mesOUD - Tarakan Qadeem
Habzoud - Xiangshui
Decided to test out two different Microcarpa woods today, Tarakan Qadeem, an aged oil from brother Mehmet. Aged and gathered from trees in the North Kalimantan region. And Xiangshui, another aged oil but this time from Sumatra that brother Habzoud was so generous to send me a sample of. These are first impressions as always so please take it with a grain of salty ambergris.
Tarakan Qadeem has a touch of that soaked honey-like sweetness in the opening, dusted by dry and bitter cacao, with hints at roasted coffee beans. Warm and sweet, with slight citrus facets coming out in between those syrupy dried fruit and cacao combination. There is an earthy green moss freshness that I may be switching with that citrus note throughout the profile, but it adds a subtle but nice contrast to the deeper sweetness of this profile. Nothing off or controversial in terms of the scent here, just smooth and complex multi-faceted sweetness. It’s now getting a bit of a chewy leather aroma to it, maybe even a creamy leather if that even makes sense. As it dries a little more there’s some musky aspects that mix with with the leather to create an ambergris type funk too. Loving the way it transitions and changes its character.
Xiangshui is the same species of tree as TQ, but smells very different to me. The smell of ancient dusty leather-bound books and deteriorating paper, long-ago varnished wooden floors, and a light incense smoke similar to entering an Chinese medicine shop. As it opens up there are light teases of grapefruit tanginess behind the extremely loud smell of leather and paper, it almost has that chemical like smell of what I imagine the treatment process of leather smells like. More of a meditative and personal experience to me with the bitter and chemically leather aroma since there isn’t any sweetness to be had.
I read some reviews and saw that a lot of these ancient library notes were prominent in TQ, I feel like Xiangshui delivers that profile much more clearly and without other accompanying notes to me. TQ definitely has that aspect to it in its scent to me, an old leather and wood profile, but it’s smoothed out significantly by the accompanying sweet, citrus, and even sometimes musky/salty/ambergris aspects. Both are really beautiful specimens though and these are just first impressions.
Edit: Realized finally what Xiangshui was reminding me of, Mysterious Oud from Bortnikoff. That castoreum dusty smelling leather that’s animalic af. I get a lot of that challenging dirtiness in this oils heart that I got with that perfume. Very pleasant to a dirty guy like me, but could be a bit too much for those who like softer ouds.