Definitely get samples because some of you it sounds like have much more experience with jasmine oils from a variety of sources. It is such a complex oil and can really come across very differently to different people due for example to varying sensitivities to indole among other things.

When any of you do get a sample, I would love to read your impressions either here or via private message.
 
Next up I hope would be a Robertet oil. I don’t know if this is a fact, but I read once that the entirety of Robertet’s French Jasmine harvest is pre-purchased by various corporations and none ever actually makes it to the typical wholesalers and retailers. So I am expecting the only jasmine I will find from them is one from some other geographic origin like India or Egypt. Still, to be able to buy jasmine from a company with the caliber of buyers and market access that they have is an exciting thought.

I would love to get my hands on a select grade of jasmine from Morocco. The four absolutes that I have sampled from that region were all really appealing.
 
Next up I hope would be a Robertet oil. I don’t know if this is a fact, but I read once that the entirety of Robertet’s French Jasmine harvest is pre-purchased by various corporations and none ever actually makes it to the typical wholesalers and retailers. So I am expecting the only jasmine I will find from them is one from some other geographic origin like India or Egypt. Still, to be able to buy jasmine from a company with the caliber of buyers and market access that they have is an exciting thought.

I would love to get my hands on a select grade of jasmine from Morocco. The four absolutes that I have sampled from that region were all really appealing.

I'm really enjoying reading about your jasmine quest šŸ™‚
 
Definitely get samples because some of you it sounds like have much more experience with jasmine oils from a variety of sources. It is such a complex oil and can really come across very differently to different people due for example to varying sensitivities to indole among other things.

When any of you do get a sample, I would love to read your impressions either here or via private message.
Mr P has a good nose for jasmine.
 
Hey, thanks for that!

Juhi is a wild one. I have smelled a concrete and absolute and have distilled juhi oil from the concrete. Very weird and wild type of jasmine - nothing like grandiflorum but wonderful in its own right and with a gardenia nuance buried in there that is quite nice.
 
Am wearing Camden Grey Egyptian jasmine on one wrist and Peyan Bertrand on the other. The Camden gray resembles the general category of Egyptian jasmine I’m used to encountering, and seemed above average to me. Its top note had a bit of the green stem / Violet leaf note but it is milder than some others and as a result the sweet fruity floral candy aspects are a little more prominent. I’m used to getting what seems like a faint gasoline smell from oils like this (although don’t believe it could literally be residual hexane or anything). Whatever the reason, it’s something that comes out in some absolutes and the Camden oil has a little bit of that gas note in the top.

The Bertrand oil has none of the violet leaf or sweet/sour layers of the Camden Grey oil and lacks the faint gasoline layer.

Its top note has a lot of complexity and is multilayered but what stands out is in terms of these fresh yet deep undulating floral waves and this one unique resonant ā€œthingā€ that jasmine does to my olfactory system - there’s also a certain perfectly integrated scintillating tanginess that is captivating.

Over time, the Camden grey oil exhibits a certain bright fresh fruity jasmine aspect with a really up front polleny sweetness and green banana thing and jasmine wax notes.

The Bertrand oil develops along a different trajectory, it is a dense jammy jasmine that is again intensely floral in a deep multilayered way when sniffed a little more deeply.

By the way are you all aware that Eden is now owned by and a retail outlet for Biolandes? I meant to post that here I can’t remember if I did or not. I don’t know the exact details, but I was reading a blog posted by Eden botanicals laying out the change. This is good news for anybody interested in organically cultivated oils in particular.
 
I am wearing a swipe of a ā€œflorasolā€ extract of Indian jasmine flowers. Florasols are a one step extraction process using an odorless gas/fluid that is more or less what is used as propellant in asthma inhalers. Very benign material that rapidly boils off at low temperatures and is easily recovered.

The smell is akin to an absolute as is the appearance and silage and anyone who has smelled Indian Jasmine absolute would immediately recognize this is something similar. I wish someone would make more of this stuff it is star of my collection and I don’t know how long it can stay smelling great for. Very balanced fruity candy and floral notes with no overwhelming or cloying aspects. Reminds me a bit of a sample of grasse enfleurage Jasmine I got many years ago. Similar but that Grasse oil was on another level.

The Grasse jasmine stood out, not in terms of smelling totally different, but in terms of the relative intensities of all of the various nuances of jasmine being in an especially pleasing balance - just delicious
 
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ballad no 1 elixir attar:

this is a beast. the musk is super strong and present through the opening and mid phase. it’s very much traditional french or old school 80s musk perfume but with really top notch ingredients and some unique distinctions. it’s definitely green and bracing and musky- the lavender i can get but i wouldn’t have immediately guessed it as it’s just a bracing overall herbaciousness sitting on top of green woody qualities. it’s really three dimensional and punches you in the face with projection at the opening, but settles down to a more enjoyable but still loud level. i almost wonder if there’s cumin in there? very complex but also good delineation of certain accords. traditional masculine musk perfume to the max.. this would be kind of like if prin and rogue made a baby of the highest ingredients. it has certain qualities of both id say somehow it’s not completely a western perfume but it really has that quality of ā€œthis will put hair on your chestā€ masculine western musk along with the cuminy mild funk (it’s really not very funky for being super animalic, well behaved as someone else said).. it’s a really different direction for elixir i would say and really successful. this could be someone’s signature scent if they had a huge wallet and the highest testosterone level of all time. very nice, very intense.
+1 to this. An absolute monster of a musk perfume and has shades of Mongolian Mriga , Mousse Illuminee + your traditional musk dominant attar. Haven't worn it enough to delve further, but it maybe my favourite musk dominant perfume as of right now.


SOTD: Ghaliyah 2023 by Elixir Attar.

The rose was really prominent on my skin when I first wore this (which I wasn't a fan of) but it has really smoothed out in the last few weeks as the oxygen in the vial played its role. The shimmering quality of the ambergris really starts to shine through amongst the notes of a sweet Arabian bakhoor scent. Reminds me a little of Sheikh Al Faransi Blend but with the musk dialled up a few notches whilst retaining a similar level of sweetness.
 
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Geranium Absolute from Pierre Chauvet. 22 years old, for better it for worse. Pierre Chauvet is no more, sadly, they were pioneers in extraction but the biz was absorbed in some conglomerate maybe 10-15 years ago. Dark green oil, classic fresh geranium scent but soft and rounded and less shrieking in its presence. I’m not a geranium fan, but this is a nice fragrance as far as straight up geranium goes, and would be useful in a composition. I could see myself wearing this as a natural fragrance whereas the essential oil is just way too cloying because of the sulfur rich compounds that give geranium its character and unusual punch.

Layered this with a little alteya rose otto and it makes a nice fat fuzzy rose scent that is quite nice.
 
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Hindi tabac
Agarwood assam
Man this oil reminds of india ,tobacco sellers have this smell near him and his shop always and mostly every seller,
Never knew it can be a beast in form of oil which zakir created
Incredible oil never to be found similar to any other tabacs,
A real tobacco of india
if anyone owns a bottle he is lucky
I wish they create similar stuff as they did in past release
 
I’ve been blissing out on the new batch of Payan Bertrand jasmine oil I got this week. like any absolute it’s a raw material, a diamond in the rough, but this one is really a charming oil. My experience with the jasmine absolute on the retail market is that they generally smell ok, but have off notes: slightly fermented or sour/cloying top notes, dull top notes, heavy mothball, violet leaf green notes, cat-scat indole overdose, heavy waxy note, or have an overly simple linear profile. This oil to my nose lacks any of those flaws and is extremely complex and multilayered. The fragrance is not only very pleasant, but it is also interesting. There’s a lot going on.

Normally consumers don’t have access to these kind of materials. I don’t know if any of you have ever tried ordering from the ā€œmastersā€ in Grasse, south of France, etc.. but without a business license and a lot of money it’s hard to even get the attention of their reps. I once connected with a nice person who was the US point person for one of the smaller Grasse oil manufactures / importers who helped me out. I was never able to meet their minimum orders, and their fee for decanting an oil into a bottle was close to $100. That bottle could be a gallon or a gram if you wanted but whatever size it was, you generally had to pay 100 bucks plus the cost of the oil. With bigger orders, they did not charge that fee I think.

What the rep did was let me know when some business was ordering a large batch of an oil I wanted, and then she would include my order with that larger one and send it to me when it arrived.

She had no financial incentive to do this because what I was purchasing was so tiny compared to their usual clients. Just a nice person trying to help me out.

These guys have serious market access and very trained noses and get first dibs on all the really good crops. It’s really nice that there’s a business that specializes in getting their products to consumers.
 
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Fabulous Blend from India(Fbi) by Maison Anthony Marmin. Oud, ambergris, spicy amber and chocolate notes… Dont know what to say about it. If this was an Amouage, or Henry Jacques I think they would charge no less than $300 per quarter tola.
It's legit good. Should have got a 6ml of it
 
Today it is jasmine enfleurage from Grasse. In the late 90s it was possible to get small bottles of this finest of jasmines. All I have left is a small amount that was diluted in alcohol. Delicious Jasmine, makes the best absolutes seem crude. Very clean, fresh floral, the delightful fruity Jasmine heart and balanced perfume in its own right.
 
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