I am in jasmine sambac bliss here… I have smelled a fair number of absolutes, attars, and distillates of jasmine sambac and thought I had it figured out. These two oils (ruh mogra from Annajwa and Ruh Bela kannauj from Ward Lab) remind me that I have a lot to learn… which is always good news.
These are both so freaking pleasant… all of the notes smell consistent with what I have smelled in sambac, just in a much more appealing balance. Anyway, my enjoyment of these oils poses a moral dilemma for me: I would really hate to hype them and then as a result, never be able to get another bottle. Obviously, these guys deserve recognition… IO super hoi an and that mesoud tarkan qadeem are others that have triggered the “all mine” instinct.
The kannauj oil has a kind of rustic deg-distilled vibe to it that also comes through in ruh gulab. I like this note and on skin it unfolds into a beautiful array of tangy and appealing floral and candylike jasmine tea notes. It’s just seems like a perfect example of the purified / concentrated floral note that you get in the authentic Sambac / Sandalwood attars. As I have said, before, this one is a prized specimen for me.
The mogra has none of what i believe is the deg or field still vibe. Very clean and to me the beauty in this one is especially in the delicate yet heady floral notes that are first perceived at a fair distance on application. It’s a very distinct effect - after applying a dab, the air around me seems filled with these particular delicate shifting floral scents. This effect is best experienced with your wrist far from your nose, but the oil is very well balanced, and also smells great with a closer sniff.
These oil are both incredibly balanced and appealing throughout their evaporation, and avoid the common shrill or distracting waxy note that can be found even in premium sambac concrete and absolute.
these are both trophy oils for me (if I’m using the term right) that I will use extremely carefully.
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