Silani Qadeem - FP. I've had a bit of trouble with Silani Qadeem. I'm not a fan at all of barn or fermented notes as I have said before and it was my mistake not realising that this oil had this within it's profile so, I've put it away, even trying to sell or swap it for something else more in keeping with what I like but... I thought I'd try it again today and I believe it's actually growing on me. The fermented notes aren't as forthcoming as they were and the Sri Lankan tropical fruits are shining through in a more bold and appealing way. I may just keep this one instead.
 
To add from the last post. Having my nose tune into oils that previously were unappealing to me is one of the things I love about oud and that continues to surprise me. Never write an oil off just because you don't like it. Put it away. Try again later. What was once really not for you can become your favourite.
 
Faizal Privée - Burma Privée

Well, now that this out of stock and is a collectible, it has made it that much better to enjoy.

The opening is rich and dense with marine saltiness, yet light and airy at the same time. There’s a slight herbaceous scent I hadn’t picked up before that I did this time around. It’s fleeting and not so in your face. The dark syrupy consistency reveals a complex smokiness and slightly sugary caramel and jasmine aroma to the oud. It’s luxurious and well-rounded. I wish I could describe what I’m experiencing but I’de call it “melted wood”. This has hints of Badshah but I prefer this one. This is one of my favorite oils.

[Ouddict.com] Oud of the Day
 
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The big guns saga continue. mesOUD Assagon today. I get old pipes in the opening and I absolutely love it. It is joined later by a nice brown woodiness with some sweetness that is not generic and doesn't smell like rain-earth that I associate with marokes. The opening is not lost, just added to. Longevity is also on the higher side. If I had to pick one scent for a very special occasion, it would probably be Assagon. If anyone has some they wouldn't mind selling, please hit me up!
 
The big guns saga continue. mesOUD Assagon today. I get old pipes in the opening and I absolutely love it. It is joined later by a nice brown woodiness with some sweetness that is not generic and doesn't smell like rain-earth that I associate with marokes. The opening is not lost, just added to. Longevity is also on the higher side. If I had to pick one scent for a very special occasion, it would probably be Assagon. If anyone has some they wouldn't mind selling, please hit me up!
I'm fond of this one
 
@mesOUD SOLIDVS is my morning swipe.

This smells a little bit different every time I revisit it. Beautiful warm cinnamon type undertones, a custard-like smooth creaminess... very clean, refined and dignified.

I have had fewer opportunities to study Vietnamese oils than some other regions so this is a precious one for me both for it aroma and as a specimen representing Vietnamese crassna. Pretty much the most fascinating aspect of collecting for me is the ability to study specimens whose provenance I'm certain of. Having a lot to wear is not so important to me (although it would of course be a gas to have a big bottle of quality oils like this) but having enough to study is critical for me because these types of specimens enable me to put other things that did not come with the same quality of information/integrity of chain of possession into a meaningful context beyond mere personal taste.

Clean, confectionery, edible smelling get with this certain wild underlayer that brings forests, soils, and living things to mind

It's so interesting putting on a wild high-quality specimen like this after wearing various every day kinam extracts etc. for a week or
so. I'll get distracted by something, start working on some task or chore and kind of lose focus on the fact that I'm wearing something special, then all of a sudden my brain is activated by some exotic subtle presence from the wild oil and for a brief moment I'm trying to figure out what oil or layering of oils produced this exotic thing that I'm smelling… it is pretty remarkable

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Ebas Oud - Najd Blend

This is a thick, deep, and rich gazelle blood 🩸 colored oud that has facets of leather, damp forest floor, sugar cane, berries 🍇. It has a very slight note of rubber which I find delightful. It’s from 8 different regions so there is definitely a clash of aromas. It’s a pure delight!

[Ouddict.com] Oud of the Day
 
Habz Sultan Sulawesi to start the day. It was one of my earliest forays and my understanding of it has since changed. I like it just as much but it seems more weighty to me since I have been exposed to airier/diesely oils. Besides the car interior leather (as opposed to a hindi leather), I am noticing the clean oudiness here. It is a seamless base that was largely lost on me before but is very nice.

I also swiped some Habz Sufyaan. It was meant to be an easy reach swipe for me but I am judicious with it because it is so good. So far, it is by far the best of its category of brown hindis that are not stripped clean but are not traditional. It satisfies that classic hindi itch in amazing fashion, with leather and the slightest smack of spice. There is an amazing intersection of things that results in moments of a sharper lactonic note, almost like barely-acidic baby vomit! I always thought Sufyaan and Manipur Maliki were so different but the chasm has narrowed since I first smelled them. That feeling of wonder at oud oils in general has spiked again, im sure it is a common feeling in these parts.
 
Repeating dive into the still unreleased peninsular wild Malaysian from TOL - The Oud Lab, called 'Malacca Seiki';
'Seiki' 世紀 meaning 'a century' in Japanese - in allusion to the approximate age of the source tree; and so it is a single near-centennial tree Oud, incense-grade, about 7 years of age since the distillation, by no-soak modern method:
The dynamic beauty of the oil lies in particular combined effect of three factors I discern -
1- the richness of the balanced yet opposing voices;
2- the notable degree of Abstraction (as opposed to the literal trait) of the notes projection;
3- and the notes' evolution into the Depth.

First, The Voices - a pleasant, virtuosic really, duet of two intertwined voices - or rather two choires (as their voices are quite richly textured) at the opposite sides of the stage - like in ancient greek drama - singing the same melody in different registers, what captivates the nose from the first breathe-in -
The sweet choire - bright, flying high above, vanillic-chocolade-caramelic-apple-floral-fine suede,
and the savory choire - the powerful yet velvety bass hum of Ancient Wood in the lead - resonated by powdered rocky-mineralic - humid earth & moss (petrichor) - and forest foliage of various shades (from budding-fresh to wilting); together they create both the volume and the general expansive radiance - which is a functional excellence regardless of the beauty in the character. Shall I add, that with time, the savory choire becomes slightly more dominant and with a certain salinity, very lightly spiced with terpenic sap, while the sweet one morphes into more fresh floral, airy and less caramel-related. Worth noting that while becoming ever more airy, the sweet part does not disappear, remaining delicately sustained till the end of drydown, just ever more merging with the wood and earth.

The second aspect of captivation is the Abstraction - all those tones are not clear-cut defined but rather smoothly 'veiled' - softly hinting rather than outlining - like if made with wet aquarel; in fact, except the ample ancient wood' notes, all the other labels are true only to a certain degree - the flowers are not specific, the vanilla is rather an adjective about the mineralic powdered rocks- than a noun standing on its own, and all the secondary notes are flitting around like butterflies making it difficult to capture the exact pattern on their aromatic 'wings' - instead of more common direct and obvious straight-forwardness. It is the high degree of Abstraction in the character and Impressionistic in style - what gives this Oud an evocative power of imaginative aromatic storytelling, leading to -

the third aspect of 'Malacca Seiki' - is evolution into the Depth (both virtual and metaphoric): as the scent progresses and both the jungle-saturated humidity and the airiness grow while the sweeteness and the savory choir come closer and closer,
- yet most importantly, the whole double choir descends an octave and goes underground - as turning into a cellar - but a palatial one - spacious and finely decorated, elfine-like earthy space: the antique-wooden panels are intricately carved with mythical creatures and whiplashing vegetation, the whimsical flowers and the leaves are woven into tapestries on the walls depicting adventures of the knights and faeries in stylized forests and gardens, and the clever invisible ventilation brings wafts of fresh humid air into that underground castle space...

The scent resolves itself into a harmonious, effusive, airy-woody enchantment of the drydown - bestowing peace of mind like a happy ending of a fully resolved dramatic fairytale, soothing the heart and bringing the smile of childlike satisfaction from a good story, that makes you (me) to believe in all the good in the world and the magic still hiding in the old jungles, and the fairies are still living under the roots of centennial trees in their hidden abodes perceiveable to humans only by the beautiful scent...
Effortlessly enchanting.
 
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Malinau Maliki - Habzoud. The projection on this is huge. Crushed candied almonds cooled through a cold mist.
This morning I'm trying some samples from brother Sami. One of them which is called Hindi Power is absolutely phenomenal. The association that's brought to mind is of black tea like an Earl Grey with a dash of milk plus a biscuit that my parents used to dunk into the tea from Arnotts biscuits called Orange Slice. The biscuit part was vanilla flavored and it had an orange flavored filling inside it. Crazy!
 
Malinau Maliki - Habzoud. The projection on this is huge. Crushed candied almonds cooled through a cold mist.
This morning I'm trying some samples from brother Sami. One of them which is called Hindi Power is absolutely phenomenal. The association that's brought to mind is of black tea like an Earl Grey with a dash of milk plus a biscuit that my parents used to dunk into the tea from Arnotts biscuits called Orange Slice. The biscuit part was vanilla flavored and it had an orange flavored filling inside it. Crazy!
yum
 
Repeating dive into the still unreleased peninsular wild Malaysian from TOL - The Oud Lab, called 'Malacca Seiki';
'Seiki' 世紀 meaning 'a century' in Japanese - in allusion to the approximate age of the source tree; and so it is a single near-centennial tree Oud, incense-grade, about 7 years of age since the distillation, by no-soak modern method:
The dynamic beauty of the oil lies in particular combined effect of three factors I discern -
1- the richness of the balanced yet opposing voices;
2- the notable degree of Abstraction (as opposed to the literal trait) of the notes projection;
3- and the notes' evolution into the Depth.

First, The Voices - a pleasant, virtuosic really, duet of two intertwined voices - or rather two choires (as their voices are quite richly textured) at the opposite sides of the stage - like in ancient greek drama - singing the same melody in different registers, what captivates the nose from the first breathe-in -
The sweet choire - bright, flying high above, vanillic-caramelic-apple-floral-fine suede,
and the savory choire - the powerful yet velvety bass hum of Ancient Wood in the lead - resonated by powdered rocky-mineralic - humid earth & moss (petrichor) - and forest foliage of various shades (from budding-fresh to wilting); together they create both the volume and the general expansive radiance - which is a functional excellence regardless of the beauty in the character. Shall I add, that with time, the savory choire becomes slightly more dominant and with a certain salinity, very lightly spiced with terpenic sap, while the sweet one morphes into more fresh floral, airy and less caramel-related. Worth noting that while becoming ever more airy, the sweet part does not disappear, remaining delicately sustained till the end of grydown, just ever more merging with the wood and earth.

The second aspect of captivation is the Abstraction - all those tones are not clear-cut defined but rather smoothly 'veiled' - softly hinting rather than outlining - like if made with wet aquarel; in fact, except the ample ancient wood' notes, all the other labels are true only to a certain degree - the flowers are not specific, the vanilla is rather an adjective about the mineralic powdered rocks- than a noun standing on its own, and all the secondary notes are flitting around like butterflies making it difficult to capture the exact pattern on their aromatic 'wings' - instead of more common direct and obvious straight-forwardness. It is the high degree of Abstraction in the character and Impressionistic in style - what gives this Oud an evocative power of imaginative aromatic storytelling, leading to -

the third aspect of 'Malacca Seiki' - is evolution into the Depth (both virtual and metaphoric): as the scent progresses and both the jungle-saturated humidity and the airiness grow while the sweeteness and the savory choir come closer and closer,
- yet most importantly, the whole double choir descends an octave and goes underground - as turning into a cellar - but a palatial one - spacious and finely decorated, elfine-like earthy space: the antique-wooden panels are intricately carved with mythical creatures and whiplashing vegetation, the whimsical flowers and the leaves are weaved into tapestries on the walls depicting adventures of the knights and faeries in stylized forests and gardens, and the clever invisible ventilation brings wafts of fresh humid air into that underground castle space...

The scent resolves itself into a harmonious, effusive, airy-woody enchantment of the drydown - bestowing peace of mind like a happy ending of a fully resolved dramatic fairytale, soothing the heart and bringing the smile of childlike satisfaction from a good story, that makes you (me) to believe in all the good in the world and the magic still hiding in the old jungles, and the fairies are still living under the roots of centennial trees in their hidden abodes perceiveable to the humans only by the beautiful scent...
Effortlessly enchanting.
How do you get to know about their unreleased oils?
 
How do you get to know about their unreleased oils?
Not speaking to this specific case but for the most part people who have a history purchasing or sampling from one of the vendors would have opportunities to hear about upcoming things before they get posted publicly. These are often very small one person operations so speaking directly with the owner about things that are in the works is not unheard of.
 
How do you get to know about their unreleased oils?
Well, I made a nice sizeable purchase from The Oud Lab - have bought quite a few full bottles of various oils of high grades - those that are currently on the site, and have received with the parcel some additional little samples -free gifts of generosity from Abu. Since the names of some of these could not be found in the site, I've asked him about them - 'Malacca Seiki' included, what are they and he kindly told me, that they are to be released in some near future, and the basic info about the oils. However small these samples, they contain enough oil for a few swipes 🙂
It is nice to have an impression about a material in advance, to make not a blind but an informed decision, whether I want it or not, and plan the budget as well...
 
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Well, I made a nice sizeable purchase from The Oud Lab - have bought quite a few full bottles of various oils of high grades - those that are currently on the site, and have received with the parcel some additional little samples -free gifts of generosity from Abu. Since the names of some of these could not be found in the site, I've asked him about them - 'Malacca Seiki' included, what are they and he kindly told me, that they are to be released in some near future, and the basic info about the oils. However small these samples, they contain enough oil for a few swipes 🙂
It is nice to have an impression about a material in advance, to make not a blind but an informed decision, whether I want ii or not, and plan the budget as well...
this is a nice little window into one of the things that makes collecting oud so gratifying - a single purchase often comes along with samples that on one level are quite small but on another are large enough to provide significant and even profound educational value even if they're not necessarily an inspiration for a purchase. it seems like many oud vendors are comfortable with this and eager to share beyond mere cynical trolling for sales - that sense of being a guide in addition to being a merchant. It makes the whole thing quite compelling and adds to the sense of luxury that goes along with even thinking about purchasing these material materials in the first place.

when I reflect, honestly something like 75% of my education as far as agarwood and sandalwood goes has come from samples people either swapped for things of my own
making or that accompanied purchases. keeping track of these things is overwhelming, to the point where I've had to put most of it aside given all of the other competing interests during the warm summer months.
 
Wore Saif al hind today as a throwback.

Really addictive mild barn opening and peppery ness. I notice a very sweet fennel like quality with it throughout. It reminds me of really nice Indian soaps in the middle before it reaches the dry down thats leathery (and a little rubber like to me).
Saif al hind doesnt seem to be as projecting or loud as i was hoping. Is that other’s experience as well?
 
Repeating dive into the still unreleased peninsular wild Malaysian from TOL - The Oud Lab, called 'Malacca Seiki';
'Seiki' 世紀 meaning 'a century' in Japanese - in allusion to the approximate age of the source tree; and so it is a single near-centennial tree Oud, incense-grade, about 7 years of age since the distillation, by no-soak modern method:
The dynamic beauty of the oil lies in particular combined effect of three factors I discern -
1- the richness of the balanced yet opposing voices;
2- the notable degree of Abstraction (as opposed to the literal trait) of the notes projection;
3- and the notes' evolution into the Depth.

First, The Voices - a pleasant, virtuosic really, duet of two intertwined voices - or rather two choires (as their voices are quite richly textured) at the opposite sides of the stage - like in ancient greek drama - singing the same melody in different registers, what captivates the nose from the first breathe-in -
The sweet choire - bright, flying high above, vanillic-chocolade-caramelic-apple-floral-fine suede,
and the savory choire - the powerful yet velvety bass hum of Ancient Wood in the lead - resonated by powdered rocky-mineralic - humid earth & moss (petrichor) - and forest foliage of various shades (from budding-fresh to wilting); together they create both the volume and the general expansive radiance - which is a functional excellence regardless of the beauty in the character. Shall I add, that with time, the savory choire becomes slightly more dominant and with a certain salinity, very lightly spiced with terpenic sap, while the sweet one morphes into more fresh floral, airy and less caramel-related. Worth noting that while becoming ever more airy, the sweet part does not disappear, remaining delicately sustained till the end of drydown, just ever more merging with the wood and earth.

The second aspect of captivation is the Abstraction - all those tones are not clear-cut defined but rather smoothly 'veiled' - softly hinting rather than outlining - like if made with wet aquarel; in fact, except the ample ancient wood' notes, all the other labels are true only to a certain degree - the flowers are not specific, the vanilla is rather an adjective about the mineralic powdered rocks- than a noun standing on its own, and all the secondary notes are flitting around like butterflies making it difficult to capture the exact pattern on their aromatic 'wings' - instead of more common direct and obvious straight-forwardness. It is the high degree of Abstraction in the character and Impressionistic in style - what gives this Oud an evocative power of imaginative aromatic storytelling, leading to -

the third aspect of 'Malacca Seiki' - is evolution into the Depth (both virtual and metaphoric): as the scent progresses and both the jungle-saturated humidity and the airiness grow while the sweeteness and the savory choir come closer and closer,
- yet most importantly, the whole double choir descends an octave and goes underground - as turning into a cellar - but a palatial one - spacious and finely decorated, elfine-like earthy space: the antique-wooden panels are intricately carved with mythical creatures and whiplashing vegetation, the whimsical flowers and the leaves are woven into tapestries on the walls depicting adventures of the knights and faeries in stylized forests and gardens, and the clever invisible ventilation brings wafts of fresh humid air into that underground castle space...

The scent resolves itself into a harmonious, effusive, airy-woody enchantment of the drydown - bestowing peace of mind like a happy ending of a fully resolved dramatic fairytale, soothing the heart and bringing the smile of childlike satisfaction from a good story, that makes you (me) to believe in all the good in the world and the magic still hiding in the old jungles, and the fairies are still living under the roots of centennial trees in their hidden abodes perceiveable to humans only by the beautiful scent...
Effortlessly enchanting.
Apart from thanking you for the lovely detailed review ( as always. Appreciating your time and effort into writing this), I can't stop emphasizing how much I respect, adore and aspire (to) that state of mind and being that produces such reviews. Regardless if it's an aromatic of TOL or any other vendor or whatever aromatic it is, it's that serene details-oriented awareness and focus, laced with artistic and literature rich expression that you have.

It's a testament on how any experience is largely dependent on the experiencER. Reading whatever you post transports one as if they're on some sort of a psychedelic trip in the aromatics realm 🔥

Happy and honored.
🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🌹🌹🌹
 
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