Not familiar with the purple malay. I took a quick whiff from the cap of this after your post - smells like the muateq will be a wonderful oil to study.
 
A swipe of Oud Ahmed for the night - you get everything you that you can imagine about an oud oil here.
Dissecting this wouldn’t do justice to what this potion holds. I only had a few swipes worth of this oil and I’ve just swiped the last one. Not sure if I loved the first one more or this one.
 
Not familiar with the purple malay. I took a quick whiff from the cap of this after your post - smells like the muateq will be a wonderful oil to study.
HM Muateq needs exactly that. It’s own day where you can study the depth and transitions. It’s very unique. HM Purple Malay is crystalline in It’s profile. Whereas HM Muateq is a Terengganu which does a dance between notes and profiles. It’s almost as though it was co-distilled with wild Cambodi wood.
 
I have to say the Lao really stands out.
That is one "zinging" oud - really spans the register in its notes - high vibrating and tangy, effervescent /brightened spikenard ferment elements, rich broad scintillating wood heart, bittersweet base. Has "tooth".

I will be curious to hear other people's impressions - wondering why I haven't encountered this Tangy type more often.

I have to revisit my Bolisat sample - to me your sulaym / HM lao is it the same kind and the few other laos i have smelled have been more like sweet thai/cambodi.
 
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I showed HM Royal Laos to a French perfumer who has decades of experience. We tested it together, coming back to it every so often, comparing to other Ouds in the organ. It came on top for its notes, profile and longevity. I’m glad you appreciate HM Laos as many people shy away from this profile due to offerings we have had in the market for the past decade which are usually really heavy on the blue cheese and mustiness in the dry down.
 
I have swiped it twice already and I'm starting to form an impression. Still don't quite feel like I know it well enough to comment but the quality is clearly there.
Understandable for a complex oil although, you have one of the most experienced of noses 👌
 
Where to start? Allergy season started and my nose was off for a while so I was using more perfumes and attars as they are more pungent and easier to smell. My last couple wears:

Alhindoud - Kawthaung
Very pleasent burmese, it smells like a cambodian to me with these fruity sweet touches and smooth round profile

Jinkoh Store - Tok Kun Qi
If a cherry had a kinam version, its This 🍒 Sweet cherry with kinamic wafts, an ethereal type of oil with a touch of bitterness/nuttiness.

Yusa - Koh Kong Ko
It finally blossomed on my skin. 1st time it smelled too leathery!? Which didnt make sense and I knew its not the oils true core (maybe stress/heat/sweat was distorting the true smell)
Start is serious, green, fresh cut trees in a jungle with almost no sweetness. After a while a delicious addictive sweetness pops up. Vanilla type of sweetness that goes in perfect harmony with the aforementioned green scent bubble. Really good stuff!! 😋
Habzoud - Turba
I love the way Habzoud Oils are named because they almost always hit the spot. Only an experienced nose and a person who really wears and cares about his oils would choose such suitable names that reflect the oils smell, core and feelings.
Turba means earth/soil and its exactly what you smell and where it transports you
Earthy, dark brown, touch of leather and musty in a way. It may sound overwhelming but there is a sweet resinous core that is carrying all these associations and connecting them to transfer you to the garden of an old house. A garden with old trees and decayed greenery on the wet soil of agarwood powder. My dad would love this. I would love to wear this and work in our garden, plant some trees and get my hands dirty 😆🌳
 
Understandable for a complex oil although, you have one of the most experienced of noses 👌
Thanks. It is a low funk agallocha, hindi type, pleasant aroma across the board, i'll need to smell it again to really differentiate it from the other low funk Hindi oils I have smelled.

My challenge is I've never really collected or worn hindi oud - don't have a bottle of any in my collection for example, other than samples. if I smell something from Thailand or Indonesia I can immediately relate it to things that I've studied very carefully or worn extensively, and can give a quick impression with some confidence. Hindi, I feel more like a novice still trying to acquire the taste.
 
HM Muateq needs exactly that. It’s own day where you can study the depth and transitions. It’s very unique. HM Purple Malay is crystalline in It’s profile. Whereas HM Muateq is a Terengganu which does a dance between notes and profiles. It’s almost as though it was co-distilled with wild Cambodi wood.


"Studying" is really where the beauty is to be found. I have recently gotten my hands on multiple specimens of jaw dropping ouds this last couple of weeks. I am kind of shocked actually because we are talking heavy duty very fine oil - and i am excited to share my observations as i work through and study these beauties.

I am lucky enough to have a whole bunch of homework to do here and finally some time do it. The challenge is having time for studying any one material while still continuing to work on blending and perfumes. It takes hours without the competition of other fragrances, on multiple separate days, to really understand the subtleties of a new and complex oud.
 
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For the day, two oils from the Sultan Series saga and one that I have been highly expecting to try.

EO Sultan Ahmet
EO Sultan Mehmet
Jinkoh Store Borneo Qi


I know many who regard Sultan Ahmet as the finest oil in the Sultan Series and one of the finest oils EO ever offered. Taha said it is his favorite oil from Ensar. WOW. I'm a bit underwhelmed here, to be honest. The oil doesn't do much for me. It is a great achievement I sense from a distiller's point of view, but perhaps I want something else from my oud oils. Brunei and New Guinea co-distill. I get more of the NG than the Brunei part. What I find impressive about this oil is how it feels like a proper perfume, more so than an artisanal oud oil. It is possibly the smoothest and silkiest oil I have tried, with transitions that you can hardly capture. Very creamy also. It's a "perfumey" oud oil. That, I can appreciate and applaud. But I can't say I love the olfactory experience. I feel this oil is still locked to my nose, and perhaps I need more time to decipher it. It has this ethereal mountain air breeze to the top, a bit of an Oceanic blue color and light forest-like touches, creamy florals, and creamy woods. It goes in and out from one stage to the other seamlessly. The Brunei component becomes more assertive in the dry-down but overall, it feels like a new Species, neither NG nor Brunei. As mentioned, a great artistic achievement just not my cup of tea.

On the flip side, Sultan Mehmet is outstanding. This one ticks all the boxes for me and is one of the best Borneo oils I have tried thus far. One of the best actually. I am shocked it doesn't get much talk in the community. I believe it should also have an NG component, as a member of the Sultan Family but I get none of that. This is a full-fledged Boreno brew of the finest quality. It is incredibly rich and dense while also feeling super smooth and polished, just like Ahmet. Unlike Ahmet, you can immediately tell its origin. What I love about this oil, is that it doesn't have that honey-like sweetness you find in most Borneos. It's an oil that has 0 confectionary sweetness. More like a natural vanilla flavor. In that regard, it brings to mind another favorite Borneo oil of mine, Jinkoh's Malinau Qi. I'd say that oil is the closest resemblance to Mehmet. Boasting a full-on natural vanilla flavor with no sweetness. The difference is that Mehmet is more creamy, smooth, and powdery, not as woody as Malinau Qi, and it has this gorgeous raspberry note popping in and out whereas M Qi is devoid of fruity facets. Thick, creamy vanilla, raspberries, some slight verdant qualities, and creamy florals. Comparing it to Ahmet I'd trade my Ahmet for more of this any moment lol. Now I'm even more curious about Oud Ertugrul which often gets compared to Mehmet. Mehmet is in my books, an outstanding oil.

Borneo Qi brings a unique twist to the Bornean profile and while I very much enjoy the top and the mid I don't like the dry down of this oil. The latter goes for me in the Merauke territory with that clove-like spiciness and menthol as well as some petrichor. Don't like that part. The top is beautiful, with sharpish wood and incense smoke, 0 sweetness, and a faint vanillic quality with some florals lurking underneath. The mid gives away more of those florals and vanillic nuances. So far is a win for me and a welcomed departure to the most Borneo oils I have tried and then the base kicks in and knocks me over. Mint, spicy clove, and petrichor make me reminisce about the Merauke profile that I avoid as much as I can🙂. It is a complex and shifting oil, a new take on this profile but ultimately not for me.
 
Lan Xang by Fushigi
this one got hindi and laos profiles to my nose, maybe one of excellent representation of these regions.
starts with sweet mild citrusy note with a hint of hay in background. no off putting notes, it's a clean oil from start to finish. I got very faint spicy honey note in the middle, some floral components as well with an obvious woodiness throughout the wear.
these oils of Fushigi tend to be on the quiter side of performance, they are merely for personal enjoyment as I see them, and I can see why because as we know in the east they prefer there perfumes to be quite and clean.
this one is beautiful, and I think it will brings joy to any oud lover.
 
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they are merely for personal enjoyment as I see them, and I can see why because as we know in the east they prefer there perfumes to be quite and clean.
Personally, I only enjoy wearing Hindi oils as regular "perfumes". Most of them wear better in the air than close up the skin. Usually oils with heft, actually. Tigerwood Royale is another one. Close up, they might seem too much, but in the air, oh la la.
 
Personally, I only enjoy wearing Hindi oils as regular "perfumes". Most of them wear better in the air than close up the skin. Usually oils with heft, actually. Tigerwood Royale is another one. Close up, they might seem too much, but in the air, oh la la.
I think this one will be an exception. it is light and can be appreciated by multiple zoom in sniffs. not your regular indian or laotian oils.
 
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Lan Xang by Fushigi
this one got hindi and laos profile to my nose, maybe one of excellent representation of these regions.
starts with sweet mild citrusy note with a hint of hay in background. no off putting notes, it's a clean oil from start to finish. I got very faint spicy honey note in the middle, some floral components as well with an obvious woodiness throughout the wear.
these oils of Fushigi tend to be one the quiter side of performance, they are merely for personal enjoyment as I see them, and I can see why because as we know in the east they prefer there perfumes to be quite and clean.
this one is beautiful, and I think it will brings joy to any oud lover.
Nice write up! I really like this oil as well, one of the cleanest and clearest Lao oils Ive tried. Up there with Lao4k from Agar Aura, but I prefer the dry down on this one more. Glad you like it better than the Hainan lol.
 
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