Miscellany of the day
- Thread starter Mr.P
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Mr.P
oud<3er
Enjoying the heck out of some Egyptian Jasmine grandiflorum absolute from Payan Bertrand. So complex... each wearing is unique. I think the most jaw dropping olfactory beauty I have experienced is in this species. this particular specimen keeps bringing forth these spectacular bouquets- truly a glimpse into some kind of garden of paradise when it hits just right. If I had to select one single aromatic extract to have with me for the rest of my life at the expense of all others a good grandiflorum oil would be among the finalists. There are other materials that are more superficially charming but I can't think of any other single material that delivers so many surprises and such narcotic captivating beauty when everything lines up just right. Fortunately I don't have to make such an agonizing decision.
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Joe
Resident Artisan
Love Payan Bertrand and Ribertre.
Mr.P
oud<3er
This is one of the crowns of my extraction experiments over the last year or so… Thick medicinal Lysimachia foenum-graecum (AKA rei ryoko) resinoid. A bit smoky, leafy, phenolic at first, gradually easing into an extremely long lasting fenugreek-adjacent heart and base. I like to layer this with other things, got a couple of combinations which I'm excited about. This is one of the fundamental materials used in constructing
traditional Japanese incense masalas.
![[Ouddict.com] Miscellany of the day](https://www.ouddict.com/attachments/img_9191-webp.54905/ "[Ouddict.com] Miscellany of the day")
traditional Japanese incense masalas.
Mr.P
oud<3er
Yes - 200 proof ethyl alcohol using a soxhlet extractor. I'm amazed at how many facets of traditional Japanese incense bouquets seem to be from this one material. I imagine it's 100% essential in incense blending.
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Mr.P
oud<3er
Again I'm enjoying the heck out of this reiryoko extract. So surprised at the range of notes the
material delivers. As it goes through its stages of evaporation I recognize its input in japanese incense… both its heart and base show up in the incense mixtures quite clearly. Medicinal, sweet, phenolic, "incensy", and (eventually) fenugreek. Amazing material I am excited to use in a few blends I've been working on.
material delivers. As it goes through its stages of evaporation I recognize its input in japanese incense… both its heart and base show up in the incense mixtures quite clearly. Medicinal, sweet, phenolic, "incensy", and (eventually) fenugreek. Amazing material I am excited to use in a few blends I've been working on.
Saudalhajri
True Ouddict
Fenugreek absolute 1%
Surprisingly very very strong even at 1%, when sniffed hard enough you get beautiful Smokey sweet realistic maple syrup notes, a little funky too but a good funk
Surprisingly very very strong even at 1%, when sniffed hard enough you get beautiful Smokey sweet realistic maple syrup notes, a little funky too but a good funk
Kai Leon Art Perfumer
Oud Knight
You may like to know that the key molecule responsible for that typical smell of Fenugreek (and Maple Syrup, and Curry) - called Sotolon - is one of the most potent odorants in existence, with extremely low threshold of detection by a human nose - in the air the threshold is one particle per Trillion! - meaning even at 0.000001% concentration - with Sotolon comprising approxinmately only a 0.0001% of it - Fenugreek absolute will still be clearly detectable! It is an astoundingly intense material.
Mr.P
oud<3er
I wonder if the same molecule is responsible for the similar aromas in Lysimachia? It has the maple like qualities but it doesn't have those intense rancid type notes when it's in concentrated form, unlike most fenugreek oils I've seen. for me fenugreek has to be extremely dilute to smell pleasant, so it's not surprising to hear how powerful it is. I was reading about the fact that a fenugreek processing plant in New Jersey once triggered some emergency response in New York City when the entirety of downtown was blanketed in the smell of maple syrup and at first people were not sure why.
Kai Leon Art Perfumer
Oud Knight
Most probably - at least according to the google-AI scan of the GC-SNIFF studies of the aroma; but since the overall composition of Lysimachia foenum-graecum's essence is quite different from that of the Foenugreek itself, the impact of Sotolon hits differently - just like in Helichrysum where it is present in miniscule traces.
And that infamous incident in New York - which had triggered chemical warfare alert and mass panic in Manhattan - is a perfect demonstration of Sotolon's power - all it took is some grinding of Foenugreek seeds (no essence was involved) and a fault in the air filtration system - the factory was located 16 kilometers away from Manhattan... Crazy.
Mr.P
oud<3er
i've been enjoying a sample of neroli that I picked up The Essential Oil Company (the one in Portland Oregon) when they were having a sale last year. It enabled me to wear a lot of neroli over the last year, this one is Egyptian and has a different presence than the Moroccan. Sometimes it comes off is very bitter green citrus, emphasizing elements it shares with petitgrain. At other times it's very delicate, I really perceive smooth sweet linalool, like coriander and jasmine grand with a kind of modified tart green effervescent citrus that reminds me of the part of the aspect of the aroma of peonies that doesn't smell like roses. I love it when the latter aspect is the dominant but it's unpredictable. I don't know if it's changes in humidity or the remains of some other material on my skin that's giving it these different facets on different days...
this for me is one of the things that makes conceptual perfumery so challenging. If each material always came across in a particular singular way it might be easier to conceive of their combinations but with each substance interacting with the other others and coming across differently depending on the context… leaves me having to do painstaking experimentation to make progress.
this for me is one of the things that makes conceptual perfumery so challenging. If each material always came across in a particular singular way it might be easier to conceive of their combinations but with each substance interacting with the other others and coming across differently depending on the context… leaves me having to do painstaking experimentation to make progress.
Alamande
True Ouddict
Normally I try not to post random IG reels but this is pretty cool and crazy - incense as an extreme sport.
Shiningrobes
True Ouddict
Wow
Shiningrobes
True Ouddict
This Rose maceration!
Ambergris, musk and a later addition of civet, the cat shaped ribbon on top. Light on all three. Minimal color change; from pale clear green to a slight warm clear yellow. The musk and ambergris just amplify the brighter parts of the rose, making it much louder than it was originally. But it’s the civet that weaves through it all and gives a creamy, powdery underlayment and just the barest touch of skank and complexity. I need more rose oils! This is glorious.
Ambergris, musk and a later addition of civet, the cat shaped ribbon on top. Light on all three. Minimal color change; from pale clear green to a slight warm clear yellow. The musk and ambergris just amplify the brighter parts of the rose, making it much louder than it was originally. But it’s the civet that weaves through it all and gives a creamy, powdery underlayment and just the barest touch of skank and complexity. I need more rose oils! This is glorious.
Joe
Resident Artisan
I love rose as an otto and an abs. I suggest @AlHind Oud for his ottos; they are supreme, and I've used all three he had to offer a bit ago before his sale. He had pink roses, red roses, and a Persian rose otto that are out of this world!
I don't know if he has any left, though, but it's worth checking out.
And for rose absolutes, I recommend, if you're still experimenting and making a small batch, the manufacturer called Robertet's e-website. They sell 5-gram samples at a high price, but the quality is absolutely (haha) wonderful! PS: I have nothing to do with them. I am only sharing what I have learned by testing the goods for "more roses". ;=)
Shiningrobes
True Ouddict
Joe
Resident Artisan
I can’t recommend them enough. You will not regret. They are stunning. I’m not just saying that because we’re pals—, he really has the best roses I’ve set my nose upon in the last year. Actually I think I first tried them at ScentExpo. I promised myself that I would reinvest, after a good amount of sales, into some grams of each. A little goes a long way.
