Attar/Mukhallat of the Day

And another from @An Najwa - the "Majmua Noir" is a beautifully balanced scent. Every time I've smelled it I've been drawn in, this one works really well with my sense of smell and preferences. Probably the most appealing ruh khus centered scent I have smelled - all kinds of delicious balanced notes surrounding this really especially nice wild green khus core. Sweetened with florals, especially jasmine I believe, with a perfect balance between rooty / earthy and sweet floral. Highly recommend this one! 🤩

I just accidentally layered this with a little bit of the Aligarh rose and that is beautiful as well.
 
mesOUD Begum OG II

I missed out on Begum and the first Begum OG, so I was pretty excited to try this.

I wasn’t sure what to expect. Throughout my time messing with oud, I have always enjoyed co-swiping oud and rose, but I knew this was going to be something completely different. At the same time, I wasn’t sure if the rose hydrosol would make the finished product smell particularly rosy, or if it was going to be something more subliminal.

The first swipe was a curveball…there is indeed a certain rosiness to the opening, but it’s dark and almost baroque; sweetish, but not at all pink or citrusy like a rose otto. I struggled to put my finger on what it reminded me of at first…then it struck me: Turkish delight - the rose-water kind.

After that, it moves in a coppery, zingy direction, and the rich, woody base comes to dominate. This deep, dusty, almost slightly smoky woodiness reminds me a lot of Assagon. Much of the same intense, woody character from Assagon is present here, and I think I’m going to enjoy comparing the two while my stock lasts. As the oil dries down, the oud’s natural sweetness starts to move into focus, and we end with this subtly sweet, zingy, complex woody character that keeps your hand welded to your nose.

Sorry for the essay. It’s not news that oud and rose go well together, but this codistill concept is a such a winner🥇 Makes me wonder what a codistill with whole flowers or petals would be like.

[Ouddict.com] Attar/Mukhallat of the Day
 
Old style non-ifra oakmoss oil is an UNREAL material. It is maybe the most transformative substance I have encountered in perfume making. Produces seemingly impossible accords with other naturals, unreal tenacity and ability to change the impact / impression of things it combines with.
 
One of my own macerations today which is 25% by weight Siberian grains in Habz Fawz and Yusa 1995 Mysore.

At 9 months, I think this is where I want it - any improvement from here will be a bonus. Feels like it hasn’t changed much in the last couple of months.

Raunchy musk with chocolatey, coffee, earthy vibes. The white-woodiness from the sandal has dialled itself down now and is smoother. Happy with how this one turned out.

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Amouage - Tribute Attar

It has a really runny consistency. I’m getting Taifi rose notes but it’s toned down by the saffron, frankincense and patchouli. There is lovely bitterness brought on by the vetiver. Which I would imagine is also helping to tone down the (sometimes) overly sweet nature of the rose 🌹. The use of jasmine in this attar is just perfect as it’s not too overbearing nor underutilized. The way the scent evolves on the skin is just magical. It potentiates all of the ingredients’ scent. Really beautiful attar.
 

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Oak moss is once again the focus of wonder for me. Extraordinary fixative. I have a fresher batch of Yugoslavian green oak moss absolute from Fraterworks that is interesting - a solid paste. The real beauty though is a specimen I got back in the 90s - a beautiful oil with a deep appeal on an entirely different level than the FW oil, which is a bit duller and less engaging in scent. The old stuff is a thick, very sticky liquid, with a profoundly beautiful dry and resinous oak moss aroma. I have no idea if this is the effect of time or it was just made from better starting material. Both "work" just fine however and bring a resinous lichen aroma that captures and releases the scent of things mixed or layered with it in truly surprising ways. There is nothing else quite like it.
 
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mobyus said:
Amouage - Tribute Attar

It has a really runny consistency. I’m getting Taifi rose notes but it’s toned down by the saffron, frankincense and patchouli. There is lovely bitterness brought on by the vetiver. Which I would imagine is also helping to tone down the (sometimes) overly sweet nature of the rose 🌹. The use of jasmine in this attar is just perfect as it’s not too overbearing nor underutilized. The way the scent evolves on the skin is just magical. It potentiates all of the ingredients’ scent. Really beautiful attar.
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I miss this and Hommage. I simply can't find them anywhere. I know I didn't sell them!
 
Enjoying some red indica rose otto from Hasayan village in Uttar Pradesh. A very interesting type of Rose, I find it's aroma to be quite full and engaging with minimal off notes, and unusually good duration on skin. At full strength the top note has a tad of bitterness to it but it's not unpleasant, and most of my ottos are overpowering to me in a similar way at 100% concentration.

This is a deg distilled ruh with a very nice full saturated aroma balancing the geranium and citrus facets. There is this full apple like aroma that I'm noticing today for the first time - if you press your nose into the anthers of Rosa rugosa, like stick your nose right down in there in the flower, there's this beautiful chewy apple like quality and I'm picking up a bit of that in this which makes me happy. It's a level of realism I don't always get in rose otto. Bright, diffusive, natural smelling rose, what a treat
 
Trying out a vintage Mukhammaria made in 2007, so get a kind of reference and perspective. It contains Oud oil, saffron, Muhallab, sambac, narcissus, Hina, civet, musk, and kewra.
Starts off metallic and floral, then goes into the narcotic and saffron notes without too much heaviness or creamy notes, the kewra cuts through nicely.
I was thinking of using it in my own Mukhammaria as an ingredient/accord but unfortunately 1. It doesn’t smell as good as I expected for a vintage Mukhammaria, in fact my first trial at making a Mukhammaria is far better than this vintage one. 2. Im pretty sure that the base is synthetic, and there’s synthetic musk in it. So I’ll have to shelf it , and work on my own instead.
 
Mr.P said:
Enjoying some red indica rose otto from Hasayan village in Uttar Pradesh. A very interesting type of Rose, I find it's aroma to be quite full and engaging with minimal off notes, and unusually good duration on skin. At full strength the top note has a tad of bitterness to it but it's not unpleasant, and most of my ottos are overpowering to me in a similar way at 100% concentration.

This is a deg distilled ruh with a very nice full saturated aroma balancing the geranium and citrus facets. There is this full apple like aroma that I'm noticing today for the first time - if you press your nose into the anthers of Rosa rugosa, like stick your nose right down in there in the flower, there's this beautiful chewy apple like quality and I'm picking up a bit of that in this which makes me happy. It's a level of realism I don't always get in rose otto. Bright, diffusive, natural smelling rose, what a treat
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With red rose you got those green slightly bitter notes of banana leaf too which I love. It’s a nice different profile from the normal Ruh Gulab. Not everyone’s cup of tea, but I like it
 
ll
Saudalhajri said:
With red rose you got those green slightly bitter notes of banana leaf too which I love. It’s a nice different profile from the normal Ruh Gulab. Not everyone’s cup of tea, but I like it
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Banana leaf isn't one I am familiar with but I agree it is different from damascena ruhs, and now I have another fragrance to look forward to checking out!
 
Mr.P said:
ll

Banana leaf isn't one I am familiar with but I agree it is different from damascena ruhs, and now I have another fragrance to look forward to checking out!
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It’s a sort of green vegetal bittersweet slightly creamy note, I see it close to banana leaf, or maybe peels of green underripe bananas. At least that’s how I describe it. It’s not a strong smell.
 
Tonkin Khus - EO
Got this quite generous (for Ensar) sample, and I must say I’m impressed. Starts off with grassy-green vetiver notes, but very quickly pivots to spicy and peppery, with the musk lending a softening, golden glow. It’s slightly sweet - reminds me vaguely of pain d’épices or something like that. I really like this, and I’m sorely tempted to buy some, although it isn’t cheap. Makes me wonder what kind of vetiver would be best for such a maceration.
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Been enjoying some true ruh motia - deg distilled jasmine sambac. The word ruh these days is used for both absolutes and distilled oils, so it's important to clarify because I've smelled a lot of ruh motia that was the solvent extracted kind.

The distilled material very much carries the signature of the fact that it was a product of distillation, and while it's a very concentrated and punchy sambac oil, the top notes are somewhat modified by the fact that the flowers are basically cooked in the process of being distilled. so the opening has this kind of stewed or cooked quality which is a little bit of a still note or off note as I see it, but this fades of course leaving a really truly classic sambac heart and base. Just beautiful, and this one very much seems to be improving with age because when it first comes out of the still it's got quite a few still notes. I actually love that rustic freshly distilled quality but it's quite different from an old mellow absolute or molecular distillate. A molecular distillate of solvent extract like the sambac heart from Robertet has one kind of charm, a kind of beautiful balance from start to finish. This is a little bit more spastic but in a certain way it's more fascinating and natural feeling and brings in some saturation that I don't get from the solvent extracted oils
 
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