Today I got my sample of Sulaym HM Muateq and I could not resist taking a sniff and a small dab before bed.
I'll say straight up this oil smells like a super clean Bhutan oil, even the Assam 3000 from EO(which has strong Bhutanese vibes). Doesn't smell Malay or Cambodian in any form or shape to me. As soon as I sniffed it from the vial I thought "it smells Bhutan". So I needed to take a small swipe to make sure I'm not crazy but nope, it does smell Bhutan. Like super clean. Red, honeybush tea notes, spices. The only thing that feels different is this slight muskiness that replaces that Agallochan wood profile. Only smelled one Terengganu oil, Oud Sultani, but that one is proper Malay, very floral, and honey-sweet resin with a bit of that Oud Royale 82' DNA. It's a nice smell (I love Bhutan oils), but no way it smells Malay, or Cambodian to me. I much prefer the Purple Malay, which smells like proper Kelantan with some nice NG blues. This one, it's an oddball. Will revisit it again. So far it's a nice Bhutan oil to my nose with a nice musky touch.
 
Oud Royal Serendib from Ashworth Oud. I have been wearing this a lot over the last year.

Big oceanic stank like the flotsam and expired sea creatures seen baking under the maritime sun; yet super refined and works perfectly as a soliflore. Good all round combination of Silani characteristics: low heat Walla, tropical fruit, touch of sparkle. The dominant note is a green ozonic cloud, and it terminates on a deep clean transparent hazlenut tone, no black oil here. Doesn't pull too far in any direction and lasts a really long time in its primary state.
 
KYMYA - Merauke NS Incense. Impressive immediate incense and depth. I realized wearing it yesterday and am still podering, how similar Merauke is to CK green kinam. I got a green CK oil recently and dismissed immediately. I really dislike a sweet forest, it actually turns my stomach. Gosh maybe my Karma sucks. But whatever this Merauke Incense oil is, I can tell this was distilled with mastery.
 
mesOUD - Papua Muting
mesOUD - Merauke


Went with two a. Filaria oils to test out and another first for me, as I’ve never tried the species before. What a wild region, as these are very interesting oils to me.

Papua Muting brings me right back to visiting New York with my parents. There was a little shoe store in Brooklyn owned by a Russian family, and the smell of this oil takes me to right back there. The smell of polished leather shoes is so distinctly clear in this oil it’s stunning. It does remind me a bit of Sumbawa Black, but it has its own smell that certainly feels much more vaporous, more of the actually polish they used on the shoes than the leather. There’s a little woody note to it, but primarily polished leather, so clear that if I close my eyes I’m right back in that store waiting for my mom to try on her 12th pair of shoes.

Merauke surprised me greatly. This smells like a dessert, very much like Café Ambre Noir from Sultan Pasha. Roasted warm coffee and sweet vanilla, almost like a fresh latte. The coffee note on this oil is the strongest I’ve tried so far, it’s mouthwatering good. There’s real small hits of dampness and and a earthy tone to the scent, but it’s all coffee deliciousness on the top notes.

Edit: 3 hours later, PM is still a wonderful polished leather accord, now greeted by a damp woodsy soil petrichor scent.

Merauke is is still having that coffe note, but now it’s changed too. More of a dirt, maybe like a mud. Not too wet, damp and earthy, soily. I would say between the two this would be my preffered oil.
 
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2021 Garo Hills, by @RisingPhoenix
The opening is sweet berries, sticky plum, fragrant saffron, and a hint of barnyard.

it's a very easy-going oud oil that everyone can enjoy. the fruity sweetness is well-suited for hot weather and stimulates taste buds.

there are no off-putting notes. it's just very clean and pleasant. the terroir's characteristics are well expressed.

a good value for the price. and a great oil to experience the region's terroir.
 
mesOUD - Oud Said
mesOUD - Sarawak Ateeq


This morning I swiped on Oud Said, another gyrinops oil from Mehmet, this time being a co-distillation of woods from Sumbawa and Lombok I believe. This is another polished leather type oil as most of the gyrinops have been for me. This oil gives off the feeling of a refined older gentleman, an aftershave he’s been using for 40 years, a polished leather jacket, and the remnants of cigars smoked hours prior. There’s a deeper more complex scent to the polished leather as opposed to the Sumbawa Black from the same region. Some sort of spicy and tobacco notes, mixing with the refreshing cologne like note. Very long lasting oil too, even after going to the gym and showering, it was still clearly noticeable on the skin. A very complex scent but it doesn’t change much in its lifespan, very good oil.

After the gym I swiped on Sarawak Ateeq again. I did not remember the opening being so loud and barnyard fermented funk. Maybe I have just been using cleaner oils for the past couple of days, but the initial blast of pungent sour funk was intense. Hints of molten bubbly chocolate and apricot jam. I just swiped this one on again so will see how it develops.

Edit: lovely deeply resinous woodsy profile on the drydown of SA. Not sure if I can say it smells like a Malaysian resinous drydown for certain, as I haven’t tried enough to really say anything for certain, but I can get a lovely sour and resinous leathery profile. Really nice oil but I feel like I still don’t understand it enough.
 
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SULAYM - HM Royal Malay. I bought this coming on 7 months now... or longer, was my first artisanal oud, and I am down to a tiny drop, maybe 1 more application? I will probably just leave it forever and when it is SUPER, SUPER, SUPER rare (even though it is already super rare as it is), I may sell it for a quick buck and someone can either use the one time application to try it as it will no longer be available, or they can put strong ethanol in it and make a spray that may last them longer.

Anyway, I have not worn this properly in months, but now I am about 5 hours in and it is such a God tier oil!!!

Starts off very resinous (for a Malay malaccensis, it is super resinous compared to what I have been wearing... Cambodi's) and lovely lush, green, jungle tones, with a lovely sweet purple berry note, as it develops you get notes of wood coming in that is very rich and sophisticated, creamy, Malaysian wood... I pick up some mintiness, but it's quite fleeting, it produces a clean earthiness, but still in the traditional oil fashion. The more it develops I got more and more resinous and creamy, more antique style Malaysian wood (btw this is also a note in Wild Malaysian wood, the creamy woodiness), that turned into a lovely incense that came in and out and was quite ethereal, never really revealing itself within the first 45 - 60 mins, but would taunt and tease you. Some bitter orange peel undertones, and other (citrus) sour fruits mixed with the super sweet PURPLE berries, that felt like it was sort of getting crushed into a fine wine, with its almost "jammy" quality. Some notes of camphor circle about and closing up to the first hour of this oil you go right into a deep, dark, creepy forest/jungle... in there you meet lots of things, it gave me vibes of a jungle/forest that was once a city but humanity destroyed itself and you are apart of the last ones here, its dark, its very camphorus, very earthy, and bitter green (with that nice sweet purple soothing you), herbaceous notes. I came across an old library and entered, notes of creamy, very old antique wood, and tons of camphor notes that makes it feel old and creepy, dark, and creamy, very old antique wood, with leathery books... this continues for atleast 30-60mins, then you come out the other end and you are already 2.5 hours in... and now it is back to the sweet, light, purple berries... nothing terrifying or "dark" anymore. Malaccensis woody incense, resinous and woody incense, and resinous (rarely alone) incense takes the wheel for majority of the ride to dry down, very rich, sophisticated cola notes appear more often, and you are left in the arms of a sweet, cola, purple berry, creamy antique wood of Malaysia with some slight spices popping up here and there.

This is a long oil, and I wanted to write something along the lines of how it made me feel, instead of just all, NOTES NOTES NOTES. So, here we are.

It is a very sweet, but can also be a very sour, citrus, oil and sweet, dark and spicy.

Lovely oil... I am sad I am without the amount I had when I first got it.


EDIT: Floral end base note onto dry down. Lovely bubbly.
 
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this is my third wearing of "Huian Ko" 2015 Yusa Aromatics.

This has what I believe is a classic sinensis opening - a woody bitter and sugary medicinal scent that has aspects of carrot seed, nagarmotha, ck and crassna oils, in the same scent group as royal kinam but that oil is more toppy. Sinensis / hainan oils sometimes have "salivary notes" that I am not crazy about, but this one steers clear of that. The impact is mid-level, not especially top note oriented but not a super low lying base oriented oil either. I still don't really have a firm grip on longevity because I'm working on fragrances and I'm smelling a lot of stuff every day. I need to look up the information on this one… nice oil, and I would love to hear other people's impressions if any of you have some.
 
myoudshop - Meiktila

First oil from the package from myoudshop, a Burmese A. sinensis oil. I thought it smelled quite familiar to my nose before reading anything about this oil. To me it smelled like a honeyed apricot Malacenssis oil similar to something I’ve tried from Mehmets sample set. It was only after learning the region, species, and smelling a little deeper did I realize what this reminded me of. This has many of the same hits and notes that I get from Myitkyina 4K. I’ve only swiped that oil twice, so it’s not a profile I’m familiar with or can pick out very quickly, but there’s similarities here that are too hard to ignore.

It opens up with a slightly sour dried fruit hit. I thought dried apricots but it is more of a raisins or prune smell. Warm and orange/peach in hue. There’s a slight bitter honey smell that intertwined with the fruits, along with a creamy custard note.

If I haven’t passed out I will update with how it changes, but either way this oil will get many more swipes for studying. I plan on swiping this alongside M4K on a later date and doing a comparison on my two Burmese treasures.
[Ouddict.com] Oud of the Day
 
Did another wearing of the HM Muateq. Last time it was late and didn't give it enough time on the skin.
The same story in the opening. It smells rather Burmese/Bhutan/even Hindi but clean, no funk or soak. Smells a bit traditional though. This part lasts for a long time. I'd say 4 hours on my skin. When I was ready to give up on it, it finally morphed into what I'd be more comfortable recognizing as a Malay. It has hints of Oud Ahmad but lacks its complexity, sweetness, and smoothness. It plays on that red flavor, dark musk, and dark incense theme as Ahmad does. At this point I like it. I find it worthwhile. The smokiness it's a bit rougher than I'd like but nothing to upset. It's a dark and red Malay oil that smells like Hindi/Bhutan/Burmese for a good 4 hours and then settles down as a Malay. Fiery red opening, spicy even. Some smooth leather afterward and a bit of a traditional oomph. Settles down as a black, smoky musk with a lingering red hue but no sweetness. The leathery vibe hangs on tight. A good oil. For me, no better than the Purple Malay. That one was spectacular for my tastes and in my books the 3rd best SQ oil I ever tried, only behind Meghalaya 77 and Oud Royale. A terrific specimen. Not sure if I'd classify it as a Malay based on the scent profile. It could go all over the spectrum for me. Hindi, Bhutan, Burma, Cambodi, and Malay.
 
How’s Ali’s recent output. Bought from him once a year or two ago and wasn’t all that impressed
I'd revisit if I were you. Mine is from 2023 , it still has a long way to go but it's phenomenal. Ali distills & sells , he doesn't worry about aging too much & Silani's take even longer to cure than reg oud distillations so I've heard. I was a bit underwhelmed when I first got mine & If I remember correctly baba Kani @YusaAromatics told me Silani's take about a full year to cure & finally start taking shape. Once it takes shape the development will be a long process but it'll only get more & more complex & nuanced as it ages.

Brothers like Ali & Mehmet are giving us a different experience & perspective on oils , I just wish more consumers would understand & appreciate everything that comes with young oils.
 
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Oh man I was lucky enough to just put on a swipe of yusa's Nha Trang Ko 2013.

Is this sinensis or some special strain of crassna? It reminds me of sinensis oils, mainly, and only the aspects of crassna that i find appealing.

This one is unusually beautifully balanced in it's top and mid notes. I will say that again because this is not a random gushing of praise, this is a specific and unique aspect of this oil.

Very very exceptional in terms of the balance of the various facets of agarwood/Vietnamese style oud. Carrot seed and nagarmotha, bitter-sweet, a dark crackling heated oud resin note lies under it all. In many oils akin to this, the carrot seed and nag are glaring (Royal Kinam #1 for example) or salivary notes are evident, or odd antiseptic / medicinal notes stand out in the opening. This has none of that

I'm trying to think of the last time I smelled an oil this well balanced… Maybe super Hoi An, although that one was more punchy overall and a little more fermentation notes in the opening. Both have a very harmonious scent, emphasizing the most pleasant notes that I have smelled in Vietnamese oud and ck wood etc.

I stick to reviewing things that I view favorably here for the most part, but I reserve strong enthusiasm for the oils that are really exceptional to me. I hope to get a chance to smell a few more oils someday that remind me of this and super hoi an.

I'm afraid to check the price because I would love to have a bucket of this, smells like an expensive oil 🙂

Time to bust out the super hoi an!
 
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mesOUD - Meleka
mesOUD - Sumatra Blue

Meleka
is hands down one of, if not my absolute favorites from all the oils in the set so far. Bitter medicinal herbs, slight floral twang, and a animalic muskyness that I’m now noticing. It more closely resembles the civet paste I was smelling in the Vietnam + Civet maceration from Mehmet. The florals does make it sing a little like a deer musk, but more civet all in all. Can’t get enough of this stuff!

Sumatra Blue is another entry to the moist earth, petrichor, and jungly type oils I’ve sampled recently. It smells wet and dirt-like, maybe even moldy or mildewy. There’s a very lovely polished leather note similar to the gyrinops distillations I’ve sampled recently as well. What separates this one from the others for me is a slightly oceanic breeze coming through the scent too, I can see why it has the moniker “blue”. Clean and no a touch of off notes, and one of the better balanced profiles that contain all these notes for me.
 
With this one, I love the dry down the most. I find it quite unlike other Oriscents in the sense that is not recognizable as one. The opening for me is a bit mainstream but then it starts to go in all kind of directions. It's an oil of many but very subtle transitions. Ensar says it's Ahmad's Oriscent twin. At first I thought he's mad. But now I see what he meant. Ahmad has this dark vibe in the dry down that I perceive as a dark room with burning incense only slightly lit by a dim red light. Kelantan to me has the same effect but the light feels rather blue-purple and the chamber is in a 香道 Kōdō chamber instead of a Harem.
@Dr B1414, I am also interested about Oriscent kelantan and really learned a lot from your description.
Do you know any information about its year of distillation, is it 'old Oriscent' or 'new Oriscent' ?
 
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