Oie School Famous Kyara, named by previous head.
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Iori - you have experienced all of the "colors" of kyara many times over. Is there literal visual color consistent with the naming? Does green look green, purple look purple, etc.? Photos don't really show subtle color variations or at least I have not seen the connections
 
New knagiiten drop

Vietnam/Laos coils - Don't like them while burning (incense smoke) but the after-burn is great and sweet woody, oudy notes lingers the room for at least 3 days. I can smell it even with my blocked nose.

Eid incense sticks (Musk/Ambergris/Oud/Sandalwood) - Pretty decent, need to study them separately maybe when I fully recover.
 
I won't cry but, my last order from Oud Treasure on Etsy, is a mess. It was packed with supersonic Bahkoor, that I immediately trashed. It was all packed together in loose baggies and then sealed in a plastic case, the woods were basically smoked soaking the wood resins with perfume. I tried airing the baggies out. It's been a couple of days, but the Nha Trang on the subitism is my worst nightmare, white musk.

Woods can be enfleuraged, how do people not know that?

Don't ship Bahkoor (or perfume for that matter) with precious woods! Or insulate them if they are potent. The only woods that survived shipping were the tiny potent samples in a sealed tin.

Impressed that seller, is shipping out new. No return necessary. Total class act. šŸ¤ć…¤įµ•Ģˆā™”ļøŽ Ų¹Ų±Ų¶ Ų§Ł„Ł…Ų²ŁŠŲÆ
 
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Iori - you have experienced all of the "colors" of kyara many times over. Is there literal visual color consistent with the naming? Does green look green, purple look purple, etc.? Photos don't really show subtle color variations or at least I have not seen the connections

In many cases there is visual color connections to colors of the Kyara/Kinam but in other cases it's not, you might see it called green, purple, yellow etc but the look far from it.

Also have to mention the Physical test carried over the big chunk mostly not small ones, because many of the small pieces you don't have the skin with it, while it carry's color of the oil but you lose the physical skin with it which for many its important to determine the color.

There is lots of controversy regarding the color system even in china itself "They are the ones that invented it" , I seen most of colors sold under "White" because it's been the trend since ages.

Speaking about Chinese views in short

White Color : This i heard from Chinese came to China from Taiwanese Professor called "Zhang Liangwei" and he believe the White color have white flower like skin and when cut its black in the inside, and lots going by that.
Some believe it doesn't exist and they call any special pieces of the 4 colors a white.
Also i seen few Chinese mention that many of White have soft green color in it too.

Green Color : Since long time this is compared to color of Warbler's feathers or Parrot feathers.

Purple Color : Lots of controversy here too, some say it's similar to black in appearance some say its red/black oiled, some say its dark purple some say reddish brown and so on.

Yellow Color : Some i seen call it brown some Golden silk and some say its different than yellow "In Japan all yellow i tested have spicy notes" I seen many of those sold in china as white, even last week a dude form KSA sold 1.8k two pieces to Taiwanese as white and they think its white so he sent me sample to see what i think.. i told him in japan this is 100% yellow but i know in china its sold as white.

Black Color : Its black and hard back then they used to call it iron.

There is lots more colors in japan and some doesn't even fall under color system.

Personally the pieces i tested especially under macro you can see the colors especially the green, black, red, purple and yellow, but if we goes by color of oil there will be way more than what i posted because some pieces you can see it have lots of colors in that small piece and its labeled lats say black or green here two examples.

Special black from Oie School
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Special Green from Shino School
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^ I seen the log of both pieces personally and they are by look Black and green, the green one had the "Warbler feathers like color" as the Chinese said.

In Japan while physical appearance important the taste test is the most important test to determine color, rank, grade and so on.


If you interested I'll send you lots of Chinese articles talking about Kinam and there is lots of copy paste idea's while some is a bit different.
 
In many cases there is visual color connections to colors of the Kyara/Kinam but in other cases it's not, you might see it called green, purple, yellow etc but the look far from it.

Also have to mention the Physical test carried over the big chunk mostly not small ones, because many of the small pieces you don't have the skin with it, while it carry's color of the oil but you lose the physical skin with it which for many its important to determine the color.

There is lots of controversy regarding the color system even in china itself "They are the ones that invented it" , I seen most of colors sold under "White" because it's been the trend since ages.

Speaking about Chinese views in short

White Color : This i heard from Chinese came to China from Taiwanese Professor called "Zhang Liangwei" and he believe the White color have white flower like skin and when cut its black in the inside, and lots going by that.
Some believe it doesn't exist and they call any special pieces of the 4 colors a white.
Also i seen few Chinese mention that many of White have soft green color in it too.

Green Color : Since long time this is compared to color of Warbler's feathers or Parrot feathers.

Purple Color : Lots of controversy here too, some say it's similar to black in appearance some say its red/black oiled, some say its dark purple some say reddish brown and so on.

Yellow Color : Some i seen call it brown some Golden silk and some say its different than yellow "In Japan all yellow i tested have spicy notes" I seen many of those sold in china as white, even last week a dude form KSA sold 1.8k two pieces to Taiwanese as white and they think its white so he sent me sample to see what i think.. i told him in japan this is 100% yellow but i know in china its sold as white.

Black Color : Its black and hard back then they used to call it iron.

There is lots more colors in japan and some doesn't even fall under color system.

Personally the pieces i tested especially under macro you can see the colors especially the green, black, red, purple and yellow, but if we goes by color of oil there will be way more than what i posted because some pieces you can see it have lots of colors in that small piece and its labeled lats say black or green here two examples.

Special black from Oie School
[Ouddict.com] Burn of the Day


Special Green from Shino School
[Ouddict.com] Burn of the Day


^ I seen the log of both pieces personally and they are by look Black and green, the green one had the "Warbler feathers like color" as the Chinese said.

In Japan while physical appearance important the taste test is the most important test to determine color, rank, grade and so on.


If you interested I'll send you lots of Chinese articles talking about Kinam and there is lots of copy paste idea's while some is a bit different.
Excellent point made about not receiving the skin with the oil-laden meat.

Perhaps, it would be most beneficial to relate the classifications of both visual and aromatic colors, as some parts of some formations may carry distinct differences from their surroundings. This would provide the most information, for a more complete, multidimensional mapping of the formations.
 
KZ's Sumatora Hirta that I bought a gram of when it was a new release (its back now, might get another gram if its still there when I can get it). Sweet spots were 160-180c. 160c with wafting and 180c with cupping the heater. I used quite a lot of it and powdered it, and had a 50-55min session with it and its got plenty of beautiful scent life in it.

Very sweet creamy golden vanillic notes in a kinamic like way, with a very strong pure musk animalic note, with with a greenery petrichor jungle note, very bittersweet earthiness that turned into a bittersweet vanillic chocolate, pleasant semi-sweet golden resinous oudy agarwood notes, with some dry pleasant bitter woody notes, some juicy purple and slightly red hued fruity flat cola notes and some herbal green slightly minty notes, spiciness and sourness, with some subtle wild floral notes, and a sort of pleasant burnt vanilla root note. NOTE: There was some buttery ethereal notes attached to the "golden vanillic notes", thats kinda what I mean by "golden" vanilla.

These notes would go round and round. Especially the chocolate, greenery, creamy golden vanillic notes, woody, bitter, semi-sweet, and spicy notes. I feel these are the backbone of this wood.

I got it so long ago and have not used it in so long that I felt like I may as well use a ton of it and mess about with it with higher temps, and it seems to suit higher temps really well.
 
KZ's Sumatora Hirta that I bought a gram of when it was a new release (its back now, might get another gram if its still there when I can get it). Sweet spots were 160-180c. 160c with wafting and 180c with cupping the heater. I used quite a lot of it and powdered it, and had a 50-55min session with it and its got plenty of beautiful scent life in it.

Very sweet creamy golden vanillic notes in a kinamic like way, with a very strong pure musk animalic note, with with a greenery petrichor jungle note, very bittersweet earthiness that turned into a bittersweet vanillic chocolate, pleasant semi-sweet golden resinous oudy agarwood notes, with some dry pleasant bitter woody notes, some juicy purple and slightly red hued fruity flat cola notes and some herbal green slightly minty notes, spiciness and sourness, with some subtle wild floral notes, and a sort of pleasant burnt vanilla root note. NOTE: There was some buttery ethereal notes attached to the "golden vanillic notes", thats kinda what I mean by "golden" vanilla.

These notes would go round and round. Especially the chocolate, greenery, creamy golden vanillic notes, woody, bitter, semi-sweet, and spicy notes. I feel these are the backbone of this wood.

I got it so long ago and have not used it in so long that I felt like I may as well use a ton of it and mess about with it with higher temps, and it seems to suit higher temps really well.
Nice, I need to revisit this one myself. I do remember it being particularly good when I first tried it. Have also noticed it's back in the shop. Definitely worth adding to the collection if you haven't tried it yet.
 
Giving KZ Pontianak another go

KZ says it’s definitely wild old growth bead and pendant waste.
If you watch KZ’s woodtalk #12 you’ll see how these tiny pieces come about.

Pontianak does perform well on the heater,
staying aromatic from low to high, slightly floral, resinous, some bitterness, and still reminds me of A. filaria.

A good aroma is not the only thing that I judge an oudh to see how much I like it. There’s how it makes me feel physiologically,
and simply my preference, with that in mind I believe Pontianak has a good aroma, but I am not compelled to stock up on it.
 
Giving KZ Pontianak another go

KZ says it’s definitely wild old growth bead and pendant waste.
If you watch KZ’s woodtalk #12 you’ll see how these tiny pieces come about.

Pontianak does perform well on the heater,
staying aromatic from low to high, slightly floral, resinous, some bitterness, and still reminds me of A. filaria.

A good aroma is not the only thing that I judge an oudh to see how much I like it. There’s how it makes me feel physiologically,
and simply my preference, with that in mind I believe Pontianak has a good aroma, but I am not compelled to stock up on it.
Where are you sitting (volts) on the sub with it? I prefer to use my ceramic but with these dense little pieces of wood it's not the best tool for the job.
 
I use my Shoyeido Kodachi, it does not indicate voltage or temperature šŸ™
That's the one where you raise up or lower down the mica plate for temp control? I guess that is still kodo style. Maybe I just need to push my ceramic a little harder. 200 is as high as I've ever gone but it can go to 260.
 
That's the one where you raise up or lower down the mica plate for temp control? I guess that is still kodo style. Maybe I just need to push my ceramic a little harder. 200 is as high as I've ever gone but it can go to 260.
No, the heating ceramic pad is fixed on the Kodachi. I use the control knob to increase the temperature. If it gets too hot then it will automatically shut off. So I can’t match the heat of a subitism, don’t need to anyway, I don’t fry my wood🤣
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