Oud of the Day

[Oudamberlove]

I don't know to what degree blasts from the past are relevant (since I know these aren't leads to anything available) but I find myself spending as much time with older stuff as with newer. Been meaning to dig out my oriscent oils - i have a few I need revisit, all pre-2007 though so also blasts from the past as opposed to reviews of contemporary oils.

Also have some old feel ouds. I just cracked two bottles that have been sealed since the day I bought them (i bought two sets and this is the one left to age), trying to remember when i got them…. These are the Feel Oud Chan Ko set - one batch of "bio" plantation wood treated three ways. Oils number one and two were soaked into different types of water. I think for slightly different duration. Oil number three was a direct no-soak distillation.

The soaked oils had pronounced cherry candy sweet and sour pungent Thai aroma over a balsamic / poplar sweet-fresh aroma I smell in most young thai oils. The unsoaked oil was quite minty. It was the only one that I enjoyed wearing when they were fresh, but now after about 10 years or so if I'm remembering correctly the soaked oils are smelling less spazzy and pungent and a little more towards heavy/oudy aroma. As with most young (?) crassna oils, sense of balance is more present in the dry down than in the top/mid notes. And the dry down on these can be absolutely sublime… bright sparkling white wood split oak tangy cambodi type sweet pseudokinamish tail

I would say their scents have converged over the last 10 years. Still not crazy about the top notes... something about plantation Thai rubs me the wrong way at times.

These are likely destined to be incorporated into a perfume at least oils number one and two

I'm surprised I bought two sets of these... I think I was hoping for a little more rapid maturation and if I recall I felt the quality of the minty oil was worth the price of all three of them and I was just trying to get a second bottle of that. They were a steal and i am glad i can watch these age.

View attachment 39225

Older oils ARE relevant, they add to the data base which makes this forum awesome.

 

[PersonelHigh]

SHAH - AL SHAEEF OUDH a luscious Hindi. An ideal, sophisticated oud a discerning perfumer would reach for. The box is a keepsake as well, an understated treasure chest.

 

[Arabiad07]

HM Royal Malay by SULAYM. Farewell brethren, the oil is now finished 🙁 . I bought it around November or December I think, and got 1.25g of it, lasted quite a while.

Notes are a tad different now to what I remember, but my nose has changed, and it has been a while since I have worn it.

Starts off with a very strong, rich sweet resin note, followed by sweet and sour purple berries, and greenery forest notes, after 15-20 mins it became more well rounded, and more balanced between the sweet and sour, but also I detected a sour CHERRY note and was like, what the...??? Never seen this before in this oil, and it was semi-sweet, mostly sour along side purple sour berries and sweet ones too, there is also this relaxing "wet" note, not like petrichor but actually like rainfall of literal resin lol, it gave me some buzz, with some mild gasoline like notes. Woody notes come in and you get some incense notes that are quite smokey but very clean, but with some animalic, fermented, muskiness... strange, never smelled that from this oil before, but it lasted a good hour in the smokey incense note, with the fruits and stuff in the background, and some bitterness coming along. 2 hours into it now and there is a more creamy, antique woodiness, which is the normal Malaysian wood note that I experience with wild malaysian wood too, about 30 mins before, the strong clean smokey wood note was more of a rich, regal dark purple wood note (if that makes sense)? The pleasing bitterness is gone, and it is mostly going onto the end of the heart notes, with a creamy, antique woody (but less resinous) incense note, with some undernotes of the fruits, very sweet again. Slight purple berries with a fancy, regal, ROYAL if you will cola note combined together. A very purple oil for sure... one I will miss!!!

Subtle minty notes start to develop as well, with purple confectionary and purple fizzy cola, and an ALMOST kinamic-like creaminess, but points more towards the creamy wood note you get from Malaysian woods and most oils.

Starting to remember that this is a very exotic oil after the 2 hour mark, goes from forest to jungle, to rainforest to forest to jungle repeat. It's such an awesome oil, I hope there is some left somewhere haha.

This was my first artisanal oud oil ever... sad to see it go.

Oh forgot to mention, the forest note is kinda always there to an extent in most parts of this oil if not all.

Thank you @SULAYM for breaking by artisanal Oud virginity with such an amazing oil 😍😂

EDIT: There is more nuanced notes going further than what I wrote, but I couldn't wear it for the full 4-6 hour heart note then 6 - 8 hour dry down and still remember all the notes. So, every write up I do I usually smell oils for 2-3 hours and then do a write up, then i keep adding on different notes I smell while doing the write up.

I personally think it holds its weight against the original Oud Royale 1. It’s a fantastic Maroke and so resinous and smooth. Some dark purple berries in there.

 

[Escentually]

@mesOUD - Dehn Al Oud Hindi Siraj

Beautiful Agallocha barnyard funk. Goat hair, raw hide leather, molten chocolate, slightly fecal in the best way possible. I sometimes wish for the simple life of a farmer, far away from the nuisances of the modern world and civilization. Then I remember how grueling the work is maintaining a farm, and reconsider. Swiping Siraj tickles that fancy without breaking the back.

 

[-Renton-]

I personally think it holds its weight against the original Oud Royale 1. It’s a fantastic Maroke and so resinous and smooth. Some dark purple berries in there.

Maroke? HM Royal Malay is a Malaysian oud, my brother 🙂.

 

[iori]

Oriscent Papuya LTD
Beast

 

[The Scent Guru]

Rotating through my Oxford Ouds. Today is a Nagaland; Rich dark bitter chocolate, tobacco leaf and coffee grounds.

 

[-Renton-]

Fushigi - Brunei Kyere/Kyara

Very nice but short living oud (lasts around 2.5 hours till base notes then 30 mins till dry down where it becomes rather weak).

It smells like high quality Brunei "Kinam" heating on a kinam heater or subitism all the they way through, as if you are heating it and it brings notes of the actual wood for 2 - 3 hours.

Starts with a sweet, somewhat resinous, purple fruit note, some sour fruits too, purple florals, with pink and purple florals near the end, mainly pink. Very woody in a very peculiar way, cant describe it, just like a wood that is being heated. Milky, creamy, kinamic notes, slight mintiness, coolness, and bitter, sourness. These are the main notes I can remember and I think thats all I could pick up really.

Then dry down is like a woody, slightly kinamic, petrichor vibe.

I am gonna get another 0.25g bottle, it's not ran out yet, still a good amount left, but gonna buy their Nha Trang oil in September first then another Brunei 0.25g so I can wear it in the colder weather to see if it shines more notes into my nose as these are, what I like to call, super new gen oils, since it's like the wood actually being heated, unlike other new gens, which are beautiful but just have a different style of new gen, like Hirta Deadwood (oh how i Love that one, I am also saving most of that for the winter, even though I have quite a lot left)

Photo when I first got them, because I think this is my first write up on Brunei Kyere/Kyara that I actually tried to do and pick notes out:

 

[Xerohome]

Fushigi - Brunei Kyere/Kyara

Very nice but short living oud (lasts around 2.5 hours till base notes then 30 mins till dry down where it becomes rather weak).

It smells like high quality Brunei "Kinam" heating on a kinam heater or subitism all the they way through, as if you are heating it and it brings notes of the actual wood for 2 - 3 hours.

Starts with a sweet, somewhat resinous, purple fruit note, some sour fruits too, purple florals, with pink and purple florals near the end, mainly pink. Very woody in a very peculiar way, cant describe it, just like a wood that is being heated. Milky, creamy, kinamic notes, slight mintiness, coolness, and bitter, sourness. These are the main notes I can remember and I think thats all I could pick up really.

Then dry down is like a woody, slightly kinamic, petrichor vibe.

I am gonna get another 0.25g bottle, it's not ran out yet, still a good amount left, but gonna buy their Nha Trang oil in September first then another Brunei 0.25g so I can wear it in the colder weather to see if it shines more notes into my nose as these are, what I like to call, super new gen oils, since it's like the wood actually being heated, unlike other new gens, which are beautiful but just have a different style of new gen, like Hirta Deadwood (oh how i Love that one, I am also saving most of that for the winter, even though I have quite a lot left)

Photo when I first got them, because I think this is my first write up on Brunei Kyere/Kyara that I actually tried to do and pick notes out:
View attachment 39263

if you think brunei is weak, their nha trang is far weaker oil, and maybe one of the weakest I ever tried.
I think your description is spot on for the brunei kyara, although I think the performance maybe slightly better than what you have mentioned.
Brunei Kyere is one of the best oils I ever tried, and easily can be classified as an oriscent oil. I've shared it with multiple friends and all have the same conclusion.

 

[-Renton-]

if you think brunei is weak, their nha trang is far weaker oil, and maybe one of the weakest I ever tried.
I think your description is spot on for the brunei kyara, although I think the performance maybe slightly better than what you have mentioned.
Brunei Kyere is one of the best oils I ever tried, and easily can be classified as an oriscent oil. I've shared it with multiple friends and all have the same conclusion.

Yeah, its probably because of the heat and very high humidity in Scotland. I think I wont buy any other oils off them until its the end of September. I guess I will go with 0.3g of JK's Wild Nha Trang oil in September then, instead of Fushigi's. What other ones do you recommend from fushigi?

 

[FreeSoul]

Maroke? HM Royal Malay is a Malaysian oud, my brother 🙂.

Oud Royale 1 I think is a maroke so I believe that what he was referring to

 

[Dr B1414]

I've been enjoying Hindi oils more and more over the past few months. I always loved their profile but lately, I've been craving them like never before. I think they have overthrown the Sinensis oils (Vietnam/China/Laos) for the 3rd spot of my favorite regions for oud. Which right now, stands as Malay, Indonesia (Borneo/Maluku/Brunei), and India.
For the day:

AA Nashila
EO Oud Mostafa 2021

I find both to display the same woody DNA/backbone. Deep, serious, not overly resinous or sweet, a bit dry, and clean. Maybe Mostafa has a bit more oomph/personality. Nashila is so colorful. Red powder but not fruity. I don't detect any fruits for that matter. Some creamy nuttiness, some pepper, tarragon, and a subtle sweetness that feels more like resin than the typical honey note these Hinids have. Serious oil, no playfulness. Oud Mostafa 2021 is probably the best-valued oil in my collection. Alongside the Purple Malay. When I say best value I mean that the oil smells way more expensive than the price it sold for when available. The Purple Malay and this Oud Mostafa are hands down the best value oils I own. If I see another bottle of this particular version I'll grab some more no doubt. It is so addictive. Deep brown, on the dry side, and LOADED on dark cocoa powder. For someone like me who is a cocoa addict, this oil has a very high crave factor. I swipe some every week and sometimes just smell it from the cap. Not as complex as Nashila or other Hindi oils but it delivers exactly what I want. Not overly sweet, there are some spices, only hints of purple berries now and then. It's mostly smooth aloe and cocoa. Sometimes it feels dry and powdery other times it shifts to a more creamy texture. I need more of it because the way I swipe it won't last me enough. I always swipe the less pricey oils like a maniac. Pair that with a mouthwatering profile and you have a recipe for "backup bottle" worthy.

Both these oils are quite rare in terms of the scent profile. Not the typical Hindis loaded on hay, honey, leather, clay/earth, and fruits. Rather atypical. Only I know how long I searched for an Indian oil that displays strong cocoa facets, that is also clean and smooth.

 

[Arabiad07]

Oud Royale 1 I think is a maroke so I believe that what he was referring to

Misread his post. Thought he said Royale Maroke

Royal Malay, Royale Maroke, Purple Malay are fantastic from Sulaym and SQ.

 

[FreeSoul]

Misread his post. Thought he said Royale Maroke

Royal Malay, Royale Maroke, Purple Malay are fantastic from Sulaym and SQ.

🤦🏻‍♂️that makes sense, i Did think it was interesting comparing royal Malay to oud royal 1 but i have not tried either!

 

[Arabiad07]

🤦🏻‍♂️that makes sense, i Did think it was interesting comparing royal Malay to oud royal 1 but i have not tried either!

Actually there’s a clear similarity between all the old SQ oils.

Purple Malay is very similar to me to OR1 just with more purple.

Idk if it’s the quality of wood or age or distillation technique. But the DNA between all of them is there.

 

[FreeSoul]

Actually there’s a clear similarity between all the old SQ oils.

Purple Malay is very similar to me to OR1 just with more purple.

Idk if it’s the quality of wood or age or distillation technique. But the DNA between all of them is there.

Interesting! maybe there was a well known distiller that was used and well known by wealthy families that was trusted to do there distillations and his signature causes the similarity.

 

[Escentually]

@AlHindOud - Koh Kong Imperial
@mesOUD - Koh Kong

Two Cambodian oils from the Koh Kong region, both distilled in 2022, both Aquillaria Crassna species as well. What a treat it is to be able to compare two oils that came from such similar backgrounds.

I’ll begin with Koh Kong Imperial from AlHind. It begins with an incredibly loud sour apricot, plum, date and various stonefruit like notes. Extremely pungent, with a tamarind like sourness to them. There’s a strong bitter and spicy medicinal betel nut that’s quite prominent too. It takes a long time for this initial scent to change and become a bit more honeyed to me. Candy like honeyed sweetness, the fruits become a little less cheesy and sour and a bit more classically sweet. It feels very thick, resinous, and pungent the whole way through. A very heavy oil.

Koh Kong from Mehmet shares many similarities with its brother from AlHind, but presents them differently. Mehmets Koh Kong opens up with the same kind of sour dried stonefruit smell, but equally present is a semi damp earthiness. It smells green, herbal, slightly jungly. The sour tamarind like fruit mixed with a pleasant petrichor note. As this one sits it starts feeling much drier, and transitions from its opening notes much quicker than AlHinds Koh Kong. The earthiness had dried and the sour spiciness from the fruits has begun to smell like a leather and tobacco now. Some hints of honey and chocolate there too. It’s simultaneously sour, sweet, dry, spicy. A lot to take in at once.

I’d say that Koh Kong Imperial is a stronger oil, projecting off the skin much heavier with a more pungent set of notes. Koh Kong from Mehmet doesn’t scream as loud, but the way it sings to me is a more complex tune. I wouldn’t call Imperial linear, but I wouldn’t say it contains as many different facets as Mehmets Koh Kong. Granted, this is me wearing both oils side by side, which can cause certain notes to cancel each other out from similar oils. Both are fantastic examples from the regions woods though, just in their own special way.

 

[Dr B1414]

Purple Malay is very similar to me to OR1 just with more purple.

This is so true. I find it amazing how our noses seem to perceive oils so similarly. I messaged Faizal shortly after getting the P Malay asking if it was not a Papuan co-distill as it smelt so similar to OR. You are absolutely right. To this day, I still believe there might be some Merauke wood in there also.

 

[Mr.P]

i have one oil that bears the adjective purple and that is an oriscent oil called Purple Papua aka The Purple Nurple 😂 . To those of you who experience the purpleness, does this oil align well with your concept of olfactory-purple? I'm hoping to understand that a little better.

 

[Mr.P]

Here's and ALD co2/ethanol indonesian Oud extract "History of Indonesian Oud". i'm fuzzy on this but I think it's some special hybrid ethanol and carbon dioxide extraction process… Quite an unusual aroma that is not like alcohol extracts or co2 oils I have smelled. This smells like a co2 total on one level - there is this broad dry woodiness that is very familiar. This is more the cool dry aroma of a box of Indonesian wood chips than the smell of heated oud. It has a kind of wet presence maybe akin to fuin's incense. The most salient other note i get is of clove oil / eugenol. I don't know if this is a trick of the nose (where several different smelling things combined to smell like eugenol) or not, but if you told me there was clove involved, I would believe you 100%. It's a nice combination and is part of the unique fragrance that this extract has. I have smelled too much oud to have any perspective on what this smells like to a civilian. I feel this one may have people thinking you've been spending the day working in the wetlands, for better or worse. I look forward to continuing to wear this on my own, not sure about in public.