Attar/Mukhallat of the Day

[Joe]

Scents Talks - Khaltat Madinah II

The top of lotus, daffodils and Lilly of the valley float beautifully around forming an aura of relaxation and contemplation. The heart of Hindi oud, musk, and sandalwood, saffron, and tuberose provide support to the base of Jasmine sambac and Damsac roses. The blend really transports me to the heart of Madinah. Beautiful blend.

Is the lily of the valley occurring naturally? Meaning, does the perfumer market this one you describe as 100% natural?

Lily of the valley (Convallaria majalis) is a flower in perfumery that doesn’t yield essence via steam or solvent extraction, so it’s usually synthetic. That’s what I thought anyway. I personally don’t have problems with synthetics, they last long, and you can make things like lily of the valley. Just curious.

• It doesn’t give a good essential oil or absolute by normal methods (steam distillation, solvent extraction).
• The key odor molecules are fragile and present in tiny amounts and tend to break down during extraction.
• So there is no real, commercially available, truly representative “lily of the valley essential oil/absolute” the way we have for rose, jasmine, neroli, etc.

 

[MaxFromHolland]

Would that valerian be suitable, in trace amounts, to make a clean floral a bit more dirty and interesting? I know the scent of dried valerian, but by your description, the dried stuff is nowhere near that scent of concentrated tincture..

 

[AlHind Oud]

I was decanting some samples to send to a colleague here, one of which was the valerian resinoid I made from the plants in my yard. This stuff is 100% pure vegan raunch in a bottle. Unbelievably potent barnyard musky cheesy wacky stuff. Sort of like fermented notes from lactic lao fermented oud combined with civet and aged brie?

I filled about 15 sample vials each with a different material but the only thing I can smell in the lab is the valerian. I don't even know why I can still smell it. I threw out the pipette tip, Then I threw out the bag that I initially put the pipette tip in. I had extracted the oil with extreme care, not a microliter spilled or smeared on anything… The sample bottle is no longer in the room, the stock bottle is closed. This stuff stains the air lol

It would be wonderful if there were some use for this as an exalting agent like civet. Something I look forward to experimenting with at some point…

This is seriously very potent stuff. It can outweigh some of the other oud oils out there 😂. it initially reminded me of some ayurvedic herbs/medicines, great stuff to playaround.

 

[Mr.P]

Would that valerian be suitable, in trace amounts, to make a clean floral a bit more dirty and interesting? I know the scent of dried valerian, but by your description, the dried stuff is nowhere near that scent of concentrated tincture..

that's what I aim to find out. 🙂

 

[Joe]

that's what I aim to find out. 🙂

Good luck! Let me know how it goes; I’m curious….

 

[mobyus]

Lupus & Vega - Shamama Agarwood

My night time go-to sleep aid. Love how the scent evokes memories of the pool guys coming to check the levels of chlorine of our massive family pool 35 years ago. It was a shared pool for all of the family and Shamama gives this scent that reminds me of just getting ready to dive in.

I hope Shamama Agarwood is in stock in perpetuity @Joe

 

[Mr.P]

This is seriously very potent stuff. It can outweigh some of the other oud oils out there 😂. it initially reminded me of some ayurvedic herbs/medicines, great stuff to playaround.

it's a bit much… but I'm glad to see the plants are capable of giving the animals a run for their money when it comes to kicking up a stink

 

[Mr.P]

kadamba again. The stuff is absurdly powerful I'm just smelling the residue in the cap without opening it or the little plug in the octagonal bottle. At this level of intensity it is a beautiful delicate violet, I'm actually shocked and wondering if my sense of smell is distorted from something I smelled earlier. It's just like the lively slightly sweet slightly dry delicate quintessential violet note. Didn't expect that even though I've noticed mimosa and Violet like elements. Some things are just way too potent and need to be diluted to really reveal their beauty... or maybe that's just what's left after everything else evaporates because the minute you get near the actual oil it's waxy and like suntan lotion and tropical breezes and something totally different

 

[AlHind Oud]

kadamba again. The stuff is absurdly powerful I'm just smelling the residue in the cap without opening it or the little plug in the octagonal bottle. At this level of intensity it is a beautiful delicate violet, I'm actually shocked and wondering if my sense of smell is distorted from something I smelled earlier. It's just like the lively slightly sweet slightly dry delicate quintessential violet note. Didn't expect that even though I've noticed mimosa and Violet like elements. Some things are just way too potent and need to be diluted to really reveal their beauty... or maybe that's just what's left after everything else evaporates because the minute you get near the actual oil it's waxy and like suntan lotion and tropical breezes and something totally different

Kadamb is prominently used in Indian attar called ‘Majmua’.

 

[Joe]

Lupus & Vega - Shamama Agarwood

My night time go-to sleep aid. Love how the scent evokes memories of the pool guys coming to check the levels of chlorine of our massive family pool 35 years ago. It was a shared pool for all of the family and Shamama gives this scent that reminds me of just getting ready to dive in.

I hope Shamama Agarwood is in stock in perpetuity @Joe

Love the memories it can invoke in you.

 

[Olfactory Nomad]

AlHind Oud - Bilquis 3

This is amazing. Buttery, fresh, slightly floral creamy and delicate. To me the opening is definitely heavier on the Kinam and the sandalwood begins to shine as it settles. Very nice. After having smelt it I now realise it's an attar combination I was missing. This alongside Alamgir 1 is the equivalent of a white rose in one hand and a dagger in the other.

So, this is a fantastic combination to layer and I think I'll be doing it regularly. The deep bitterness of Alamgir 1 is so wonderfully tempered by Bilquis 3. It makes me think of the dagger as you say but freshly forged and red hot, plunged into the cooling water of Bilquis. The plume of steam that arises from fire and water and envelops your senses is this combination. A real winner.

 

[mza93]

So, this is a fantastic combination to layer and I think I'll be doing it regularly. The deep bitterness of Alamgir 1 is so wonderfully tempered by Bilquis 3. It makes me think of the dagger as you say but freshly forged and red hot, plunged into the cooling water of Bilquis. The plume of steam that arises from fire and water and envelops your senses is this combination. A real winner.

I'm glad we're on the same page ! Couldn't have explained it better myself. It's definitely a winning combination. To be honest I wasn't even trying to merge the 2 as I was enjoying them individually but then came the moment of 'hold on a second, what if....' and viola 😄

 

[Joe]

So, this is a fantastic combination to layer and I think I'll be doing it regularly. The deep bitterness of Alamgir 1 is so wonderfully tempered by Bilquis 3. It makes me think of the dagger as you say but freshly forged and red hot, plunged into the cooling water of Bilquis. The plume of steam that arises from fire and water and envelops your senses is this combination. A real winner.

I got to smell this in person. Had it not been for the rose in Bilquis Al Ward, this would’ve been my next choice!

 

[mobyus]

Is the lily of the valley occurring naturally? Meaning, does the perfumer market this one you describe as 100% natural?

Lily of the valley (Convallaria majalis) is a flower in perfumery that doesn’t yield essence via steam or solvent extraction, so it’s usually synthetic. That’s what I thought anyway. I personally don’t have problems with synthetics, they last long, and you can make things like lily of the valley. Just curious.

• It doesn’t give a good essential oil or absolute by normal methods (steam distillation, solvent extraction).
• The key odor molecules are fragile and present in tiny amounts and tend to break down during extraction.
• So there is no real, commercially available, truly representative “lily of the valley essential oil/absolute” the way we have for rose, jasmine, neroli, etc.

To the best of the perfumer’s knowledge it is not synthetic. But method of extraction is probably enfluerage.

 

[mobyus]

Amouage - Tribute Attar

First impressions are that it’s so light and airy. Fresh scent of roses, saffron, and grapes. It gets stronger as it evolves with a strong Frankincense tone representing the pride of the Omani people. It has a hint of smoke and vetiver. This is a really great perfume oil.

 

[PerfumeAl]

Mellifluence - Aluvia This is a beautiful slightly sweet lavender-based Attar. Slightly green, very grounding.

 

[Joe]

Lupus & Vega - Shamama Agarwood

My night time go-to sleep aid. Love how the scent evokes memories of the pool guys coming to check the levels of chlorine of our massive family pool 35 years ago. It was a shared pool for all of the family and Shamama gives this scent that reminds me of just getting ready to dive in.

I hope Shamama Agarwood is in stock in perpetuity @Joe

Don’t worry my friend. I keep stellar records on what percentage of materials I plan for the formula, and what percentage I actually used; therefore, I’m able to reproduce most of the blends unless it is heavily leaning on a character is like an vintage oud that’s used up, something like that.

 

[mobyus]

Sulaym - Jade Blaze & Elysium

I thought I would combine these 2 attars and see what I would get. The result is a green spark opening from the Jade Blaze that is quickly overwhelmed by the ambergris of Elysium. Somehow though the mix remains bright, sweet, and creamy. I’m getting both blue and green notes that remain fresh and cherished. These are the OGs that I will soon part with to make way for the Musc editions.

 

[Joe]

To the best of the perfumer’s knowledge it is not synthetic. But method of extraction is probably enfluerage.

Well that’s certainly a possibility, though very laborious and expensive as air needs to be charged quite a lot if it doesn’t have much in way of natural oils.

 

[Joe]

Sulaym - Jade Blaze & Elysium

I thought I would combine these 2 attars and see what I would get. The result is a green spark opening from the Jade Blaze that is quickly overwhelmed by the ambergris of Elysium. Somehow though the mix remains bright, sweet, and creamy. I’m getting both blue and green notes that remain fresh and cherished. These are the OGs that I will soon part with to make way for the Musc editions.(

I looked these up, and figured I should give them a try blended like this, it sounds fantastic. (I don’t distill so I can’t make a proper attar.) I too should give them a try. But I had to save some mullah for an ounce of @AlHind Oud ’s Mysore and @Al Hashimi ’s Hindi III, I couldn’t spend another dime. This time I bought 30 grams of Mysore. And 20 of Hindi III. That should keep me vest3ed for at least two fantastic blends with fantastic materials. It’s okay, some you just have to enjoy through the nose of another’s.