Ensar Oud Royal Guallam - Left Arm
Rising Phoenix Perfumery PNT - Right Arm

I didn’t set out to do a comparison but, after applying some Royal Guallam I couldn’t fight the curiosity to see how JK’s Nha Trang oil holds up to this Oriscent legend.

I didn’t really expect the outcome. As some of you know, I’m a bit of an RPP “stan”. But I always sort of assumed that if you wanted the absolute best stuff you had to look to Ensar’s Oriscent line to get it. After this experience I’m convinced otherwise and I’d go as far a saying almost all of the vendors on here probably have some Oriscent comparable stuff in their lineup and for much less cost! Spoiler alert… I prefer PNT.

Royal Guallam is a bitter, camphoric, dry, woody scent with a hint of a chinese medicinal smell. It is quite linear and above average in its performance.

PNT is sweeter, mentholic, floral, fruity, indolic, medicinal, it has an element to it that is sort of animalic and very addictive. At its core a “honey comb” note that is something I usually associate with sinensis oils which is not there in Ensar’s oil. It is less linear and almost seems to grow in its complexity toward the 1-hour mark. Performance is maybe a little less in projection but a little more in its longevity. In general, both oils are solid in this area.

The two oils share the Nha Trang profile and are really enjoyable to wear but, in terms of which I prefer? It’s going to have to be PNT. I could also see someone preferring Royal Guallam. But now, here’s the kicker.

Royal Guallam sells for $835/gram

PNT for $500/gram

No way is Royal Guallam 67% percent better than PNT. In fact, I prefer PNT (price no object). JK’s recent New Gens are bangers. The Borikhamxay is close to this in terms of quality. Anyone who got the original batch of Laos antwood as a sample is not, in my opinion, getting the full story of that oil. They’re definitely worth checking out. I don’t think JK has much of this PNT either so once it starts getting under peoples’ noses it’s going to go quick. With the holiday season coming up, I’d be surprised if it makes it to the new year.
 
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I received the following oils in trade:

Assamugo Senkoh - this one caught me off guard. Mostly because the opening is nice but ultimately it reminded me of something Tabeer Oud released especially in the drydown. To my nose this reminds me of a mix of Burmese borderland oils and Tripura region hindi’s but with a “red” pipe tobacco opening. I gotta say though this IS a nice scent profile and it’s an oil I’m glad I own. Red fruity tobacco, rugged woods, dry hay with leathery undertones, and finally that beautiful clean Hindi drydown that smells like green tea, honey and florals.

Kencantikan - I just really love Borneos. This one is rather beautiful although the opening notes are pretty reminiscent to most clean Borneos I’ve smelled it’s the drydown that I really love. Kencantikan opens with honeyed florals, bitter woods and gorgeous warm ouddiness before transitioning into an almost sinensis like drydown. It’s not quite as powdery as other oils are that I own and I love that. There’s a touch of greenery here although it’s so refined I almost don’t smell it. I get hints of orris root/violet and clean green sinensis-like warmth with gentle notes of vanilla cream.
 
Sulaym's Bandarban - a hint of barn note which introduces an intensely camphoric blast, all the while vanishing itself. As the heart rolls around now the camphoric blast takes the back seat to a tree sap syrup like note, resinous and slightly sweetened, but not over doing it. Greeting a fermented wood note, a touch of leather and a golden, slightly spiced heart, often featured in new gen Hindi oud distillations, and a delicate, honeyed white floral note. A new serenity overtakes the scent, the gusto from the beginning has long been toned down, but it's not gone yet! The final stage sees a portion of the initial blast return, but this time more reflective and calm, surrounded by a pristine green, ever so slightly citrusy note, which tingles the nostrils on subsequent sniffs!
 
Sulaym - SQ Purple Malay 1970s

Really nice vintage Kelantan oil. Definitely a complex oil that changes over the course of the day.

Right away there is a prominent floral character that is extremely pleasant and feels like the defining note of this oil. There’s also a spearmint cooling facet which starts a bit more subtle and while it’s never overwhelming or overly sharp, becomes more prominent as the oil opens up. Later on it takes on a certain woody, incensey vibe, which mingles very nicely with the florals.

One thing to note, this is a bit of a subtle oil that I feel you have to take a larger swipe to get the full effect. However, a fat swipe of this oil lasts a long time. Last time I could still smell it after two days!
 
Zamrad 2 today. An unusual oil - trying to wrap my head around it. There are a variety of umami / soup-like notes in here i have not encountered in oud before… not even sure what adjectives to use. This oil brings some others to mind. I have this old Aceh that agarwoodindonesia distilled at the start of his ventures and i am reminded of that oil, would have guessed Aceh province based on its sugary sweetness - more sugary / pungent than earthy/spicy/mulchy. Sweet sour pungency in the top note brings thai crassna to mind a bit as well, though it is more subdued than in fresh thai oils. It has a certain tang in the very first notes that I associate with oils in the “indonesian green” category (assuming i understand the term).

It’s funny because it seems every time I think I have a grasp on what a particular region smells like I get an oil or sample that just throws that right out the window! just goes to show you you need a large sample size to understand anything

I need to reread the description but if I were taking notes for my own purposes or to identify other things in my collection to compare, I would say overall it hits like a merging of My thai, aceh, green indonesian oils and some other category of scent i have not encountered before.
Ok - i have had more sniffs. All three oils habz sent seem like absolutely primo / select specimens of the categories that they represent. I haven’t smelled another oil like the zamrad 2 since agarwoodindonesia’s first over the top distillation run many years ago. There is unsoaked hindi is immaculate- can really smell that classic hindi wood without barn or cheese or smoke - smooth, powdery, velvety, resinous with a sassafras note i often smell in Hindi oil. The thai oil is also super nice - kind of recharged my interest in the region- it is thick and heavy and aged smelling. Smells thai, but unusually dignified.

Had to check the names. The thai is “Boran” and the hindi is “tipu sultan”

Anyway, these all feel carefully selected to avoid the less appealing notes that at times show up in even good quality oil.
 
Ok - i have had more sniffs. All three oils habz sent seem like absolutely primo / select specimens of the categories that they represent. I haven’t smelled another oil like the zamrad 2 since agarwoodindonesia’s first over the top distillation run many years ago. There is unsoaked hindi is immaculate- can really smell that classic hindi wood without barn or cheese or smoke - smooth, powdery, velvety, resinous with a sassafras note i often smell in Hindi oil. The thai oil is also super nice - kind of recharged my interest in the region- it is thick and heavy and aged smelling. Smells thai, but unusually dignified.

Had to check the names. The thai is “Boran” and the hindi is “tipu sultan”

Anyway, these all feel carefully selected to avoid the less appealing notes that at times show up in even good quality oil.
I'm surprised aged Crassnas aren't more of a trend, Boran was a revelation, reminds me of the mid stage of a West Malaysian oil I have but without some of the more unpleasant notes. MesOud's Cambodi Qadeem was the first in this style to leave a mark, and An Najwa's Khlong Yai being the most recent. It's almost as if aging Crassnas lightens their natural fruitiness and transforms them to smell closer to a Hindi dry down.
 
I know what you’re talking about and one of the things I’ve been trying to figure out is to what degree it is aging versus pre or post processing. I have smelled some very young oils that have that signature note that I thought was a product strictly of time. The mesoud burmese is an example
 
Blind smelling Nungkhal 1 from @RisingPhoenix

Distilled: ?
Origin: Nungkhal, Manipur, India

I received 4 Nunghakl oils and I was planning to compare this with other Nungkhal oils. but I changed my mind right after I unscrewed the cap off from the bottle because it immediately overwhelmed my nose with extremely potent barn and leather.

Damn! this one is a monster.

think of traditional Hindi. however, although it's overwhelmingly animalic, smells very clean and smooth. just like well-fermented blue cheese, it smells weirdly addictive. it's definitely not a crowd-pleaser. 😂

after 10 minutes or so, it settles down and give off pleasant florals and berries which I greatly love in clean Hindi oils.

I think the rest of the Nungkhal series will test my tolerance to barnyard to the extream.




edit: additional impression

Okay, I think it's about 3? or 4 hours in after the application. although the initial blast really took me a back with a loud animalic roar, I feel much better with this at this point. I guess it needed some time to settle. now it smells pleasant with these berries, and sour yogurts. the leather is still there, but it is much more tamed.
I think with some time this oil will age beautifully like a fine wine. at this point. the initial opening is a bit too much for me.
 
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Blind smelling Nungkhal 1 from @RisingPhoenix

Distilled: ?
Origin: Nungkhal, Manipur, India

I received 4 Nunghakl oils and I was planning to compare this with other Nungkhal oils. but I changed my mind right after I unscrewed the cap off from the bottle because it immediately overwhelmed my nose with extremely potent barn and leather.

Damn! this one is a monster.

think of traditional Hindi. however, although it's overwhelmingly animalic, smells very clean and smooth. just like well-fermented blue cheese, it smells weirdly addictive. it's definitely not a crowd-pleaser. 😂

after 10 minutes or so, it settles down and give off pleasant florals and berries which I greatly love in clean Hindi oils.

I think the rest of the Nungkhal series will test my tolerance to barnyard to the extream.
Man … Nungkhal 1 and you’re already dying? 🤣

I freaking love how it smells. It’s rich and floral-berry fruity and leathery with a deep base - full of atomic bombs 💣 worth of Umami 👅

Don’t worry @Taesik Yun - you’ll be growing a full beard *overnight* by the time you’re done reviewing the 4 🧔🏽

The story on these oils is incredible. Will be telling it soon 🙌🏼
 
I keep coming back to the tarakan oil I got from mesoud. This has become the oud I always keep with me for the last couple of months. This one has just the right balance of earthy, confectionery, phenolic, bitter-sweet…. I have a variety of really nice oils but this is the one I currently reach for most of the time… I am going to need to start rationing this stuff.
 
I keep coming back to the tarakan oil I got from mesoud. This has become the oud I always keep with me for the last couple of months. This one has just the right balance of earthy, confectionery, phenolic, bitter-sweet…. I have a variety of really nice oils but this is the one I currently reach for most of the time… I am going to need to start rationing this stuff.
Totally agree with you on mesoud tarakan oil, the more I use this one the more I like it!
 
Man … Nungkhal 1 and you’re already dying? 🤣

I freaking love how it smells. It’s rich and floral-berry fruity and leathery with a deep base - full of atomic bombs 💣 worth of Umami 👅

Don’t worry @Taesik Yun - you’ll be growing a full beard *overnight* by the time you’re done reviewing the 4 🧔🏽

The story on these oils is incredible. Will be telling it soon 🙌🏼
This thing is horrendous! I would not dare to wear this outside. if I wear this and go outside, people will smack my face and I won't be able to speak a word about it.
 
Totally agree with you on mesoud tarakan oil, the more I use this one the more I like it!
It “performs” really well - generally just swiping across the threads/neck of the stopper is enough and i don’t even need to uncork it.
 
This thing is horrendous! I would not dare to wear this outside. if I wear this and go outside, people will smack my face and I won't be able to speak a word about it.
Ah my friend - it’s glorious 🤣

It constantly amazes me how so many Asian folks can eat some crazy strong flavored stuff … and yet be entirely undone by even a hint of strong smells 🤯🤣

And you’re Korean - that’s some POTENT fermentation flavors 😆😆 Maybe that’s why I love Korean food so much 🥰😂
 
Blind smelling Nungkhal 1 from @RisingPhoenix

Distilled: ?
Origin: Nungkhal, Manipur, India




edit: additional impression

Okay, I think it's about 3? or 4 hours in after the application. although the initial blast really took me a back with a loud animalic roar, I feel much better with this at this point. I guess it needed some time to settle. now it smells pleasant with these berries, and sour yogurts. the leather is still there, but it is much more tamed.
I think with some time this oil will age beautifully like a fine wine. at this point. the initial opening is a bit too much for me.
Yeah, I’m already loving how it smells, but Time is going to do wonders to this oil. It’s going to age and mature gloriously 💪🏼

But I’m still laughing at your initial impressions 😆

Now go eat some Jjigae with some really strong aged Kimchi and Banchan !
 
Yeah, I’m already loving how it smells, but Time is going to do wonders to this oil. It’s going to age and mature gloriously 💪🏼

But I’m still laughing at your initial impressions 😆

Now go eat some Jjigae with some really strong aged Kimchi and Banchan !
how did you know that I'm gonna eat kimchi for the next supper? although I eat kimchi every single day, don't stereotype me! 😂
 
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