SULAYM, “HM Khus”. I wear this often, remarkable oil.
I recognize that vetiver is amazingly complex subtleties may be hard to pin down, but I’m wondering how this compares to a typical ruh khus? Or maybe that’s not quite the right question… Does anything stand out to you in terms of impressions or associations?

I’ve had a kind of love-hate relationship with this material, but have recently begun to see that I had some real lemons that I thought were typical examples.
 
I recognize that vetiver is amazingly complex subtleties may be hard to pin down, but I’m wondering how this compares to a typical ruh khus? Or maybe that’s not quite the right question… Does anything stand out to you in terms of impressions or associations?

I’ve had a kind of love-hate relationship with this material, but have recently begun to see that I had some real lemons that I thought were typical examples.
I’m curious how it compares, also. Unfortunately, it’s sold out as of now.
I went through a number of various samples of Ruh Khus before I found some high quality material. Poorly distilled or low quality Khus has an overly muddy dank leathery nuance which I don’t find very appealing.
 
In my case, I had several very metallic specimens (three in a row), and I think now it may have been everyone was reselling the same oil, in this case, one from White Lotus aromatics.
 
In my case, I had several very metallic specimens (three in a row), and I think now it may have been everyone was reselling the same oil, in this case, one from White Lotus aromatics.
I dislike that overly metallic-copper note that presents itself in various oils. I’ve experienced it a few times with various Rose ottos, not good.
 
I have been sniffing Jasmine oils the last two days… On skin and on blotter paper to try to get a clear picture and hopefully provide some useful notes to those who I got them from. Also looking forward to sharing what I find here, in case it helps any of you find what you were looking for.

On this fan of blotter strips are three
Ruh motias, a grandiflorum absolute, a grandiflorum ruh, and a ruh juhi (auriculatum). I’m still getting to know these, but should have a clearer picture as I study these over the next couple of days. The distilled oils of jasmine are a kind of puzzle for me at this point… huge range of aromas without a whole lot of information on what might explain the differences.

I recommend examining any oils that you can afford to on blotter paper and at 5-10% concentration in alcohol. it really expands and separates the top middle and base notes and provides a different perspective than when it evaporates on skin. Testing on skin is of course the critical thing when evaluating a scent, but studying it on paper is fascinating and can help you identify individual notes that are hard to pick out when it is on skin. It is wild how different some oils smell on paper than on skin.

I keep this little cluster of blotters with me and set them on the table wherever I am and I’m constantly getting a little whiffs of each of the oils that are on there. The oils last considerably longer on paper as well. All of these Jasmine oils will last well over 24 hours on paper. Sandalwood last at least a month, although it’s quite light at the end.


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Comparing two SQ Oud Rose blends today, and what a beautiful day it has been. My nose has been glued back and forth to each wrist.

One is a Burmese Oud with Rose, potentially dated to 1990s. This is an incredible bold blend where the oud really shines and each ingredient fluctuates from the background to foreground. Beautiful red taif rose with a strong Burmese oud coming through with leather and tobacco notes. It has that perfect hint of masculine roughness balanced with the floral rose goodness. It has that classic contrast of beauty and beast that oud rose lovers will appreciate, done with such high quality ingredients.

The other blend is 1970s Maroke with rose, and wow this is quite the comparison. While the other blend fluctuates between the two materials, this one is unified into the most beautiful regal purple oud rose chord. Perhaps it is due to the extra age, or difference in oud, but It is the epitome of smooth. As it dries down you reach a sweet resinous purple oud base that is absolutely heavenly. So smooth and regal and complex.
 
Comparing two SQ Oud Rose blends today, and what a beautiful day it has been. My nose has been glued back and forth to each wrist.

One is a Burmese Oud with Rose, potentially dated to 1990s. This is an incredible bold blend where the oud really shines and each ingredient fluctuates from the background to foreground. Beautiful red taif rose with a strong Burmese oud coming through with leather and tobacco notes. It has that perfect hint of masculine roughness balanced with the floral rose goodness. It has that classic contrast of beauty and beast that oud rose lovers will appreciate, done with such high quality ingredients.

The other blend is 1970s Maroke with rose, and wow this is quite the comparison. While the other blend fluctuates between the two materials, this one is unified into the most beautiful regal purple oud rose chord. Perhaps it is due to the extra age, or difference in oud, but It is the epitome of smooth. As it dries down you reach a sweet resinous purple oud base that is absolutely heavenly. So smooth and regal and complex.
Which vendor is the Maroke one from?
 
Comparing two SQ Oud Rose blends today, and what a beautiful day it has been. My nose has been glued back and forth to each wrist.

One is a Burmese Oud with Rose, potentially dated to 1990s. This is an incredible bold blend where the oud really shines and each ingredient fluctuates from the background to foreground. Beautiful red taif rose with a strong Burmese oud coming through with leather and tobacco notes. It has that perfect hint of masculine roughness balanced with the floral rose goodness. It has that classic contrast of beauty and beast that oud rose lovers will appreciate, done with such high quality ingredients.

The other blend is 1970s Maroke with rose, and wow this is quite the comparison. While the other blend fluctuates between the two materials, this one is unified into the most beautiful regal purple oud rose chord. Perhaps it is due to the extra age, or difference in oud, but It is the epitome of smooth. As it dries down you reach a sweet resinous purple oud base that is absolutely heavenly. So smooth and regal and complex.
wow its a pleasure to read feelings i will be blending SQ malay and bermese into ALshareed taifi rose once i get rose taif with some nanghar rose and musk ambergris lets see where its lead me .
 
I wore a lot of An Najwa ouds and attars last week in work (2x oils for the 5x working days) but can't remember exactly what I wore and when 😂 all very good quality though, enjoyed Omar & Mighty Mizo and a blend with a lot of vetiver -think it was Maghreb. Also the jasmine & oud blend was great, both oils combining in a way that made each other undecipherable. Very interesting how that happened

I moved 3000 miles from my buddies and my ex last March. Finally have a few dates lined up… last time was 1993!
Sweet! All the best, I've been very indifferent towards meeting people lately but am seeing a girl from my kung fu class on Sunday - I didn't really ask her "on a date" as such but figured that's implied. Using tinder and such apps has been winding me up, 95% of women here are carbon copies of each other, overly painted makeup faces, half naked in a mirror
 
I wore a lot of An Najwa ouds and attars last week in work (2x oils for the 5x working days) but can't remember exactly what I wore and when 😂 all very good quality though, enjoyed Omar & Mighty Mizo and a blend with a lot of vetiver -think it was Maghreb. Also the jasmine & oud blend was great, both oils combining in a way that made each other undecipherable. Very interesting how that happened


Sweet! All the best, I've been very indifferent towards meeting people lately but am seeing a girl from my kung fu class on Sunday - I didn't really ask her "on a date" as such but figured that's implied. Using tinder and such apps has been winding me up, 95% of women here are carbon copies of each other, overly painted makeup faces, half naked in a mirror
Well, I hope things go well for you. I put some pretty clear comments in my profile that I’m not looking for some cookie cutter, glamour queen (not that one would necessarily have an interest in me in the first place). Definitely not looking to hook up with anybody… trying to find someone with a creative and inquisitive spirit, down to earth, outdoorsy etc.. 🙂

I have just finished setting up to do a co-distillation in my small copper alembic - fresh helichrysum and rosemary branches, bergamot, orange, lemon, cedrat, and lavender oils will all go together into the still with some ethanol. Then will be distilled all together and subsequently mixed with clary sage, neroli, citrus leaf distillate and absolute, a bit of ck resin I extracted. This is a follow up on a previous batch, so I believe this one will be exceptional. Has a neroli😛etitgrain ratio that is considerably higher than the last recipe so will be a bit more costly to make.

Using the rig in the photograph below, which obviously still needs a couple of things to be ready to go. Where did I put that water pump? The plant in the window is a patchouly plant cutting from my previous plants. Spring is around the corner!

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I had to remove a little bit so as not to overfill the still. This is the color of the citrus / alcohol mix after macerating with the herbs. I will have to pour this in at some point during the distillation. I’m using a hot water bath to heat the alcohol gently and distill at low temp. This is something that has to be done with extreme caution. I have a fire extinguisher on hand…. Never had an issue, but you never know.
This will come out completely clear after distillation. There’s also a certain amount of water mixed in, which is part of the traditional method, and all of that comes from the spring that feeds my house and my neighbors… it is a thermal spring but it gets to the house ice cold at this time of year so I’m just running cold spring water through the condenser as well. The fault up the hill produces 500 gallons a minute and it all just goes into the creek if we don’t use it.
 

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I had to remove a little bit so as not to overfill the still. This is the color of the citrus / alcohol mix after macerating with the herbs. I will have to pour this in at some point during the distillation. I’m using a hot water bath to heat the alcohol gently and distill at low temp. This is something that has to be done with extreme caution. I have a fire extinguisher on hand…. Never had an issue, but you never know.
This will come out completely clear after distillation. There’s also a certain amount of water mixed in, which is part of the traditional method, and all of that comes from the spring that feeds my house and my neighbors… it is a thermal spring but it gets to the house ice cold at this time of year so I’m just running cold spring water through the condenser as well. The fault up the hill produces 500 gallons a minute and it all just goes into the creek if we don’t use it.
I am never nervous when distilling, only when using ethanol in the still, you want to make sure good ventilation, ideally open air, and I use electrical heater rather than gas.
 
Exactly - i used a bain marie on an electric heater
 
Today it is a dab of jasmine malaccensis from AnNajwa. This is a pretty wild Jasmine sambac and oud mix… i’m afraid to guess ingredients but it seems like a fermented oud, a bright/punchy grapey sambac, some musk and some civet (probably just some of the lactic fermentation notes, combining with the animalic aspect of the oud and Jasmine, but it hits like civet to me). Only have one sample of civet as reference: a “resinoid absolue” I got from Pierre Chauvet in 1996.

The jasmine is really pretty brassy in the opening in a good way. The fermentation notes come through in a little waves, and at times can be prominent. The ferment plus the grape notes makes an interesting accord - like those two notes kind of reinforce each other, and produce some pleasant experience that is unique and very pleasant. The oud I think was a “barney” one because I definitely get the occasional whiff of a little bit of classic Hindi funk.
 
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Eo Musk Mitti Attar: I love the smell of soil after rain and this was my first purchase of a Mitti based attar in search of those notes. Per EO he used Tibetan musk and boiled it in petrichor pots for months. The carrier is Sandalwood. I do get petrichor notes but for me it smells like roasted groundnuts in clay pots and I don't get the kind of Mitti notes I want. There is a very light creamy sandalwood note in the background. Tibetan Musk adds longevity and earthy sweetness which is very subtle. I find it average and not something I would buy again. The closest wet soil notes I found have been in ouds. I wonder if any mitti attar comes even close for me to try other vendors.
 
Eo Musk Mitti Attar: I love the smell of soil after rain and this was my first purchase of a Mitti based attar in search of those notes. Per EO he used Tibetan musk and boiled it in petrichor pots for months. The carrier is Sandalwood. I do get petrichor notes but for me it smells like roasted groundnuts in clay pots and I don't get the kind of Mitti notes I want. There is a very light creamy sandalwood note in the background. Tibetan Musk adds longevity and earthy sweetness which is very subtle. I find it average and not something I would buy again. The closest wet soil notes I found have been in ouds. I wonder if any mitti attar comes even close for me to try other vendors.
I am certainly not an expert on mitti scents, but I tried Areej Le Dore's mitti spray perfume and it smelled very much like petrichor or wet clay, to my nose. However, this was the first mitti scent I tried, so I certainly don't have knowledge of traditional mitti attars to compare it to. But for me, it smelled exactly like what it described.

Longevity is very low on this perfume, but it's also very affordable. May be worth a look.
 
An Najwa had a very nice smelling mitti attar - may be out of stock but it smells like the stuff I used to get 20 years ago from White Lotus.
 
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