nigredo by Anna zworykina from a sample. she is really growing on me and I think under appreciated in the all naturals department, very crisp and well defined fragrance. mossy with oud, kind of austere and almost reminds me of a natural mitsuoku.
 
apres le soir sample by elixir attar- this is just absolutely beautiful. to say it smells like iris.. even with owning the other two iris perfumes by elixir i wouldn’t be able to recognize it honestly as an iris perfume. it really is a captivating effect that is very complex. the most succinct way i could describe it is juicy like an apricot, slightly smokey, slightly powdery, and for sure musky. it is regal and juicy first and foremost like the distillation of summer fruit, maybe brandy with fresh plum or apricot inside. it gives me a kind of boozy idea throughout i believe this quality merges with the floral quality which this perfume is a blend of blues, purples, reddish purple for me. this is a darker floral, not feminine at all like absolutely nothing i have smelled before, a smokey boozy powdery musky floral is a really unique combo. i don’t get any oud distinct from it, though he lists an ASO oud in here al ameen, but i can see how it can help structure than animalic and slightly woodsy base, what an incredible thing this is, perfumery at the highest level to me.
 
Payan Bertrand Jasmine Absolute Extra (Egypt)


The sample came along with an order I made of some materials from perfume supply house. Ridiculously generous sample. This is a truly fine Egyptian Jasmine like I have not encountered in a long time - the core is intensely voluptuous and sweet without any mothball or excessive indole note. In most of the Jasmine absolutes from Egypt that I have sampled over the last 10 years something always seems a bit off to me - a little bit sour, or strange violet-leaf notes, or kind of cloyingly sweet in an off putting way. This oil is intense and concentrated but has none of the off notes of lower quality jasmine. Amazingly well focused extract - I am astounded. I was expecting something like the Camden gray sample I mentioned a while back, which smells to me like a very fine Jasmine, but this is on an entirely different level.

This reinforces a sense I have that basically all of the good jasmine absolute is bought up by sophisticated buyers for larger suppliers and generally sold in larger volumes to perfume manufacturers who can afford the bulk purchase.

What’s great about perfume supply house is they can make things available that might be out of reach otherwise (for example, the minimum order from Payan Bertrand is around $600). This oil is not one they currently stock but I worked out a deal with the owner where I would pay for 25 g and they would make up the difference for the $600 order and keep the rest for themselves. So that may mean that they will be selling this in smaller quantities in the future if I understand correctly. If you like straight up Jasmine absolute, this one is worth getting your hands on - I have not seen its equal sold by any US retailer.

This stuff is like jasmine candy or something. I’m not a big candy fan... That’s a terrible simile, but i mean it in the sense of just being appealing to the senses on a pretty fundamental level.
 

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Today I am wearing “liatrix” absolute from Firmenich. This is a really surprising material combining a strong Tonka bean note with a sweet hay absolute note and some ethereal top note I can’t quite put my finger on. Great stuff to enjoy by itself and would be a great addition to blends.
 
Centurion from Ahom Oud. Jammy fruits cut through with strong bitterness like orange peel and black herbs. Henna, tobacco, saffron, together with Assam and Manipur ouds create this deeply bitter chord which provides a strong counter to the prettiness of florals and sandalwood. Whisps of rose and musk hint at refinement, but this is very freaky attar. Extreme through herbal bitterness rather than animalic or barn elements.

I see Ahom Oud have some new attars available but they haven't given descriptions for everything...
 
Al Ghalyia 2 & 3 by @Oudamberlove
I have oils that he sent me years ago sitting with me at my work desk. I forgot to bring some oud oils to wear today so I fall back to these 🙂 4x homemade AGs, Ajmal Masterpiece, EO Assam Meghalaya Organic & a Champaca attar 🙂
I hope they didn’t throw you out after all those. 😅

Just kidding, sounds delectable
 
Lots of attar stuff today... Olefaktory Galore in the morning, Dr. Incense Lotus Oud in the evening. Then did some work on an attar based on night jasmine and stinky Trat 😋. Now winding down with aged Java patchouli from Yusa + Kashani Green rose from The Oud Lab. This rose is viney and soft in the top notes so it sits nicely within the patchouli.
 
Crassna Vanilla by Hikayat. Beast mode sweet Thai oud spray. Performance and longevity is huge. I get a smoky cigar undertone and a little bitterness, which gives this composition an unnatural feeling. In terms of smoky, strong and sickly sweet aspects, it reminds me of Black Orchid and Tobacco Vanille by TF, which I dont like at all. At the end of the day, an affordable real oud perfume if you like Thai ouds.
 
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