turns.
It sounds like you're using some quality materials and having a good time blending! Play is an important aspect Th to the listening of Japanese incense, and let’s do that here!

Yours,
Joe
 
Ruh al Amber-Oudologie

Only a bit spicy, much more herbaceous. It smells like a bouquet garni that has just been taken out. In the background there is a very slight medicinal sweetness like cough syrup. There is also a slight leather, not like car interior, but rather like a well worn leather wallet. Not the longest lasting wear, but an enjoyable one for sure.
 
Ruh al Amber-Oudologie

Only a bit spicy, much more herbaceous. It smells like a bouquet garni that has just been taken out. In the background there is a very slight medicinal sweetness like cough syrup. There is also a slight leather, not like car interior, but rather like a well worn leather wallet. Not the longest lasting wear, but an enjoyable one for sure.
Its hard getting all naturals to last all day. Even ouds. So I understand.
 
EO - Iris Noir Maroke

Starts off with an acidic opening of orris. Followed by a pungent Japanese rose Otto. With a heart of spices, buttery Sandalwood, and bottom of Maroke. Magic!
Oh, @mobyus or @Mr.P (you know everything, hence the tag!) -- what is the odor profile of "Japanese" rose Otto? I've never smelled it before--just white rose Otto and regular rose Otto. I'm using a rose otto in a blend/experiment. Should I try the Japanese version? My composition is an amber-based work.

Looking forward to your responses!

Yours,
Joe
 
Oh, @mobyus or @Mr.P (you know everything, hence the tag!) -- what is the odor profile of "Japanese" rose Otto? I've never smelled it before--just white rose Otto and regular rose Otto. I'm using a rose otto in a blend/experiment. Should I try the Japanese version? My composition is an amber-based work.

Looking forward to your responses!

Yours,
Joe
This is almost certainly Rosa rugosa oil. I had one bottle of rugosa absolute. A bit more of an apple like presence, less citrus is my recollection. I don't know if the specimen that I had was typical or not.
 
Oh, @mobyus or @Mr.P (you know everything, hence the tag!) -- what is the odor profile of "Japanese" rose Otto? I've never smelled it before--just white rose Otto and regular rose Otto. I'm using a rose otto in a blend/experiment. Should I try the Japanese version? My composition is an amber-based work.

Looking forward to your responses!

Yours,
Joe
hey Joe,

It feels more leafy and acidic. Less on the rose as we know it profile and more fresh and spicy side.
 
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A small whiff of white pine eau de cologne (literally nothing but white pine needle oil in alcohol). Delicious, brings in some of the notes of the wood oil but with all of this green mouthwatering stuff. I love pine needle oil
 
Kashan rose, Siberian musk, Ceylon sandalwood.
I’m trying to recreate the attar I made with the same ingredients. I unfortunately didn’t write down the amounts, and the original bottle was sent as a gift to a friend so I no longer have a reference except my memory. It was so perfectly balanced, smelling it you’d never be able to know what the ingredients were, it was very creamy, sweet, musky floral, but not in a way that my says “this is rose musk and sandal”

Current iteration is 10% of Siberian musk macerated in Kashan rose at 10%, and 90% nutty creamy Ceylon sandalwood. I’ll doubly the rose/musk and see how it turns.
Doubled the rose musk maceration and now it’s closer to perfect
80% sandal 20% rose musk maceration
 
HJ Mrs. Y
Yes it is on the feminine side, yes it is soapy, but once you in the 30 minutes mark it is a glorious chypre unisex perfume. I can see why some people will recognize it as the best scent ever, it is so beautiful, so high quality and uplifting. This and Auphorie's Miyako could be the only 2 feminine perfumes that I'd wear with no hesitation.
 
Kashan rose, Siberian musk, Ceylon sandalwood.
I’m trying to recreate the attar I made with the same ingredients. I unfortunately didn’t write down the amounts, and the original bottle was sent as a gift to a friend so I no longer have a reference except my memory. It was so perfectly balanced, smelling it you’d never be able to know what the ingredients were, it was very creamy, sweet, musky floral, but not in a way that my says “this is rose musk and sandal”

Current iteration is 10% of Siberian musk macerated in Kashan rose at 10%, and 90% nutty creamy Ceylon sandalwood. I’ll doubly the rose/musk and see how it turns.
sounds very nice, a classic! I'm making an amber with rose and musk today. So good luck on that memory!
 
sounds very nice, a classic! I'm making an amber with rose and musk today. So good luck on that memory!
I’ll do that next inshallah with Kyrgyzstan musk. What will your percentages be? And is it white or brown ambergris? I recon dark amber won’t work that well.
 
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I’ll do that next inshallah with Kyrgyzstan musk. What will your percentages be? And is it white or brown ambergris? I recon dark amber won’t work that well.
Well, I don't want to reveal my formula, I worked hard on it, experimenting and getting it right. But I will tell you I am using a 20-year-old Ambergris Tincture, White/Gold (3%). Just enough to be below the level of perception. And I'm using a 4% musk tincture that's older. You don't need anything more than 4% unless your materials aren't so great.
 
Well, I don't want to reveal my formula, I worked hard on it, experimenting and getting it right. But I will tell you I am using a 20-year-old Ambergris Tincture, White/Gold (3%). Just enough to be below the level of perception. And I'm using a 4% musk tincture that's older. You don't need anything more than 4% unless your materials aren't so great.
Oh I thought you macerating it directly in rose. How will you get rid of the alcohol after the tinctures addition?
I’ve done it before with a musk tincture, and even with leaving the cap open for a month, the oud still had an alcohol scent, faint but present.
It’ll need a stirrer and a little heating, but rose is very sensitive. So I’m curious how you’ll address that.
 
AlKhudair Oud - Henry Jacques Oud

I’m chasing the elusive Henry Jacques Bonjour for Men fragrance after sampling it, it destroyed me forever when it comes to perfumes. It was perfect.

I remembered that AlKhudair carried an Oud with the same name. No details on its site. No details about any collaboration. I assumed it would be a heavy Oud with notes of HJ.

It turns out it consists of more of a fluid fragrance than Oud. Rendering it a mukhallat.

It has a woody, citrus, star anise, bergamot top. A slightly animalic, cinnamon, clove, and Christmas-y heart. And an oudy rose bottom. It is simply beautiful. It’s perfect for combining with other fragrances or Ouds or rose oils.

I’m really happy with this buy as it was a risky buy. Either it was going to satisfy me or not. No middle.
[Ouddict.com] Attar/Mukhallat of the Day
 
Oh I thought you macerating it directly in rose. How will you get rid of the alcohol after the tinctures addition?
I’ve done it before with a musk tincture, and even with leaving the cap open for a month, the oud still had an alcohol scent, faint but present.
It’ll need a stirrer and a little heating, but rose is very sensitive. So I’m curious how you’ll address that.
"It’ll need a stirrer and a little heating, but rose is very sensitive. So I’m curious how you’ll address that."

My stirrer also heats, which burns off the alcohol. Alcohol is very volatile, much more so than rose or even rose otto. Volatile solvents such as petroleum ether, hexane, and benzene are washed away when making absolutes, which are used generously in attars. You have to track what temperature your beaker contents are at.
 
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