Ghalliya 2023 by @Elixir Attar

This year's Ghalliya is for the lovers of the Roses.

Very prominent, sharp as well as jammy Roses on very creamy(imagine whipped cream) base.
To me it feels like Loud Roses, Safforn and a bed of very well matured(like a balm) Deer Musk.
This is going to be one of my top acquisitions this year as it seems and as I wear it more.

To some unaccustomed noses, it may feel like reminiscent of "Pan Masala".

I am feeling greedy and want to stock this up.
 
Harmony by Maison Anthony Marmin, now discontinued. Nobody claims that Mam attars are %100 natural or highest quality. However, this one absolutely smells luxurius and unique. Mixture of Indian oud, jasmin and vanilla. Carry it in your pocket and generously share with your loved ones.
Never heard of harmony when was it released?
 
Dark Matter by Pierre Black from Aroma Sublime. I really enjoy wearing this Papua oud soliflore. It's close to wearing pure oil, the other ingredients work as accents and the structure of the oud is the real composition. It's both medicinal and romantic, yet airy. Sticks really well to clothes, and doesn't need skin. Wears well outdoors, but doesn't fill a room when sitting still.

I would like to see this category of sprays explored further, based around a single oud distillation. I have been enjoying the Seri Karas spray from Hikayat Perfumes which is in a similar vein. Vanilla and spices are more prominent in that one, but it's similar in that it revolves around a single batch of oud heavy in the mid notes, with added accents. Taha is involved in that project but I found it more purist and minimalistic than oud sprays I have tried from him.
 
Dark Matter by Pierre Black from Aroma Sublime. I really enjoy wearing this Papua oud soliflore. It's close to wearing pure oil, the other ingredients work as accents and the structure of the oud is the real composition. It's both medicinal and romantic, yet airy. Sticks really well to clothes, and doesn't need skin. Wears well outdoors, but doesn't fill a room when sitting still.

I would like to see this category of sprays explored further, based around a single oud distillation. I have been enjoying the Seri Karas spray from Hikayat Perfumes which is in a similar vein. Vanilla and spices are more prominent in that one, but it's similar in that it revolves around a single batch of oud heavy in the mid notes, with added accents. Taha is involved in that project but I found it more purist and minimalistic than oud sprays I have tried from him.
Santal tonka(hikayat) is similar tone, beautiful and for santal lovers.
 
This is neither an attar nor a mukhallat… wasn’t sure where to put this, so here’s my fragrance of the day, or at least of the hour

Dried sweet woodruff - very nice coumarin / tonka bean note. I’d like to get a patch of this going and try extracting. This has been dried for about a year and is starting to get a little less fragrant. This would be a great plant to press in between the pages of some favorite book - would go well with old book scent.

[Ouddict.com] Attar/Mukhallat of the Day
 
This is neither an attar nor a mukhallat… wasn’t sure where to put this, so here’s my fragrance of the day, or at least of the hour

Dried sweet woodruff - very nice coumarin / tonka bean note. I’d like to get a patch of this going and try extracting. This has been dried for about a year and is starting to get a little less fragrant. This would be a great plant to press in between the pages of some favorite book - would go well with old book scent.

View attachment 27012
I extract Tonka but now you got my head turning !!! If I can grow it and extract it that’s my preferred artisan expression
 
It only develops Coumarin when it is dried by the way. Like shady moist fertile areas. Once it gets started, it takes over as a ground cover, and basically excludes everything else so it would be a good crop in that respect.

I believe it’s also a key ingredient in May wine and similar spring tonics.
 
I wore a slightly tired Ajmal Amber Amiri attar today. This was atomic when I first got it. Now that it’s mellowed over time, it’s easier to wear or out in western climates. Still a fantastic, deep, spiced amber. Masculine and sophisticated without being overbearing in projection.
 
Jasmine de Grasse absolute from an old company called “aroma Vera” that had some unusually fine oils and extracts back when there was little competition at the retail level at least. They must have had access to the offerings of Robertet because they sold jasmin de Grasse somehow (unless they lied). They had two jasmine oils - absolute from hexane and absolute from enfleurage (which they listed as non-vegan due to use of purified animal fat for the pomade).

The absolute from enfleurage is the nicest floral I have ever smelled. I won’t bother to try to describe what it smelled like but all I can say is think of the very best absolutes at the peak moment in their unfolding, on one of those days where the air is humid and you can really smell that wild fresh jasmine zing… the enfleurage was like one long never ending extension of that moment. Melodramatic I admit.

The absolute from hexane is what I am wearing now and it is from 1993 or so - it ain’t fresh by a long shot. That said I would have no problem recognizing this one in a jasmine lineup and unless my memory serves me wrong, it smells much like it did originally and has not changed too much with time. Stored as a full bottle, in the dark, so maybe that helped . Does not have any overwhelming indole, very nice in that respect. It is somehow briefly a little dry and tart at first - this is the “terroir” note to my nose. This transitions into a deep juicy jasmine heart distinct from anything I’ve sniffed from India, Egypt, or morocco. Not the fresh green floral melon of Egypt or the smooth narcotic fruity linalool / indole of India - it is more of deep tart dark fruity thing to my nose.
 
Exams are over and now some oud/Mukhallats time.
2 days ago I sprayed Aquilaria Blossom for Taraweeh prayer: perfect scent for beginners or an introduction to the more heavy artisinal perfumes and for the price of under 200€/30ml on the black market pretty fair.

The next day: Ajmal mukhallat dahn al oud moattaq spray: Another perfect beginner/introductory scent. Rose oud in a cheap and authentic version 90€/60ml.
 
Jasmine grandiflorum co2 select from India. Supposedly not from concrete but direct from flowers.

Out of the bottle, it smells quite a bit like a grandiflorum flower on a vine, albeit without that charming freshness. It is a pleasant but simple jasmine - relatively linear, low in indole, not especially multifaceted. It settles into a powdery jasmine sweetness that is appealing but not entrancing like a top shelf absolute.

This came from white lotus aromatics
 

Attachments

  • [Ouddict.com] Attar/Mukhallat of the Day
    5B753C64-C14C-4A65-9C80-C6AD22FEE68F.webp
    49.4 KB · Views: 100
Last edited:
Another jasmine:

Jasmine grandiflorum “floral secretion oil” from AM Aromatics in India. I believe these are basically the same process as the “emanation” oils where jasmine concrete is processed via distillation instead of the traditional alcohol method. Oil is sweet and pleasant, pretty linear, and not as multilayered as good absolutes. Sniffed from the bottle a distinct indole note is evident. I noticed it less when I put the oil on my skin, however. This might be a good jasmine for someone who was put off by some of the heavier notes in absolutes. it is more accessible, but less intriguing.

This company makes distilled oils of grandiflorum, sambac, juhi and other materials not usually found in distilled form. They have a pretty high minimum however when it comes to sampling.
 
Back
Top