Zanthoxylem distilled cologne again today, sprayed on my neck like I did yesterday. I kept smelling wafts of this yesterday long after I would've expected the smell to have faded, I thought my cats had maybe knocked a bottle over or something, but it turns out it was just the spritz that I had applied to my neck/ upper chest releasing the aroma much more slowly.. This really is the best place to apply this particular type of fragrance I guess the beard / chest hair truly do latch onto and retain the fragrance for a while. On my forearm these progress quickly and within a relatively short time one is left with only a trace of scent - a delicate orange blossom skin scent . That can be quite long lasting but there's a certain sparkling quality to the top and mid notes that's usually gone very quickly and I was enjoying it for a couple of hours longer than I was expecting to

The main reason why distilled colognes are so volatile by their nature is because of the production method: the majority of the oils in the perfume are redistilled at low temperatures to produce topnote fractions (since the first stage involves mixing essential oils with fresh herbs and alcohol and a little bit of water and distilling which ends up being in the low 80s for real whereas all non-vacuum hydrodistillation is at 100° + regardless of what you read). This mixture has a very low boiling point and it is not distilled over completely so you end up separating top fractions and leaving heavier stuff behind in the still.
 
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Jogi - Alif

An older spray from the house, sold as a set - The Sultan Collection. This is the brightest of the 3. Very much a green scent - nutty pistachio, betel nut, and Tahitian Gardenia supported by florals, violet, and other aromatics. There are some similarities to EO Tahitian Gardenia. The base is classic jogi, centering around an overdose of natural musks along with aged ouds, frankincense, sandal, ambergris, and civet.

It's an excellent scent with great evolution on skin. It is not a huge performer.
 
Wearing “Eye Of The Vault” today by MANGLA, a Tibetan “lifestyle” brand (perfume, diffusers, incense, lotion and more). This is their sandalwood fragrance, also featuring cardamom and coconut. Its a soft, airy, warm and spicy scent that is worn best in cooler weather, like today. Its very comforting and grounding to me, the coconut is not sweet but more textural, providing a smooth creamy opening to the sandalwood. Overall its very minimal in composition and moderate in projection, which is enjoyable to me. There is some powdery benzoin at the base as well as some dry “musk” and “agarwood”. I do remember the rep mentioning they do some distilling of oud but I doubt there is any in this product so, naturally I gave it a little boost of oud with my fave daily dabber, a wild thai from khao yai by my friend safinity.
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Manzar Oudh - Qahir

I got this spray after reading @Alamande ‘s review. I had bought some Ouds from Munzar before but I was still in the anti-barn phase.

Fast-forward to today and views change. Qahir is a really potent Hindi forward perfume. It has a slight note of barn from the Hindi Ouds but I also think this spray has castoreum. I might be mistaken about that. I do get the boozy and fruity notes described. This is a really beautiful parfum with notes of rose 🌹 , lemon🍋, with a touch of clove, and cinnamon. I love the spiciness of it and 2-3 sprays are enough. 2 on the skin and 1 on the clothes. This would be very suitable for the winter. Really beautiful artisanal parfum. It develops into a really complex melange of beautiful notes with the dry-down.

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Munzar Oudh - Qahir

I got this spray after reading @Alamande ‘s review. I had bought some Ouds from Munzar before but I was still in the anti-barn phase.

Fast-forward to today and views change. Qahir is a really potent Hindi forward perfume. It has a slight note of barn from the Hindi Ouds but I also think this spray has castoreum. I might be mistaken about that. I do get the boozy and fruity notes described. This is a really beautiful parfum with notes of rose 🌹 , lemon🍋, with a touch of clove, and cinnamon. I love the spiciness of it and 2-3 sprays are enough. 2 on the skin and 1 on the clothes. This would be very suitable for the winter. Really beautiful artisanal parfum.

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Nice one @mobyus - I have used about a third of my bottle of this already, and I’m still enjoying it. The rosy opening is especially well-composed, and the ouds are very generously dosed.

I must admit, the dry-down is much more robust and barnyard-like than my first impressions indicated, so I would mostly recommend this to people who know and enjoy a traditional Hindi oud profile.

On a logistical note, the atomiser on my bottle has completely stopped working, so I’ve had to resort to holding the bottle upside down and dabbing the perfume instead. I will feed this back to Hardick so he knows.
 
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Al Shareef Oudh – Al Misk, layered with Arabian Blend – Jabal Al Nour.

1 spray of Al Misk in each inner elbow, with Jabal Al Noor on the forearms and neck.

Al Misk is a truly beautiful composition. All the pleasant facets of musk are here. It doesn’t diffuse loudly, but five hours after spraying, it’s still very much present. Every now and then I get a lovely little waft, which has been very enjoyable.

Jabal Al Nour pairs really well with it. I got this one for a steal. I originally smelled it in an Arabian Oud store but didn’t feel it was worth the full RRP. It’s a gentle, rose-dominant scent with a clean oud note. I’m not sure if it’s real oud or an accord, but either way, it’s very pleasant.

I usually regret my layering combos because they’re often a slapdash, “what should I wear?” situation where I grab two scents I like and hope for the best. More often than not, they don’t quite work together.

This, however, works very well. A good combination and one I’ll definitely be wearing again.

Good day, all!!
 
Kinana Scents - Coronation Purple

This is a really regal parfum. Right off the top I’m getting the powdery orris and patchouli. It smells somewhat sweet, leathery, and the Bulgarian rose abs and ylang ylang give it a fresh feel. The heliotrope is a new ingredient to me but I love the cherry note it gives off. The civet and musk is very beautiful and not overwhelming the scent. There’s definitely a “purple” vibe going on and I can discern the, Mysore SW, vanilla, and benzoin. Overall, a stunning parfum that projects imperial and majestic qualities with moderate sillage and projection.
 

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A splash of vintage Antaeus today with a swipe of Zabad al Qamar, a swipe of taif rose with Mongolian deer musk, and a swipe of SQ bakhoor. Then fumigated clothes with Kalimantan oud. Um, I guess I was in a mood today. It's interesting what happened to Antaeus; It became a kind of green oud fragrance. All the gothic, stoic and sharp elements that I associate with Antaeus became moodier and maybe even mystical.
 
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Dior Oud Ispahan Espirit drops at pulse points with a swipe of SQ Shamamatul amber and a swipe of SQ Mukhallat Sultani. Then fumigated clothes with special bakhoor I made steeped in Malle's Musc Ravageur. The shamamatul adds dark, oakmossy woods, cutting through the crystalline mukhallat that is primarily a jasmine-taif-cheesy, sweet oud. Dior's rose is darker and jammier, bringing clove and cumin into the mix with a laughable but nonetheless leathery oud base. The bakhoor brings camphor and white musk without any of the sweetness I dislike in Musc Ravageur.
 
I had a hard time figuring this one out. Part of that is the price. After Santal Sultan and Santal Royale, I expected Tán Xiang to be an even bigger, more complete expression of sandalwood. I expected it to punch me in the face, and it didn’t.

Sandalwood can be tricky. Most pure sandalwood oils I’ve tried don’t smell the way I imagine old Mysore heartwood should smell. They capture the cream, spice, warmth, or wood, but rarely the whole profile. Santal Sultan and Santal Royale bring those facets together beautifully.

With Tán Xiang, I get Mysore heartwood smoldering somewhere out of sight. It isn’t heavy smoke. It’s a fine aromatic vapor, dry and warm, with a faint camphoraceous lift, soft muskiness, and creamy resinous sweetness moving in and out. It smells less like the wood itself than the air the wood has changed. It’s the air between the scents.

It took me about a dozen wearings to appreciate that. Tán Xiang still isn’t the overwhelming sandalwood experience I expected, but once I stopped waiting for it to become that, I started to understand what it was doing.
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Dior Oud Ispahan Espirit drops at pulse points with a swipe of SQ Shamamatul amber and a swipe of SQ Mukhallat Sultani. Then fumigated clothes with special bakhoor I made steeped in Malle's Musc Ravageur. The shamamatul adds dark, oakmossy woods, cutting through the crystalline mukhallat that is primarily a jasmine-taif-cheesy, sweet oud. Dior's rose is darker and jammier, bringing clove and cumin into the mix with a laughable but nonetheless leathery oud base. The bakhoor brings camphor and white musk without any of the sweetness I dislike in Musc Ravageur.
Sounds intense. Surely, you are noticeably fragrant!
 
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