Agarwood Oil from @Feroz Alloo (uh*Roh*Muh): I wanted to try out some of their natural oils and their assam oil as well, and when brother @Feroz Alloo learnt that I am an Ouddict member, he sent in a free sample of their assam oil.
It has that typical hindi smell, the profile reminds me of the Ajmal Indian oils that I have/smelled, definitely barn and a little bit more intense and musky than the Ajmal Oils. Its not going to be the top quality artisan stuff here at the price of 108$/5ml, but for the price I think its a good hindi, would love to hear opinions of our other experts here. Also a shout out to their vetiver oil and sandalwood oil, nice and affordable stuff.
I have very limited experience so I may be off the mark here, just my personal views, would love to hear your thoughts and be corrected. 🙂
 
Last edited:
[Ouddict.com] Oud Reviews


I will not detail all the three oils as they are quite similar.
N4 (on the left) is a co-distillation of sinking and incense grade woods. two other are made with incense grade woods.
The three oils are vietnam oud.
You get all what you expect in a oil from this region.
Berries, tamarinds and of course leather what made vietnamese oil so appreciat.
N4 is my favorite because it have a nice caramel note.
They have a very nice and smooth incensy drydown...I personaly love it.
Projection and longevity are quite good, not nuclear at all. Personaly its not what Iam expecting from gentleman oil.
Those oils are quite young, one year maximum, and they aged lovely.
Price is $145/gr
Tony is one of the best person I ever deal with.
No website for the moment but you can easely contact him by facebook.
And he has the best wood (bakhoor) quality I know for sell
 
Last edited:
My thoughts on AgarwoodAssam's Āsāma Garjana:

I generally shy away from full-on "classic" (i.e. barnyard) Hindi oud oils. Unlike many oud afficionados, I wasn't exposed to their smell when growing up and there was absolutely nothing that would prepare me for that type of olfactory sensation in my culture and environment. Oud generally is insanely complex and can take years for a new convert to wrap their mind around it. It was challenging enough for me to "get" even the more Western-friendly oud scent profiles like Borneo and Cambodian so the first time I tried an Assam oil (an old Oriscent classic), I was almost terrified 🙂 It was all war drums, horse hooves and heavy steps and clanking armour of marching troops. The raw primal energy was like a glimpse of a different world that is inhabited by heroes and villains, battling each other in earnest and living their lives to the fullest while we impatiently whip out our iPhones to check the Twitter feeds because the elevator ride is longer than 10 seconds. What can I possibly have in common with that violent and glorious world? It's too visceral and too real for someone like me!

Years passed and I still felt that I am too much of a wimp for the classic Hindi oud. I've dipped my toes into the gentler, well-behaved no-barn Hindis along the way and found them fascinating and enjoyable but subconsciously felt that while they shared much of their wilder cousins' DNA, something was missing from their composition - almost like looking at a doped up predator in a hazed slumber in front of a gawking audience. Well, I told myself - that's the compromise I have to make to enjoy a Hindi oud.

When I received a sample of an Āsāma Garjana (Assam Roars) from BengalRoots I didn't expect much from it. Sure, I am a sucker for any good quality pure oud and enjoy sampling even if just to see my previous ideas and opinions confirmed. After all, I sort of accepted the fact that the classic Hindi oud is not for me, it should be enjoyed by someone who grew up with it or lives in a place where that kind of a scent is socially accepted. The name of the oil, which translates as "Assam Roars" suggested like it would be an oil that wouldn't change my opinions in any way. Nevertheless, I was grateful to BengalRoots for the chance to try it an excited at the opportunity to sample a new oil from a genre that I am least familiar with.

The first time I opened the vial I was amazed at how diffusive the scent of the oil was - I didn't even have to sniff the plastic applicator, the aroma bloomed outwards and projected from a good distance. A first impression is often the most important and Āsāma Garjana didn't hesitate to greet me loud and clear 🙂 The scent was bright and vibrant, with a healthy dose of clean barn intertwined with sun-warmed wood and dried hay. I found myself surprised at actually LIKING the barn component; it's not violent, harsh and dismissive but instead vivacious, youthful and upbeat. It feels like a space filled with light and life, no darkness, mustiness or decay.

The barn diminishes very quickly and woodiness comes out. The scent clearly changes but the transformation is very subtle as the two qualities are so similar and so harmoniously related to each other it's hard to tell them apart at times. The barn can suddenly jump up again if the body temperature rises or recede almost entirely into its sibling woodiness. The scent remains sunny, bright and playful throughout. I was also surprised at how the scent stays detectable throughout the day, hardly any olfactory fatigue which often diminishes the perception of the aroma and takes away from the enjoyment of an oud.

I could never quite understand how oud can be described in terms of other smells, like coffee, raspberries, roses etc. When I read such descriptions I can't imagine what these can possibly smell like in the context of oud, so I try to stick to the concepts that make sense to me olfactorily - oudiness, woodiness, sweetness, bitterness, smokiness, resin, and a few even more subjective categories like diffusiveness, light/dark, young/old etc. Āsāma Garjana has the oudiness and woodiness in spades, the barn never quite goes away but becomes more of a nuance of the woody aspect, intermingled with sweet oudy quality. The mid-stage is great - the harmony between the barn and the wood aroma takes on an almost vibrating quality, as if they sing together in perfect synchronicity. The dry down is where the youthful playfulness finally takes a rest while the sweet universal oudiness persists, becoming sweeter and allowing the dried hay aroma to become more evident. I enjoy all three stages but the mid-stage is probably my favourite, that silent humming quality (pardon the paradoxical descriptive) of a perfect synergy of notes is something that I seek out and long for the most in oud oils.

The only quality that I wish this oil had more of is multilayered depth (for the lack of a better word). Or a wider dynamic range - which I understand to be an extended olfactory scale where the airy top notes and succulent heart notes are supported and amplified by low, deep bass notes. Āsāma Garjana is not devoid of the bassiness, but the deep notes are very polite and would definitely give the whole composition an additional oomph if they could be turned up. Having said that, I am not even sure this this is a valid observation, as I tend to compare whatever new oil I sample with my golden standard benchmarks, most of which are from some years ago when the oud scene was very different. Either way - Āsāma Garjana may not have the wizened depth of some of the legendary Hindi's of the past, but it's still dear to me for being my guide into the wonderful world of the classic Hindi oud and its signature note.

In short, Āsāma Garjana did not change my life, but I think I finally "get" what the classic Hindi lovers find in their beloved oils - the uncompromising vitality and the unmistakable vigor that a good Hindi can deliver. I not just understand that now but enjoy this quality that is hard to find in other oud genres, even among my most treasured and loved oils. Āsāma Garjana’s lively, bright and open presentation coupled with a harmonious unison on all the notes during its song make this oil very addictive (I smelled the heck out of my sample). Luckily, also very powerful, with only the tiniest amount needed make it sing at full volume. I also found myself reaching out for this oil to put on a small amount just before bedtime - there's something very soothing and comforting in its scent, and the drydown in the morning is a glorious welcome of the new day 🙂

I traded a few messages with BengalRoots and I understand that he's an individual who is not only interested in oud as a business venture, but someone who hears oud's poetry and has a deep passion for recreating "the Hindi" that made the Hindi the original oud loved and treasured for generations. I understand that his oils are offered at prices that make them a lot more accessible in a world where most (myself included) feel that they are hopelessly priced out of the market. I am very grateful to BengalRoots for his kind gesture of providing me a free sample and wish him every success that he deserves as someone who's not just a oud distiller and seller but a fellow ouddict himself! Hindi oud is possibly one of the least offered in the recent years as business follows the quickly vanishing wood to Thailand, Papua and Malaysia. Perhaps, Hindi oud is not quite as easy for a new oud convert to appreciate as some other scent profiles but it has the unique primordial energy that triggers some ancient genetic memories on the deepest level, and it has been "the oud" for a very long time. I hope BengalRoots is able to create more top notch oils in that proud tradition!
The best review I have ever read.
Definitely will have some Assama Garjana with my feta and tea this morning @F4R1d0uX
 
I can comment on the bit about Ensar's impressions on Thaqeel. I know the "Russian customer" he mentions and can confirm that the Thaqeel he had picked up in Dubai was anything but the original Thaqeel that we know and love. It was a crappy, clearly blended concoction of many different oud oils and God knows what else that doesn't smell like the original Thaqeel at all. He was ripped off.

I send Ensar a sample of the original Thaqeel several years ago and he replied with this:

I've only applied one swipe thus far, and I can tell you there is a trace of synthetic musk I detect, along with stainless steel, not very careful cooking; definitely cultivated; 20 year old trees at the most.

I'm going to save the sample to bring to my 'mad scientist' distiller, who can sniff out the percentage of cultivated and wild trees in an oil without fail. Tested him a few times, and he always got it right.

Now the difference between Thaqeel and Ambre d'Angkor (which I just applied on the inside of my wrist), is that while Thaqeel has a faint synthetic musk aroma, Angkor is ablaze with the animalics of true deer musk (while being pure oud oil) -- mind you, no fecal barny notes; musk!

Not trying to sell you anything, just making conversation... I hope you don't misunderstand my intentions here.


Take this as you will, I personally disagree with Ensar's assessment. But I will freely admit that I only go by what I smell and can't produce a mass-spectrometer test result proving or disproving presense of synthetic musk in Thaqeel. I am also not qualified to "sniff out the percentage of cultivated and wild trees in an oil" (assuming such a feat is even humanly possible).
:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
IO Imperial Konbaung (burmese oil)
it was long overdue. i had been thinking about this one for a week. this morning we met again. a very polite and mostly inward oil. low projection and civilized. layered, nuanced and one that begs your attention to gently peel its many layers.

gentle and toned down citrus peel notes, citrus blossom, white flowers, jasmine buds, subtle cooling menthol/camphorous notes. super gentle bitterness of chinese oils in the heart and an even gentler tobacco notes of hindi oils behind it.

no fruits other than citrus zest. no animal. no funk, no barn. if i had to associate a colour to this oil to capture its essence it would be a baby yellow with streaks of very light baby green.

i am loving quieter oils these days. they are not an assault on the senses and allow the wearer to approach them instead of it force itself on you.

final thoughts: this is one of the most well rounded, novice-friendly yet enough going on to easily capture the interest of most seasoned oudh aficionados.

well done @Faizal_p
 
sotd EO jing shen lu

I think i get why some don't receive oils like this well. at first, i couldn't fathom why some folks overlooked oils like this, yusuf, etc. now that i have had many repeat exposures to them, i get it. i dont necessarily agree wholly, but i get it. I still think they deserve a place amongst all oudh lovers collection and their existence is one to celebrate.

cool, minty, tea tree oil, snap peas, papaya, dried apricots. squeeky clean and delicious smelling. just not mind bending. not much vertical complexity. is priced more or less right though.
 
HOM brunei hues
@hasans1412 has crafted a beautiful oil. a very fine line this oil threads on and maintains its wood origin integrity and yet clearly shows the method and intent of the cooking. 50-50 brunei/north borneo vs assam.

personal, close to skin and very polite. airy and lithe not light. no huge projection but long lasting. light baby green notes, mild bitter (not quite chinese but moe vietnamese, i.e. less insesis more crassna), oolong tea, touch salty, open knit and elegant notes are married by white pepper (clean horse and barn note), some light fermented notes of mushroom, tea and hint of a savoury meaty aroma. brunei hues is a unique oil and one that fans of assam oils and brunei should try.

iron fist in a velvet glove description makes sense here.

at this point of my oud appreciation, my own personal aesthetic calls for no visible soak smell and no barn at all, but there is no denying the deft touch of these notes in this oil. subtle and done just right. being a young young oil, i look forward to watch its evolution.
 
Kanzen
I put a cotton swab into the sample vial of Kanzen to extract the remaining oil clinging to the inner vial walls. It's been a couple of weeks now, and when I pull the swab out for a sniff, I get HIT with some powerful Cambodi.

Kanzen is a must-have for new-age Cambodi oud lovers.
 
Kanzen is the real deal. I can only imagine taha pricing it as is for one of three reasons and none has to do with quality
1) he has a series of high priced oils in pipeline. As such one had to be priced below, way below others. Is good biz sense. We get to reap the benefits.
2) cash flow
3) brand building
4) he has lost it. Gone cray cray 😉

I feel is option 1
 
@Oudamberlove, thanks for reviewing this oil. Would you please depict its notes further, and shed light on some other Cambodis. Kenzen I haven't tried, and not impressed by other Cambodis.

@ dearest Rasoul, will a day come when we estimate that the artisanal oils priced not because of three above mentioned factors, but because price actually has to be so😉?
Well, what I have sensed from the Oud oil blogs, price is directly proportional to the hectic endeavors to acquire wood and the patience to age the oils are explicit factor. Superb wood, but easily acquired leads to low prices. Mediocre grade wood but acquired after travelling a lot, etc. leads to high prices. Of course, market value of the brands is another implicit factor. Last, Oud is a luxury, and you know, luxuries are priced high all over the world. If priced low, that is Dump Investment, to oust the competitors.

Now the environment is quite different for the last few months. Logical Price Era. Now the up-coming time will witness prices mounting up abnormally. I have gathered it from the blogs, and the environment of the market that is being made ready for price hike. Media Cells😉. Anyway, it is beauty.
 
Kanzen is the real deal. I can only imagine taha pricing it as is for one of three reasons and none has to do with quality
1) he has a series of high priced oils in pipeline. As such one had to be priced below, way below others. Is good biz sense. We get to reap the benefits.
2) cash flow
3) brand building
4) he has lost it. Gone cray cray 😉

I feel is option 1


I have to add to this and say that Kanzen is one of the best “value” Ouds I have come across this year. I use speech marks as it’s not an indication of the quality which is uncompromising.

Just like @Bengal Roots Laos 95, Kanzen is an Oud that sits in the wrong price bracket and could easily have been priced at double the price and still been a bargain.
 
@Oudamberlove, thanks for reviewing this oil. Would you please depict its notes further, and shed light on some other Cambodis. Kenzen I haven't tried, and not impressed by other Cambodis.

@ dearest Rasoul, will a day come when we estimate that the artisanal oils priced not because of three above mentioned factors, but because price actually has to be so😉?
Well, what I have sensed from the Oud oil blogs, price is directly proportional to the hectic endeavors to acquire wood and the patience to age the oils are explicit factor. Superb wood, but easily acquired leads to low prices. Mediocre grade wood but acquired after travelling a lot, etc. leads to high prices. Of course, market value of the brands is another implicit factor. Last, Oud is a luxury, and you know, luxuries are priced high all over the world. If priced low, that is Dump Investment, to oust the competitors.

Now the environment is quite different for the last few months. Logical Price Era. Now the up-coming time will witness prices mounting up abnormally. I have gathered it from the blogs, and the environment of the market that is being made ready for price hike. Media Cells😉. Anyway, it is beauty.

i on the other hand think, while many factors are at play and different from vendor to vendor, that what makes for a high vs super high vs lower grade oil is the concentration of a certain note that we as a community and the distillers themselves have decided is favored and sought after. take those kinam like notes. the less busy the oil and more of that kinam note it has the higher the price: take EO sultan ahmet or AA special K series as one example.

in other instances is the rarity of the material: e.g. true malinau agarwood, or nha trang...
 
Which issue with Cambodi oils ?

... & which category on your first ranking ?
First rank goes to Hindis, and second rank to Malaysians.

My issues with Cambodis are a weakening of scent as they age, either too sweet or too floral, lack of sheer oudiness, if soaked for weeks the barnyard and accompanying notes are not as refined like Hindis.
Those issues are limited only to the oils I have tried. I'm sure that there have been a lot of wonderful Cambodi oils made through the centuries, so please take my critique as just my small personal preference. It still holds third rank with some other regions, so that's a plus🙂🙂
 
how is oud royale by ensar oud(sultan series)

I haven't tried it, but I have sampled Ensar's Sinhajara X which came across as a good Sri Lankan, in the same bracket as scent profile as Sinhajara from Imperial Oud. You would have to ask someone else about the comparison between the Ensar Oud Royale Sri Lanka and his Sinharaja X.

What I can tell you is that the Adhirajya original batch is way beyond any Sri Lankan I have smelled - it reminded me of the original Oriscent Borneo 3000, but with something else going on too.
 
Back
Top