Yes! In fact things that you cannot detect will become detectable with repeated exposure in some cases. I recall reading about this in the book the Emperor of Scent, which talks about some of the amazing attributes and unsolved questions about the function of the olfactory system

So in this case the problem is that I don't know which one it is. I assume it's a little bit of the oil maturing plus a little bit of my olfactory system adapting, but it's kind of important to know because I don't want to smell like garbage to the average person I pass ha ha

Let's say I put a dab of this on and go to the local coffee shop. Do I smell like rotten wood and cheese, or paradise? No way for me to tell without a test subject who has never smelled it 🙂
 
Yes! In fact things that you cannot detect will become detectable with repeated exposure in some cases. I recall reading about this in the book the Emperor of Scent, which talks about some of the amazing attributes and unsolved questions about the function of the olfactory system

So in this case the problem is that I don't know which one it is. I assume it's a little bit of the oil maturing plus a little bit of my olfactory system adapting, but it's kind of important to know because I don't want to smell like garbage to the average person I pass ha ha

Let's say I put a dab of this on and go to the local coffee shop. Do I smell like rotten wood and cheese, or paradise? No way for me to tell without a test subject who has never smelled it 🙂
Have you noticed that you pick up smells MORE now than you did before you got really serious about aromatics, especially natural aromatics? And even tastes? I never detected this beautiful floral taste and note in Gray Goose vodka before at all, it was very pleasant. Have you had any experiences similar to this?

And I also pick up scents that no one else can when with me, as if my nose is a lot more sensitive now, and I even have a (semi) blocked left nostril from breaking my nose.
 
mesOUD - Koh Chang

Oh boy, this one is a winner! Piercing wood varnish fumes with a sour jammy fruit backnote. Menthol green and piney cooling in the open. They way the vapors go through my nose is like velvet, honestly is making me a little dizzy when I take a big whiff. First time it’s happened with an oil so far for me. My nba team is playing today so I’m cheering them on tonight with some A+ oil, hoping for it to be a good luck charm.🍀
 
Tiny swipes oud orgy for me. Many to remember as my memory is hazy about them, some to help decide if an upgrade is required or not.

EO Kinam Rouge very nice Viet oil that deters from the Oriscent aesthetic. Still unsure if I need more of it or not. I can name two other oils that give me similar vibes but both are better to my nose. VietKing from MesOud and AA Khmer Rosso. These 3 are in the same ballpark but the MesOud's Viet feels cleaner and has a more cooling bite that I like and Khmer Rosso takes the VietKing experience and amplifies several times. So KR kinda falls behind as it feels less "kinamic" than both, more traditional I'd say. A beautiful oil just not sure where to squeeze it with the other 2 being around or available.

Jinkoh Store Grand Emperor Hue this one is a great oil. Smooth, deep, rich, and aged to perfection. The first time I tried it I liked it but I was so overwhelmed with other oils that I completely forgot about it. I saw a few people mentioning "Purple Kinam" and I have no clue what that means and how "kinam" has become such an easy-to-throw-around term these days but this oil definitely has a Honeyed Purple quality to it. Also, as some mentioned it has that bitter-medicinal, almost pushing toward varnish territory but I have to force my mind to perceive that quality. Same DNA as Grand Emperor Kedah, maybe Marius got both the same collector, or maybe it was the same distiller? They both share this deep-aged liquor quality with a unique DNA for their terroir and super smooth and polished character. I wonder if this is a Crassna or Sinensis oil. The only Sinensis oil to have a Purple hue I have ever tried is Dokusan. I could see Dokusan as a younger cousin to this one, that one is another unique and amazing oil, and just like this one, a very rare breed (Yunnan oil)

Oriscent Port Moresby as everyone seems to agree, is a great oil. If you like smoky scents a la Oriscent aesthetic, this one is among the best. Strong, monolithic, but delivering that perfectly captured "Incense Smoke" accord. Very straightforward oil. Heavy incense smoke fumes with a spiritual quality and a piercing green-metallic facet. I almost see this oil as a reference to "Incense Smoke" oils. Not exactly my cup of tea, but I'd like to keep 1 gram around for the collection and as a reference. As I have mentioned many times before, I am by no means a fan of New Guinea or Merauke oils. The only one that has a place for me there is the almighty Oud Royale 82, and nothing can compete with that. That one is the Don.

EO Oud Mahmoud as a lover of these old, floral, deep, sweet, and resinous Malays I could not pass on a sample of this one. The opening had me trepidating and recalling Sultani already recalculating my oud budget but it didn't last longer than 10 minutes. Afterward, it changed to a very similar DNA akin to Purple Malay, without the zestiness. It STRONGLY brings to mind the dry down of Purple Malay and even Dokusan. That musky, incense, purple, resinous quality that I find in both those oils. It's a great oil and I like it, as I like all these Malay oils that fit this bill but do not see myself pursuing a larger amount of it. Maybe if I see some for a good price and I have the money to throw. Although it might just be redundant for me to have.

Oriscent Kelantan such a grower this one. Very unique Malaysian oil. Changes a lot during the wear but the transitions are so delicate and smooth you hardly notice. It has a Borneo quality at times with that nice Indonesian woody aroma. Yet, unlike Purple Kinam, it holds strongly to that deep resinous Malaysian DNA. Black molasses, velvety texture, fine incense smoke slowly emanating the smoothest of veils. Some hints of bitter green, sometimes dusty vanillic facets, sometimes a faint musky character. Super polished. It's a winner for me although at first I was a bit underwhelmed. This oil unfolds to me with each subsequent wear.
 
Tiny swipes oud orgy for me. Many to remember as my memory is hazy about them, some to help decide if an upgrade is required or not.

EO Kinam Rouge very nice Viet oil that deters from the Oriscent aesthetic. Still unsure if I need more of it or not. I can name two other oils that give me similar vibes but both are better to my nose. VietKing from MesOud and AA Khmer Rosso. These 3 are in the same ballpark but the MesOud's Viet feels cleaner and has a more cooling bite that I like and Khmer Rosso takes the VietKing experience and amplifies several times. So KR kinda falls behind as it feels less "kinamic" than both, more traditional I'd say. A beautiful oil just not sure where to squeeze it with the other 2 being around or available.

Jinkoh Store Grand Emperor Hue this one is a great oil. Smooth, deep, rich, and aged to perfection. The first time I tried it I liked it but I was so overwhelmed with other oils that I completely forgot about it. I saw a few people mentioning "Purple Kinam" and I have no clue what that means and how "kinam" has become such an easy-to-throw-around term these days but this oil definitely has a Honeyed Purple quality to it. Also, as some mentioned it has that bitter-medicinal, almost pushing toward varnish territory but I have to force my mind to perceive that quality. Same DNA as Grand Emperor Kedah, maybe Marius got both the same collector, or maybe it was the same distiller? They both share this deep-aged liquor quality with a unique DNA for their terroir and super smooth and polished character. I wonder if this is a Crassna or Sinensis oil. The only Sinensis oil to have a Purple hue I have ever tried is Dokusan. I could see Dokusan as a younger cousin to this one, that one is another unique and amazing oil, and just like this one, a very rare breed (Yunnan oil)

Oriscent Port Moresby as everyone seems to agree, is a great oil. If you like smoky scents a la Oriscent aesthetic, this one is among the best. Strong, monolithic, but delivering that perfectly captured "Incense Smoke" accord. Very straightforward oil. Heavy incense smoke fumes with a spiritual quality and a piercing green-metallic facet. I almost see this oil as a reference to "Incense Smoke" oils. Not exactly my cup of tea, but I'd like to keep 1 gram around for the collection and as a reference. As I have mentioned many times before, I am by no means a fan of New Guinea or Merauke oils. The only one that has a place for me there is the almighty Oud Royale 82, and nothing can compete with that. That one is the Don.

EO Oud Mahmoud as a lover of these old, floral, deep, sweet, and resinous Malays I could not pass on a sample of this one. The opening had me trepidating and recalling Sultani already recalculating my oud budget but it didn't last longer than 10 minutes. Afterward, it changed to a very similar DNA akin to Purple Malay, without the zestiness. It STRONGLY brings to mind the dry down of Purple Malay and even Dokusan. That musky, incense, purple, resinous quality that I find in both those oils. It's a great oil and I like it, as I like all these Malay oils that fit this bill but do not see myself pursuing a larger amount of it. Maybe if I see some for a good price and I have the money to throw. Although it might just be redundant for me to have.

Oriscent Kelantan such a grower this one. Very unique Malaysian oil. Changes a lot during the wear but the transitions are so delicate and smooth you hardly notice. It has a Borneo quality at times with that nice Indonesian woody aroma. Yet, unlike Purple Kinam, it holds strongly to that deep resinous Malaysian DNA. Black molasses, velvety texture, fine incense smoke slowly emanating the smoothest of veils. Some hints of bitter green, sometimes dusty vanillic facets, sometimes a faint musky character. Super polished. It's a winner for me although at first I was a bit underwhelmed. This oil unfolds to me with each subsequent wear.
Love reading your detailed and fleshed out thoughts on these oils, especially the ones I own. It’s like wiping a smudge of your glasses and seeing the oil through clear lenses.
 
Tiny swipes oud orgy for me. Many to remember as my memory is hazy about them, some to help decide if an upgrade is required or not.

EO Kinam Rouge very nice Viet oil that deters from the Oriscent aesthetic. Still unsure if I need more of it or not. I can name two other oils that give me similar vibes but both are better to my nose. VietKing from MesOud and AA Khmer Rosso. These 3 are in the same ballpark but the MesOud's Viet feels cleaner and has a more cooling bite that I like and Khmer Rosso takes the VietKing experience and amplifies several times. So KR kinda falls behind as it feels less "kinamic" than both, more traditional I'd say. A beautiful oil just not sure where to squeeze it with the other 2 being around or available.

Jinkoh Store Grand Emperor Hue this one is a great oil. Smooth, deep, rich, and aged to perfection. The first time I tried it I liked it but I was so overwhelmed with other oils that I completely forgot about it. I saw a few people mentioning "Purple Kinam" and I have no clue what that means and how "kinam" has become such an easy-to-throw-around term these days but this oil definitely has a Honeyed Purple quality to it. Also, as some mentioned it has that bitter-medicinal, almost pushing toward varnish territory but I have to force my mind to perceive that quality. Same DNA as Grand Emperor Kedah, maybe Marius got both the same collector, or maybe it was the same distiller? They both share this deep-aged liquor quality with a unique DNA for their terroir and super smooth and polished character. I wonder if this is a Crassna or Sinensis oil. The only Sinensis oil to have a Purple hue I have ever tried is Dokusan. I could see Dokusan as a younger cousin to this one, that one is another unique and amazing oil, and just like this one, a very rare breed (Yunnan oil)

Oriscent Port Moresby as everyone seems to agree, is a great oil. If you like smoky scents a la Oriscent aesthetic, this one is among the best. Strong, monolithic, but delivering that perfectly captured "Incense Smoke" accord. Very straightforward oil. Heavy incense smoke fumes with a spiritual quality and a piercing green-metallic facet. I almost see this oil as a reference to "Incense Smoke" oils. Not exactly my cup of tea, but I'd like to keep 1 gram around for the collection and as a reference. As I have mentioned many times before, I am by no means a fan of New Guinea or Merauke oils. The only one that has a place for me there is the almighty Oud Royale 82, and nothing can compete with that. That one is the Don.

EO Oud Mahmoud as a lover of these old, floral, deep, sweet, and resinous Malays I could not pass on a sample of this one. The opening had me trepidating and recalling Sultani already recalculating my oud budget but it didn't last longer than 10 minutes. Afterward, it changed to a very similar DNA akin to Purple Malay, without the zestiness. It STRONGLY brings to mind the dry down of Purple Malay and even Dokusan. That musky, incense, purple, resinous quality that I find in both those oils. It's a great oil and I like it, as I like all these Malay oils that fit this bill but do not see myself pursuing a larger amount of it. Maybe if I see some for a good price and I have the money to throw. Although it might just be redundant for me to have.

Oriscent Kelantan such a grower this one. Very unique Malaysian oil. Changes a lot during the wear but the transitions are so delicate and smooth you hardly notice. It has a Borneo quality at times with that nice Indonesian woody aroma. Yet, unlike Purple Kinam, it holds strongly to that deep resinous Malaysian DNA. Black molasses, velvety texture, fine incense smoke slowly emanating the smoothest of veils. Some hints of bitter green, sometimes dusty vanillic facets, sometimes a faint musky character. Super polished. It's a winner for me although at first I was a bit underwhelmed. This oil unfolds to me with each subsequent wear.
excellent review as usual : )
I liked every aspect of kelantan except the drydown. this oil starts so strong with oriscent signature then fell short. the earthy, petrichory, woody drydown resmbles many low end oil drydown, and this phase stays forever with the wear.
 
I liked every aspect of kelantan except the drydown.
With this one, I love the dry down the most. I find it quite unlike other Oriscents in the sense that is not recognizable as one. The opening for me is a bit mainstream but then it starts to go in all kind of directions. It's an oil of many but very subtle transitions. Ensar says it's Ahmad's Oriscent twin. At first I thought he's mad. But now I see what he meant. Ahmad has this dark vibe in the dry down that I perceive as a dark room with burning incense only slightly lit by a dim red light. Kelantan to me has the same effect but the light feels rather blue-purple and the chamber is in a 香道 Kōdō chamber instead of a Harem.
 
Sulaym HM Muateq Terengganu 1980's is my OOTD. This is first impression material here so I will add more later. In that initial get to know you whiff I get something that brings hot red pepper to mind - a kind of hot spicy note somehow like what I imagine a freshly dried cayenne pepper would smell like if heated gently on the subitism. cola note is subtle, presence is thick, heavy dense; slightly restrained presence - strong and fully heavy scent but in a dense close oily way. I get a kind of salty resinous layer, and a pleasant slight herbal pungency with no strident or offputting notes.

Not a trace of Aetoxylon or aromachems of course - it smells completely natural and authentic. I feel weird saying this because on one level of course there isn't any but on another, oud adulteration is subtle and I think it is worth stating explicitly. (I'm recovering from a time when I was told and prerttt much believed that 100% of oud in the US was in some way stretched or altered or adjusted with subtle use of aromachems etc unless it came from the most rarified of sources or direct from a laboratory at a university or something like that.)

I can't comment on the dry down because something else on my skin is competing I think some jasmine I was testing earlier in the day.

It's just such a trip to be able to experience these fine pure high quality ouds.

Imagine having enough of this stuff to give it away to people as gifts when they visited… Unbelievable
 
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mesOUD - Pursat

Moving on from the Thais to a Cambodian Crassna now. Jammy honey sweetness and dried fruits, possibly some raisins basking in the heat. On one wrist I did a far swipe, I’m getting more of that slightly bitter super sweet fruity factor coming out more, on the other wrist I did a much lighter swipe. Getting a roasted coffee warm and cozy scent coming off the lighter swipe. This is a delicious crowd pleaser oil we got here.
 
mesOUD - Malinau

There’s a famous saying, “less is more”, and it hasn’t been more evident in any oil I’ve tried like this one. I’m someone who likes to absolutely smother myself in oils, fat swiped lathered onto each wrist, forearm, neck, beard, and I’m paying the price today.

This oil opens up loud. I’m not sure if you ever had the pleasure of smelling heavily used bong water, or an ashtray full of cigarette butts left outside in the rain, but the opening of this oil will luckily have you right there!

This scent screams at you for about a minute or so, and although I found it retching, I knew there was better to come. A lovely sweet pear and melon smooth the profile out very quickly after applying. A smooth bittersweet honey drizzled over light green fruits.

I decided to do my classic big swipe on my left wrist where I was immediately assaulted by those stale stinky wet aroma. I couldn’t muster to do the same on my right, so I did a much more mild dot. My left wrist is being dominated by the ashtray opening, not allowing the fruits or honey to come out and smothering the profile. Whereas on my right wrist I’m seeing the nuances and smoothness of this oil shine. This is an oil where moderation is key.

Lesson learned haha

Edit: Not even an hour after swiping and both wrists are now smelling great. Every part of that unpleasant wet ashtray smell has completely gone away, even on the wrist with the fat swipe. Only pleasant melon and pear sweetness with a bittersweet honey. Now an earthy petrichor with hint of sweetness similar to other Sumatrans I’ve tried from Jinkoh Store. This turned out to be wayyyyy better than the opening was hinting at
 
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I have my second wearing of Huian Ko from Yusa Aromatics, 2015 distillation. This one is familiar in terms of its profile but due to regional and distillation differences (and so on) this one has its own unique vibe within that space. First, some oil associations (as far as individual notes in common): I am reminded of some of the Hainan CK oils and some sinensis oils from Wardlab and others - bitter sweetness, and a deep warm woody fuzz. I also get notes that I have smelled in the old Royal Kinam (carrot seed-ish, nagarmotha-ish). There are some other borderline pungent notes i smell in higher-end crassnas, but in this case the pungency has a deep resinous aspect that comes in and out. A little hard to pin down.

This is an interesting oil that kind of hits me in between Sinensis and Crassna. I have experienced wood like this as well - one old crassna wood that was like sinensis somewhat on the subitism. I’m still developing an understanding of its longevity and dry down. It is in line with other oils of this style for sure.
 
This was the exact deciscription i was looking for a note also this oil has
Well done bro
Thank you, it was so photorealistic I thought I was back in high school spilling bong water all over my friends basement😂 I was so worried at first, thinking “oh no, is this going to be the first oud oil I don’t enjoy😱” I’m so glad I was mistaken, it’s now such a beautiful scent, completely changed from its opening. This oil is the first one I could say is close to a “perfume” in its transitions that I’ve tried
 
Update on the yusa Huian Ko - the dry down is very "charming" - sweet nicely balanced appealing crassna baked goods and confectionery notes with some kind of ethereal "high" clean sunbleached scent that comes in and out. I like the skin scent this transitions to very much.
 
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