Attar/Mukhallat of the Day

Pink rose otto from @AlHind Oud is my swipe of the moment. This is a deg distilled "ruh" of damascena rose. First off, the profile is pretty distinctive - I'm not sure how to put it into words but in addition to a rich full damask rose otto profile there is a saturated tartness and some terroir notes that are pretty distinctive but kind of abstract and a little bit difficult to describe. The heart of this seems to be a beautiful saturated rosey apple and citrus like aroma, very true to the smell of the center of Rose flowers where all of the anthers are clustered. There's a sense of clove/eugenol in the opening, and an almost a resinous quality, some other thread weaving through here that I'm struggling to associate with anything specific. Maybe just the specific subtle influence of the deg. This really is the first time I've worn it without a lot of other competing notes so I guess this really is a first impression and I will have some more thoughtful descriptions once I've worn it a couple more times.
 
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And to balance the Rose I have swiped a nice old iron free Indonesian patchouli oil dating back from 2004. I've mentioned this one a few times because it's one of the vintage oils that I actually have a fair amount of so I can wear it daily without concern. Patchouli is so strange, on the one level I understand the differences between my different specimens thanks to doing some blotter tests and careful notetaking, etc. But I still find they hold surprises, even some that I've had since the early 90's. Today I tuned into a scintillating balanced spicy-woody facet that I haven't really tuned into when wearing this oil in the past. Typically this one really hits me with dry leafy sweet ethereal wine like aromas. that's the amazing thing about complex natural materials, you can get to know them over a period of 20 years and still be surprised.
 
oudcast said:
I had only smelled low grade frankincense being torched on ash-less coals, or as a spicy-amber nightmare in designer, niche, indie, and artisanal perfumery. But then I heated some hojari at a lower temperature. It wasn't my favourite smell in the world, but I couldn't believe how different it was from the reference point I had in my head. That citric brightness was amazing! Reminded me of St Clair's creations, who I think is a frontrunner in the use of citruses. Regardless, my qualms with frankincense was the reason I hadn't jumped on mesOUDs Aurantis. Otherwise, I have a running policy of grabbing at least a sample when circumstances allowed, of any creation that even HINTS at being up my alley. I was fortunate enough to get to try Aurantis as a sample with HAINAM.

mesOUD Aurantis smells exactly like the highest grade frankincense being slowly heated through its phases. There is an overall frankencitrus structure that prevents it from actually being a citrus scent imo. I just happen to be massively averse to frankincense, but Aurantis has managed to stay on the table instead of me just dismissing it. That is a feat imo. It is a masterclass in full spectrum liquid frankincense and I am so glad I have this as a reference point. I don't even know if it's an attar, it might just be liquidated frankincense, idk.
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Have you tried other types of Frankincense than the typical "citrus heavy" Boswellia Sacra/Carterii ?

For example : Boswellia Neglecta, Frereana, Dioscoridis, Occulta.

You also have a dozen of species from Socotra Island (Asplenifolia, Parvifolia, Bullata, Ameero, Elongata, etc).
 
Maysam AlWard AlTaifi - Taif Rose Oil, First Class

This is an amazing Taif rose oil. It's not sharp and piercing like other rose oils. It caresses me gently. Taking me to blooming rose fields. The smell of vegetal and rose essences is intoxicating. It doesn't burn my skin either. Real good stuff!
 

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Glandestine said:
Have you tried other types of Frankincense than the typical "citrus heavy" Boswellia Sacra/Carterii ?

For example : Boswellia Neglecta, Frereana, Dioscoridis, Occulta.

You also have a dozen of species from Socotra Island (Asplenifolia, Parvifolia, Bullata, Ameero, Elongata, etc).
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Good callout. Frearana, discordis, ameero are my favorite frank types and I enjoy them more than hojary tbh 😊
 
mobyus said:
Do they all share the citrusy goodness of Hojari? If not, then what are they like generally?
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Believe it or not, I actually don’t like the citrusy franks. All the ones I mentioned (on an electric warmer) have no citrus notes but have what I call scent extravaganza. A moment where you breathe in a heapful and get notes of all the finest perfumes you know. This is similar to some of the fruity rich resin incensy hearts of cambodian or Thai ouds I have experienced.

Would also add Occulta to my list of favorites.
 
mobyus said:
Do they all share the citrusy goodness of Hojari? If not, then what are they like generally?
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Frereana has some citrus notes, but it's more rounded, creamy and woody. The "citrus note" is not as sharp and zesty compared to B. Sacra. It has more of a sweet and "piney" heart. Awesome to use a chewing-gum, as it's full of oleoresin.

Dioscoridis and Ameero : no citrus notes.

Papyrifera is also very good, it kinda has some citrus notes, but leans more on the coniferous/woody style.

All these different Frankincense species have their own aromatic profiles, it is great to discover the less-known ones.
We can say the same about Commiphora species (Myrrh)!
 
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Glandestine said:
Frereana has some citrus notes, but it's more rounded, creamy and woody. The "citrus note" is not as sharp and zesty compared to B. Sacra. It has more of a sweet and "piney" heart. Awesome to use a chewing-gum, as it's full of oleoresin.

Dioscoridis and Ameero : no citrus notes.

Papyrifera is also very good, it kinda has some citrus notes, but leans more on the coniferous/woody style.

All these different Frankincense species have their own aromatic profiles, it is great to discover the less-known ones.
We can say the same about Commiphora species (Myrrh)!
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i found most samples of frereana to have distinct musky and urine-like notes - good for musky blends; serrata reminds me of dill - not my favorite; one of my favorite oils is a very dry smelling carterii resin extract that is extremely beautiful. Sacra to me is quite special - has a unique profile not shared by the others as you all have experienced. Tigray (papyrifera?) is a real oddball to me, sort of thick heavy waxy in both the oils and when it burns
 
Assagon - Mesoud
Begum OG - Mesoud

I like to wear two ouds/attars at once because sniffing both helps me percieve notes of the other oil that I would otherwise be blind to.

I've only been wearing them both for a few minutes, but begum og is so much more beautiful than I remember, granted I swiped it many months ago. The rose is perfectly soft and honeyed here, not loud and sparkly like I taifi roses, which is perfect for me because I'm not the biggest fan of rose. The attar itself is somewhat creamy and has that slightly bitter floral note which I smell in hindis, and it pairs so well with the velvety rose. I think this is my favourite oud rose attar in my collection rn
 
Still struck by the ability of oakmoss to change the way other things smell. This week I've been noticing it kind of shapes citrusy facets of Rose oil - the combination creates this very long lasting abstract citrus note that doesn't exist when the materials are separate.
 
MesOUD - Naseem (sample)

This is truly a mind-blowing attar! I really love this! In addition to all the wonderful ingredients present in Aurantis, Naseem has Basil, and Sage. I adore these 2 ingredients not only in cuisine but in perfumery as well. In gives a perfect herbaceous balance to the frankincense citrus going on. I actually prefer Naseem over Aurantis. Although both are great in their own way. I’m also getting the festive edge from the cinnamon, thyme, and cardamom. I would say it’s more fitting for the fall/winter seasons. I love it when I’m happily surprised and Naseem did that for me.
 

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mesOUD said:
Happily Naseem is also a true attar dear,it is a codistillation of +15 materials and castoreum was also there in pot
İt is aged now and ready to enjoy
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I have happily worn Naseem over five times now. I have a full review due for its magic but can briefly attest to its sparkling green and herby firecrackers. Maybe I’m too conservative 😅 with applying it but its goodness is easily overpowered. Hence it’s in my category of attars to study in isolation - kodo style to appreciate its sustained but delicate perfume. @mesOUD is fully in that category for me. The codistills are a unique and painstaking style - lucky to have experienced them.
 
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