No, sorry for not making it more clear. I have the HM Royal Malay. The Purple Malay is from the 70s and the one I have is from the 90s.
Ah, cool. I'm interested in the 70s Kelantan. Reading your impression of leather and smoke scared me off. I heard that one is clean, and smooth compared to the 90s.
 
Ah, cool. I'm interested in the 70s Kelantan. Reading your impression of leather and smoke scared me off. I heard that one is clean, and smooth compared to the 90s.
Yeah, it may be, but when I asked if it was basically just an older Royal Malay, Faizal said yes... but I am 100% sure it has differences. Royal Malay is also distilled using Kelantan wood.
 
IO Nha Trang Ultima
EO Nha Trang LD


NHLTD starts better, with a vaporous, bitter-medicinal bite whereas NHU starts more mellow, sweet. After that though it's difficult to choose between them. NHU goes maybe a bit more earthy while NHLTD is more leathery, both get to that bitter-sweet Nha Trang DNA. Whenever I ask myself if I need to source more NHLTD down the road, it's difficult to justify when you have oils like NHU around for a 1/4 of that price. There are some old EO/Oriscent oils that I don't think I could find an alternative for, so I'll just happily pay the admission price. However, I feel with NHLTD, it's not worth it, for me.
 
Pre release Raja Hijau from HabzOud, got a sample of it and the wood used to make it was wild (ofc) Aquilaria. rostrata, very, very rare.

It opens with a nice greenery, and a sweet, fizzy oceanic type note, kinda similar to Zamarad 2. Then you get notes (that I picked up anyway) of really nice woodiness, very strong oudy resin note, fruits and florals, woody agarwood incense, a redish berry note, with some purple, green etc. Notes of nuts and milkiness, and sometimes creamy and butter, too. It is very sweet, sometimes bringing a sour note out, but not that often, but the sweetness is so addictive, it isn't sickly or anything, it is a sweet like candy type scent. And some earthiness and powderiness. Florals are a big note in this oil, and I was catching some leather every now in then, in a very nice way, not off putting in the slightest. Cant wait till its released.

EDIT: Some fizzy cola notes too.
 
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Pre release Raja Hijau from HabzOud, got a sample of it and the wood used to make it was wild (ofc) Aquilaria. rostrata, very, very rare.

It opens with a nice greenery, and a sweet, fizzy oceanic type note, kinda similar to Zamarad 2. Then you get notes (that I picked up anyway) of really nice woodiness, very strong oudy resin note, fruits and florals, woody agarwood incense, a redish berry note, with some purple, green etc. Notes of nuts and milkiness, and sometimes creamy and butter, too. It is very sweet, sometimes bringing a sour note out, but not that often, but the sweetness is so addictive, it isn't sickly or anything, it is a sweet like candy type scent. And some earthiness and powderiness. Florals are a big note in this oil, and I was catching some leather every now in then, in a very nice way, not off putting in the slightest. Cant wait till its released.

EDIT: Some fizzy cola notes too.

What region is this oud? Sounds interesting.
 
Good to know. I’d love to see a map showing which oud species grow in which countries. Does any such info exist? Trying to google and learn about this topic is pretty difficult.
I think I saw something like this on Wikipedia, believe it or not, either the Aquilaria wiki or the Agarwood one. Not sure. Yeah, just normal google searches come up with not much good information about it tbh, maybe someone should make a post in the general thread called "Agarwood species and where they grow and are native to?". And start it off with their information, I think brother @iori would be great for this, as he is very knowledgeable about Kynam, which I suspect he is also just as, if not more, knowledgeable about normal agarwood, and agarwood species, how they grow and may even smell like? Just a thought 🙂
 
Zamarad 2 by HabzOud, this one definitely acts differently, but similar, each time I put it on, it is very non linear.

Notes of soft (sometimes I wear this and its super potent and not soft) natural mint, blue oceanic notes with a green jungle background, making you feel like you are standing on a white sand beach with the bright blue ocean smell. As the oil develops you are taken deeper into the forest, with the oceanic notes fading more into the background, a camphor note appears and makes you feel like you are in a wet, damp, rainforest, yet still very clear with the mint (the mint stays in the background most of the way through this oil, until it reaches complete dry down, and sometimes even shows its head very strongly during heart notes) and not muddy at all. Woody notes and agarwood incense notes. Very sweet, a super sweet oil, as well as some candy sourness like the description on the website says, "sherbet", very true. The longer you have it on it develops a nice resinous note, and some "purple-ness". Maybe a subdued purple berry? EDIT: Instead of purple berries, it actually smells somewhat of soft (non powdery) purple florals!!!

This is my first Pahang region oil.

Lovely oil by @Habz786 !!!
 
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Zamarad 2 by HabzOud, this one definitely acts differently, but similar, each time I put it on, it is very non linear.

Notes of soft (sometimes I wear this and its super potent and not soft) natural mint, blue oceanic notes with a green jungle background, making you feel like you are standing on a white sand beach with the bright blue ocean smell. As the oil develops you are taken deeper into the forest, with the oceanic notes fading more into the background, a camphor note appears and makes you feel like you are in a wet, damp, rainforest, yet still very clear with the mint (the mint stays in the background most of the way through this oil, until it reaches complete dry down, and sometimes even shows its head very strongly during heart notes) and not muddy at all. Woody notes and agarwood incense notes. Very sweet, a super sweet oil, as well as some candy sourness like the description on the website says, "sherbet", very true. The longer you have it on it develops a nice resinous note, and some "purple-ness". Maybe a subdued purple berry? EDIT: Instead of purple berries, it actually smells somewhat of soft (non powdery) purple florals!!!

This is my first Pahang region oil.

Lovely oil by @Habz786 !!!
I have a bottle of this and it is definitely a rich and sumptuous oil. Very saturated / rich presence to me. And I agree very much with that comment about it being a little bit different each time you interact with it. I just got a peppery tulip tree seed scent that I somehow missed last time. It’s kind of funny because I have no idea what this would smell like to somebody else because it smells different to me every time I smell it. On that level alone it is nice to have as a specimen.
 
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I have a bottle of this and it is definitely a rich and sumptuous oil. Very saturated / rich presence to me. And I agree very much with that comment about it being a little bit different each time you interact with it. I just got a peppery tulip tree seed scent that I somehow missed last time. It’s kind of funny because I have no idea what this would smell like to somebody else because it smells different to me every time I smell it. On that level alone it
Yeah, 100%. I am getting leathery notes, that I am not sure other people get. It is a nice leathery note though, not "barny" in any sort of way, a woody-sweet-resinous-leatheriness. It is pleasant.
 
Thaqeel S - The Oud Lab - Vaporous, almost citrus like florals, which slowly settles to a gently spiced berry or apple like fruitiness, not quite entirely blue, with hints of red berries, closer to the blue than the red. South Thai oils can have quite varied profiles, some which highlight their Malay facets, camphorous, green, with a leather-y ness, and others which are sticky syrupy sweet, I adore the former, whereas the latter isn't really my style. Thaqeel S takes those mint-y incense like facets and blends them with a reduced fruit base, which somehow maintains both the air-ness of the composition, and the richness of a fruit preserve. It's similar to imagining a nicely spiced apple pie, baking has concentrated the sugars within the apples, but with the perfect combination of cinnamon and nutmeg (as an aside, why is cardamom never used? 🤔) the apple flavor feels like its been lifted from a base note to the mid, it feels both dense yet lively!

Remains quite bracing throughout, a feature I look for, a welcome surprise considering most Thaqeels have a tough time maintaining any top notes, let alone as energetic as what you'll find here. Texture wise this Thaqeel goes on waxy, which is how I prefer them, as opposed to the stickier oils, and it's quite cold here today, so a good reference day. It'll be a part of my first Taraweeh mukhallat today! A brilliant oil which'll appeal to beginners, and give experienced users something to chew on. Not only does it check all my boxes, but it's outshone my expectations!
 
Good to know. I’d love to see a map showing which oud species grow in which countries. Does any such info exist? Trying to google and learn about this topic is pretty difficult.

 


Thanks! This is awesome
 
Thaqeel S - The Oud Lab - Vaporous, almost citrus like florals, which slowly settles to a gently spiced berry or apple like fruitiness, not quite entirely blue, with hints of red berries, closer to the blue than the red. South Thai oils can have quite varied profiles, some which highlight their Malay facets, camphorous, green, with a leather-y ness, and others which are sticky syrupy sweet, I adore the former, whereas the latter isn't really my style. Thaqeel S takes those mint-y incense like facets and blends them with a reduced fruit base, which somehow maintains both the air-ness of the composition, and the richness of a fruit preserve. It's similar to imagining a nicely spiced apple pie, baking has concentrated the sugars within the apples, but with the perfect combination of cinnamon and nutmeg (as an aside, why is cardamom never used? 🤔) the apple flavor feels like its been lifted from a base note to the mid, it feels both dense yet lively!

Remains quite bracing throughout, a feature I look for, a welcome surprise considering most Thaqeels have a tough time maintaining any top notes, let alone as energetic as what you'll find here. Texture wise this Thaqeel goes on waxy, which is how I prefer them, as opposed to the stickier oils, and it's quite cold here today, so a good reference day. It'll be a part of my first Taraweeh mukhallat today! A brilliant oil which'll appeal to beginners, and give experienced users something to chew on. Not only does it check all my boxes, but it's outshone my expectations!
A wonderful review of a brilliant oil! I love reading your posts brother, it’s one thing to understand what you’re smelling but to express yourself with such clarity is another.

Thaqeel S is a gem, I’ll definitely be purchasing 2.5g. I’m still using a generous sample I was gifted by AT. It recalls the masterpiece Kanbi Koh (one of my top 3 favourite oils of all time). Last time I wore Thaqeel S I detected something vaporous berry-green recalling the Malinau-Tarakan profile, it surprised me.
 
A wonderful review of a brilliant oil! I love reading your posts brother, it’s one thing to understand what you’re smelling but to express yourself with such clarity is another.

Thaqeel S is a gem, I’ll definitely be purchasing 2.5g. I’m still using a generous sample I was gifted by AT. It recalls the masterpiece Kanbi Koh (one of my top 3 favourite oils of all time). Last time I wore Thaqeel S I detected something vaporous berry-green recalling the Malinau-Tarakan profile, it surprised me.

Mashallah Ahmaoud always has a way with words when it comes to describing oils.
 
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